Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I
have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L --- rookie woodworker

Todd wrote:Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4
MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I
have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L --- rookie woodworker

With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after careful
adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might occur.
Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a low VOC
water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a caul?

Todd L

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Todd wrote:Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto
3/4
MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L --- rookie woodworker

With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after
careful
adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might
occur.
Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a
low VOC
water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

Oh, I forgot, what's the 'trick' to avoid air pockets?

Todd L

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Todd wrote:Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto
3/4
MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L --- rookie woodworker

With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after
careful
adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might
occur.
Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a
low VOC
water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

"Todd L" wrote in message
...
Oh, I forgot, what's the 'trick' to avoid air pockets?

Todd L


One answer to that question [there is more than one] is wax paper -- put it
between the verneer and the underlayment and only withdraw it slowly a
section at a time as you roll it out from the center.

Norm

Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" wrote in message
...
Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L --- rookie woodworker

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a caul?

Todd L

A caul is a piece of scrap, slightly bowed/crooked to allow the center to press
first upon the workpiece, then as you tighten the clamps, the outer edges press
down. Too much pressure will bow it the other way, and then you'll get voids.
Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]

I read somewhere you should veneer the back also, but it ain't gonna happen,
at least not with this veneer. Check out this wild veneer, ebay item
3808987329. It looks even better in person.

Todd L

"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]

It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]

Note; The unseen veneer need not be of the same quality or price of your
face veneer.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" wrote in message
...
I read somewhere you should veneer the back also, but it ain't gonna
happen,
at least not with this veneer. Check out this wild veneer, ebay item
3808987329. It looks even better in person.

Todd L

I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except for
the one.

TIA,

Todd L

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]

Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin enough,
you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd
occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.

You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how it
goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again
easily.

Cheers,

Frank


"Todd L" wrote in message
...
I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
for
the one.

TIA,

Todd L

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]








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Thanks Frank, good advice that I'll try. Hate to glue it in and not have it
turn out.

Todd L

"Frank McVey" wrote in message
...
Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin
enough,
you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd
occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.

You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how
it
goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again
easily.

Cheers,

Frank


"Todd L" wrote in message
...
I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet
door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping.
It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one
end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the
back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
for
the one.

TIA,

Todd L

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is
still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you
wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]








---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.665 / Virus Database: 428 - Release Date: 21/04/2004

Maybe yes, maybe no. Depends on wood thickness, size, etc.

Of course, if you just set the frame down on something flat and leave it
there you've got little better then a fifty fifty chance it could straighten
itself out.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" wrote in message
...
I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
for
the one.

TIA,

Todd L

"Mike G" wrote in message
...
It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" wrote in message
...

"Mike G" wrote in message
...


Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.


Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
MDF
and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]