On 01/19/2011 08:40 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 19, 2:17 am,
wrote:
On Jan 18, 11:01 am, Steve
wrote:

Well Robert, this is where you come in. :-) I sprayed one single wet coat of
the satin "Kwick Kleen" conversion lacquer that you steered me towards.

Wow! How cool is that? You never know, right?

Actually, the can says "fast drying polyurethane", but it thins with lacquer
thinner, and it certainly looks, smells, and feels like a lacquer to me.
I LOVE the stuff! It goes on like a dream, dries to the touch in about 5
minutes, and looks gorgeous. Thanks a million for the recommendation.

I am hugely pleased you liked it (and that it worked for you!) as it
is certainly my favorite finish. When I need a go-to, bullet proof
finish, that's my first choice.
Never let me down yet, and I have put about 40 gallons on all manner
of projects inside and out.

Honestly, I don't know what it is.

I went to my Dad's house a couple of months ago and looked at the
front door he had me replace along with hardware, etc. He was an
older fella then, and wanted a good finish on it, but nothing too
exotic. That was about 8 years ago. It looks brand new!

I might have to rustle around the HD and find a pic to post of that
one as it was an unusual grain pattern that I set on fire. You would
probably get a charge out of it.

I just go through looking over your finished project and your most
excellent plane. Great stuff.

Please do post some pictures of that door. I have a nice mahogany
door that I recently installed that's waiting for the warmer weather
for the final finish (just shellac on it for now). That Kwick Kleen
stuff sounds perfect.

Since you are the one directly responsible for the beautiful finish on
Steve's drum (a stretch, but work with me here!), I'm thinking there
should be a free drum in it for you. Or at least a tambourine.

I've got an extra cowbell. :-)

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 1/19/11 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:

Googling "Kwik Kleen" I find that there isn't an "it". They have a
"fast drying polyurethane" and a "Kwick Kat" precatalyised lacquer and
about 5 pages of other stuff just under "Finishes and Sealers".


Me, too. Which can and where can I buy it?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 01/19/2011 11:44 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/19/11 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:

Googling "Kwik Kleen" I find that there isn't an "it". They have a
"fast drying polyurethane" and a "Kwick Kat" precatalyised lacquer and
about 5 pages of other stuff just under "Finishes and Sealers".


Me, too. Which can and where can I buy it?

This is the exact stuff I used (per Robert's recommendation):

http://kwickkleen.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=1402

I ordered it straight from Kwick Kleen, and received excellent service.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 19, 12:02 pm, Steve Turner wrote:

I ordered it straight from Kwick Kleen, and received excellent service.

As a sidebar to the product, make sure you stir well if you buy their
satin/semigloss product. Dave will get nasty with you about using a
POWER stirrer (as on a drill) if you call with a semi gloss problem.

(Say Robert... how do you know that??)

Anyway, for quality's sake, he small batches this stuff in his
warehouse. When he makes the semigloss/satin products, he puts the
flatner on the bottom of the can and adds the clear finish in top.

When I had some problem with finish consistency, Dave knew it was my
fault. (It was kind of like talking to myself, really.... ;^) ).

He quickly go to the problem of my incorrect mixing of his product
before use. After opening the can I looked through the clear finish
on the top, and saw the cloudy flatners on the bottom. I assumed
that the cloudiness I was seeing was the the flattening material mixed
in the solution, not just sitting on the bottom of the can.

For the record, I only power stir the day before I use a product, and
stick stir the day of use. Introducing air into the finish is a no-no
for a host of reasons. Bubbles are only the start. Power stirring is
for latex paint and grout.

Anyway, my conversation with Dave was left with his questions: "Well,
if you are a professional finisher, how is it you didn't properly stir
the finish before use? I clearly state that as with all finishes you
should power stir on low speed for 5 minutes before mixing or using."

And the second, "how long did you say you had been doing this?"
**ouch**

Dave (owner/chief chemist) is a bit prickly, but knows his stuff
frontwards, backwards and sideways and with both eyes closed. If
anyone here gets a large stripping/refinishing project, they sell a
stripper that is a semi gel product that will eat though epoxy paints,
etch metal, and is really, really nasty. Which is good.

I bought a five of it to use on a 4' x 7' wood door to a large
commercial facility that had literally about 8 or more coats of
urethane over the original custom finish. And the original finish was
actually a floor finishing product that was applied here locally by a
door company. It is good stuff.

But Dave's stripper took 90% of it off in the very first pass, and the
rest of it in a quick reapplication.

I don't do near the business with him I used to, but I doubt I will
ever lose his number.

Robert

wrote:

I ordered it straight from Kwick Kleen, and received excellent
service.

As a sidebar to the product, make sure you stir well if you buy
their
satin/semigloss product. Dave will get nasty with you about using a
POWER stirrer (as on a drill) if you call with a semi gloss problem.
snip

SFWIW, when it comes to drill motor mounted power mixers, you have
JIFFY MIXER and you have JIFFY MIXER.

Gallon size is about $20.

They are stainless steel which means you can clean them with a propane
torch.

Lew

Yeah, I can see that is an issue. Leaving 'contraction space' so the
veneer meeting edges would just touch as the vaccum was applied would
also be difficult. What about laying up the veneers inside the sewer
pipe and using a pneumatic bladder to press the veneer against the
pipe?

Still the same problem. You are asking the veneer to slip laterally as the
glue squeezes out. Ever try to coil up a roll of aluminum flashing, to make
the roll smaller? You have to coil the inside before you can get the
outside to get smaller. You can not pull on the outside layer to get it
tighter. It just does not work.
--
Jim in NC