This is better with some resistance to absorb the energy. Without it the
switch contacts usually burn off, quickly.


"Father Haskell" wrote in message
news:02510f27-22e4-4de7-afca-Electric brake -- short out the supply wires
after cutting the power,
and the motor forces itself to stop.

"Max" wrote in message
...

The only problem I have with all these safety devices is that, in my
experience with the Fire Department, they do tend to have unintended
consequences; that being that people tend to be less concious of safety.
The government can only do so much to require things to be foolproof.
There really is no such thing.
My wife's car tells the driver when the lights are left on, to fasten a
seat belt, if a door is ajar, if the trunk lid or hood is open, if the
fuel level is low,
and probably several other things that I've not yet had the occasion to
experience. And I'm not even going to tell you about the GPS!!
It's enough to give me an inferiority complex.

Max



First time I ever experienced the Talking Car was a Renault rental in Santa
Barbara about 25 years ago. I got so bent out of shape at it, I hunted down
the connector and unplugged it. Told the rental guy when I turned it in and
he asked me to show him how to disconnect it as he had complaints from
everyone who drove one of the Renaults.

--
Never underestimate the stupidity of a know-it-all.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Lobby Dosser wrote:

None of these saws have blade guards?

Sure. All new saws come with blade guards and the guards receive about as
much attention as the sixteen-page safety manuals that also accompany a
new saw.

Like the safety manuals, the blade guards are included with a new saw for
the company's benefit, not the consumers'.


That's a rather strange idea. I understand that telling you not to use the
hedge clippers to cut junior's hair is there purely for legal pre-emption,
but there is surely Some meat in the safety instructions. And as far as the
blade guards go, I've never had a problem with them and remove mine only for
the obvious reasons. Granted I am not doing woodworking for a living or even
as a significant part time avocation, but I think if I were doing it for a
living I'd pay even more attention to safety. Familiarity does breed
forgetfulness.

--
Never underestimate the stupidity of a know-it-all.

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that
is
necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.

--

I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that
weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn. I don't
see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before you
lose said pinkie.

"HeyBub" wrote

Lobby Dosser wrote:

None of these saws have blade guards?

Sure. All new saws come with blade guards and the guards receive about as
much attention as the sixteen-page safety manuals that also accompany a
new saw.

Like the safety manuals, the blade guards are included with a new saw for
the company's benefit, not the consumers'.

It seem so me that one reason why people discard the crown guard (hood,
Murricans) is the following ( http://tinyurl.com/382fe4c )

1910.213(c)(1)

'The hood and mounting shall be arranged so that the hood will automatically
adjust itself to the thickness of and remain in contact with the material
being cut but it shall not offer any considerable resistance to insertion of
material to saw or to passage of the material being sawed.'

Of the few I've tried, this is darned near impossible to get the hood to
automatically be elevated by the leading edge of the job if one is sawing
material of varying thicknesses, so it is not surprising that people get fed
up with them.

There's a pic of an ideal(?) but darned expensive and difficult-to-fit guard
at the foot of http://tinyurl.com/pywalm

Jeff

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"Father Haskell" wrote

Electric brake -- short out the supply wires after cutting the power,
and the motor forces itself to stop.

For an almost instant stop, I gather that something called DC injection is
required and this requires a special and expensive motor.

Jeff

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

On 8/8/2010 9:37 PM, Larry W wrote:
In ,
Mike wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that is
necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.

--

I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn.

At 30 RPM you have half a second to stop the blade in a quarter turn.
Sawstop stops the blade in .005 second.

I don't see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.

So design a system, patent it, and open source the patent. It's amazing
how easy engineering is when somebody else has to do it.

Lobby Dosser wrote:


The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing
when your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade
before you lose said pinkie.

Correct - that's why I say that SawStop is not necessary for the original
problem - that being the blade taking a long time to spin down when shut
off.

--

-Mike-

Not true.

I worked with many different dynamic and mechanical braking systems,
including DC Injection braking and none were any special motors. OTOH these
were industrial applications using larger HP units.

Geeeeez. My cheap $189 slide saw has dynamic braking on it and I doubt it is
any special motor. The blade had to worth half the price. It also has a
delay circuit that doesn't react immediately.


"Jeff Gorman" wrote in message
...
For an almost instant stop, I gather that something called DC injection is
required and this requires a special and expensive motor.

Jeff



"Father Haskell" wrote
Electric brake -- short out the supply wires after cutting the power,
and the motor forces itself to stop.

J. Clarke wrote:

At the same time, on repetitive cuts, I find myself losing focus on the
blade--

This is what is dangerous, imo.

I know that if I don't put some kind of guard in place I'm going
to hit it eventually. You do 20 or so of the same movement and a
conditioned response starts to form that takes the higher brain
functions out of the loop ("wax on, wax off"). So project for the week
is figuring out how to guard the sled.

This part I don't think so. I think the blade guards promote taking the
"higher brain out of the loop".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjvmF...eature=related

I couldn't find the video of the one I saw on TV a few years ago, those
guys made this stuff look safe...

Anyway, I don't use guards, my saw didn't come with one, and if it did,
I'd remove it. Knowing my saw can cut off my hand in an instant if I'm
not careful keeps my brain in gear. If I was so worried about it and
thought I couldn't get by w/o a guard, I'd buy a saw stop, still
wouldn't fuss with a guard. The only caveat I have is age. As you get
older, eyes are worse, reactions are worse, and brain goes out of the
loop much easier than it did in the past. So far, knowing this has made
me more careful than ever, but saw stop is looking more interesting as I
the years add up...

--
Jack
From Little A.C.O.R.N.S Mighty Marxist Grow!
http://jbstein.com

On Aug 9, 12:41*am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message

...





In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. *A simple brake is all that
is
necessary. *With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.

--

I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that
weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn. I don't
see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before you
lose said pinkie.

I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.

On Aug 9, 9:36*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 9, 12:41*am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:



"Larry W" wrote in message

...

In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. *A simple brake is all that
is
necessary. *With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.

--

I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that
weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn. I don't
see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before you
lose said pinkie.

I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.

How cold is the water?

On Aug 9, 11:22*am, " wrote:
On Aug 9, 9:36*am, Robatoy wrote:





On Aug 9, 12:41*am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:

"Larry W" wrote in message

...

In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. *A simple brake is all that
is
necessary. *With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.

--

I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that
weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn. I don't
see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before you
lose said pinkie.

I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.

How cold is the water?

LOL

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke wrote:

At the same time, on repetitive cuts, I find myself losing focus on the
blade--

This is what is dangerous, imo.

Having chopped half my thumb off after cutting dado's and after turning the
saw off, the safe procedure for me is to always keep my focus on the blade
if you are close enought to touch it until it comes to a complete stop.

Snip



Anyway, I don't use guards, my saw didn't come with one, and if it did,
I'd remove it. Knowing my saw can cut off my hand in an instant if I'm
not careful keeps my brain in gear. If I was so worried about it and
thought I couldn't get by w/o a guard, I'd buy a saw stop, still wouldn't
fuss with a guard. The only caveat I have is age. As you get older, eyes
are worse, reactions are worse, and brain goes out of the loop much easier
than it did in the past. So far, knowing this has made me more careful
than ever, but saw stop is looking more interesting as I the years add
up...

Agreed, I have used a guard and finally took it off after it cause me to get
hurt but not badly many years before chopping my thumb. Small pieces can
get caught in the guard, get trapped, and shoot out like a bullet.
Reguardless of what safety measures you take, eventually you are going to
get hurt one way or another. It's just a risk you take. And NEVER assume
you will not get hurt because of some short sighted notion that you know all
the safety rules, safety rules don't cover half of what could happen.

Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 9, 11:22 am, " wrote:
On Aug 9, 9:36 am, Robatoy wrote:





On Aug 9, 12:41 am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
...snipped...
Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that
is
necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really
should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability - it's
been around forever.
--
I agree with that: I've seen brake setups on industrial machinery powered
by 150 HP motors, geared down to about 30 RPM turning a roller that
weighed
a few tons, that could stop the roller in less than a 1/4 turn. I don't
see
why any sacrificial parts are necessary for a saw to do what the sawstop
does. If Delta, Jet, etc. wanted to spend a little R&D money, they
could build a safer saw that was _better_ than sawstop.
The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before you
lose said pinkie.
I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.
How cold is the water?

LOL
More importantly, how deep is it?

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...



Some years ago, the federal government, in its infinite wisdom, and
all the while thinking of the children, mandated that washing
machines come to a complete stop in just a few seconds (like three).

It shouldn't be hard to transfer that technology to table saws.


Sawstop

Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that
is necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability -
it's been around forever.

Granted but the reason to stop the blade is for safety and that technology
is already around on several levels of effectiveness.

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
"Larry W" wrote in message
...

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before
you lose said pinkie.

Can't agree, that technology had been around for many years. I have lamps
in my house that turn off when touched, building elevator buttons that
select by touch, and my I-phone needs the touch of skin, not a stylus or
finger nail to work.


Getting a blade spinning in excess of 3000 rpm to stop in a small fraction
of a turn and drop below the table surface is the tricky part.

On Aug 9, 12:24*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

...





Leon wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
news:VbOdncf_jINvv8PRnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d@earthlink. com...

Some years ago, the federal government, in its infinite wisdom, and
all the while thinking of the children, mandated that washing
machines come to a complete stop in just a few seconds (like three).

It shouldn't be hard to transfer that technology to table saws.

Sawstop

Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. *A simple brake is all that
is necessary. *With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same capability -
it's been around forever.

Granted but the reason to stop the blade is for safety and that technology
is already around on several levels of effectiveness.

Electric brakes are a bit easier on universal (brushed) motors.

On Aug 9, 11:30*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message

...

"Larry W" wrote in message
...

The claim to fame for SawStop is Not stopping the blade, but Sensing when
your pinkie finger touched the blade and Then stopping the blade before
you lose said pinkie.

Can't agree, that technology had been around for many years. *I have lamps
in my house that turn off when touched, building elevator buttons that
select by touch, and my I-phone needs the touch of skin, not a stylus or
finger nail to work.

Getting a blade spinning in excess of 3000 rpm to stop in a small fraction
of a turn and drop below the table surface is the tricky part.

No, getting around the SawStop patent is the tricky part.

Robatoy wrote:

I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.

Every new toilet installation should have one of these:

http://www.prankplace.com/product.as...FQgQswodMVv1Uw

I got one, and it's a hoot! You never heard such noises...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Aug 9, 12:24 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that
is necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same
capability -
it's been around forever.

Granted but the reason to stop the blade is for safety and that technology
is already around on several levels of effectiveness.

Electric brakes are a bit easier on universal (brushed) motors.



BUT! Are'nt we talking about stopping a blade on a TS? Most contractors
and larger don't use universal motors and stopping the motor is not going to
stop the blade. With belts, the blade will continue to spin enough to hurt
you.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 15:55:33 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Aug 9, 12:24 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Nah - don't need sawstop for this need Leon. A simple brake is all that
is necessary. With all of the chop saws that come with brakes today, it
really should be no big deal for a table saw to have the same
capability -
it's been around forever.

Granted but the reason to stop the blade is for safety and that technology
is already around on several levels of effectiveness.

Electric brakes are a bit easier on universal (brushed) motors.



BUT! Are'nt we talking about stopping a blade on a TS? Most contractors
and larger don't use universal motors and stopping the motor is not going to
stop the blade. With belts, the blade will continue to spin enough to hurt
you.

Stopping the motor had better stop the blade, and darn quick. Certainly fast
enough for the stated problem (not SawStop).

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:48:54 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

Not true.

I worked with many different dynamic and mechanical braking systems,
including DC Injection braking and none were any special motors. OTOH these
were industrial applications using larger HP units.

Geeeeez. My cheap $189 slide saw has dynamic braking on it and I doubt it is
any special motor. The blade had to worth half the price. It also has a
delay circuit that doesn't react immediately.

That's why I'm surprised higher end table saws don't use dynamic braking. The
controller is a lot more complicated (expensive) than a slider's. It doesn't
seem like much of a stretch to add a couple of contacts to it.

wrote in message
news
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 15:55:33 -0500, "Leon" wrote:



BUT! Are'nt we talking about stopping a blade on a TS? Most contractors
and larger don't use universal motors and stopping the motor is not going
to
stop the blade. With belts, the blade will continue to spin enough to
hurt
you.

Stopping the motor had better stop the blade, and darn quick. Certainly
fast
enough for the stated problem (not SawStop).


That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a few
times.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:43:59 -0500, "Leon" wrote:


wrote in message
news
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 15:55:33 -0500, "Leon" wrote:



BUT! Are'nt we talking about stopping a blade on a TS? Most contractors
and larger don't use universal motors and stopping the motor is not going
to
stop the blade. With belts, the blade will continue to spin enough to
hurt
you.

Stopping the motor had better stop the blade, and darn quick. Certainly
fast
enough for the stated problem (not SawStop).


That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a few
times.

A "couple of times" solves the stated problem.

" wrote in
:

That's why I'm surprised higher end table saws don't use dynamic
braking. The controller is a lot more complicated (expensive) than a
slider's. It doesn't seem like much of a stretch to add a couple of
contacts to it.

As a side benefit, you can put the generated energy back in the grid and
recoup some of the electric cost of running the saw. *grin*

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

I usually keep mine accuratly adjusted to under a 32nd of an inch, and it
stays there for a long period of time. It takes something hitting it really
hard to knock it out of adjustment.

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their setting
for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut what I set it
on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate cut, I check the
setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly always what I had the
scale set on.
--
Jim in NC

"Leon" wrote

That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a few
times.

I don't know what drive system contractor saws use. I know the Craftsman
my Dad had, used a toothed belt, so if the motor stopped, the blade would
stop, at least until it tore the teeth off the belt. I think some use a
gear drive, don't they?
--
Jim in NC

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the
casting set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with
nothing to let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the
casting.

I usually keep mine accuratly adjusted to under a 32nd of an inch, and it
stays there for a long period of time. It takes something hitting it
really hard to knock it out of adjustment.

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut what I
set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate cut, I check
the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly always what I had
the scale set on.
--
Jim in NC

What he said but 1/32 of an inch is not close enough for me.
Tape measure? ACK! I use a dial gauge *very* rarely but I have a rule
that's marked in 64ths and I expect the fence to be *on the money*.

Max

The cost of the dual register meter would break even in how many decades?
LOL


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
As a side benefit, you can put the generated energy back in the grid and
recoup some of the electric cost of running the saw. *grin*

Puckdropper


" wrote in
:

That's why I'm surprised higher end table saws don't use dynamic
braking. The controller is a lot more complicated (expensive) than a
slider's. It doesn't seem like much of a stretch to add a couple of
contacts to it.

"Morgans" wrote in
:

*snip*

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut
what I set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate
cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly
always what I had the scale set on.

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 10 Aug 2010 03:40:18 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in
:

*snip*

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut
what I set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate
cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly
always what I had the scale set on.

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

I've never trusted the fence indicator. I put a Wixey gauge on mine and it
seems to be pretty good. Once a session I zero it against the blade and all
seems to be well.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400, "Morgans" wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

I usually keep mine accuratly adjusted to under a 32nd of an inch, and it
stays there for a long period of time. It takes something hitting it really
hard to knock it out of adjustment.

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their setting
for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut what I set it
on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate cut, I check the
setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly always what I had the
scale set on.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:46:01 -0400, "Morgans" wrote:


"Leon" wrote

That would be the desired effect but with a contractors saw I would be
shocked if the motor stopped and the blade did not continue to spin a few
times.

I don't know what drive system contractor saws use. I know the Craftsman
my Dad had, used a toothed belt, so if the motor stopped, the blade would
stop, at least until it tore the teeth off the belt. I think some use a
gear drive, don't they?

I don't know any with a gear drive. Small table-top units are generally
direct drive. Full sized table saws are almost all belt driven. Not all have
teeth, though. I wouldn't imagine gears would be a good thing on a table saw.

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 22:29:33 -0400, "Josepi" wrote:

The cost of the dual register meter would break even in how many decades?

The meter is free. Unless there is something intentionally installed in the
meter, all will run backwards if the energy goes the other way. The hardware
needed to sync to the line, OTOH,...

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400, wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not. My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer. And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy both
have one.

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On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:22:11 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Aug 9, 9:36*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 9, 12:41*am, "Lobby Dosser" wrote:

I just installed a new high-tech toilet. (For real) It has a dampening
mechanism for lowering the seat. I will be designing a logo in a
similar vein as Sawstop and call it LopStop. The days of having a seat
slam on one's schlong are over.

How cold is the water?

The deeper water is coldest. DAMHIKT

On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400, wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

On 08/09/2010 11:26 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:06:41 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 8/9/2010 10:53 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:38:36 -0400, wrote:


wrote

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting
that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting
set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to
let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to the
back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is nothing to
get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're easily
adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

You're speaking about that which you know not.

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

From what I can see, you were _telling_ us, not asking, about the stability of the
Unifence, and without any real first-hand knowledge. That makes _me_ the dummy?

My Unisaw has a Unifence and it
doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the
*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

Well it certainly depends on the application as to what fence is a better choice. If I'm
running a production cabinet shop with husky galoots slamming sheet goods through the
machine all day long, then I'm not gonna give 'em a Unifence; it's designed for finesse and
accuracy, not abuse. I'm not gonna take my Ford F350 Power Stroke Diesel on a leisurely
trip through the Texas Hill Country, and I'm not gonna take my Porsche to lumber yard to
pick up roofing material.

And yes, I've used a
Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy both
have one.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

And I'm sorry you got your boxers in a bunch.

--
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(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
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On 08/09/2010 10:51 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On 10 Aug 2010 03:40:18 GMT, Puckdropperpuckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

wrote in
:

*snip*

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their
setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut
what I set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate
cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly
always what I had the scale set on.

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as
the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw
moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the
fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

I've never trusted the fence indicator. I put a Wixey gauge on mine and it
seems to be pretty good. Once a session I zero it against the blade and all
seems to be well.

I absolutely trust the Unifence indicator, sometimes down to a 1/64" and it never fails me.
I zero it to the blade maybe once a year; I can't recall it ever needing adjusting...

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