zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On 10 Aug 2010 03:40:18 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in
:

*snip*

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut
what I set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate
cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly
always what I had the scale set on.
I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

I've never trusted the fence indicator. I put a Wixey gauge on mine and it
seems to be pretty good. Once a session I zero it against the blade and all
seems to be well.

I retro fitted a new Delta fence to my 1954 Delta saw. The tape that is
on it is out of wack and would need replaced to be of any use. I've
been thinking of buying a new adhesive tape for around 10 bucks, but
figure I've been measuring the fence with a tape forever, so haven't
bothered. I just looked up the Wixey gauge and it looks great...
but...$100 is way too much for me... Rockler has sticky tape on sale
for under $3.00, Kreg sells tape for $10.

BTW, my fence only locks on the front bar, the back bar only stops it
from lifting up. I use the back bar to hold my out feed table. Works
great, really really great compared to the original fence that did lock
front and back.
--
Jack
Got Change: More Taxes! More Spending! More Debt! More Fraud! More
Government! Less Freedom!
http://www2.nationalreview.com/video..._051410_B.html

Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.


LOL @ sync


wrote in message
...
The meter is free. Unless there is something intentionally installed in the
meter, all will run backwards if the energy goes the other way. The
hardware
needed to sync to the line, OTOH,...



On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 22:29:33 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:
The cost of the dual register meter would break even in how many decades?

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Also the disconnect is in the "OFF" if you are even going to think
about removing the throat plate to change blades, install dado,
remove/replace splitter, etc.

Did not have a disconnect on my personal saw; however, did have a plug
and receptacle the served the same function.

NEVER trust just a switch, sooner or later it will bite you.

All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend
just yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull
the cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on
by itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said that
would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to lose an
arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once somewhere,
but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've not witnessed
it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no, so thats well
over one million hours of testing... so I live on the edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

--
Jack
Got Change: Global Warming ====== Global Fraud!
http://jbstein.com

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.
1

If it is moving around that easy, there is something wrong. Fix it, and you
will be rewarded with accurate cuts, in half the time.

Really, if there is a problem with the fence, it can be fixed, even if you
have to re-engineer the way it is attached.
--
Jim in NC

wrote

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to
the
back, there is room for error.

Buloney.

It will go to the same place, every time. That is what is necessary.
Repeatability, and the stremgth to resist a moderated amount of side
pressure.

If you are afraid it moves while you cut, your table alignment or technique
needs adjustment.

You should not have to put enough pressure on the fence while making a cut
to move the fence.

Re-read that last sentance again, and believe it. It is true.
--
Jim in NC

wrote

I don't know any with a gear drive. Small table-top units are generally
direct drive. Full sized table saws are almost all belt driven. Not all
have
teeth, though. I wouldn't imagine gears would be a good thing on a table
saw.

I thought the discussion was about contractor saws?
--
Jim in NC

On Aug 10, 8:25*am, Jack Stein wrote:
wrote:
On 10 Aug 2010 03:40:18 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in
:

*snip*

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. *I set up my machine and scale to cut
what I set it on, and go to town. *If I really need a super accurate
cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. *It is nearly
always what I had the scale set on.
I don't trust my fence indicator. *I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. *It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

I've never trusted the fence indicator. *I put a Wixey gauge on mine and it
seems to be pretty good. *Once a session I zero it against the blade and all
seems to be well.

I retro fitted a new Delta fence to my 1954 Delta saw. *The tape that is
on it is out of wack and would need replaced to be of any use. *I've
been thinking of buying a new adhesive tape for around 10 bucks, but
figure I've been measuring the fence with a tape forever, so haven't
bothered. *I just looked up the Wixey gauge and it looks great...
but...$100 is way too much for me... *Rockler has sticky tape on sale
for under $3.00, Kreg sells tape for $10.

I don't trust the front rail and indicator. The tolerance stack is
just too deep. Before I bought the Wixey I measured from a tooth
(still do quite often). Money spent on these things is obviously a
personal matter.

BTW, my fence only locks on the front bar, the back bar only stops it
from lifting up. *I use the back bar to hold my out feed table. *Works
great, really really great compared to the original fence that did lock
front and back.

I have no rear bar (one of the weaknesses of the Biesemeyer fence,
IMO). OTOH, I can see why they don't lock front and back. The second
latch adds another source of error.

On Aug 10, 9:27*am, "Morgans" wrote:
wrote



I don't know any with a gear drive. *Small table-top units are generally
direct drive. *Full sized table saws are almost all belt driven. *Not all
have
teeth, though. *I wouldn't imagine gears would be a good thing on a table
saw.

I thought the discussion was about contractor saws?

....and your point is?

On Aug 10, 8:35*am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

Which drugs are you on today?

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,
wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue
to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!


If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias.
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the
end, it comes down to personal preference.

Max

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 11:30:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

Can't agree, that technology had been around for many years. I have
lamps in my house that turn off when touched, building elevator buttons
that select by touch, and my I-phone needs the touch of skin, not a
stylus or finger nail to work.

But none of those are spinning rapidly :-). And aren't some of them
pressure-sensitive rather than touch-sensitive?

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Aug 10, 10:07*am, "Max" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,
wrote:

*wrote

Aluminum. *Wingnuts. Sliding. *All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. *The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. *Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue
to the
back, there is room for error. *Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. *They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. *Geez, what a maroon!

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. *It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias.
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the
end, it comes down to personal preference.

Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the
question. Speaking of bunched panties!

On 8/10/2010 10:09 AM, Morgans wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.
1

If it is moving around that easy, there is something wrong. Fix it, and you
will be rewarded with accurate cuts, in half the time.

Really, if there is a problem with the fence, it can be fixed, even if you
have to re-engineer the way it is attached.

If it's that untrustworthy something's wrong. The factory fence on my
500 buck Ridgid is accurate and repeatable to the limit of my ability to
read the markings. Took me a while to learn to trust it though.

If the saw gets moved around on the back of a truck, the way contractor
saws are expected to be used, then the fence should be adjusted every
time the saw is set up at a new job site, which should take under a
minute. Things carried on a truck do get knocked.

wrote in message
...
On Aug 10, 10:07 am, "Max" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,
wrote:

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with
nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue
to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my
buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias.
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the
end, it comes down to personal preference.

Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the
question. Speaking of bunched panties!

If I weren't of the opinion that you seemed biased that one *was* superior
to the other one I wouldn't have made my comment.

Max

[:-)

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Also the disconnect is in the "OFF" if you are even going to think about
removing the throat plate to change blades, install dado, remove/replace
splitter, etc.

Did not have a disconnect on my personal saw; however, did have a plug
and receptacle the served the same function.

NEVER trust just a switch, sooner or later it will bite you.

All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend just
yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull the
cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on by
itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said that
would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to lose an
arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once somewhere, but
in well over half a million hours of experience, I've not witnessed it, I
asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no, so thats well over one
million hours of testing... so I live on the edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

Jack.

Keeps life interesting.

Max

On Aug 10, 2:36*pm, "Max" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 10, 10:07 am, "Max" wrote:



wrote in message

.. .

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,
wrote:

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with
nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting..

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue
to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my
buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias..
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the
end, it comes down to personal preference.
Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the
question. *Speaking of bunched panties!

If I weren't of the opinion that you seemed biased that one *was* superior
to the other one I wouldn't have made my comment.

Look. When I bought my Unisaur I researched both systems, including
querying this group. Not having used a Unifence or ever having had
access to same, my OPINIONS are based on this research. So, yes,
having done homework and having _made_ the choice, I was obviously
convinced that the Biesemeyer was the better fence. If others have
different OPINIONS, I'm certainly interested in discussing the fine
points (and would love to try the Unifence) but I highly doubt I'll
ever change fences. I think even I can find a better use for the
money. ;-)

Now, is it time to unwedge? Did I spell "Biesemeyer" right?

On Aug 10, 4:05*pm, " wrote:
On Aug 10, 2:36*pm, "Max" wrote:





wrote in message

...
On Aug 10, 10:07 am, "Max" wrote:

wrote in message

.. .

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,
wrote:

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with
nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue
to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my
buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias.
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in the
end, it comes down to personal preference.
Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the
question. *Speaking of bunched panties!

If I weren't of the opinion that you seemed biased that one *was* superior
to the other one I wouldn't have made my comment.

Look. *When I bought my Unisaur I researched both systems, including
querying this group. *Not having used a Unifence or ever having had
access to same, my OPINIONS are based on this research. *So, yes,
having done homework and having _made_ the choice, I was obviously
convinced that the Biesemeyer was the better fence. *If others have
different OPINIONS, I'm certainly interested in discussing the fine
points (and would love to try the Unifence) but I highly doubt I'll
ever change fences. *I think even I can find a better use for the
money. *;-)

Now, is it time to unwedge? *Did I spell "Biesemeyer" right?

I have used the Uni and The Bies for decades, both at the same shop. I
have screwed around with many fences at other shops, always asking why
those guys liked what they liked. So my personal preference? Both the
Uni and the Bies are toys. Good toys, but toys. The SCM and Altendorf
guys have it down: Great big tube or channel and a humongous casting
with a T configuration, no clamping at the back, ever.

wrote in message
...
On Aug 10, 2:36 pm, "Max" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 10, 10:07 am, "Max" wrote:



wrote in message

.. .

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400,

wrote:

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment"
to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy
casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with
nothing
to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't
continue
to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with
the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my
buddy
both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

If you're convinced that a Biesemeyer fence is superior to a Unifence
then
you should stick with a Biesemeyer. It doesn't appear that any amount of
anecdotal evidence is going to persuade you against confirmational bias.
In all likelihood the performance of either fence is so close that, in
the
end, it comes down to personal preference.
Were I convinced that one were superior I wouldn't have asked the
question. Speaking of bunched panties!

If I weren't of the opinion that you seemed biased that one *was* superior
to the other one I wouldn't have made my comment.

Look. When I bought my Unisaur I researched both systems, including
querying this group. Not having used a Unifence or ever having had
access to same, my OPINIONS are based on this research. So, yes,
having done homework and having _made_ the choice, I was obviously
convinced that the Biesemeyer was the better fence. If others have
different OPINIONS, I'm certainly interested in discussing the fine
points (and would love to try the Unifence) but I highly doubt I'll
ever change fences. I think even I can find a better use for the
money. ;-)

Now, is it time to unwedge? Did I spell "Biesemeyer" right?



It's a good feeling when one's suspicions are confirmed. snerk
All kidding aside, I think each fence has it's adherents and there's not
enough difference to quibble about.

Max

Jack Stein wrote in
:


All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend
just yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull
the cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on
by itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said
that would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to
lose an arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once
somewhere, but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've
not witnessed it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no,
so thats well over one million hours of testing... so I live on the
edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...


I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off
position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is
difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

Now some of these modern computers... Those stupid things turn on when
power is connected.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Some have a safety cover over the toggle switch to help prevent things
accidentally clicking it on.


"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend
just yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull
the cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on
by itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said that
would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to lose an
arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once somewhere,
but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've not witnessed
it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no, so thats well
over one million hours of testing... so I live on the edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

--
Jack
Got Change: Global Warming ====== Global Fraud!
http://jbstein.com

How many different nicknames do you go by in these groups?

wrote in message
...
Which drugs are you on today?

On Aug 10, 8:35 am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

I have seen iron filings bridge the contacts and energize a circuit in a
larger wall switch.


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off
position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is
difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

Now some of these modern computers... Those stupid things turn on when
power is connected.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:43:12 -0500, "Leon" wrote:
Take a look at one to understand what I am about to explain. ;~)

No gots.

The
Unifence fence slides left, right, forward, and backward. Because you can
slide it backwards the end near the back of the saw table can be situated
in
front of the blade.

Oh, that makes perfect sense. sheesh

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Un...rsusbessy.html

On 08/10/2010 04:27 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:43:12 -0500, wrote:
Take a look at one to understand what I am about to explain. ;~)

No gots.

The
Unifence fence slides left, right, forward, and backward. Because you can
slide it backwards the end near the back of the saw table can be situated
in
front of the blade.

Oh, that makes perfect sense.sheesh

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Un...rsusbessy.html

Your copy and paster seems to be bouncing. I believe you meant:

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Un...rsusbessy.html

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

wrote in message
...
Snip


I have no rear bar (one of the weaknesses of the Biesemeyer fence,
IMO). OTOH, I can see why they don't lock front and back. The second
latch adds another source of error.


What is wrong with your Beisemeyer fence? Seriousely, there must be
something wrong if you can not rely on it to give you repeatable set ups
unless it is mounted on a marginal saw.

I have been using a Jet cabinet saw with a Biese clone the Jet exacta fence
for about 11 years now and for the first time last week I had to actually
reset the curser, it was out 1/64".

Again seriousely you absolutely should be able to depend on a Biesemeysr
fence rule setting and or any clone.

Now if you think I may simply be happy with cloce, think again. Swingman
and I gang up on building high end kitchens. I but the sheets of plywood
for all the cabinet panels, he cuts and assembles the face frames complete
with dado's. My panels must fit in his dado in all of the face frames. We
have never had a problem. He uses a Unifence and has no issues with truste
either. Basically both of our saws must be calibrated identically.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to
me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to
the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is
nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're
easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

The aluminum fence attaches at two locations along the base unit.
Additionally the fences are an "L" shape so that you can remove it and
reinstall it on the base unit for cutting thinner stock more easily.
IIRC the Unifence had been around about as long if not longer as the
Beisemeyer, 20+ years. There have been no accuracy issues with the design.
I first considered getting a unifence 17 years ago.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Aug 2010 19:43:12 -0500, "Leon" wrote:
Take a look at one to understand what I am about to explain. ;~)

No gots.

The
Unifence fence slides left, right, forward, and backward. Because you
can
slide it backwards the end near the back of the saw table can be situated
in
front of the blade.

Oh, that makes perfect sense. sheesh



http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Un...rsusbessy.html

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote

I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off
position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is
difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

I am on the fence on this subject. I have never seen one turn on by itself.
I have seen some tools turn on because the switch is easy to bump. I have
seen things turned on because someone else turned them on by mistake.

I guess I almost always unplug while making any adjustment or tool change
where body parts will be very close or in contact with the sharp rotating
things.

The exception is that for a quick change while I am alone on the table saw,
which has a magnetic starter. I can't see how that could ever turn on by
itself.
--
Jim in NC

"Max" wrote in message
...


It's a good feeling when one's suspicions are confirmed. snerk
All kidding aside, I think each fence has it's adherents and there's not
enough difference to quibble about.

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:42:33 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


wrote in message
...
Snip


I have no rear bar (one of the weaknesses of the Biesemeyer fence,
IMO). OTOH, I can see why they don't lock front and back. The second
latch adds another source of error.


What is wrong with your Beisemeyer fence? Seriousely, there must be
something wrong if you can not rely on it to give you repeatable set ups
unless it is mounted on a marginal saw.

Nothing is wrong with it. I'd rather have something to hold down the back of
the fence, is all. No, I don't trust the measure on the front. Haven't on
any saw. Been burned. I guess it could be the blade thickness, too. I've
never bothered to track it down. It's easier to measure off the tooth and the
Wixey makes that unnecessary.

I have been using a Jet cabinet saw with a Biese clone the Jet exacta fence
for about 11 years now and for the first time last week I had to actually
reset the curser, it was out 1/64".

Again seriousely you absolutely should be able to depend on a Biesemeysr
fence rule setting and or any clone.

Now if you think I may simply be happy with cloce, think again. Swingman
and I gang up on building high end kitchens. I but the sheets of plywood
for all the cabinet panels, he cuts and assembles the face frames complete
with dado's. My panels must fit in his dado in all of the face frames. We
have never had a problem. He uses a Unifence and has no issues with truste
either. Basically both of our saws must be calibrated identically.

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:55:54 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

How many different nicknames do you go by in these groups?

None. I always use my real name. I do have two accounts, one Google (used
when no NNTP access is possible), one not.

wrote in message
...
Which drugs are you on today?

On Aug 10, 8:35 am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

On 8/10/2010 4:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in
:


All I do is turn off the saw. I was making up a railing for a friend
just yesterday and putting on the dado blade. He said don't you pull
the cord... I don't. Never saw a light, appliance or power tool go on
by itself. He said what if someone turns in on by accident? I said
that would have to be me, and if I'm that freaking dumb, I deserve to
lose an arm. I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once
somewhere, but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've
not witnessed it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no,
so thats well over one million hours of testing... so I live on the
edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...


I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off
position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is
difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

Now some of these modern computers... Those stupid things turn on when
power is connected.

That's actually a BIOS setting. On the other hand, all PCs since the
ATX standard was implemented have been soft-off--they're never
completely powered down unless they are unplugged or the disconnect
switch on the back (if they have one) is turned off.

Puckdropper

"CW" wrote

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.

Wow, how many heads did that (Vega) comment just wizz over? :-))

It is only the people that had one or knew someone that had one that really,
really understand.

But, if you were good on oil changes and never ever let it overheat, it
wasn't as bad as everyone thinks. Problem is, how many people keep up with
both of the two conditions I stated? Not many, huh?

How about a Luv pickup? Believe it or not, there is one that lives around
here as an every day driver. Not too bad, for that fellow, I guess!
--
Jim in NC

On 8/10/2010 8:54 PM, Morgans wrote:
wrote

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.

Wow, how many heads did that (Vega) comment just wizz over? :-))

It is only the people that had one or knew someone that had one that really,
really understand.

It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

But, if you were good on oil changes and never ever let it overheat, it
wasn't as bad as everyone thinks. Problem is, how many people keep up with
both of the two conditions I stated? Not many, huh?

That's some table saw fence that needs oil changes and is in danger of
overheating.

How about a Luv pickup? Believe it or not, there is one that lives around
here as an every day driver. Not too bad, for that fellow, I guess!

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote

I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on. Usually what happened is the switch is either not in a full off
position or defective. The switch not being in a full off position is
difficult on most of the power tools I've used.

I am on the fence on this subject. I have never seen one turn on by
itself. I have seen some tools turn on because the switch is easy to bump.
I have seen things turned on because someone else turned them on by
mistake.

I guess I almost always unplug while making any adjustment or tool change
where body parts will be very close or in contact with the sharp rotating
things.

The exception is that for a quick change while I am alone on the table
saw,

The very time when you need somebody around in case you bleed out.

which has a magnetic starter. I can't see how that could ever turn on by
itself.

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down due to
a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes back on,
but power tools are a whole other story.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Some have a safety cover over the toggle switch to help prevent things
accidentally clicking it on.


At the same time, a useful feature is a paddle style knee switch to shut of
a saw if your hands are occupied.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 8/10/2010 8:54 PM, Morgans wrote:
wrote

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.

Wow, how many heads did that (Vega) comment just wizz over? :-))

It is only the people that had one or knew someone that had one that
really,
really understand.

It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

But, if you were good on oil changes and never ever let it overheat, it
wasn't as bad as everyone thinks. Problem is, how many people keep up
with
both of the two conditions I stated? Not many, huh?

That's some table saw fence that needs oil changes and is in danger of
overheating.

Chevrolet Vega.

"J. Clarke" wrote

It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

Wow, here I stand all red-faced and stuff! I have to admit that I go for
the main stream stuff, and not the fine woodworker high line stuff. It is
an unfortunate condition of buying for a high school in a poor rural area of
NC with _very_ limited funds to spend on equipment and supplies. I had not
heard of that company and therefore though that you were making a funny!

That's some table saw fence that needs oil changes and is in danger of
overheating.

Now, you're making a funny, right? I guess I need to ask and find out for
sure, from now on! ;-)
--
Jim in NC

My cheap router table, adapted from a circular saw inversion table, has a
switch shut-off bar that runs the full length of the table, one side, and
pushes on the rocker switch. It seems to be a good idea, and is better than
a small buried, under the table, switch but I am not sure how readily
accesible it would be in event of a mishap.

It may be easier to hit after dropping to the floor after scanning for
flying parts, though....LOL



"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
At the same time, a useful feature is a paddle style knee switch to shut of
a saw if your hands are occupied.


"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Some have a safety cover over the toggle switch to help prevent things
accidentally clicking it on.

Maybe stick to valid topics?


wrote in message
...
None. I always use my real name. I do have two accounts, one Google (used
when no NNTP access is possible), one not


On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:55:54 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

How many different nicknames do you go by in these groups?

..


wrote in message
...
Which drugs are you on today?

On Aug 10, 8:35 am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.