I recently bought a Milwaulkee router, model or catelogue # 5625-20.
I don't have a router cabinet, though I've considered making or buying
one. I've discovered this set-up, router mounted under the right side
of the table saw extension table:
http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidder...HNQH7&id=13088

Is this a practical option for mounting a router? I have 2 Unisaws
with extension tables and if this is a reasonable option for router
placement, I may opt for this kind of mounting.

One extension table is 3/4" ply with formica top (rough cutting,
utility blade saw) and the other extension table is 1-1/2" solid wood
with formica top (fine, delicate and/or precision cutting WWII blade
saw). Both saws with Delta 50" Unifence. I would suspect the
Unifences are not recommended for router use. Is this correct or is
there a modification (sacrificial board?) that can be added to a
Unifence for use with a router? In the link, I see no separate fence
for the router. Also, which extension table might best be used for
the router? I'm thinking the 3/4".... I kinna don't like the idea of
cutting a hole in my big 1-1/2" thick extension table (4' W X 6' L).
* I haven't used the new router, yet, to know if it will rise far
enough to clear a 1-1/2" thick table top properly.

Thanks for any help.
Sonny

"Sonny" wrote:

I recently bought a Milwaulkee router, model or catelogue # 5625-20.
I don't have a router cabinet, though I've considered making or
buying
one.

Take a look at the one Norm did on the NYW.

It certainly filled all my needs.

Used a commercial plate with inserts for various diameter openings.

Have fun.

Lew

Sonny wrote:

One extension table is 3/4" ply with formica top (rough cutting,
utility blade saw) and the other extension table is 1-1/2" solid wood
with formica top (fine, delicate and/or precision cutting WWII blade
saw). Both saws with Delta 50" Unifence. I would suspect the
Unifences are not recommended for router use. Is this correct or is
there a modification (sacrificial board?) that can be added to a
Unifence for use with a router?

Instead of using a dedicated router table/cabinet, a lot of folks mount
their router on the TS extension and find it handy.

Basically it is a matter of personal choice.

There is no reason why you can't use your unifence for a router fence,
although an addition like Uni-T fence in the link makes it easier to do so:

http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm

or this:

http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/bigafence.html


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Nov 27, 5:39*pm, Sonny wrote:
I recently bought a Milwaulkee router, model or catelogue # 5625-20.
I don't have a router cabinet, though I've considered making or buying
one. *I've discovered this set-up, router mounted under the right side
of the table saw extension table:http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidder...7977&auction=L...

Is this a practical option for mounting a router? *I have 2 Unisaws
with extension tables and if this is a reasonable option for router
placement, I may opt for this kind of mounting.

One extension table is 3/4" ply with formica top (rough cutting,
utility blade saw) and the other extension table is 1-1/2" solid wood
with formica top (fine, delicate and/or precision cutting WWII blade
saw). *Both saws with Delta 50" Unifence. *I would suspect the
Unifences are not recommended for router use. *Is this correct or is
there a modification (sacrificial board?) that can be added to a
Unifence for use with a router? *In the link, I see no separate fence
for the router. *Also, which extension table might best be used for
the router? *I'm thinking the 3/4".... I kinna don't like the idea of
cutting a hole in my big 1-1/2" thick extension table (4' W X 6' L).
* I haven't used the new router, yet, to know if it will rise far
enough to clear a 1-1/2" thick table top properly.

Thanks for any help.
Sonny

Mounting it under 1-1/2" of material is going to seriously limit your
bit choices. There is no need for that much 'deck' to hold that
machine. Make a square hole with rounded corners with rabetted inside
edges which can hold a slab of 1/2" solid surface. Mount the router to
it.
If you make more than one insert, you can also make a blank one which
will give you a closed in extension top.
Slabs of Corian and such are not that hard to obtain from a
fabricator. Just ask for a couple of vanity bowl cut-outs.
A 12-pack of Erdinger Weiss will get you 2 or 3 at one fabrication
shop I know of..G

Sonny,

I got a router table from Rockler, mounted it on wheels, and added
an Incra fence thingee. I don't see how you can get along without
something like this. My dado blade is hardly used anymore. The Incra
fence gives repeatable adjustments.

Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.

Sonny, I forgot to mention that it frees up your table saw if you have
that set with a particular fence or miter setup. That way you can
make repeatable cuts on the table saw without re-setting it up. Hope
this helps.....

rich wrote:
Sonny, I forgot to mention that it frees up your table saw if you have
that set with a particular fence or miter setup. That way you can
make repeatable cuts on the table saw without re-setting it up. Hope
this helps.....

Don't look now, but the boy has TWO unisaws ... sounds like he could
spare one for a router setup.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

rich wrote:
Sonny,

I got a router table from Rockler, mounted it on wheels, and added
an Incra fence thingee. I don't see how you can get along without
something like this. My dado blade is hardly used anymore. The Incra
fence gives repeatable adjustments.

Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.


That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. :-)

What do you mean by remote?
I use a momentary foot switch for mine. I like the idea of it turning
off if something dangerous happens and I had to duck for cover.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
rich wrote:
Sonny,

I got a router table from Rockler, mounted it on wheels, and added
an Incra fence thingee. I don't see how you can get along without
something like this. My dado blade is hardly used anymore. The Incra
fence gives repeatable adjustments.

Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.


That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. :-)

Agreed. I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the table
saw. The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting the time it
takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't have to make multiple
passes if the cuts have any significant depth.

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Lots of good advice and tips. Thanks guys.

Several years ago, we ripped out all the Corian from my brother's
house. I saved it.... at least 50 sq ft of it. Multiple plates,
rather than inserts, sounds like an easy option.

Two 16" Uni-T fences with UHMW fence face will be ordered soon. Wish
they'd offer 24" lengths.

A "remote" switch was concerned, also. I didn't know what a momentary
foot switch is, but I see Woodcraft has one for $20.... looks
perfect! I like the push-button type action, rather than a toggle
type mechanism.

On another note, my nephew and I recently installed new decking
(double layered) and re-shingled half the shop roof.... about 900 sq
ft (inclusive of a 30' X 12' backside overhang). Little by little,
it's getting completed. *Decking material - free, salvaged from
construction work sites, along with lots of framing stock. Shingles
(architectural) - $7 a bundle from Lowes' "damaged" department.

Sonny

On Nov 28, 3:20*pm, Steve Turner
wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
rich wrote:
Sonny,

* *I got a router table from Rockler, mounted it on wheels, and added
an Incra fence thingee. *I don't see how you can get along without
something like this. *My dado blade is hardly used anymore. *The Incra
fence gives repeatable adjustments.

* *Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.

That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. * :-)

Agreed. *I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the table
saw. *The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting the time it
takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't have to make multiple
passes if the cuts have any significant depth.


I find it is more accurate, and easier to set up, with fewer chances
of error to use a dado stack.
Cutting across tall bookshelf sides requires a decent sled.
When making dados like that, a RAS is probably the most useful....but
ONLY for that job. (I throughly hate those things.)
The big advantage of a RAS, is that material thickness can vary
without it cause grief when running a whole library full of shelves.
A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.

Steve Turner wrote:
That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. :-)

Agreed. I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the
table saw. The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting
the time it takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't
have to make multiple passes if the cuts have any significant depth.


I'd like to do the math on how much blade there is to cut with the dado
vs router bit.

Two blades at 24k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.
vs.
24(?) teeth at 5k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Robatoy wrote:
A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.


Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.


Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:17:15 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Steve Turner wrote:
That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. :-)

Agreed. I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the
table saw. The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting
the time it takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't
have to make multiple passes if the cuts have any significant depth.


I'd like to do the math on how much blade there is to cut with the dado
vs router bit.

Two blades at 24k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.
vs.
24(?) teeth at 5k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.

What size is the dust and how efficient is the removal?

On Nov 28, 6:17*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Steve Turner wrote:
That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. * :-)

Agreed. *I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the
table saw. *The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting
the time it takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't
have to make multiple passes if the cuts have any significant depth.

I'd like to do the math on how much blade there is to cut with the dado
vs router bit.

Two blades at 24k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.
vs.
24(?) teeth at 5k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Tipspeed at 3500 rpm of an 8" stack...vs a dinky 3/4"(?) routerbit at
22K

krw wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.

Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

Sorry, I don't understand.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"krw" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:17:15 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Steve Turner wrote:
That's funny.
Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so
I don't have to use the router. :-)

Agreed. I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the
table saw. The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting
the time it takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't
have to make multiple passes if the cuts have any significant depth.


I'd like to do the math on how much blade there is to cut with the dado
vs router bit.

Two blades at 24k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.
vs.
24(?) teeth at 5k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.

What size is the dust and how efficient is the removal?


The dado stack is more efficient. No contest.

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 21:24:33 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Robatoy wrote:
A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.

Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

Sorry, I don't understand.

If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

krw wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 21:24:33 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


krw wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


Robatoy wrote:

A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.


Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

Sorry, I don't understand.


If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if
you use a square/rectangular base.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 06:33:38 -0500, Nova wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 21:24:33 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


krw wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


Robatoy wrote:

A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.


Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

Sorry, I don't understand.


If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if
you use a square/rectangular base.

One straightedge, as long as the bit is the same diameter as the dado,
*IF* you can keep the router base perfectly tight against it. That's
not what he was suggesting though. The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want to
understand the limitations.

"krw" wrote:

The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want
to
understand the limitations.

The only way to eliminate the possibility of a "gotcha" is to use an
undersized bit (more than 50% of final dado)and two straight edges
straddling the dado.
Make a pass each direction cutting first one edge then the other.

Lew

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 09:11:22 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"krw" wrote:

The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want
to
understand the limitations.

The only way to eliminate the possibility of a "gotcha" is to use an
undersized bit (more than 50% of final dado)and two straight edges
straddling the dado.
Make a pass each direction cutting first one edge then the other.

Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block, though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end of
the board.

krw" wrote:


Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block,
though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end
of
the board.

And?

Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the
cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still
supported by the board.

No harm, no foul.

Lew

krw wrote:
With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.
How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?
Sorry, I don't understand.

If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

Ok, I think I get it now. I'm not talking about using two, while you're
making the cut. Just one.

I'm saying you can use two, to help space out multiple, equally spaced
dadoes.
If you're putting fixed shelves 12" apart, you make a spacer/spacers cut
12".
Place first clamp and make first dado cut.
Leave first clamp on.
Insert spacer/spacers and apply second clamp against spacer.
Cut second dado.
Leap frog clamps to continue.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 10:18:35 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

krw" wrote:


Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block,
though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end
of
the board.

And?

Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the
cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still
supported by the board.

No harm, no foul.

No, I'm not talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the
edge.

krw wrote:
Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if
you use a square/rectangular base.

One straightedge, as long as the bit is the same diameter as the dado,
*IF* you can keep the router base perfectly tight against it. That's
not what he was suggesting though. The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want to
understand the limitations.

What's the flaw?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 12:22:55 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.
How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?
Sorry, I don't understand.

If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

Ok, I think I get it now. I'm not talking about using two, while you're
making the cut. Just one.

I'm saying you can use two, to help space out multiple, equally spaced
dadoes.
If you're putting fixed shelves 12" apart, you make a spacer/spacers cut
12".
Place first clamp and make first dado cut.
Leave first clamp on.
Insert spacer/spacers and apply second clamp against spacer.
Cut second dado.
Leap frog clamps to continue.

Ah, OK, there's the misunderstanding. I thought you were using the
second straightedge and block to define the width of the dado. A good
idea, except for the edge effect. I like my routers (PC690 w/"D"
handle and Bosch Palm) but they're not good at hogging out a 3/4"
dados in one pass.

krw wrote:
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 10:18:35 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

krw" wrote:

Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block,
though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end
of
the board.
And?

Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the
cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still
supported by the board.

No harm, no foul.

No, I'm not talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the
edge.

Isn't a rabbet, by definition, at the edge of the stock?

If not, it *is* a dado, no?

If the rabbet is 2" from the edge, it is a dado....
unless you're saying it's a 2" long rabbet.....
....which would probably make it a tenon. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 12:59:44 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if
you use a square/rectangular base.

One straightedge, as long as the bit is the same diameter as the dado,
*IF* you can keep the router base perfectly tight against it. That's
not what he was suggesting though. The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want to
understand the limitations.

What's the flaw?

A misunderstanding of your technique? See my 1:00 post.

krw wrote:
Ah, OK, there's the misunderstanding. I thought you were using the
second straightedge and block to define the width of the dado. A good
idea, except for the edge effect. I like my routers (PC690 w/"D"
handle and Bosch Palm) but they're not good at hogging out a 3/4"
dados in one pass.

Cool, we're both seeing oranges, now. :-)

However, I've seen the technique using two clamps to determine the width
of a dado, too.

And yeah, you usually want to make a few passes, it they're deep.
Using a bit that ejects sawdust rather than just push it, helps too.

Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado
being much better. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 13:06:25 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 10:18:35 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

krw" wrote:

Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block,
though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end
of
the board.
And?

Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the
cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still
supported by the board.

No harm, no foul.

No, I'm not talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the
edge.

Isn't a rabbet, by definition, at the edge of the stock?

IIRC, technically a rabbet is with the grain too, but I could be
mistaken.

If not, it *is* a dado, no?

If the rabbet is 2" from the edge, it is a dado....

Read the paragraph again.

unless you're saying it's a 2" long rabbet.....
...which would probably make it a tenon. :-)

No, I said; "I'm *NOT* talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2"
from the edge."

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 13:10:57 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
Ah, OK, there's the misunderstanding. I thought you were using the
second straightedge and block to define the width of the dado. A good
idea, except for the edge effect. I like my routers (PC690 w/"D"
handle and Bosch Palm) but they're not good at hogging out a 3/4"
dados in one pass.

Cool, we're both seeing oranges, now. :-)

Yep. ;-) Sorry for any confusion.

However, I've seen the technique using two clamps to determine the width
of a dado, too.

I've built jigs to do this but never thought of using two clamps. Doh!

And yeah, you usually want to make a few passes, it they're deep.
Using a bit that ejects sawdust rather than just push it, helps too.

I just bought an up-spiral bit for use in my table. I'll likely buy a
few more over the next few months. Unfortunately we're getting close
to the winter no-woodworking season. :-(

Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado
being much better. :-)

Now that I have a table saw, sure. I still tend to use a router for
large panels. I'm not very good at controlling sheets of stuff on the
table saw. Moving the tool is easier.

"krw" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 06:33:38 -0500, Nova wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 21:24:33 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


krw wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:21:29 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


Robatoy wrote:

A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a
gantry.


Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.

With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they
go even faster.

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?

Sorry, I don't understand.


If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the
pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a
board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I
don't understand what you're doing.

Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if
you use a square/rectangular base.

One straightedge, as long as the bit is the same diameter as the dado,
*IF* you can keep the router base perfectly tight against it. That's
not what he was suggesting though. The technique Mike suggested is
interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I
like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want to
understand the limitations.



http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/adjustable-dado-jig/

Max

krw wrote:
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 13:06:25 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 10:18:35 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

krw" wrote:

Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block,
though).
I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board,
within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end
of
the board.
And?

Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the
cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still
supported by the board.

No harm, no foul.
No, I'm not talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the
edge.
Isn't a rabbet, by definition, at the edge of the stock?

IIRC, technically a rabbet is with the grain too, but I could be
mistaken.

If not, it *is* a dado, no?

If the rabbet is 2" from the edge, it is a dado....

Read the paragraph again.

unless you're saying it's a 2" long rabbet.....
...which would probably make it a tenon. :-)

No, I said; "I'm *NOT* talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2"
from the edge."


Gotcha. brainfart

In any case, and even though it wasn't the original topic, like another
guy wrote, a rectangular base allows a router to "hang off" the edge
quite a bit farther than a round one.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

krw wrote:
Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado
being much better. :-)

Now that I have a table saw, sure. I still tend to use a router for
large panels. I'm not very good at controlling sheets of stuff on the
table saw. Moving the tool is easier.


Yeah, it all depends on your tools and what you're comfortable with.
On my last TS, I would never have even considered cutting dadoes, let
alone on a full sheet.
On my new-to-me TS with the out-feed table I recently completed, I can't
wait to try it. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:29:04 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

krw wrote:
Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado
being much better. :-)

Now that I have a table saw, sure. I still tend to use a router for
large panels. I'm not very good at controlling sheets of stuff on the
table saw. Moving the tool is easier.


Yeah, it all depends on your tools and what you're comfortable with.
On my last TS, I would never have even considered cutting dadoes, let
alone on a full sheet.
On my new-to-me TS with the out-feed table I recently completed, I can't
wait to try it. :-)

I have a Unisaw with 50" fence with a roller stand for outfeed. I
just don't feel comfortable humping something that awkward around
alone though.

On Nov 28, 12:20*pm, rich wrote:

* *Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.

I did that as well, but with a slight variation. I used a foot switch
(HFT $9.99) and a shorting plug. I built in an electrical box with a
duplex outlet and a three-way switch. One of the outlets (A) is
switched betwen the three-way and the power and the other (B) is wired
in series with the other duplex outlet.

The cheap HFT foot switch is plugged into "B" and the shorting plug is
plugged into the foot switch. when the three way is in the "up"
position, outlet "A" is energized and anything plugged into it gets
power.

When the three-way is in the down position, the power to "A" runs
through whatever is connected to "B" (the foot switch) and I can start
and stop "whatever is plugged into "A" (the outer) using th efoot
switch.

Since I did not re-wired the foot switch itself, I can unplug it,
removed the shorting plug and plug a tool into it and use it as
designed/intended.

On Nov 30, 9:19*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Nov 28, 12:20*pm, rich wrote:

* *Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.

I did that as well, but with a slight variation. I used a foot switch
(HFT $9.99) and a shorting plug. I built in an electrical box with a
duplex outlet and a three-way switch. One of the outlets (A) is
switched betwen the three-way and the power and the other (B) is wired
in series with the other duplex outlet.

The cheap HFT foot switch is plugged into "B" and the shorting plug is
plugged into the foot switch. *when the three way is in the "up"
position, outlet "A" is energized and anything plugged into it gets
power.

When the three-way is in the down position, the power to "A" runs
through whatever is connected to "B" (the foot switch) and I can start
and stop "whatever is plugged into "A" (the outer) using th efoot
switch.

Since I did not re-wired the foot switch itself, I can unplug it,
removed the shorting plug and plug a tool into it and use it as
designed/intended.

This smacks of a "suicide cord"; dangerous as hell.

On Nov 29, 2:09*pm, krw wrote:
On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 13:10:57 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:


Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado
being much better. *:-)

Now that I have a table saw, sure. *I still tend to use a router for
large panels. *I'm not very good at controlling sheets of stuff on the
table saw. *Moving the tool is easier.

Which is why another post was talking about a radial arm saw with
a dado stack; somewhat scary, of course, but much easier.
Small RAS don't have the right guards for a dado, that's a MAJOR
reason to buy a big 'un.