"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
rs.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested
a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

That's a half-asp addertude.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
proposition, even without carpet.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.

No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
sort.
(I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)

Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.

NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:10:08 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

On 3/12/2010 6:05 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:10:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Skilsaw, cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
saved: Humongous amounts.

I'm with you on this one, C-less.

He gets through 4 of the 6 joists, and whatever rig he's using snaps
somewhere between #3 and #4, with the bit embedded in #5 becuase he's
hit a knot... Start again.

How many times, and at what cost?

Clare... Don't be stupid. take the easy way.
I did take the easy way.
The dang carpet is worth something like $50 a yard.
The plywood is glued and screwed to the joists. Cannot remove it
without doing significant damage. And remember i it is ONE AND A HALF
INCHES THICK.

I made the tool to do the job and got the job done. Including my time
the cost was just around the hundred bucks (they pay me $35 an hour)

That's not bad at all--there's a guy who makes 10 foot extensions and
gets something like 100 bucks a shot for them.


"the original" ten foot drill?
Ran across that one as I was looking for a solution.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:05:40 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.

So you posted here for what reason? You were obviously finished the job
before most people had a chance to reply.

And now you decide to come back and insult the people you were asking
for advice...

Nice way to meet a bunch of kill-files, Clare.
I was hoping for some input last night. By noon today I had to get
moving. I decided on my own that the forstner was the way to go, and
it appears I was right..

No one even addressed the question I asked - everyone (well, just
about everyone) intimated I was crazy to try and I was better to
dismantle the raised floor to do the job. Was NOT going to happen.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about
$50/yd
Carpet there?
No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
proposition, even without carpet.


Yeah, right ...

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

That's a half-asp addertude.

aaargh .,..

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 18:41:45 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

On Mar 12, 4:48?pm, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 07:11:15 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

A spade bit might have a rough punch-through, so go slow and have
patience at the end point. ?Make sure the bit is sharp. ?I think I
would try welding a spade bit onto a 1/2" pipe and make a separate
chuck insert (fitted/welded onto a 1/2" sleeve, for the pipe) for
fitting into the drill chuck. ?A spade bit is a lot cheaper than an
auger bit for a one-time use (once welded).

If access space, in starting, is limited, also, the 1/2" pipe can be
in successive 24" - 36" sections. ?Any connecting sleeves will pass
through the 1-1/2" holes and the chuck insert fitting can be moved
back, as each successive pipe section is attached. ?Save the set-up
for future use (???, LOL) and use the pipe sections for pipe clamps.

Sonny

?I tried the spade bit first ( on a test piece, out in the open) and
the breakthrough was BRUTAL. The forstner is self guiding and worked a
real treat.

Glad the pipes/extensions worked. That seemed the logical approach.
I didn't think of using a forstner bit and I'll remember the lesson of
that big of spade bit. I've never had to use one that big. And you
still have the pipes for clamps!

Sonny
Thanks Sonny - you were about the only respondent that even
considered my plan might work. Asked the "boss" what the chances were
that I might use the setup again in my lifetime (I'm 58) and he just
laughed.

If I had to pull the bit back out the holes it might have been a
problem, but I was able to reach in the access hole where the
electrical boxes will be mounted, 13 feet in, and release the bit with
an allen key, tie a twine on the end of the extension, and pull it
back out the hole. The twine will pull in the cable on Monday.

In article ,
Morris Dovey wrote:
On 3/12/2010 9:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

That's a half-asp addertude.

Methinks some of these joke don't adder up. OH, krait, I'm contributing to
the problem.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:31:41 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:15:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
to pull it?

It is gled and screwed to the joists so it can not be removed without
destroying both.

Nah, just cut a foot wide strip, cut it out between joists, break off
most of the top, and route or chisel it flat. No joist damage.


What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.

Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
extension, do you?!?

Yes TWE:LVE FEET.

I did it this afternoon. bought a 12 inch 7/15 AF extension and cut
it in half. Banged the cut end of each peice into a 1.4 to 3/8 NPT
bushing and mig welded it in. Put that bushing into a 1/2 to 3/8NPT
reducer and threaded it onto each end of a 4 ft piece of 1/2"
galvanized water pipe. Chucked a 1 1/2" forstner bit into the hex bit
holder end, and chucked the other end into a 450RPM half inch drill.
When I got in 4 feet, I took off the drive end with s pipe wrench and
using a pipe couipling, added another 4 feet, and so on untill I was

Oh, so you had access from the side? I don't believe you mentioned
that. You just say you -didn't- have it from the bottom.


in all the way.

I love those four words together, in that pattern. domg


I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
connection between the bit and the extension.

Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
sets available if you like 'em.


Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
with couplers it should be handleable?

Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
nail it in? grrr Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
saved: Humongous amounts.


Did you read ONE AND A HALF INCH THICK PLYWOOD????

Yeah, it's called "flooring", clare. Some is screwed, some nailed,
some nailed and glued, some screwed and glued. Here's the key point I
was making: IT'S JUST WOOD. You can handle cutting wood, yes?


Doing it with the water pipe took almost half an hour for the first
hole, and 10 minutes for the second one. Making the tool took 1/2 hour
at the "borg" getting parts, and half an hour at the fabricating shop
cutting and welding.

Alright, so you're done. Good for you. How did you like the way the
forstner worked?

--
There is no such thing as limits to growth, because there are no limits
to the human capacity for intelligence, imagination, and wonder.
--Ronald Reagan

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.


Better yet, Carpenter Ants.

On 3/12/2010 12:47 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote:

Yabbut right after that he wrote:

The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

Guess you missed that part, eh?

Not engaging brain late at night will do that to ya.

Mea Culpa.

No problemo.

You just owe me a free pass the next time *my* brain goes pfffffft!


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:09:39 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
No, but just the 1 1/2 inch plywood alone makes it an expensive
proposition, even without carpet.

Two strips from a piece of 3/4" ply = 1.5" thick ply, about $20 here.
Your billdrit cost you more than that.

--
Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to
make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done,
whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be
learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably
the last lesson that he learns thoroughly.
-- Thomas H. Huxley

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:20:38 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.

No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
sort.
(I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)

Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.

NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.

OK, the final question is: Why did you even ask for help?

Sign me "Stunned at his reaction and attitude" blink, blink, shrug

--
Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to
make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done,
whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be
learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably
the last lesson that he learns thoroughly.
-- Thomas H. Huxley

In article ,
LDosser wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.


Better yet, Carpenter Ants.


How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this- problem?

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/12/2010 12:47 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote:

Yabbut right after that he wrote:

The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1
1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

Guess you missed that part, eh?

Not engaging brain late at night will do that to ya.

Mea Culpa.

No problemo.

You just owe me a free pass the next time *my* brain goes pfffffft!

I can see it now:
"This is your brain.....
This is your brain on an air-hose. pffffft!"

`

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:00:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:31:41 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:15:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:48:43 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

What does the decking have to do with drilling joists? You don't want
to pull it?

It is gled and screwed to the joists so it can not be removed without
destroying both.

Nah, just cut a foot wide strip, cut it out between joists, break off
most of the top, and route or chisel it flat. No joist damage.


What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it
needs to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----.

Use a 12ga extension. HF has 25' x 12ga for $10 which are nice. I use
mine all the time for their 12" SCMS. YOu don't mean 12' metal
extension, do you?!?

Yes TWE:LVE FEET.

I did it this afternoon. bought a 12 inch 7/15 AF extension and cut
it in half. Banged the cut end of each peice into a 1.4 to 3/8 NPT
bushing and mig welded it in. Put that bushing into a 1/2 to 3/8NPT
reducer and threaded it onto each end of a 4 ft piece of 1/2"
galvanized water pipe. Chucked a 1 1/2" forstner bit into the hex bit
holder end, and chucked the other end into a 450RPM half inch drill.
When I got in 4 feet, I took off the drive end with s pipe wrench and
using a pipe couipling, added another 4 feet, and so on untill I was

Oh, so you had access from the side? I don't believe you mentioned
that. You just say you -didn't- have it from the bottom.


in all the way.

I love those four words together, in that pattern. domg


I tried a speed-bore type spade bit, but it has a bad habit of
"catching" just as it breaks through - putting a severe strain on the
connection between the bit and the extension.

Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?
Augers self-feed and don't break out as hard. There are short auger
sets available if you like 'em.


Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I
might need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft
welded into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length
with couplers it should be handleable?

Oh, you do mean physical, not electrical. Why don't you just unscrew
the decking and have a friend help lift it? Or did some jerk just
nail it in? grrr Ooh, flooring might be glued, too, huh? Skilsaw,
cut a long slot, lift it, replace and reglue with caulk as an
adhesive. Cost: 1 sheet of flooring. Time saved: a day. Frustration
saved: Humongous amounts.


Did you read ONE AND A HALF INCH THICK PLYWOOD????

Yeah, it's called "flooring", clare. Some is screwed, some nailed,
some nailed and glued, some screwed and glued. Here's the key point I
was making: IT'S JUST WOOD. You can handle cutting wood, yes?


Doing it with the water pipe took almost half an hour for the first
hole, and 10 minutes for the second one. Making the tool took 1/2 hour
at the "borg" getting parts, and half an hour at the fabricating shop
cutting and welding.

Alright, so you're done. Good for you. How did you like the way the
forstner worked?
It worked very well, thank you. Would have worked better if it was
sharp (it was a borrowed well-used bit)

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 09:12:26 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:20:38 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:06:59 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:29:51 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:



On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the
plywood!
You'd pull 1 1/2 inches of glued and screwed plywood? Destroying both
the plywood and the joists?????..

It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job.
With no damage to the structure.


Your Original Post:

[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from
the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable
across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]

See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd
Carpet there?
I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.

No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY
OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT
would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was
pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some
sort.
(I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked,
giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)

Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a
damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.

NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They
also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I
found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding.
The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also
requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin
layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against,
or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.

OK, the final question is: Why did you even ask for help?

Sign me "Stunned at his reaction and attitude" blink, blink, shrug


I just asked which kind of bit would require the least amount of
power, making it the easiest to do the job.

Sorry you don't like my attitude, but I wasn't asking how to do the
job. I was just asking what tool to use.
It had already been decided for me that the job needed to be done
without tearing up the decking, and I can't help it if some people
cannot read or grasp the reality of what was written. I though I had
explained the setup adequately in clear enough language - I guess,
from the replies, I was wrong.

You can't go AROUND the decK?

At the expense you're looking at, you could build a nicely trimmed valence
box of some kind to hide the cable



I guess routing a couple channels into the deck wouldn't work either?

On 3/13/2010 8:41 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
communications...
In article ,
LDosser wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you
read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.


Better yet, Carpenter Ants.


How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this-
problem?




Teeth?

Karen could have SUNG the damned hole into it. I was way up in the
cheap seats at the Jacksonville Coliseum when her mike died. She still
managed to make herself heard. That was a _big_ hall with lousy
acoustics. ****, I get all maudlin every time I think about her.

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, clare wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from the
one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable across
to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it needs
to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----. I tried a speed-bore type
spade bit, but it has a bad habit of "catching" just as it breaks
through - putting a severe strain on the connection between the bit and
the extension.

Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?

Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I might
need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft welded
into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length with
couplers it should be handleable?

used to work in the pile driving business, had to bolt piles together for
breakwaters, welded the 1" bits onto 4-5' rods. 1 person would hold the
centre of the rod to keep the wobble down. will take some work to keep
the holes lined up straight because of the spaces between the joists will
allow the bits to drop.

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 15:56:16 -0500, the infamous
scrawled the following:

I just asked which kind of bit would require the least amount of
power, making it the easiest to do the job.

Sorry you don't like my attitude, but I wasn't asking how to do the
job. I was just asking what tool to use.

Had that been made clear, we wouldn't have replied as we did.


It had already been decided for me that the job needed to be done
without tearing up the decking, and I can't help it if some people
cannot read or grasp the reality of what was written.

Ah, but you _didn't_ write that part. shrug


I though I had
explained the setup adequately in clear enough language - I guess,
from the replies, I was wrong.

To avoid having people rethink the problem for you, state your reason
for not doing it x, y, and z ways in your initial request. The more
info given, the less there is on which to misinterpret or ad-lib.

Glad you got it done.

--
I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study
mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and
philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation,
commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to
study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and
porcelain.
-- John Adams

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:01:38 -0600, the infamous
(Robert Bonomi) scrawled the following:

In article ,
LDosser wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/2010 10:08 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:30:52 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only
from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to
pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are
sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read
that right) plywood.

Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who
suggested a
hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2"
high
space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.


Buy a Boa?

Yeah, a boa contractor.

And if that doesn't work, Python it.

You're all going about it from the wrong end. This is a job for trained
termites.


Better yet, Carpenter Ants.


How are Richard and Karen's mother's sisters going to help with -this- problem?

Mandibularly, my dear Watson.

--
I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study
mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and
philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation,
commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to
study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and
porcelain.
-- John Adams

Subject

Lesson learned.

Wait until has made at least 3 responses to others
before considering a post.

Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
problem.

Lew

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 00:30:04 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

Karen could have SUNG the damned hole into it. I was way up in the
cheap seats at the Jacksonville Coliseum when her mike died. She still
managed to make herself heard. That was a _big_ hall with lousy
acoustics. ****, I get all maudlin every time I think about her.

You ADMIT to going to see The Carpenters in concert, you brave and
foolish person? g

--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:

Subject

Lesson learned.

Wait until has made at least 3 responses to others
before considering a post.

Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
problem.

Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?

--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 05:44:03 GMT, Al
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:46:55 -0500, clare wrote:

I've got myself into a situation -
I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from the
one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable across
to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on
concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.

What is the lowest power-requiring type of drill to use/ since it needs
to be run on a 12 foot long extension-----. I tried a speed-bore type
spade bit, but it has a bad habit of "catching" just as it breaks
through - putting a severe strain on the connection between the bit and
the extension.

Would a forstner type work better? Or an auger?

Still looking for a viable bit extender setup as well - thinking I might
need to go to 1/2" steel waterpipe with a 7/16 or 1/2" hex shaft welded
into the one end for the chuck to grab. In 3 or 4 foot length with
couplers it should be handleable?

used to work in the pile driving business, had to bolt piles together for
breakwaters, welded the 1" bits onto 4-5' rods. 1 person would hold the
centre of the rod to keep the wobble down. will take some work to keep
the holes lined up straight because of the spaces between the joists will
allow the bits to drop.
dropped about 3 inches in 12 feet.

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:48:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:

Subject

Lesson learned.

Wait until has made at least 3 responses to others
before considering a post.

Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
problem.

Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?


I didn't think I had to lay it ALL out to get the answer to the
question I was asking.

I just asked what was the lowest power-absorbing kind of drill bit to
use to drill numerous holes in SPF floor joists. I guess I gave TOO
MUCH information in my request, which sent everybody off in all sorts
of directions OTHER than the power requirements of different drilling
methods.

Then I got stuck explaining why the answers I was getting were not the
answer to the question I asked.


The answer, from trying it and other observations -
A) -The spade bit breaks through unpredictable and may jam, causing
high torque to be transmitted through the drive (it took the gearcase
off a brand new PorterCable hanner drill, running in straight drilling
mode and low gear with ONE catch)

B) - an auger bit in the size I required was not readily available to
test

C) a 1/3.4" Forstner bit with 7/16" hex drive was available to be
tried, and it had no break-through issues, even when not drilling
square because of it's self guiding and basically 360 degree cutting
action. . It exhibited very low driving torque requirements as
detected at the drill-motor - and did the job just fine.

It did the job on the end of a series of 1.2 inch water pipes threaded
together to go in 12 feet.

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:37:46 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:48:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:

Subject

Lesson learned.

Wait until has made at least 3 responses to others
before considering a post.

Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the
problem.

Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?


I didn't think I had to lay it ALL out to get the answer to the
question I was asking.

C'mon, Clare. You know us better than that. We're _fixers_, fer
cryin' out loud. Too little info just screams to be addended!

--
No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up.
--Lily Tomlin