I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...210453_std.jpg

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

" wrote in message
...
I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...210453_std.jpg

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Taper cut on a band saw.

On Mar 19, 9:19*am, "Leon" wrote:
" wrote in message

Taper cut on a band saw.

Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(

Won't fit. *No riser attachment :-(

Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know *

Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the table
and shove it into the blade at an angle. *You know, taper. *Or use a
hatchet.

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging!

" wrote in
:

Won't fit. *No riser attachment :-(

Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know *

Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the
tabl
e
and shove it into the blade at an angle. *You know, taper. *Or use a
hatchet.

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging!

Temporarily nail a plank to the bottom to serve as a reference. Then cut
them on a bandsaw with the plank resting flat on the table. It may be
easier to cut both ends fresh using the plan than to try to nail a plank
square with an existing end.

Doug White

On Mar 19, 10:15*am, " wrote:
I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. *The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...ges/split_rail...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? *I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! *Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. *Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

" wrote in
:

I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...s/split_rail.1
90210453_std.jpg

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Perhaps a jig made of two pieces of wood with parallel faces attached at
the appropriate angle to another piece that holds your wood in place.
The saw could then reference off the parallel faces of the jig and give
your tapers. Turn the wood over to finish the joint.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 3/19/2010 9:15 AM, wrote:

Wit's end here!

Have you tried to rent a portable band saw?

I've seen them with cutting depths from 4 3/4 to 6".


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mar 19, 8:15*am, " wrote:

about trimming ends of a rail to fit mortises...

hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging!

Support the work on sawhorses, hold the first end vertical and then
mark off (with chalk or crayon) the second end using a level.
Chop to the mark.

A hatchet is one tool, the oldtimers might have had an adze that would
do
the job a tad easier... Roy Underhill did some adze-and-axe shows
(The Woodwright's Shop) and heavy timbers sure looked like fun!

On Mar 19, 11:21*am, John Martin wrote:
On Mar 19, 10:15*am, " wrote:



I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. *The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...ges/split_rail...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? *I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! *Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. *Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. *Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. *Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. *You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.

Sounds like a perfect job for a reciprocating saw / saws-all / demolishion
saw

Check them out at HD or Lowes or where ever

Matt

Flat Draw Knife.
They cut and split faster than you think. Could pre-shape and finalize.

Martin

wrote:
I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...210453_std.jpg

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:15:48 -0700 (PDT), the infamous
" scrawled the following:

I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...210453_std.jpg

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Neanderthals everywhere are looking at each other wondering why you
haven't sat down at your shave horse with a drawknife and hacked those
things out in minutes.

Normites are wondering why your bandsaw is going unused.

DO I make myself clear, soldier? Have at it!

P.S: I've seen machetes wielded well for this task, too.

--
Adults are obsolete children. --Dr. Seuss (Theodore Geisel, 1904-1991)
--

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:33:41 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 19, 11:21*am, John Martin wrote:
On Mar 19, 10:15*am, " wrote:



I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. *The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...ges/split_rail...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? *I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! *Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. *Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. *Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. *Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. *You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.

....chainsaws are *very* adaptable devices, when you finish your long
cuts you can modify/touch-up using the saw perpendicular to the cut
you're working on and lightly (heh) letting the blade take off excess
material with little risk...

cg

" wrote in message
...
Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(

Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know

Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the table
and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
hatchet.

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging.

Rough it with an axe, finish with a power hand plane. Use a level to get
both ends in the same plane.

"CW" wrote in message
m...

" wrote in message
...
Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(

Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know

Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the
table
and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
hatchet.

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging.

Rough it with an axe, finish with a power hand plane. Use a level to get
both ends in the same plane.

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

There is one on Craig's List
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/1652772152.html which is how I found
out about them today!

John

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:36:19 -0700, the infamous Chasgroh
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:33:41 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 19, 11:21*am, John Martin wrote:
On Mar 19, 10:15*am, " wrote:



I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. *The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...ges/split_rail...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? *I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! *Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. *Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. *Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. *Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. *You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.

...chainsaws are *very* adaptable devices, when you finish your long
cuts you can modify/touch-up using the saw perpendicular to the cut
you're working on and lightly (heh) letting the blade take off excess
material with little risk...

You can also drill holes in the bar and stick long handles on 'em to
help guide the tip for more precise carving. Be sure to use a guard
(large tsuba) to keep your hand away from the blade if you do that.

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler

Old timey guys (like me) sould use an adze and go slow.

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
bseg

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
bseg

That does seem to carry a negative connotation doesn't it... ;~)

Maybe I'm missing something, but this thing looks like a kick back
nightmare... need to have Saw Stop technology added to this to make it safe
from the lawyers. ;~)

John

On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:09:51 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
bseg

That does seem to carry a negative connotation doesn't it... ;~)

Maybe I'm missing something, but this thing looks like a kick back
nightmare... need to have Saw Stop technology added to this to make it safe
from the lawyers. ;~)

"Log Wizard: Making Standard Chainsaws Look Like Boy Scout Toys!"

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
bseg


That sucker might eat clean through your steel toe boots! A regular
Langolier.

On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:19:42 -0700, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
scrawled the following:

The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/

Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
bseg


That sucker might eat clean through your steel toe boots! A regular
Langolier.

vbg Great movie/MEAN suckahs!

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler

On Mar 19, 11:21*am, John Martin wrote:
On Mar 19, 10:15*am, " wrote:



I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. *The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this pictu

http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_si...ges/split_rail...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? *I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! *Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. *Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

Cheers

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. *Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. *Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. *You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

Tried this, with the bar parallel to the length of the rail and it
worked great. Just a few "touch up" strokes to make the very tips fit
in end posts and that's all there was to it. Thanks.

And thanks for all the other ideas, although I was trying to avoid
buying & learning a new tool (adze, drawknife, have an angle grinder
but not the 16 (?) grit sandpaper and/or chainsaw grinder attachment,
etc.) if possible. Fence alone nearly put me in the poorhouse.

Cheers

recip or sabre saw - I can get them looking as good as end rails
Takes about 90 seconds

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!


When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every power tool you could think of and the hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.

wrote in message
...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every
power tool you could think of and the
hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.

I'd be inclined to use a rip hand saw... but a sharp hatchet or axe would
work also. In either case the skill of the user will influence the results.

In article ,
says...

wrote in message
...

Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!

When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every
power tool you could think of and the
hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.

I'd be inclined to use a rip hand saw... but a sharp hatchet or axe would
work also. In either case the skill of the user will influence the results.

Thread from 2010 guys.