I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.

The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.

Thanks,

Andy Barss

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote:

I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop

I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust or since many
of your machine tools are mobile, over the area where you usually use
them.

On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale wrote:

I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust

Dust, not chips.

There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench,
because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that
falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need
a cyclone before a ceiling filter).

Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of
dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table
to deal with finishing work at source.

Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere
near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 06:58:31 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale wrote:

I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust

Dust, not chips.

There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench,
because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that
falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need
a cyclone before a ceiling filter).

Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of
dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table
to deal with finishing work at source.

Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere
near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.

I know this is never done, but if you RTFM you'll see that it warns not to put
it near the "exit path" or something of a machine..
Best protection IMHO is:
A good mask.. (do as I say, etc.)
A DC to get as much as possible before it gets to the mask..
An air scrubber to get the fine stuff that the DC misses..

Followed by going over the shop with a 2.5" hose connected to the DC before the
wife complains.. (My shop IS in the house)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

The concept was flow in the room. It draws air through it and
will work the room better that way. Creating side currents.

Straight on might leave voids of dead air.

Temp mount it and do a smoke test. See how it draws a smokey pot from
all parts - find dead parts - rotate or move and test again.

I'm sure they had to defend their stance that it worked and proved the
use.

Test yourself. It is in your best interest.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.

The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.

Thanks,

Andy Barss

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote:

I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.

The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.

Thanks,

Andy Barss
I've had mine in a couple of places in the shop.. I find that air flow is key..
Best place for me is with the intake end in the center of the room with the
exhaust end pointed towards which ever wall is farthest from it..
Either end too close to a wall or corner messes with the whole shops airflow..

Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust
collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 20 Jun 2010 23:08:08 -0700, mac davis
wrote:
Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust
collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..

Good point. Shows what I know about air cleaners.

On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.

The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.


Mine, the same one you have, is mounted 7' up and mid way between my
workbench, where most of the sanding is done, and the miter saw, which
kicks up the most fine dust ... both being about 5 feet apart.

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Gee....thanks for the "drive by"....

I'm still on my old 5" ROS tied to that super quite Crapsman 10hp shop vac..

Swingman wrote:

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Gee....thanks for the "drive by"....

I'm still on my old 5" ROS tied to that super quite Crapsman 10hp shop
vac..

Swingman wrote:



That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.



LOL. My super quiet Craftsman is in the attic, being super quiet and
unused. Seriousely the Festool Vac is quieter than the sander. The absence
of dust is the only indicator that the vac is actually running.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.


Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)

On 6/22/2010 8:13 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.


Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)

LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the
other day??!

It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ...

Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.

Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete
the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman wrote:

LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400

Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered
plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use
one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a
60 tooth carbide blade?

On 6/24/2010 12:58 PM, Upscale wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, wrote:

LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400

Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered
plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use
one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a
60 tooth carbide blade?

Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.

That said, and after cutting a lot of utility plywood with it in the
interim, I did dull the blade by hitting an embedded drywall screw the
other day and noticed that the cut quality had indeed degraded slightly.

That can't be blamed on the saw, and this was in a rift sawn oak, A1
plywood that has had a notoriously brittle veneer in the past that is
even prone to splinter a bit with a Forrest WWII. Hell, it splinters if
you drag an assembled cabinet across the work bench or floor before it's
been stained/finished.

I'll simply use the blade in question henceforth for utility and rough
cuts only.

... it's wise to do that in any event.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 6/22/2010 8:13 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor.


Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)

LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the
other day??!

It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ...

Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.

Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete
the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander.


Just brought my first Rotex sander and the CT22 home. Looking forward
to not having to wear the dual cartridge mask while sanding.
Unfortunately the plunge saw was back ordered. I've got a Laguna
sliding table and it still looks easier to cut sheet goods with the
plunge saw then trying to muscle 3/4" plywood around.

Mike M

On 6/25/2010 7:43 PM, Mike M wrote:

Just brought my first Rotex sander and the CT22 home. Looking forward
to not having to wear the dual cartridge mask while sanding.
Unfortunately the plunge saw was back ordered. I've got a Laguna
sliding table and it still looks easier to cut sheet goods with the
plunge saw then trying to muscle 3/4" plywood around.

Definitely is for me, particularly when you consider that you can get
equal accuracy/cut quality with the plunge saw and guide rail.

Since I batch cut cabinet parts, and if I didn't have a table saw, I
would definitely want the parallel guide system as well.

This appears to be a fair review of that item:

http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage83.html

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner.


Hello!

Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.

SonomaProducts.com wrote:

: One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
: house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
: door, which is in the SE corner.


: Hello!

: Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
: house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
: would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
: would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
: the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
: house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.

It's actually in a guesthouse, not the main house. I have considered
adding a single room air conditioner to the shop and closing off the vent
to isolate the shop from the rest of the guesthouse.

-- Andy Barss

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:13:21 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote the following:


One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner.


Hello!

Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.

One Filtrete HEPA filter does that for $12.95 per quarter. NOT a prob.

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang