HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
(2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.
If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep in
mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a little
finesse, many jobs can be made easier.

I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments (drill
press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are indispensible.

Ed

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...


"Bill" wrote in message
...

HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
(2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill



If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep
in mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a
little finesse, many jobs can be made easier.

I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
(drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
indispensible.

Ed

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 22:17:11 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:


HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

....well, *my* Dremel broke after a couple of years...and maybe two
hours of use. I don't see how you can go wrong for 16 bux...heck, I'm
on the way...

cg

I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
(drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
indispensible.

I have the Craftsman knock off of the RotoZip..sort of like a Dremel on HGH.
1/4" collet but I have 2-3 versions of the 1/4 to 1/8" adapter to take the
1/8" standard Dremel mandrels.
Comes in handy often especially with the 2" cut off discs. I found the
standard Dremel tools too wimpy

You probably already figured out that I abbreviate Harbor Freight as HB.
I've done it before
and I can't explain why. Probably should be HF.



"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...


"Bill" wrote in message
...

HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
(2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill



If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep
in mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a
little finesse, many jobs can be made easier.

I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
(drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
indispensible.

Ed

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
use every 5 to 7 years.

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

I'd go for anything *but* Dremel.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the
like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.

If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
grinder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47869.

It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works like a
Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.

Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever
unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.

With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. They will
occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.

On Nov 27, 3:17*am, "Bill" wrote:
You probably already figured out that I abbreviate Harbor Freight as HB.
I've done it before
and I can't explain why. *Probably should be HF.


Thanks for clearing that up, Bill, here I thought you were talking
about Home Bepot.
..
..
:-)

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the
like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.

If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
grinder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47869.

It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works like a
Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.

Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever
unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.

With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. They will
occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.

WARNING!

The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.

Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.

On Nov 27, 8:42*am, wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"





wrote:
Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). *It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. *Although I do not have a specific use
in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: *(1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the
like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.

If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
grinder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47869..

It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
accessories like the router base and whatnot. *Using it, *it works like a
Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.

Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever
unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.

With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. *They will
occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.

WARNING!

The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.

Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.

Very good advice. Thanks for that.

r

wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of
different tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a
specific use in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in
handy for smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power
carving or the like you seldom use but when you do use it you're
glad that you have it.

If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro
die grinder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47869.

It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works
like a Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.

Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you
forever unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.

With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield.
They will occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want
one in your eye.

WARNING!

The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.

Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.

I thought about putting in that warning, but the safety equipment is the
same regardless, and in practical experience I haven't had any Dremel
accessories come apart with it. In any case the small diameter limits the
velocity of the bits that come apart. I used to live in holy terror of
Dremel bits attacking me but it turned out to be pretty much a non-issue.

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
use every 5 to 7 years.

I cut threaded rod more often than that. ;-) I burned up two of them
(and fifteen of the carbide bits :-() removing grout from the bathroom
walls in the last house. I wish there were an HF in town. $20 beats
$75, twice.

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 00:44:27 -0700, "Rudy"
wrote:

I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
(drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
indispensible.

I have the Craftsman knock off of the RotoZip..sort of like a Dremel on HGH.
1/4" collet but I have 2-3 versions of the 1/4 to 1/8" adapter to take the
1/8" standard Dremel mandrels.
Comes in handy often especially with the 2" cut off discs. I found the
standard Dremel tools too wimpy

I have a cordless RotoZip too. It's great for cutting holes in
sheetrock and I've used the circle cutter a number of times. It
didn't like the Hardi-backer dist much though. The bearings are
pretty well shot. It looks like the Milti* tools are better at the
things I use the RotoZip for so it'll likely not be replaced.

At that price, go for it. When I bought my Craftsman version of the
Dremel years ago I had no specific purpose for one. But it keeps
getting dug out of the tool box for small grinding, sanding,
polishing, etc. jobs.

If this one craps out in a year or two, you'll know by then if you
need a Dremel.

RonB

HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.
What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
Bill

I've had my cordless Dremel 7 years and corded 20 years. Works just
fine for everything I've thrown at it so far. Used the cordless
earlier this year to wire up a friend's house for surround sound and
networking. I have the drill press stand that I use for my scroll saw
projects and find more uses for it all the time. The only thing I
haven't liked is the sharpening attachment. It works "ok" to sharpen
but takes longer due to it's smaller side. I've used it on the mower a
couple of times but find it faster to use a regular grinder.

I also have a Craftsman roto-tool with a box full of attachments. It's
been used a few times but none of the attachments and the diamond
cutting wheel was not cheap. It's considerably heavier and larger than
a Dremel making it awkward to use for some jobs. Compared to the
Dremel, it gets used maybe 1 in 20 times. Maybe someday I'll try it's
plunge router attachment.

`Casper

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 06:12:26 -0500, the infamous "dadiOH"
scrawled the following:

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

I'd go for anything *but* Dremel.

I've only used it a few times, but the $5 (yes, five bucks on sale)
rotary tool kit from HF has worked fine for me...for tiny stuff. Those
and Dremels are gutless little things. http://fwd4.me/646

--
Q: How many climate scientists does it take to change a light bulb?

A: None. There's a consensus that it's going to change, so they've
decided to keep us in the dark.

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill


I was given a cordless Dremel some years ago. The battery charge would
last for a few minutes and then require two hours to charge. Then I
bought one of the cheapo HF models but the power output was miserable.
Finally ended up with a Sears corded model (on sale with no bits or
attachments) and use it with the previous collections of bits. Works fine.
mahalo,
jo4hn

"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go
a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a drywall
repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)" to make
a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the store!

Bill

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use
a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use
a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.

....or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional
use
a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)



That was actually the other item I brought to the register with me--but I
decided
not to get it! When I described what I wanted to do, at first he suggested
a hacksaw blade,
and then he mentioned the rotary tool.

Bill

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If there's
an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel
is a much more satisfactory tool.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's
an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or
Dremel
is a much more satisfactory tool.


It all kind of boils down to "right tool for the right job". A dremel isn't
going to rip an 8' piece of plywood but OTOH your circular saw isn't going
to shape an intricate piece of maple inlay for that mahogany table you just
made.

Ed

Dave Balderstone wrote:


Yeah. I bought a Rotozip a couple of years ago and after having to
clean the dust from an entire room (instead of directly under the cut)
after making a few cuts in drywall, I put it back on the shelf.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to sell that POS.

djb

When equipped with the trammel jig they do work nice for cutting round
holes for recessed light fixtures.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If there's
an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel
is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

cg

"Bill" wrote in message
...

HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
(2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill
Bill. I have a Dremal that replaced a Sears POS. Use it maybe 10 times a
week. Bought about 10 years ago. The most use is with diamond disks bought
from HF. Works great. Also have a RotoZip that I use as a trim router and
fancy edges. A lot handier on small items than my PC router. So I am
satisfied with both items. WW

It's only a value if you need it. But HFT does not sell the 1/8" router
type bits, that I was ever able to find. I had to order some from Ebay.
Else the cost was ridicules to get bits from Sears, HD, Anderson's or
Lowe's.

However, the cordless dremelesque rotary tool I bought at HFT and the
Shopsmith I bought at Anderson's (regional place?) both fit on the
Dremel attachments.

Mike in Ohio

Bill wrote:
HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.

What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?

Bill

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

....and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?

....OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
outside of the box, and run the thing around. This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...

cg

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?

...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
outside of the box, and run the thing around.

Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.

This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...

Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
Buggylugging any sheet goods.

it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...

I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?


...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
outside of the box, and run the thing around.

Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.


....hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...

This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...

Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
Buggylugging any sheet goods.

it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...

I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.


....to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
the less stuff I seem to need!

cg

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be
surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets
about ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier
about a drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even
left the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a
Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get
it done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a
bench. If there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll
find that the Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory
tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em
on the spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the
saw and knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the
rotozip work you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or
the electrician gets ****ed)...marking and registering are the
bugbears for most, but after awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had
a helper and it works fine for me.

...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?


...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and
the outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet
tight to the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's
just to the outside of the box, and run the thing around.

Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside
of the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.


...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...

This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...

Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are
better Buggylugging any sheet goods.

it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the
verticals then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my
pocket saw. Not intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I
realize that there are as many ways of doing things as there are
people on the planet, I just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and
years ago...

I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.


...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
the less stuff I seem to need!

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.


cg

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.

As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.

Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.

As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.

Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.

The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
either.

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:59:46 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.

As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.

Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.

The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
either.

Yes, I'd think that would be the perfect tool for "old work". Hanging
drywall is where the RotoZip is supposed to shine. The idea is that
the bit follows the *outside* of the box. It takes some practice but
not hard.

wrote:
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.
As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.

Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.

The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
either.

There's little reason to ever use a saw or roto-tool on drywall -- a
drywall knife scores the paper and one then breaks it w/o the dust. A
cutout is the one place but even there an 'X' and a tap does the trick
after the outline and if one has a template for the outline that also is
quick.

--

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:34:13 -0800, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Charlie Groh wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill


I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.


While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
drywall repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
the store!

That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
bit will do the job--just take your time.

...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
done in seconds. ;0)

That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.

I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
****ed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...

Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.

...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?


...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
outside of the box, and run the thing around.

Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.


...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...

The pilot "edge" on the bit has nothing to nick the wires with and the
wires should be pushed back in the box. Are you sure you were using
the right bit?

This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...

Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
Buggylugging any sheet goods.

it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...

I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.


...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
the less stuff I seem to need!

Well, I'm not a sheetrocker (I'd have to kill myself) and even use
screws to hang what little I do. ;-) Not even RotoZip pretends that
pros use RotoZips.