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mounting a ceiling air filter
I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated. The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere. One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet. Thanks, Andy Barss |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote: I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust or since many of your machine tools are mobile, over the area where you usually use them. |
mounting a ceiling air filter
The concept was flow in the room. It draws air through it and
will work the room better that way. Creating side currents. Straight on might leave voids of dead air. Temp mount it and do a smoke test. See how it draws a smokey pot from all parts - find dead parts - rotate or move and test again. I'm sure they had to defend their stance that it worked and proved the use. Test yourself. It is in your best interest. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net "Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote: I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated. The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere. One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet. Thanks, Andy Barss |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote: I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated. The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere. One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet. Thanks, Andy Barss I've had mine in a couple of places in the shop.. I find that air flow is key.. Best place for me is with the intake end in the center of the room with the exhaust end pointed towards which ever wall is farthest from it.. Either end too close to a wall or corner messes with the whole shops airflow.. Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Sun, 20 Jun 2010 23:08:08 -0700, mac davis
wrote: Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne.. Good point. Shows what I know about air cleaners. |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale wrote:
I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust Dust, not chips. There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench, because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need a cyclone before a ceiling filter). Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table to deal with finishing work at source. Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors. |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated. The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere. One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet. Mine, the same one you have, is mounted 7' up and mid way between my workbench, where most of the sanding is done, and the miter saw, which kicks up the most fine dust ... both being about 5 feet apart. That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :) -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
mounting a ceiling air filter
Gee....thanks for the "drive by"....
I'm still on my old 5" ROS tied to that super quite Crapsman 10hp shop vac.. Swingman wrote: That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :) |
mounting a ceiling air filter
One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. Hello! Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc. |
mounting a ceiling air filter
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
: One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the : house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the : door, which is in the SE corner. : Hello! : Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the : house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you : would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I : would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from : the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole : house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc. It's actually in a guesthouse, not the main house. I have considered adding a single room air conditioner to the shop and closing off the vent to isolate the shop from the rest of the guesthouse. -- Andy Barss |
mounting a ceiling air filter
"Swingman" wrote in message ... That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :) Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to remember that you have "2" of them. ;~) |
mounting a ceiling air filter
"Pat Barber" wrote in message ... Gee....thanks for the "drive by".... I'm still on my old 5" ROS tied to that super quite Crapsman 10hp shop vac.. Swingman wrote: That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :) LOL. My super quiet Craftsman is in the attic, being super quiet and unused. Seriousely the Festool Vac is quieter than the sander. The absence of dust is the only indicator that the vac is actually running. |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:13:21 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote the following: One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. Hello! Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc. One Filtrete HEPA filter does that for $12.95 per quarter. NOT a prob. -- Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst. -- Lin Yutang |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 06:58:31 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote: On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale wrote: I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust Dust, not chips. There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench, because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need a cyclone before a ceiling filter). Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table to deal with finishing work at source. Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors. I know this is never done, but if you RTFM you'll see that it warns not to put it near the "exit path" or something of a machine.. Best protection IMHO is: A good mask.. (do as I say, etc.) A DC to get as much as possible before it gets to the mask.. An air scrubber to get the fine stuff that the DC misses.. Followed by going over the shop with a 2.5" hose connected to the DC before the wife complains.. (My shop IS in the house) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On 6/22/2010 8:13 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :) Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to remember that you have "2" of them. ;~) LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400 EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the other day??! It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ... :) Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time. Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander. :) -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman wrote:
LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400 Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a 60 tooth carbide blade? |
mounting a ceiling air filter
On 6/24/2010 12:58 PM, Upscale wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, wrote: LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400 Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a 60 tooth carbide blade? Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock. That said, and after cutting a lot of utility plywood with it in the interim, I did dull the blade by hitting an embedded drywall screw the other day and noticed that the cut quality had indeed degraded slightly. That can't be blamed on the saw, and this was in a rift sawn oak, A1 plywood that has had a notoriously brittle veneer in the past that is even prone to splinter a bit with a Forrest WWII. Hell, it splinters if you drag an assembled cabinet across the work bench or floor before it's been stained/finished. I'll simply use the blade in question henceforth for utility and rough cuts only. ... it's wise to do that in any event. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Festool Tracksaw
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock. If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75. The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75 which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother cut. |
Festool Tracksaw
On 6/24/2010 9:28 PM, Upscale wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, wrote: Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock. If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75. The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75 which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother cut. I felt like I needed the extra cutting capacity, and it turns out I was correct in that. There is substantial difference in weight ... about 4lbs, IIRC. In your case, and particularly just wanting a saw to cut sheet goods, I suspect the 55 may be the better choice in saws Leon was recently on the fence with the same issue you face. Might want to ping him and see his reasons for choosing the TS75 as he generally gives these things a good deal of thought and consideration before leaping, and rarely goes for size alone. You will definitely be tickled with whichever one you buy. :) -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Festool Tracksaw
"Upscale" wrote in message
... On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, Swingman wrote: Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock. If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75. The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75 which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother cut. How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF, I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do around the TS. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF, I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do around the TS. Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy. It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm considering the track saw. And since my table saw resides in a friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there. Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. A track saw could put much of that control back in my hands. |
Festool Tracksaw
"Upscale" wrote in message
... On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF, I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do around the TS. Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy. OK, that answers that one. Thanks. :( It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm considering the track saw. By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help? And since my table saw resides in a friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there. I may have to use SWMBO as a push stick. :() Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. Yeah, that's pretty much what you get around here. They'll do one or two cuts free and the rest at $0.50 a cut, but only to the nearest 1/2 inch and it's a crap shoot whether ot not you get someone reasonably competent on the panel saw. NTM whether or not the blade is in decent shape. A track saw could put much of that control back in my hands. I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the brain. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Jun 25, 3:01*am, Upscale wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF, I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do around the TS. Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy. It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm considering the track saw. And since my table saw resides in a friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there. Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. A track saw could put much of that control back in my hands. I think the track saw will be just the ticket for you. Now you get to sell your TS to the friend to help finance the Festool purchase. ;) R |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm considering the track saw. By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help? I have plenty of requisite strength if needed, but for me, it's all about reach, or lack of it in my case.. A panel saw type of apparatus would be suitable. Basically, something to hold a sheet of plywood upright solidly, but several inches off the ground. Essentially, it would be a panel saw without the saw part and I'd be adding the Festool track saw to the party. Being able to lean down and up gives me 5' or more of cutting reach which would be great for 4x8 plywood. I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great for splinter free edges. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote: I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the brain. I was looking at some Laguna panel saws with push button operation. One of them cuts to 0.08 tolerances IIRC. THAT'S what I really need. However, I don't have the space to set one up and I certainly don't have the discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:13:04 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
I think the track saw will be just the ticket for you. Now you get to sell your TS to the friend to help finance the Festool purchase. ;) A little correction. I refer to it as "my table saw", but I did sell it to him several years ago for a paltry $100 and dinner in a decent restaurant. The benefit to me is that I get to go over there and use it frequently, in the summer anyway. |
Festool Tracksaw
"Upscale" wrote in message
... On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm considering the track saw. By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help? I have plenty of requisite strength if needed, but for me, it's all about reach, or lack of it in my case.. A panel saw type of apparatus would be suitable. Basically, something to hold a sheet of plywood upright solidly, but several inches off the ground. Essentially, it would be a panel saw without the saw part and I'd be adding the Festool track saw to the party. Being able to lean down and up gives me 5' or more of cutting reach which would be great for 4x8 plywood. I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great for splinter free edges. While I've been brainstorming what to do I thought about the possibility of having some sort of pulley arrangement for the panel saw. Maybe counterweights to pull the saw through a cut. Another option you might want to consider is using the panel 'saw' as a router platform. I think this might be fairly easy with Festool. IIRC the 'track' part works with their saw and router. Are you planning to put this in your friend's garage, or in your apartment? |
Festool Tracksaw
"Upscale" wrote in message
... On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" wrote: I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the brain. I was looking at some Laguna panel saws with push button operation. One of them cuts to 0.08 tolerances IIRC. THAT'S what I really need. However, I don't have the space to set one up and I certainly don't have the discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it. GASP! |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:30:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
Are you planning to put this in your friend's garage, or in your apartment? Apartment, my living room to be exact. It would be nice if I had a spare room that I could dedicate to woodworking, but it's not to be. The biggest problem will be dust of course. I've got a balcony, so I might consider using that for the occasional plywood cut. Today actually, I'll be going down to order a Festool Domino and CT22 dust collector so, I'll see how satisfied I am with it collecting dust inside and then consider other possibilities. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:31:12 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" have the
discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it. GASP! To be honest, the $10,000 dollar ones are the lower end. The push button ones start coming in at about $25,000. Their "panel" saws are in fact table saws with computer operation. Certainly take up more floor space than anywhere I currently have access to. |
Festool Tracksaw
Upscale wrote:
I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great for splinter free edges. If you clamp the festool rail your procedure of "cutting half, going around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way." will be perfectly safe (assuming a sufficent overhang of the rail) and will give you splinter free edges as well. You will be unable to tell where you started and stopped However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain. the video is in Russian but it is not a problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa4x0xv1izI&hd=1 http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/pss31se230vo.html -- replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml |
Festool Tracksaw
|
Festool Tracksaw
"Jerome Meekings" wrote However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain. the video is in Russian but it is not a problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa4x0xv1izI&hd=1 http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/pss31se230vo.html Damn, I am impressed. I like it. It is pricey though. You know it is expensive when it cost more than a Festool. I would have to learn some russian and have a 230 volt plug to use the thing. But it is nice. Have you seen this thing in action? |
Festool Tracksaw
On 6/25/2010 2:01 AM, Upscale wrote:
Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is extremely awkward for me. Although there will always be the occasional awkward cut, I do think the TS55, along with a low, cutting/assembly table, would be a system that would make your plywood cutting chores a lot easier for you ... and possibly open up a whole new world of enjoyment. I can verify that, in conjunction with a Festool dust extraction unit like the CT22E, there will also be a lot less sawdust to deal with. Although there will always be some sawdust generated when using any circular saw, I would say that the combo effectively removes about 95% when used properly. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Festool Tracksaw
On Jun 25, 8:21*am, Swingman wrote:
On 6/25/2010 2:01 AM, Upscale wrote: Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is extremely awkward for me. Although there will always be the occasional awkward cut, I do think the TS55, along with a low, cutting/assembly table, would be a system that would make your plywood cutting chores a lot easier for you ... and possibly open up a whole new world of enjoyment. I can verify that, in conjunction with a Festool dust extraction unit like the CT22E, there will also be a lot less sawdust to deal with. Although there will always be some sawdust generated when using any circular saw, I would say that the combo effectively removes about 95% when used properly. I'm planning on buying a OF 1400 (and maybe a TS55 later) this weekend and was wondering about dust collection. Can I use my existing dust collection stuff (i.e. are the ports "standard")? I *really* don't want to buy into festering dust stuff. It might be a deal killer. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Jun 25, 7:18*am, Upscale wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:29:54 +0900, If you clamp the festool rail your procedure of "cutting half, going around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way." will be perfectly safe (assuming a sufficent overhang of the rail) and will give you splinter free edges as well. You will be unable to tell where you started and stopped I have to wonder about that. There's been times on the table saw with its 60 tooth carbide blade that I've been feeding a sheet of plywood, taken several seconds to reposition myself and then fed the rest of the sheet through. Invariable, the plywood has shown some type of burn mark and almost as often has left some type of defect to the edge of the plywood. I'm sure it hasn't shifted during my repositioning, but I get similar problems anyway. The only way I've been able to avoid it was continual feeding all the way through. I guess the solution there would be an automatic feeder of some type. Yabbut the Festool blade retracts when you stop so the blade doesn't spin against the wood and burn it when your stop the saw. The edge will be fine as long as you don't disturb the track while repositioning. I think you may want to look into making a trestle leg adjustable table that would allow you to clamp the workpiece and track and put the whole shebang at a height and angle that works for the cut and workpiece size. Some DeStaco clamps sliding in T-track would probably be the ticket. That way when you're cutting with the piece at an angle to maximize your reach, the piece and offcut would stay put. However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain. Interesting tool. Considering what I'm about to spend on my Domino with accessories, the Mafell is not all that out of line. Yep, that's one interesting tool. I wonder how long it will be until they come up with an automatic track saw with a stored cutlist capability. Morris, CNC and wood...? R |
Festool Tracksaw
On Jun 25, 1:19*pm, Swingman wrote:
[snipped all kinds of usefulness for brevity's sake]] . like with a sander, where you may have to cut back on the DE suck so that the sander doesn't get stuck to the workpiece ... not kidding. Solid surface guys love that feature. It gives a consistent downward force which 'breaks' when the pad on the sander tilts and loses 'da suck'. Those guys use 'full-on' suck, so the variable suction of the Festool doesn't get used all that much so you'll see a lot of Fein vacuums in those types of shops. I have used and liked both. For maximum sander suck, the Fein Turbo III is hard to beat. Fein sells and adaptor which will convert the Euro-style connector to a normal one, or back. On the topic of the Festool TS75, Dave Eisan gave a quote on a 'kit' yesterday. The Multi Function table DEEEluxe, 108" track, clamps and a TS75 for the price of a mediocre hybrid table saw. Nothing to talk about. He also dug up an older Bosch barrel grip Jigsaw, brand new, which I drooled on and had to buy. Big ol' motor, cast shoe. The variable speed and toolless bit change were new to me (on a Bosch) even though the Milwaukee Topgrip had those features, and I liked that saw a lot too, but glad to have a Bosch barrel grip again. When a design works, don't change. |
Festool Tracksaw
On Jun 25, 3:44*pm, Robatoy wrote:
He also dug up an older Bosch barrel grip Jigsaw, brand new, which I drooled on and had to buy. Big ol' motor, cast shoe. The variable speed and toolless bit change were new to me (on a Bosch) even though the Milwaukee Topgrip had those features, and I liked that saw a lot too, but glad to have a Bosch barrel grip again. When a design works, don't change. I didn't see that one coming. I figured you had the Festool jigsaw. I've had a couple or three Bosch jigsaws over the years, and I liked them, but I love the Festool. The cut is truer to square than the Bosch or DW jigsaws I've used, the dust collection is superior, and the splinter guards work great. Resistance is futile. R |
Festool Tracksaw
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 6/25/2010 10:23 AM, wrote: I'm planning on buying a OF 1400 (and maybe a TS55 later) this weekend and was wondering about dust collection. Can I use my existing dust collection stuff (i.e. are the ports "standard")? I *really* don't want to buy into festering dust stuff. It might be a deal killer. AFAIK they are not standard, but there should be adapters that will work. Hmm, not promising. I could save a couple of hundred bucks and just buy a Bosch (if I can find one). Again, I don't want yet *another* dust collector in the way. On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of face frames for a cabinet job and repaired a family heirloom table for someone in the last week or so and that's the first time I've ever used the Kreg jig with NO sawdust whatsoever, none, zip, nada! That would be nice. That said, all bets are off as to the effectiveness of Festool 'tool dust collector ports' with other dust collectors or shop vacs, but they should work, after a fashion, with the right adapters. There is a fairly decent "package" discount when buying a DE with a saw, and the DE works with all other Festool tools. I don't really need a saw right now (and would rather replace my SCMS, but the Festool sale is a good deal). I really need a plunge router (to go with the still-in-the-box Mortice Pal). I guess I could put off the decision about dust collection and the TS55 for a few weeks. The beauty of the Festool components is that they are designed to work together. You plug the Festool into the DE and the dust collection starts and stops with the tool; plus their variable speed function works well with various tasks ... like with a sander, where you may have to cut back on the DE suck so that the sander doesn't get stuck to the workpiece ... not kidding. I do that with my SCMS now. I just haven't bothered with the other tools. |
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