I have dealt with many three phase and single phase dynamic braking
circuits, mostly in the 1-5 hp range and the number of phases on the motor
makes no difference, for braking ability.

The three phase braking circuits are more costly due to more contacts needed
to switch the load to the brake circuits. A simple SPDT switch will do for a
single phase saw.

The units I dealt with in 2000 ampere tapchangers typically used DC
injection (some were friction and some regenerative) and were set to time
out and allow the mechanism to coast onto a "top dead centre" position ready
for the next cycle. This could be made to stop "on the spot" if adjusted
this way but gave drift back to the brake initiating cam problems, at times
so the coast in was necessary. This would not be desirable to stop a machine
for a human usage.


wrote in message
...
Nah, there's nothing special about a three-phase motor that allows dynamic
braking.


It is totally cost prohibitive for a single phase motor.

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes back
on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

If not, or for those unaware, it is a section of cord with a box with a
brain inline that allows a tool with a regular mechanical switch to operate
normally, until the power to the tool is interupted, either by the plug
getting bumped, the main power cutting out, or a tripped breaker or fault
protector. At that point, even if the power is out only for an instant, the
tool will not be given power back by the brain box, until a reset button on
the brain it pressed.

Not nearly as expensive as magnetic starters, easy to use, and give another
layer of safety. Plus, it satisfies the requirements that may apply to a
shop that is inspected by OSHA or insurance inspectors. Some products are
GFCI's that require pressing the reset button before it will come back on
after power is interupted, and some only mimic a magnetic starter. Seems as
though it was in the mid 30 dollar price range, when I looked at them a
couple years ago.
--
Jim in NC

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 13:39:22 -0600, "Max"
wrote:

"Jack Stein" wrote in message

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

Keeps life interesting.

It keeps you paying attention to what you're doing.

Dina is a guardless, gaping, disconnect-free gal, too. I guess I'll
be the first here to try out Grizz' G0715.

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 23:26:09 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

Maybe stick to valid topics?

Wow, Captian PKB speaks. BTW, Is this supposed to make sense in this thread?

wrote in message
.. .
None. I always use my real name. I do have two accounts, one Google (used
when no NNTP access is possible), one not


On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:55:54 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

How many different nicknames do you go by in these groups?

.


wrote in message
...
Which drugs are you on today?

On Aug 10, 8:35 am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

J. Clarke wrote:


If it's that untrustworthy something's wrong. The factory fence on my
500 buck Ridgid is accurate and repeatable to the limit of my ability
to read the markings. Took me a while to learn to trust it though.

As well with my Craftsman fence - which is the same fence used on the
Ridgid. It is dead nut - every time. Like John, I had to learn to trust
it, but now - I don't even think about it. Others may fear it's not
accurate, and I can understand that, since as I said - I had to learn to
trust it. But... after many repeated measurements, the thing has proven
itself.


If the saw gets moved around on the back of a truck, the way
contractor saws are expected to be used, then the fence should be
adjusted every time the saw is set up at a new job site, which should
take under a minute. Things carried on a truck do get knocked.

And if it just gets moved around in a garage or in a basement - no need to
worry.

--

-Mike-

I don't know. Why did you bring up drugs and attempt to roll the topic?



wrote in message
...
Wow, Captian PKB speaks. BTW, Is this supposed to make sense in this
thread?


On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 23:26:09 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:
Maybe stick to valid topics?


wrote in message
.. .
None. I always use my real name. I do have two accounts, one Google (used
when no NNTP access is possible), one not


On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:55:54 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

How many different nicknames do you go by in these groups?

.


wrote in message
...
Which drugs are you on today?

On Aug 10, 8:35 am, "Josepi" wrote:
Now that would depend on the area you are metered by.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:03:26 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

I don't know.

You don't know if you're trying to make sense? Well, I guess that says it
all. You are nothing but a troll.


Why did you bring up drugs and attempt to roll the topic?

Maybe because I'm truing to figure out if you're on drugs or just stupid. I've
come to the realization that the choices aren't exclusive.

Maybe you can find someone else who will talk to you now. You're sure
limiting your possibilities quickly.

"Mike Marlow" wrote

As well with my Craftsman fence - which is the same fence used on the
Ridgid. It is dead nut - every time. Like John, I had to learn to trust
it, but now - I don't even think about it. Others may fear it's not
accurate, and I can understand that, since as I said - I had to learn to
trust it. But... after many repeated measurements, the thing has proven
itself.
A very good point. If there are inaccuracies, for most people the problem
came with bad technique such as keeping the board up tight to the fence, or
bad saw setup, such as the blade not square to the table, and the fence not
square to the table, which all is another way to say the fence is not
parallel to the blade.

Of course, these are basic points to all but the most inexperienced
woodworker, but we all have to assume there are some of those lurking about,
or some that will not admit to themselves or others that that label applies
to them! g

No fingers being pointed here because when you point at someone, there are
always three fingers pointed back at yourself. (That is only true if you
still have all of your fingers intact!) g
--
Jim in NC

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote

It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

Wow, here I stand all red-faced and stuff! I have to admit that I go for
the main stream stuff, and not the fine woodworker high line stuff. It is

Would that be a red Facel Vega?

an unfortunate condition of buying for a high school in a poor rural area
of NC with _very_ limited funds to spend on equipment and supplies. I had
not heard of that company and therefore though that you were making a
funny!

That's some table saw fence that needs oil changes and is in danger of
overheating.

Now, you're making a funny, right? I guess I need to ask and find out for
sure, from now on! ;-)
--
Jim in NC







--
National Socialism showed what can happen when very ordinary people get
control of a state and the merely opportunistic are regarded as
intellectuals.

Anthony Burgess

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
My cheap router table, adapted from a circular saw inversion table, has a
switch shut-off bar that runs the full length of the table, one side, and
pushes on the rocker switch. It seems to be a good idea, and is better
than
a small buried, under the table, switch but I am not sure how readily
accesible it would be in event of a mishap.

It may be easier to hit after dropping to the floor after scanning for
flying parts, though....LOL


Some things you get to know when to walk away and know when to run just by
sound alone. I know the sound of a blank coming off a lathe chuck, or the
sound of a bowl about to shatter. Left hand hits the switch while diving out
of the line of fire!

On Aug 11, 5:49*am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:
"Morgans" wrote in message

...



"J. Clarke" wrote

It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. *http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

Wow, here I stand all red-faced and stuff! *I have to admit that I go for
the main stream stuff, and not the fine woodworker high line stuff. *It is

Would that be a red Facel Vega?

Ya right.

Lobby Dosser wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

On 8/10/2010 8:54 PM, Morgans wrote:

wrote

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.


Wow, how many heads did that (Vega) comment just wizz over? :-))

It is only the people that had one or knew someone that had one that
really,
really understand.


It obviously whizzed over _one_ head. http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

But, if you were good on oil changes and never ever let it overheat, it
wasn't as bad as everyone thinks. Problem is, how many people keep
up with
both of the two conditions I stated? Not many, huh?


That's some table saw fence that needs oil changes and is in danger of
overheating.


Chevrolet Vega.

Understood, but I think the OP is talking about the Vega tablesaw fence:

http://www.vegawoodworking.com/table...%20fences.html

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

If you would have used Doug's killfilter list you would have killfiltered me
before I posted at all. Obviously you don't follow orders well.

Now run along and play with the other OCD boys. Maybe they can tolerate your
nonsense.


wrote in message
...
You don't know if you're trying to make sense? Well, I guess that says it
all. You are nothing but a troll.

Maybe because I'm truing to figure out if you're on drugs or just stupid.
I've
come to the realization that the choices aren't exclusive.

Maybe you can find someone else who will talk to you now. You're sure
limiting your possibilities quickly.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:42:33 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


wrote in message
...
Snip


I have no rear bar (one of the weaknesses of the Biesemeyer fence,
IMO). OTOH, I can see why they don't lock front and back. The second
latch adds another source of error.


What is wrong with your Beisemeyer fence? Seriousely, there must be
something wrong if you can not rely on it to give you repeatable set ups
unless it is mounted on a marginal saw.

Nothing is wrong with it. I'd rather have something to hold down the back
of
the fence, is all. No, I don't trust the measure on the front. Haven't
on
any saw. Been burned. I guess it could be the blade thickness, too. I've
never bothered to track it down. It's easier to measure off the tooth and
the
Wixey makes that unnecessary.

I measured the distance from the fence to the blade for OK cuts when I had
a Craftsman TS and stock fence but stoped doing that when I added a Jet
Exacta fence. My new, 11 years ago, cabinet saw has the larger version of
that fence.
I use premium quality blades and have them checked for flat every time I
have them resharpened.

A problem that can occour with any method of measuring is that if a blade
becomes "non-flat" measuring fromt the fence tot a tooth on the blade will
yield inconsistant results. This will throw off the accuracy of the built
in system on the Biese fence also. While the fence may be accurate at a
given point a slightly warped blade that throw all of that out the window.
Measuring from the blade to the fence will not improve that situation.

Think kerf blades seem to exagerate the problem as they are less likely to
stay flat.

I on occasion I will make a rip cut, measure the result, and verify the
cursor setting on the fence.








I have been using a Jet cabinet saw with a Biese clone the Jet exacta
fence
for about 11 years now and for the first time last week I had to actually
reset the curser, it was out 1/64".

Again seriousely you absolutely should be able to depend on a Biesemeysr
fence rule setting and or any clone.

Now if you think I may simply be happy with cloce, think again. Swingman
and I gang up on building high end kitchens. I but the sheets of plywood
for all the cabinet panels, he cuts and assembles the face frames complete
with dado's. My panels must fit in his dado in all of the face frames.
We
have never had a problem. He uses a Unifence and has no issues with
truste
either. Basically both of our saws must be calibrated identically.

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"CW" wrote

I have used both and, for me, they both worked great. Do I have a
preference? Well, my Vega has never let me down.

Wow, how many heads did that (Vega) comment just wizz over? :-))

It is only the people that had one or knew someone that had one that
really, really understand.

But, if you were good on oil changes and never ever let it overheat, it
wasn't as bad as everyone thinks. Problem is, how many people keep up
with both of the two conditions I stated? Not many, huh?

I had a Vega, they were inherently flawed. I personally replaced the short
block in my garage and had the head reworked because a piston broke. Twenty
something thousand miles later I would drive into a gas station and asked
the attentant to fill the oil and check the gas. Having replaced the short
block myself, oil changes were as routine as filling the vehicle with gas,
not an issue of getting it done every 3K and properly. Over heating was a
problem with most all of them. They did not do well in city traffic. My
Vega did pretty good until I moved to a city with daily traffic conjestion.

It was a very long time before GM could build a reliable 4 banger.


How about a Luv pickup? Believe it or not, there is one that lives around
here as an every day driver. Not too bad, for that fellow, I guess!

Chevy LUV pick-ups were pretty good vehicles with decent engines. And might
I add, Isuzu built that truck for Cheverolet.

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...


Your copy and paster seems to be bouncing. I believe you meant:

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Un...rsusbessy.html


Yeah no kidding... I dont know what happened there.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 02:58:30 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Nevahoiduvit, neither.


Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

"Extension-cord-with-magnetic-starter-built-in", perhaps? ;O

"inline mag starter" maybe?

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

I found this brand, but I think they are all GFCI's, too. I have found that
using a GFCI on top of a GFCI protected like can sometimes lead to excessive
false resets.

I will keep looking for a little while, but there is one type. Just find a
dealer and you are all set.
--
Jim in NC

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

Oh, I think I would stick with the GFCE with a manual reset, for this price.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/UL-...UZ7?Pid=search

I sent a reply to the poster, instead of the group earlier by mistake. Here
is that message with a link.

found this brand, but I think they are all GFCI's, too. I have found that
using a GFCI on top of a GFCI protected like can sometimes lead to excessive
false resets.

I will keep looking for a little while, but there is one type. Just find a
dealer and you are all set.

I forgot the link the first time.
http://tools.passandseymour.com/psgf...leGFCI_bro.pdf
--
Jim in NC

Puckdropper wrote:
Jack Stein wrote in

I'm sure a switch has gone on by itself at least once
somewhere, but in well over half a million hours of experience, I've
not witnessed it, I asked him if he ever witnessed same, he said no,
so thats well over one million hours of testing... so I live on the
edge...

Geez, no guard, no splitter, no disconnect... Thrill a minute...

I've seen some things turn on by themselves, or more likely *not* turn
on.

Not turning on is never an issue when changing a saw blade... I've seen
plenty of things not turn on, for various and sun dry reasons":-)

Now some of these modern computers... Those stupid things turn on when
power is connected.

Yes some do, some don't. When I ran a BBS it was imperative that the PC
turn on and boot by itself. There were some that didn't, and that was a
problem if you ran a BBS.

--
Jack
Mr. Geithner, May I Borrow Your TurboTax?
http://jbstein.com

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a few
times.

I don't know what drive system contractor saws use. I know the Craftsman
my Dad had, used a toothed belt, so if the motor stopped, the blade would
stop, at least until it tore the teeth off the belt. I think some use a
gear drive, don't they?
--
Jim in NC


Toothed belt,, as in like a timing belt? or a standard automotive belt?
Normal drive belts with the notches cut out are made that way so that they
can turn a tigher radius. Those normally have no more grip than a belt with
out a notches cut out. A timing style belt with equal sized spaced, and
shallower notches are designed for absolutely no slip.

Some saws are actually direct drive and bench top saws are typically gear
reductions.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:43:59 -0500, "Leon" wrote:

A "couple of times" solves the stated problem.

Think again if you think a blade making 2 revolutions will not remove a
digit. If a blade has enough momentum to spin 1 complete revolution against
the friction on a stationary belt or motor it has enough to slice through
your hand.


The typical electronic brake found on most miter saws will not prevent you
from being cut either but does reduce the window of opportunity.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:46:01 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Leon" wrote

That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a
few
times.

I don't know what drive system contractor saws use. I know the Craftsman
my Dad had, used a toothed belt, so if the motor stopped, the blade would
stop, at least until it tore the teeth off the belt. I think some use a
gear drive, don't they?

I don't know any with a gear drive. Small table-top units are generally
direct drive. Full sized table saws are almost all belt driven. Not all
have
teeth, though. I wouldn't imagine gears would be a good thing on a table
saw.


DeWalt, Makita etc, all gear driven. Basically bench top saws have use
universal motors and gear reduction, loud like miter saws.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 11:30:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

Can't agree, that technology had been around for many years. I have
lamps in my house that turn off when touched, building elevator buttons
that select by touch, and my I-phone needs the touch of skin, not a
stylus or finger nail to work.

But none of those are spinning rapidly :-). And aren't some of them
pressure-sensitive rather than touch-sensitive?



Lets take all of what was in my post,

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before
you lose said pinkie.

Can't agree, that technology had been around for many years. I have lamps
in my house that turn off when touched, building elevator buttons that
select by touch, and my I-phone needs the touch of skin, not a stylus or
finger nail to work.


Getting a blade spinning in excess of 3000 rpm to stop in a small fraction
of a turn and drop below the table surface is the tricky part.





I was refering to how the switch touch technology regardless of application
has been around a long time. In fact some times a static charge in your
finger is enough to operate the switch with out actually touching the
switch. Not to be confused with touch screens that require pressure as you
mentioned, GPS screens typically needs the pressure.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:51:46 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:43:59 -0500, "Leon" wrote:

A "couple of times" solves the stated problem.

Think again if you think a blade making 2 revolutions will not remove a
digit. If a blade has enough momentum to spin 1 complete revolution against
the friction on a stationary belt or motor it has enough to slice through
your hand.

That wasn't the problem. The problem was the blade taking too long to spin
down and reaching in there before it did. We weren't redesigning the SawStop.

The typical electronic brake found on most miter saws will not prevent you
from being cut either but does reduce the window of opportunity.

Prevent no, but it takes time to move hands. The issue was why this wasn't
done for more expensive table saws with a far more expensive/complicated
controller.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:58:53 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:46:01 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Leon" wrote

That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a
few
times.

I don't know what drive system contractor saws use. I know the Craftsman
my Dad had, used a toothed belt, so if the motor stopped, the blade would
stop, at least until it tore the teeth off the belt. I think some use a
gear drive, don't they?

I don't know any with a gear drive. Small table-top units are generally
direct drive. Full sized table saws are almost all belt driven. Not all
have
teeth, though. I wouldn't imagine gears would be a good thing on a table
saw.


DeWalt, Makita etc, all gear driven. Basically bench top saws have use
universal motors and gear reduction, loud like miter saws.

Yes, you're right. I was thinking universal motors, but forgot the speed
problem. Double ick!

"Leon" wrote

Toothed belt,, as in like a timing belt? or a standard automotive belt?

Yes, my Dad's Craftsman table saw uses a toothed timing belt style for
driving the blade. They seem to break at the most inopertune times, so he
always had an extra one on hand so he could quickly change it and get back
to work.
--
Jim in NC

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 02:58:30 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down
due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Nevahoiduvit, neither.


Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

"Extension-cord-with-magnetic-starter-built-in", perhaps? ;O

"inline mag starter" maybe?


You got good results from those?

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

Oh, I think I would stick with the GFCE with a manual reset, for this
price.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/UL-...UZ7?Pid=search

I sent a reply to the poster, instead of the group earlier by mistake.
Here is that message with a link.

found this brand, but I think they are all GFCI's, too. I have found that
using a GFCI on top of a GFCI protected like can sometimes lead to
excessive
false resets.

I will keep looking for a little while, but there is one type. Just find
a
dealer and you are all set.

I forgot the link the first time.
http://tools.passandseymour.com/psgf...leGFCI_bro.pdf
--
Jim in NC

Pass and Seymour offer Manual Reset models, so probably the same price as
Grainger. I think I'll just remember to unplug!

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Pass and Seymour offer Manual Reset models, so probably the same price as
Grainger. I think I'll just remember to unplug!

I found it for about 36 bucks, but lost it, now.
--
Jim in NC

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:58:53 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


DeWalt, Makita etc, all gear driven. Basically bench top saws have use
universal motors and gear reduction, loud like miter saws.

Yes, you're right. I was thinking universal motors, but forgot the speed
problem. Double ick!


Not totally debunking your previous thought, there is a regular here that
has a "direct drive" TS. I do not recall the size but do believe that it
was on the small size. Years back Craftsman contractor saws, for a short
period of time, used a flex shaft to connect the motor to the blade, I don't
know if that would be considered a true direct drive or not.

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

Toothed belt,, as in like a timing belt? or a standard automotive belt?

Yes, my Dad's Craftsman table saw uses a toothed timing belt style for
driving the blade. They seem to break at the most inopertune times, so he
always had an extra one on hand so he could quickly change it and get back
to work.
--
Jim in NC


Wow, I'd like to have seen the pulleys.

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 02:58:30 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down
due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Nevahoiduvit, neither.


Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to
search for.

"Extension-cord-with-magnetic-starter-built-in", perhaps? ;O

"inline mag starter" maybe?


You got good results from those?

Nope, I didn't try either that day. What'd you find? Anything?

"Leon" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:58:53 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


DeWalt, Makita etc, all gear driven. Basically bench top saws have use
universal motors and gear reduction, loud like miter saws.

Yes, you're right. I was thinking universal motors, but forgot the speed
problem. Double ick!


Not totally debunking your previous thought, there is a regular here that
has a "direct drive" TS. I do not recall the size but do believe that it
was on the small size. Years back Craftsman contractor saws, for a short
period of time, used a flex shaft to connect the motor to the blade, I
don't know if that would be considered a true direct drive or not.


You may be referring to me. I don;t have the saw any longer but it was a
full size saw with a direct drive induction motor.
Blade was mounted directly on the motor shaft. The only problem with that
set up is that the blade height was restricted by the motor. Very smooth and
quiet though.

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Pass and Seymour offer Manual Reset models, so probably the same price as
Grainger. I think I'll just remember to unplug!


The local (El Paso) Lowes has them.

http://tinyurl.com/2vcnlt4

Max

"CW" wrote in message
m...
You may be referring to me. I don;t have the saw any longer but it was a
full size saw with a direct drive induction motor.
Blade was mounted directly on the motor shaft. The only problem with that
set up is that the blade height was restricted by the motor. Very smooth
and quiet though.


Yeah I thought it was you, CW. Did not want to say with out knowing for
sure. I bet that saw was smooth, what happened with it?

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 02:58:30 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Which tools should have, as they cannot start if they were shut down
due
to a power failure and the power is restored. No foul if the TV comes
back on, but power tools are a whole other story.

Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for
tools
without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just
mentioned?

Nevahoiduvit, neither.


Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what
to
search for.

"Extension-cord-with-magnetic-starter-built-in", perhaps? ;O

"inline mag starter" maybe?


You got good results from those?

Nope, I didn't try either that day. What'd you find? Anything?

Nothing

"Max" wrote in message
...
"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Pass and Seymour offer Manual Reset models, so probably the same price as
Grainger. I think I'll just remember to unplug!


The local (El Paso) Lowes has them.

http://tinyurl.com/2vcnlt4

Max

Those are GFCI. What we're looking for is a cord with a switch that will go
to Off on a power loss and require a Manual reset.

--
National Socialism showed what can happen when very ordinary people get
control of a state and the merely opportunistic are regarded as
intellectuals.

Anthony Burgess

"Lobby Dosser" wrote

Those are GFCI. What we're looking for is a cord with a switch that will
go to Off on a power loss and require a Manual reset.

SOME of the GFCI variety will behave as we need them too, and need a manual
reset after the power is off. The trick is checking which ones are like
that.

I will try to remember and check the ones at Lowe's to see if they require a
manual reset when powered on.
--
Jim in NC