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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
Having never seen one before, I bought a (MasterForce) "Rub Brick"
(6"x3"x1", $9.99 at Menards) thinking it may help to clean up my concrete garage floor which is to be my workshop floor. I "applied it to about 6 square feet in an inconspicuous area using also a bucket of water and a towel. It provides decent exercise. I may try using it to smooth some Quikrete repairs someone else did in the past--actually, I tried it in one spot and the result looked pretty good (not sure if I weakened the repair, but I'll be mixing some Quikrete, sand and vinyl, in the spring anyway.). I am thinking now that I may work around the edges (and the water softener, etc) with the plan of bringing in an electric concrete grinder in the spring to do the rest of the floor. I think the rub brick may be giving me a good idea of what I might expect from the concrete grinder (true?). Don't they use the same sort of stone (although I know "diamond" is available for the powered units)??? I noticed in the last few minutes, online, that the tool is often used to help prepare concrete for tiling. Is there anything inappropriate with the way I am using it? P.S. I wore a dust mask, but, once I started using water to help get the dust out of the brick, I don't think there was much need. Should I be concerned about how flat the cutting stone stays (I'm mostly only taking off paint, grime, etc.--that is, I'm not cutting deep)? I am probably doing things the hard way, no? Thanks! Bill |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
On Oct 12, 8:34*pm, "Bill" wrote:
snip of stuff about rub bricks" *Should I be concerned about how flat the cutting stone stays (I'm mostly only taking off paint, grime, etc.--that is, I'm not cutting deep)? I am probably doing things the hard way, no? Yes. :-) I'd use a pressure washer to remove the paint & grime. Then rub the concrete if you still need to. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
"Luigi Zanasi" wrote in message ... On Oct 12, 8:34 pm, "Bill" wrote: snip of stuff about rub bricks" Should I be concerned about how flat the cutting stone stays (I'm mostly only taking off paint, grime, etc.--that is, I'm not cutting deep)? I am probably doing things the hard way, no? Yes. :-) I'd use a pressure washer to remove the paint & grime. Then rub the concrete if you still need to. Thank you for your reply Luigi. I have never used a pressure washer, but I am surprised to hear that they are able to remove paint from concrete (which is very porous). I am assuming that by grinding, I am providing an epoxy covering a really good surface to adhere to. I am also concerned about what a pressure washer might do to my treated and untreated wallboards. A related personal issue is that I cannot tolerate being around fumes like ammonia (which I think may be an ingredient in that approach). 37 years of grime from autos, a boat, welding, etc. You can probably visualize the picture. I covered the floor with newspapers the first day I moved in to avoid any of it being tracked into the house which is full of light carpet... Even seeing just some of the floor get cleaner tonight was satisfying (I am almost able to see the light at the end of the tunnel..). Up to now, it's been all talk! Regards, Bill |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
"Bill" wrote: I have never used a pressure washer, but I am surprised to hear that they are able to remove paint from concrete (which is very porous). A 5,000 PSIG washer will clean your concrete slick and claen, no soap or cleaner req'd. If you get careless, it will blow your drywall off the wall. You don't want to go there. Anything less than 3,000 PSIG is little more than a toy. BTDT. Lew |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
On Oct 12, 10:21*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Bill" *wrote: I have never used a pressure washer, but I am surprised to hear that they are able to remove paint from concrete (which is very porous). A 5,000 PSIG washer will clean your concrete slick and clean, no soap or cleaner req'd. If you get careless, it will blow your drywall off the wall. You don't want to go there. Anything less than 3,000 PSIG is little more than a toy. BTDT. IME, even the lower pressure ones work OK, they just take longer. But go rent a good one, cover your drywall with plastic & go for it. Like Lew said, no soap or other stuff needed, just water. And it doesn't use all that much, so you don't need to expect a flood. After that, Lew will direct you to what zero-emission/no-smell/ hypoallergenic epoxy you could use on the floor. :-) Luigi |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Rub Brick
On Oct 13, 1:38*am, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
IME, even the lower pressure ones work OK, they just take longer. But go rent a good one, cover your drywall with plastic & go for it. Like Lew said, no soap or other stuff needed, just water. And it doesn't use all that much, so you don't need to expect a flood. I'd still cover the walls with plastic and tape down the edges - there is overspray, and point the spray out the garage doors. A push broom will help with moving the water and paint chips out the door when necessary. After that, Lew will direct you to what zero-emission/no-smell/ hypoallergenic epoxy you could use on the floor. :-) Do you mean the self-applying one or the glow-in-the-dark? R |
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