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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play
house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#2
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The Medway Handyman wrote:
Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? I've never had a problem with air driven staplers, and they're lightning fast compared to the electric equivalent. Those that drive pins have given me grief though. |
#3
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 15:44:38 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? ================================== Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Cic. -- =================================== Using Ubuntu Linux Windows shown the door =================================== |
#4
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![]() "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message .. . Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? All my house was boarded out using 65mm staples ... nothing better for putting up Fermacell. |
#5
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On 2008-04-27 16:44:38 +0100, "The Medway Handyman"
said: Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? Possibly, although not a fault of the stapler. If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Even with 11-12mm it's marginal sometimes. I have a Porter Cable stapler and it works well, but I don't think that I would use it for this application. A regular 16ga nailer would be my preference, and 15ga for fence boards. |
#6
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![]() "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message .. . Still looking to speed up feather edge board fixing. Finished off a play house for my granddaughter today using a Tackwisw mains nailer with 25mm staples to fix the F/E boards. Two or three staples per board gave a surprisingly good fix. My existing compressor will run a suitable staple gun so this looks like a possible way ahead. Decided to stay with the screws for decking, so this would be simply for F/E boards. Any problems I haven't thought of? Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. |
#7
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![]() dennis@home wrote: Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. Cicero wrote; Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Andy Hall wrote; If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Splitting? Not a problem. I put up 60 el cheapo Wickes f/e boards on said playhouse, all stapled within 20mm of the ends - not a single incident or even suggestion of splitting. 25mm narrow crown staples. I think the staple goes in so fast it doesn't split. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#8
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![]() "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. Cicero wrote; Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Andy Hall wrote; If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Splitting? Not a problem. I put up 60 el cheapo Wickes f/e boards on said playhouse, all stapled within 20mm of the ends - not a single incident or even suggestion of splitting. 25mm narrow crown staples. I think the staple goes in so fast it doesn't split. They haven't been in long enough yet. I am referring to what happens when the wood shrinks and gets pulled apart by too many fixings not what happens when you hit them with a hammer. |
#9
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![]() dennis@home wrote: "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. Cicero wrote; Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Andy Hall wrote; If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Splitting? Not a problem. I put up 60 el cheapo Wickes f/e boards on said playhouse, all stapled within 20mm of the ends - not a single incident or even suggestion of splitting. 25mm narrow crown staples. I think the staple goes in so fast it doesn't split. They haven't been in long enough yet. I am referring to what happens when the wood shrinks and gets pulled apart by too many fixings not what happens when you hit them with a hammer. I'm confused. I haven't hit them with a hammer. I used an electric staple gun. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#10
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![]() "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. Cicero wrote; Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Andy Hall wrote; If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Splitting? Not a problem. I put up 60 el cheapo Wickes f/e boards on said playhouse, all stapled within 20mm of the ends - not a single incident or even suggestion of splitting. 25mm narrow crown staples. I think the staple goes in so fast it doesn't split. They haven't been in long enough yet. I am referring to what happens when the wood shrinks and gets pulled apart by too many fixings not what happens when you hit them with a hammer. I'm confused. I haven't hit them with a hammer. I used an electric staple gun. Staple guns have hammers in them.. they don't just push the staple in. |
#11
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dennis@home wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: "The Medway Handyman" wrote in message om... dennis@home wrote: Yes, you should only fix feather edge on one edge so it doesn't split. The one where two nails have been used at each side of the board will split. Staples may well split the wood too. Cicero wrote; Have you looked at T-nails (Screwfix catalogue)? The head on these is much bigger than the stem, and you might be able to get some to fit your existing gear. The T head would probably solve the potential splitting of feather edge boards. Andy Hall wrote; If you are going to use fairly thin feather edge board such as 9mm, you run the risk of splitting the board and it may also be difficult to staple in enough places for a solid fix and to hide the staple crowns. Splitting? Not a problem. I put up 60 el cheapo Wickes f/e boards on said playhouse, all stapled within 20mm of the ends - not a single incident or even suggestion of splitting. 25mm narrow crown staples. I think the staple goes in so fast it doesn't split. They haven't been in long enough yet. I am referring to what happens when the wood shrinks and gets pulled apart by too many fixings not what happens when you hit them with a hammer. I'm confused. I haven't hit them with a hammer. I used an electric staple gun. Staple guns have hammers in them.. they don't just push the staple in. The staples are thin enough not to split the wood. You can even pin a 3mm hardwood bead and not see the heads. |
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