Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and grand-children
can read these.

Suggested guidelines:

1. The "Tip" does not have to be your original thought - just one that you
use and find useful but please make note of country of origin in the post.

2. Multiple entries are encouraged.

3. If you have a variation on a specific tip or point, please follow the
original posting so it shows up in the archives correctly.

4. If you need to submit a graphic to clarify a tip, post it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking (a.b.p.w) using the same subject line
entry followed by a short description, i.e., Favorite Woodworking Tips
2004 - TS Alignment

5. Please no links to sites listing tips or information.

Realize that these posts will include ideas, suggestions and bits of wisdom
from around the world and that their entry(s) may not work for you because
of differences you may not be aware of. These differences may be created by
physical limitations of the equipment available to the individual in a
particular country (e.g., short arbors by the Brits), to major language
differences (e,g., the Aussies....;-).

No need to argue a point, simply suggest your alternative ideas and help the
tip grow. It just may spawn a new method of work or another idea that no
one has tried before.

If the tip pertains to doing something with/to wood using a tool, powered or
unpowered, then its acceptable. This includes all manner of woodworking,
from carving to woodturning and subcategories.

The prize...........

A wealth of archived information to draw upon that is now categorized under
one subject line.

Pass it on...

Bob S.

Here's one that may be helpful when you break off that nice shiny brass
screw you just inserted and don't have a screw extractor of the proper size.

Pick up several rolled pins at the local hardware or automotive store in
1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" sizes in lengths long enough to go to the depth of the
screw plus enough to be held in the chuck of your hand-held drill. (1"
length for the 1/8" up 2" length for the 1/4" pin)

Simply file a notch in the end of the pin to make it into a left-hand drill
bit, insert into your drill and set for reverse. Place over the screw and
drill down around the broken screw and pull out the plug. You can then fill
in the hole with a section of dowel and start over.

To make the rolled pin into a left-hand drill bit, hold the pin with the
seam facing you. At the top of the pin, use a small file to file down the
end on the left side of the seam leaving the right side of the seam intact
to form the cutting edge as shown below. This type of notching doesn't burn
the wood (as bad) in hardwoods as does just making a criss-cross cut on top
of the pin to drill the wood.

Notch
|\ | |
| \| | Rolled Pin
| | |
| | |
^^ Seam


Bob S.

TIP - Count fingers prior to and after every woodworking session!!! I'm
serious...this small exercise puts safety thoughts at the forefront during
your time in the shop.

Ken in Canada (eh!)
Burlington, Ontario


"Bob S." wrote in message
news
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and grand-children
can read these.

Suggested guidelines:

1. The "Tip" does not have to be your original thought - just one that you
use and find useful but please make note of country of origin in the post.

2. Multiple entries are encouraged.

3. If you have a variation on a specific tip or point, please follow the
original posting so it shows up in the archives correctly.

4. If you need to submit a graphic to clarify a tip, post it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking (a.b.p.w) using the same subject line
entry followed by a short description, i.e., Favorite Woodworking Tips
2004 - TS Alignment

5. Please no links to sites listing tips or information.

Realize that these posts will include ideas, suggestions and bits of
wisdom
from around the world and that their entry(s) may not work for you because
of differences you may not be aware of. These differences may be created
by
physical limitations of the equipment available to the individual in a
particular country (e.g., short arbors by the Brits), to major language
differences (e,g., the Aussies....;-).

No need to argue a point, simply suggest your alternative ideas and help
the
tip grow. It just may spawn a new method of work or another idea that no
one has tried before.

If the tip pertains to doing something with/to wood using a tool, powered
or
unpowered, then its acceptable. This includes all manner of woodworking,
from carving to woodturning and subcategories.

The prize...........

A wealth of archived information to draw upon that is now categorized
under
one subject line.

Pass it on...

Bob S.

Newsgroup Tip: Do not rely on a newsgroup as a data archive. News articles
expire on most news servers and are no longer available.


codepath




"Bob S." wrote in message
news
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and grand-children
can read these.

Suggested guidelines:

1. The "Tip" does not have to be your original thought - just one that you
use and find useful but please make note of country of origin in the post.

2. Multiple entries are encouraged.

3. If you have a variation on a specific tip or point, please follow the
original posting so it shows up in the archives correctly.

4. If you need to submit a graphic to clarify a tip, post it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking (a.b.p.w) using the same subject line
entry followed by a short description, i.e., Favorite Woodworking Tips
2004 - TS Alignment

5. Please no links to sites listing tips or information.

Realize that these posts will include ideas, suggestions and bits of
wisdom
from around the world and that their entry(s) may not work for you because
of differences you may not be aware of. These differences may be created
by
physical limitations of the equipment available to the individual in a
particular country (e.g., short arbors by the Brits), to major language
differences (e,g., the Aussies....;-).

No need to argue a point, simply suggest your alternative ideas and help
the
tip grow. It just may spawn a new method of work or another idea that no
one has tried before.

If the tip pertains to doing something with/to wood using a tool, powered
or
unpowered, then its acceptable. This includes all manner of woodworking,
from carving to woodturning and subcategories.

The prize...........

A wealth of archived information to draw upon that is now categorized
under
one subject line.

Pass it on...

Bob S.

Changing TS Blades - Easy Grip

When changing out a TS blade, take a quick grip clamp, clamp it very firmly
to the blade, turn the blade until the clamp hits the table, and you've now
got a great stopper that'll hold the blade in-place while you either loosen
or tighten the nut.

I like this one. Thanks

dave


"Creamy Goodness" creamy at agbf1942 dot com wrote in message
news:8d65f$40563119$41a9ca42$8782@allthenewsgroups .com...
Changing TS Blades - Easy Grip

When changing out a TS blade, take a quick grip clamp, clamp it very
firmly
to the blade, turn the blade until the clamp hits the table, and you've
now
got a great stopper that'll hold the blade in-place while you either
loosen
or tighten the nut.

ClemsonDave wrote:
I like this one. Thanks

AOL!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

When making rail and stile doors, cut your stile stock wide enough to get a
top and bottom stile. Make your end cuts first in the wide stock, then rip
the piece to get the top and bottom stile. The wide piece is much easier to
control than two narrower pieces.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com

but they do stay at google, forever.

randy

"codepath" wrote in message
...
Newsgroup Tip: Do not rely on a newsgroup as a data archive. News articles
expire on most news servers and are no longer available.


codepath




"Bob S." wrote in message
news
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children
can read these.

Suggested guidelines:

1. The "Tip" does not have to be your original thought - just one that
you
use and find useful but please make note of country of origin in the
post.

2. Multiple entries are encouraged.

3. If you have a variation on a specific tip or point, please follow the
original posting so it shows up in the archives correctly.

4. If you need to submit a graphic to clarify a tip, post it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking (a.b.p.w) using the same subject line
entry followed by a short description, i.e., Favorite Woodworking Tips
2004 - TS Alignment

5. Please no links to sites listing tips or information.

Realize that these posts will include ideas, suggestions and bits of
wisdom
from around the world and that their entry(s) may not work for you
because
of differences you may not be aware of. These differences may be
created
by
physical limitations of the equipment available to the individual in a
particular country (e.g., short arbors by the Brits), to major language
differences (e,g., the Aussies....;-).

No need to argue a point, simply suggest your alternative ideas and help
the
tip grow. It just may spawn a new method of work or another idea that
no
one has tried before.

If the tip pertains to doing something with/to wood using a tool,
powered
or
unpowered, then its acceptable. This includes all manner of
woodworking,
from carving to woodturning and subcategories.

The prize...........

A wealth of archived information to draw upon that is now categorized
under
one subject line.

Pass it on...

Bob S.

Bob S. wrote:
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children can read these.

I've started using a push block almost all the time on my router table. Not
only do I feel safer with my fingers 3" higher, but I find I'm controlling
the cuts better.

-- Mark

here's a few oldies but goodies.

if you are making a cut, and dont want the back side to rip out, you can use
a piece of scrap wood, but its easier to put duct or masking tape on the cut
line on the back side. if using a table saw, this would be the top. or you
can just put tape around the entire cut. voila. no more tear out.

whenever possible, bring the work to your hands, and not your hands to your
work. your back will thank you later.

get a piece of threaded stock that fits in a skateboard bearing. drill a
hole 1/2 way through a piece of wood to insert the bearing into, and a
smaller hole all the way through that the thread will go through. clamp that
piece to the table on your drill press and you can use the thread like a
lathe without destroying your drill press bearings. that lower bearing will
take some of the lateral load. if you really want to get tricky make a jig
with both a top and bottom bearing.

randy

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
Bob S. wrote:
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children can read these.

I've started using a push block almost all the time on my router table.
Not
only do I feel safer with my fingers 3" higher, but I find I'm controlling
the cuts better.

i have two friends with only 9 fingers due to router tables... damn skippy.

randy

xrongor wrote:

i have two friends with only 9 fingers due to router tables... damn
skippy.

I had a piece grab once (my dumb mistake!) and had the bit been 3/4" instead
of 1/2" I could have lost one too. It really scared me. I didn't use the
table for a couple months.

-- Mark

Bob S. wrote:
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children can read these.

Use the table saw guard & splitter whenever possible. In July 2003 I didn't
take the time to put them back on, had a kickback they probably would have
prevented, and still have the scars on my left hand. I was lucky. There is
no loss of function or feeling.

-- Mark

yep always wondered why I see google threads going back to early 90s. This
thread is a great idea

"xrongor" wrote in message
news:ELr5c.18126$po.212086@attbi_s52...
but they do stay at google, forever.

randy

"codepath" wrote in message
...
Newsgroup Tip: Do not rely on a newsgroup as a data archive. News
articles
expire on most news servers and are no longer available.


codepath




"Bob S." wrote in message
news
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children
can read these.

Suggested guidelines:

1. The "Tip" does not have to be your original thought - just one that
you
use and find useful but please make note of country of origin in the
post.

2. Multiple entries are encouraged.

3. If you have a variation on a specific tip or point, please follow
the
original posting so it shows up in the archives correctly.

4. If you need to submit a graphic to clarify a tip, post it to
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking (a.b.p.w) using the same subject
line
entry followed by a short description, i.e., Favorite Woodworking
Tips
2004 - TS Alignment

5. Please no links to sites listing tips or information.

Realize that these posts will include ideas, suggestions and bits of
wisdom
from around the world and that their entry(s) may not work for you
because
of differences you may not be aware of. These differences may be
created
by
physical limitations of the equipment available to the individual in a
particular country (e.g., short arbors by the Brits), to major
language
differences (e,g., the Aussies....;-).

No need to argue a point, simply suggest your alternative ideas and
help
the
tip grow. It just may spawn a new method of work or another idea that
no
one has tried before.

If the tip pertains to doing something with/to wood using a tool,
powered
or
unpowered, then its acceptable. This includes all manner of
woodworking,
from carving to woodturning and subcategories.

The prize...........

A wealth of archived information to draw upon that is now categorized
under
one subject line.

Pass it on...

Bob S.

Wood glue doesn't stick to cellophane tape. Use 2" package tape to line
cauls, handscrews, etc that may come in contact with glue squeeze out.

--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
Bob S. wrote:
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children can read these.

Use the table saw guard & splitter whenever possible. In July 2003 I
didn't
take the time to put them back on, had a kickback they probably would have
prevented, and still have the scars on my left hand. I was lucky. There
is
no loss of function or feeling.

-- Mark

Absolutely me too on push blocks or something to hold the work. It amazes me
some of the router books I have that show someone navigating a l 2" square
peice around a bit with only thir hands I used to do this when younger but
no longer...count 10

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
Bob S. wrote:
Calling for woodworkers of all persuasions to submit and share their
favorite woodworking tips. These will go down in history (archived) so
please keep them clean and civil so that your children and
grand-children can read these.

I've started using a push block almost all the time on my router table.
Not
only do I feel safer with my fingers 3" higher, but I find I'm controlling
the cuts better.

-- Mark

Thread snipped//////


One tip that I have to offer that really helps me out around the shop is a
simple thing that keeps my 18 vt Dewalt drill in reach yet out of the way.
What I did is to cut an 8" scrap of 2X4 and drill 1/4" holes through the
4" at about an inch in at both ends then I used a hole saw the size of the
chuck to cut a hole about two inches in at one end. I used all thread to
bolt the 2X4 to my work bench. Now I have a great little drill holder within
my reach.


Rich

My first thought was, "But then I wouldn't gouge my hands!"

: )

Tim

On 3/15/04 14:52, in article ,
"ClemsonDave" wrote:

I like this one. Thanks

dave


"Creamy Goodness" creamy at agbf1942 dot com wrote in message
news:8d65f$40563119$41a9ca42$8782@allthenewsgroups .com...
Changing TS Blades - Easy Grip

When changing out a TS blade, take a quick grip clamp, clamp it very
firmly
to the blade, turn the blade until the clamp hits the table, and you've
now
got a great stopper that'll hold the blade in-place while you either
loosen
or tighten the nut.

joey wrote:

yep always wondered why I see google threads going back to early 90s. This
thread is a great idea

Early '80s now. They got the whole DejaNews archive online, finally. You
can go back and see your first post, unless you've been around a REALLY
long time.

(My first post was in 1991 IIRC. At least I beat the teeming masses of
AOLers by a few years.)

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Mark Jerde wrote:

i have two friends with only 9 fingers due to router tables... damn
skippy.

I had a piece grab once (my dumb mistake!) and had the bit been 3/4"
instead
of 1/2" I could have lost one too. It really scared me. I didn't use the
table for a couple months.

Reminds me... Use a STARTING PIN on your router table. These should be
mandatory on all factory router tables.

My Crapsman table doesn't have one, and I had never even heard of the
concept until I read about it here. I had a piece get jerked out of my
hands quite violently, even though I was feeding it the correct way. I
still have all 10 fingers, but I almost had to change my shorts.

Speaking of Crapsman... Don't buy Crapsman routers or router tables.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

In article ELr5c.18126$po.212086@attbi_s52,
xrongor wrote:
but they do stay at google, forever.

randy

...snipped...

Yeah, at one time they said that about Altavista, too.




--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Tim Rohrer wrote:
My first thought was, "But then I wouldn't gouge my hands!"

)

Tim

On 3/15/04 14:52, in article ,
"ClemsonDave" wrote:

I like this one. Thanks

dave


"Creamy Goodness" creamy at agbf1942 dot com wrote in message
news:8d65f$40563119$41a9ca42$8782@allthenewsgroups .com...
Changing TS Blades - Easy Grip

When changing out a TS blade, take a quick grip clamp, clamp it
very firmly to the blade, turn the blade until the clamp hits the
table, and you've now got a great stopper that'll hold the blade
in-place while you either loosen or tighten the nut.


I actually thought of this is what amazes me. There is a device on the
market for holding the blade, looks like a 1/2 circle of plastic with
something on the inside to keep the blade from moving. but too hard. this
way you've also got both hands free to catch the arbor nut that keeps
falling directly into the dust colletion chute.

Impressive handsaw and it is inexpensive!!!

I've posted this tip before, so maybe you can find additional details in the
archive.

Make a conventional shaped handle and fit it to the "wrong end" of a
replacement blade for a Japanese pull saw. I like the 250mm and 300mm size
blades from Woodcraft. The replacement blades are about $8.00 to $12.00 - so
the experiment is "low risk".

Trace a conventional saw handle onto some scrap hardwood, cut it out and
roundover the edges where desired. Here is the tricky part - make a slit for
the blade (just like the conventional saw handle has). I used a dremel
cutoff blade in the drillpress and finished up with a hacksaw blade. Take
your time - you are making a tool that you will probably use for a long
time.

Now, fit the blade into the slot with the big end into the new handle. (This
is "backwards" from the normal operation of the Japanese pullsaw - you are
making a "pushsaw"). Find a good position for 3 small machine screws (I used
6-32 or 10-32). Use an old drill bit because this next step will ruin it.
The saw blade steel is hard but friction heat will anneal it. Using the
drill press run the drill through the new handle and the saw blade at the
same time. After you make the first hole, drop a screw in place to prevent
shifting. Countersink the holes to match the screws. After the three holes
are finished, use a dremel tool to embed the appropriate sized nuts. If some
of the blade extends into the finger hole of the handle, use a dremel tool
with a grindstone bit to make it all flush.

Use the same ruined drill bit to make a "hanging hole" at the end of the
sawblade. Deburr this hole with a dremel grindstone.

Using the saw takes a little practice. If you are experienced with a handsaw
you'll probably preferr the 250mm blade (it is thinner and a finer cut). The
300mm blade is thick enough that a beginner can learn proper saw control if
they pay attention. The blades are impressively sharp, cut quick and smooth
with a minimum kerf, and are easy to control after a little practice. They
crosscut like a dream but are slow on the ripcut.

I've been using mine for about 3 or 4 years and love it!!! It took a little
while to learn to saw with it and not flex the blade. You may ruin the first
blade (if you start with the 250mm blade) in the learning process - but
don't give up. I use the original cardboard blade package as a blade cover
to protect me from accidental cuts (brushing against the blade) and to
protect the saw teeth.

The saw is small, and you might think it is good for only "trim jobs" or
maybe dovetails - but the short stroke is not a handicap. I would not
hesitate to use this saw on long cuts. As a matter of fact, my normal saws
get very little use now (they are mostly reserved for visitors that I
wouldn't trust with my "good" saw).

Give it a try - you'll love it!!!

Lawrence Wasserman wrote:

but they do stay at google, forever.

Yeah, at one time they said that about Altavista, too.

It's a fair point. It mildly concerns me that so much of everything has
been moving to electronic media in the last few years. 50,000 years from
now our descendants won't have much in the way of useful artifacts to dig
up to learn about why our society collapsed into ruin.

But in the near term, I wouldn't worry about it. Before Google there was
DejaNews. If google tanks, someone else will likely pick up the archive
the way Google absorbed Deja. As long as we have electricity and
electronic media, we're good to go.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Keep a stock of 3/4" female threaded pipe joiners.
When you need some long clamps, join some shorter pipes together.
No need to keep 8 foot pipe around.

I assume that you've tried using pull-cut saws properly. Apart from not
binding, one of the nice things is that they won't obscure a layout line
on the face of a piece with tear-out.
I'm just having trouble seeing the advantage of a saw like that.
Typically it would be that push-cut saws are easier to apply force to,
but with a blade that thin binding makes it touchy to use. Plus, you
really should be able to let the saw do the cutting without forcing it
too much.
But. That's all theory - I have a spare replacement blade, so I might as
well try it.

Sanding tip I got from a magazine.

When making a box, after you cut the lid off, glue a full sheet of
sandpaper to a piece of 1/2" plywood, turn the box upside down and
move it back and forth over the sandpaper. It removes the saw blade
marks and evens up the edges. Do the same thing to the lid.

Larr

Try building something two steps beyond what you think your abilities are.

Be patient.

Build something for every member of your family.

Dave




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That is exactly the case. I tried using the saw in its normal pull
configuration but had two issues. 1 my cuts were hard to control and the cut
was seldom perpendicular to the faces. The saw seemed to wander on its own
accord - I didn't have control. 2 The straight handle was uncomfortable for
me (I think the pull action should be inline with my forearm). As a side
note, I have been working with wood off and on since the late sixties, I
managed the woodworking hobbyshop when I was stationed in Greece.

Both of these issues could be overcome with enough practice. I already know
how to control a handsaw in the push configuration - the only skill that
needed enhancement was keeping the line of force more closely aligned with
the saw blade. The saw is so sharp that it needs very little force but it
does need guidance to keep it perpendicular and along the intended cut line.
If you force the saw the way you might with a dull conventional push saw,
you will likely bend the blade. Take it easy, let the saw do the cutting,
you provide the guidance. When you crosscut that hard cocobolo plank so
quickly and easily, you will likely be a convert.

I'm on my third blade (they do dull after a while and I haven't figured out
how to "scarysharpen" them). The blades are cheap enough to consider them a
"consumable". I kept the old dull blades because I want to use the steel to
make a few knives.

My brother in-law is a carpenter (builds houses in southern Mississippi). He
saw me use the saw on one of his visits (I was cutting bloodwood if I recall
correctly). He was impressed and asked me to build him a saw like it. I told
him how to do it and he said he would. I never followed up to see if he
actually did make a saw.

On my "list of things to do", I want to build a beautiful saw handle for
this type of saw. You may have seen the carved "panther head saw", well I
want to carve the saw handle more exotically than that. Start with some
wildly figured cocobolo, carve it to fit my hand like those olymipc
freestyle pistols then carve a detailed image all over the remainder of the
saw handle. I haven't figured out exactly what to carve into it yet.


"Gordon Airporte" wrote in message
...
I assume that you've tried using pull-cut saws properly. Apart from not
binding, one of the nice things is that they won't obscure a layout line
on the face of a piece with tear-out.
I'm just having trouble seeing the advantage of a saw like that.
Typically it would be that push-cut saws are easier to apply force to,
but with a blade that thin binding makes it touchy to use. Plus, you
really should be able to let the saw do the cutting without forcing it
too much.
But. That's all theory - I have a spare replacement blade, so I might as
well try it.

Pounds on Wood wrote:
When making rail and stile doors, cut your stile stock wide enough to get a
top and bottom stile. Make your end cuts first in the wide stock, then rip
the piece to get the top and bottom stile. The wide piece is much easier to
control than two narrower pieces.

--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com


Bill;

This too is a gem. Thanks !

Jerry

Never measure when you can mark, and learn to use a story pole for
everything!

Richard

and learn to use a story pole for everything!

Richard

That holds true for know-it-alls that prefer to take
scale measurements from _ faxes _ .


Long story short: Many a year ago, boss says to make
laminated open shelf cabinet 24" high. Story pole
shows 32". Point out discrepancy to boss. Boss still
wants it made to 24". Unit is made to 24" high. Item
is installed at customer's business.

Ensuing dust up between customer and boss... end result:
customer gets what they ordered initially two days later.

--
Think thrice, measure twice and cut once.

Sanding is like paying taxes ... everyone has to do it, but it is
important to take steps to minimize it.

There is only one period and no underscores in the real email address.



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"Bob S." wrote in message

Use your hex shank drill/driver set in a brace. The hex shank fits
most alligator jaw chucks, and then you've got a "cordless" driver
with way more torque than a power drill. A ratcheted brace can get
into tighter places than a drill/driver.

All that, and it's QUIET for late-night woodDorking when the neighbors
would like to sleep.

O'Deen