I need to staple or nail some 1/8" hardboard to the back of a bedroom mirror
frame to help hold the mirror in place. The staple thus needs to go through
the hardboard and into the old wood (probably maple?). Since it's time I
own a staple gun, I was thinking of getting this one for the job:

Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gun
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-...2249029&sr=8-2

(unless someone recommends another one to me).

Is this sort of staple gun up to this kind of job (with what size staples)?
My intuition tells me to try 5/16" staples, but I would be happy to listen
to the voice of experience.

My intuition also tells me that hammering on a frame holding a mirror is a
task that that should make my caution flag go up. Actually, would be more
afraid of the prospect of trying to replace a uniquely-shaped mirror than I
would cleaning up the broken glass! I hate to think about the idea of
using duct tape for this repair because then I wouldn't be able to look at
myself in the mirror... : )

Thank you,
Bill

I have 3-4 stapleguns in my arsenal, and I can't see ANY of them being
up to your task... with the possible exception of a hammer-tacker
style for applying roof felt. I even have one of those electric fired
staplers, and it is more wimpy than the style with the backward
handle (do a Google Image search on an "EasyShot staplegun" to see
what I mean)

an eighth inch of hardboard is pretty hard to get through.

I would duct tape it in place temporarily, then drill some tiny pilot
holes, then maybe a small countersink treatment, and then a handful of
piano hinge screws to finish the job. Sure it will take a while, but
it will also last a while.

Best of luck!


Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gunhttp://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-SharpShooter-Heavy-Staple/dp/B000...

"xparatrooper" wrote in message
...
I have 3-4 stapleguns in my arsenal, and I can't see ANY of them being
up to your task... with the possible exception of a hammer-tacker
style for applying roof felt. I even have one of those electric fired
staplers, and it is more wimpy than the style with the backward
handle (do a Google Image search on an "EasyShot staplegun" to see
what I mean)

an eighth inch of hardboard is pretty hard to get through.

I would duct tape it in place temporarily, then drill some tiny pilot
holes, then maybe a small countersink treatment, and then a handful of
piano hinge screws to finish the job. Sure it will take a while, but
it will also last a while.

Best of luck!

I had not thought about the difficulty of penetrating the hardboard. I was
more concerned about the likelihood of splitting of the old wood from
driving in a fastener. I would consider drilling and screwing for that
reason rather than an impact fastener of any type.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to staple or nail some 1/8" hardboard to the back of a bedroom
mirror frame to help hold the mirror in place. The staple thus needs to
go through the hardboard and into the old wood (probably maple?). Since
it's time I own a staple gun, I was thinking of getting this one for the
job:

Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gun
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-...2249029&sr=8-2

(unless someone recommends another one to me).

Is this sort of staple gun up to this kind of job (with what size
staples)? My intuition tells me to try 5/16" staples, but I would be happy
to listen to the voice of experience.

My intuition also tells me that hammering on a frame holding a mirror is a
task that that should make my caution flag go up. Actually, would be more
afraid of the prospect of trying to replace a uniquely-shaped mirror than
I would cleaning up the broken glass! I hate to think about the idea of
using duct tape for this repair because then I wouldn't be able to look at
myself in the mirror... : )

Thank you,
Bill


Considering the amount of force necessary to penetrate the hardboard AND the
maple, I'd be concerned about the mirror. Small screws with pilot holes
seems the way to go IMHO.

Vic

"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to staple or nail some 1/8" hardboard to the back of a bedroom
mirror frame to help hold the mirror in place. The staple thus needs to
go through the hardboard and into the old wood (probably maple?). Since
it's time I own a staple gun, I was thinking of getting this one for the
job:

Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gun
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-...2249029&sr=8-2

(unless someone recommends another one to me).

Is this sort of staple gun up to this kind of job (with what size
staples)? My intuition tells me to try 5/16" staples, but I would be happy
to listen to the voice of experience.

My intuition also tells me that hammering on a frame holding a mirror is a
task that that should make my caution flag go up. Actually, would be more
afraid of the prospect of trying to replace a uniquely-shaped mirror than
I would cleaning up the broken glass! I hate to think about the idea of
using duct tape for this repair because then I wouldn't be able to look at
myself in the mirror... : )

IMHO no staple gun is worth a hoot unless it is air powered. If you have a
compressor you can probably get an air powered one at Harbor Freight for
about the same price.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to staple or nail some 1/8" hardboard to the back of a
bedroom mirror frame to help hold the mirror in place. The
staple thus needs to go through the hardboard and into the old
wood (probably maple?). Since it's time I own a staple gun, I
was thinking of getting this one for the job:

Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail Gun
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-...2249029&sr=8-2

(unless someone recommends another one to me).

Is this sort of staple gun up to this kind of job (with what
size staples)? My intuition tells me to try 5/16" staples, but I
would be happy to listen to the voice of experience.

My intuition also tells me that hammering on a frame holding a
mirror is a task that that should make my caution flag go up.
Actually, would be more afraid of the prospect of trying to
replace a uniquely-shaped mirror than I would cleaning up the
broken glass! I hate to think about the idea of using duct
tape for this repair because then I wouldn't be able to look at
myself in the mirror... : )


Many of the knock-down types of furniture come with a hardboard
backing, such as garage cabinets, book cases and even some
office-type of furniture. The typical installation uses
hammer-driven tacks to penetrate the hardboard and hold in the
particle board sides or shelves. I don't know of a squeeze-type
stapler that would do this; the materials are too hard and your
mirror frame would be even harder, I suspect.

When I've assembled garage cabinets, for instance, I've short
circuited the hammer/tack routine by using my small pneumatic
stapler with 5/16" staples. My suggestion would be to invest in
such a stapler from Harbor Freight, if you have or have access to
an air compressor. The very sharp stroke of the pneumatic
stapler, coupled with being sure the frame was firmly supported
where the staple was to be driven should protect the mirror.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

Thank you, and Bob La Londe, Vic Baron, Leon and Nonny, for replying to my
post!

I see that you are correct--a screwdriver makes alot more sense than a
hammer (or a staple gun)!

I supposed I was led astray by the fact that the previous repairer used
staples (and
probably a staplegun powered by a compressor...). Unfortunately, he or she
forgot
to put in "backing board" (to borrow from picture-frame terminology), or it
has slipped
out of place under the hardboard cover.

So, after I fit a 1/8" backing board and cover, the mirror will quit shaking
when we walk into the room.
Of course, in the meantime I shoved some folded up paper in the groove next
to the mirror
which stopped the shaking, but the next step is to fit everything properly!

Thank you all again for your valuable help, and happy new year!
Bill



"xparatrooper" wrote in message
...
I have 3-4 stapleguns in my arsenal, and I can't see ANY of them being
up to your task... with the possible exception of a hammer-tacker
style for applying roof felt. I even have one of those electric fired
staplers, and it is more wimpy than the style with the backward
handle (do a Google Image search on an "EasyShot staplegun" to see
what I mean)

an eighth inch of hardboard is pretty hard to get through.

I would duct tape it in place temporarily, then drill some tiny pilot
holes, then maybe a small countersink treatment, and then a handful of
piano hinge screws to finish the job. Sure it will take a while, but
it will also last a while.

Best of luck!


Stanley TR250 SharpShooter Plus Heavy Duty Staple/Brad Nail
Gunhttp://www.amazon.com/Stanley-TR250-SharpShooter-Heavy-Staple/dp/B000...

"xparatrooper" wrote in message
...
I have 3-4 stapleguns in my arsenal, and I can't see ANY of them being
up to your task... with the possible exception of a hammer-tacker
style for applying roof felt. I even have one of those electric fired
staplers, and it is more wimpy than the style with the backward
handle (do a Google Image search on an "EasyShot staplegun" to see
what I mean)

an eighth inch of hardboard is pretty hard to get through.
...

Best of luck!


In case you're curious how things worked out:

Went to Lowes, my favorite BORG, to pick up the hardboard.
Gosh, a 4' by 8' sheet is bigger in person (how am I going
to get that in the car?), then I noticed a short line of people in front
of a person running a saw and he was only too happy to cut my sheet
into two pieces. Lowes earns a point there, but loses one for not having
any wood screws shorter than 1/2". 1/2" will do.

Used my $19.99 HF reciprocating saw to trim off approximately what I needed.
Using an exact-o blade, like you would to cut drywall, sort of worked but
ended
up tearing the hardboard on the other side when I folded and separated the
pieces.
Hacksaw wasn't effective for the separation.

Fortunately my bureau mirror had a 1/2" rabbet for a "backing board" for the
mirror. I had my wife
hold the hardboard up to the mirror frame and I drew the outline. I added
3/8" all around to fit into the 1/2" rabbet. Then I started burning time
trying to cut it out...

The scroll saw I inherited from my dad was quite ineffective on the
hardboard--much
too slow, even after I installed a new blade (this was the first time I Ever
turned the saw on).
Tried a coping saw--gosh, that was my "tool of choice" back when I was
10 to 13 years old, and my cuts with it haven't improved after 30-some years
passing,
but I understand why now. I recalled that my last trip to an auction
resulted
in a $12 box of miscellaneous tools including an old 18" cross-cut saw. Ah,
that saw worked
pretty well. Working on top of my sawhorses, I even gave myself the
additional benefit
of using an extra 2 by 4 for a fence. My cutting looked much better than
that I did with the
coping saw. So well, that I linearized the curves I had to cut, and was
finished cutting
in a matter of minutes. My new "backing board" fit perfectly. The previous
owner of the
bureau somehow lost their backing board???

I predrilled holes and screwed the cover over the backing board (and
mirror). For reasons that
may be obvious to you the top of the wood screws didn't "seat" flush with
the surface. If I find some screws I like
better maybe I'll replace them someday (the ends of the 3-piece mirror tilts
toward the person
looking in the mirror, so looks count a bit). If I can color them brown, I
think I'll be able to put
them totally out of my mind..

4 1/2 hours from the time I left for the store until the time everything was
put away and
cleaned up. You may assume it was a really long way to Lowes. : ) I'm
sure I could
have found a "quicker fix", but I would not have been as
interesting/educational. I will appreciate
my bandsaw (and table saw) all the more when I get it! I expect a bandsaw
would have done
a nice job on the hardboard in short order!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
I expect a bandsaw would have done a nice job on the hardboard in short
order!

Bill


But then, I am still puzzled as to why the scroll saw didn't cut it?? My
dad used to cut a lot of 1/4" plastics (pseudo "stained glass")...maybe the
blades were too fine?

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Congrats on doing a DIY job and doing it well. IMHO, a scroll saw
has very limited use in a shop. The seem to work best when the
material is held firmly to the table, since the stroke and teeth
are so short that virtually any vibration almost eliminates
cutting.

Speaking from my own, personal, experience, is your blade on the
right way, with the teeth pointed downward? If not, you fall in
to probably the same group as the rest of us, who've made similar
mistakes. grin

I'd keep an eye out for pan head screws, rather than what sounds
like wood screws that you chose. If the screws are intended to be
countersunk, that's about impossible in hardboard unless you bore
a countersink. They're cheap at HD or Lowe's and you can do it
one screw at a time to prevent anything from shifting. Otherwise,
go with pan head and some brown paint.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

"Nonny" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Congrats on doing a DIY job and doing it well. IMHO, a scroll saw has
very limited use in a shop. The seem to work best when the material is
held firmly to the table, since the stroke and teeth are so short that
virtually any vibration almost eliminates cutting.

Thank you for your reply.
It occurred to me that what you described could have been happening.
It was just hard for me to accept that since I expected this would be an
ideal task for the scroll saw...I was wrong about that.


Speaking from my own, personal, experience, is your blade on the right
way, with the teeth pointed downward? If not, you fall in to probably the
same group as the rest of us, who've made similar mistakes. grin

I was very careful to get that part right! I just went and checked--yep,
I was careful.



I'd keep an eye out for pan head screws, rather than what sounds like wood
screws that you chose. If the screws are intended to be countersunk,
that's about impossible in hardboard unless you bore a countersink.

I thought about that. Seems like practically anything I could do to 1/8"
hardboard
would weaken it too much (correct me if I'm wrong).

The repair works. One no longer gets "bad vibrations" everytime they walk
into
the bedroom.

Best,
Bill



They're cheap at HD or Lowe's and you can do it
one screw at a time to prevent anything from shifting. Otherwise, go with
pan head and some brown paint.

--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.