I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

I've talked to a contractor buddy that uses several small portable
compressors often, and he tells me that this is normal - not to worry
about it. To me, it seems wrong. I can see if the pressure dropped
down a bit over time, but to completely empty in 2 days?

So, what is a reasonable expectation for a 60 gal compressor holding
pressure?

The tank has a big sticker claiming that it includes on site warranty
service from the manufacturer, should I try to take them up on their
offer?

Does it leak if you disconnect all the hoses?

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

I've talked to a contractor buddy that uses several small portable
compressors often, and he tells me that this is normal - not to worry
about it. To me, it seems wrong. I can see if the pressure dropped
down a bit over time, but to completely empty in 2 days?

So, what is a reasonable expectation for a 60 gal compressor holding
pressure?

The tank has a big sticker claiming that it includes on site warranty
service from the manufacturer, should I try to take them up on their
offer?

Mine does not lead at all - ever. I would bet it's in your fittings.
Should be easy to find at that rate of leakage.

--

-Mike-

On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 09:56:43 -0700 (PDT), Mike wrote:

within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

Obviously.

I notice zero leakage on my 60 gal compressor so I'll come down on the
side of your situation being abnormal. Before getting onsite warranty
service, I'd first try to identify the source of the leak. Use some
leak test fluid, either commercial or a homemade solution of soapy
water in a spray bottle, and check each joint in the system, both on
and around the compressor tank and any piping runs.

Unless you had the system commercially installed, and the warranty is
from the installer, I doubt the compressor/tank warranty will cover
leaks in the piping.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Mike wrote:
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

I've talked to a contractor buddy that uses several small portable
compressors often, and he tells me that this is normal - not to worry
about it. To me, it seems wrong. I can see if the pressure dropped
down a bit over time, but to completely empty in 2 days?

So, what is a reasonable expectation for a 60 gal compressor holding
pressure?

The tank has a big sticker claiming that it includes on site warranty
service from the manufacturer, should I try to take them up on their
offer?

The first thing coming out of my compressor is a ball and socket cutoff
valve, with the oil/water extractor hanging off of that, followed by the
quick release hose fitting. If I throw the cutoff value to the "off"
position (which I always do when I'm not using it) my compressor will
hold that tank of air until hell freezes over. If not, it will fire up
about once a day (usually at 2:00am in the morning), particularly if a
hose is connected. Those quick-release fittings are not the most
air-tight contraptions on the planet...

--
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(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Use some soapy water in a squirt bottle. Pump up to top pressure.
Start spraying on all threaded conections into tank. Then work your
way down stream on any thing like the regulater connections, etc. You
should see small bubbles wherever you have a leak. Then dissasemble
and add teflon tape or even better plumbers pipe dope and try to fix
it like that.

Mine holds forever unless I leave a gun on the end of a connected
hose.

On Jun 9, 9:56*am, Mike wrote:
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

I've talked to a contractor buddy that uses several small portable
compressors often, and he tells me that this is normal - not to worry
about it. To me, it seems wrong. I can see if the pressure dropped
down a bit over time, but to completely empty in 2 days?

So, what is a reasonable expectation for a 60 gal compressor holding
pressure?

The tank has a big sticker claiming that it includes on site warranty
service from the manufacturer, should I try to take them up on their
offer?

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...


The first thing coming out of my compressor is a ball and socket cutoff
valve, with the oil/water extractor hanging off of that, followed by the
quick release hose fitting. If I throw the cutoff value to the "off"
position (which I always do when I'm not using it) my compressor will hold
that tank of air until hell freezes over. If not, it will fire up about
once a day (usually at 2:00am in the morning), particularly if a hose is
connected. Those quick-release fittings are not the most air-tight
contraptions on the planet...


Good connectors are much - much better than the cheap stuff you find at Home
Depot (CH), or Harbor Freight. Don't scrimp on connectors, and expect to
have to replace even the good ones every couple/few years, depending on the
amount of use.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...

The first thing coming out of my compressor is a ball and socket cutoff
valve, with the oil/water extractor hanging off of that, followed by the
quick release hose fitting. If I throw the cutoff value to the "off"
position (which I always do when I'm not using it) my compressor will hold
that tank of air until hell freezes over. If not, it will fire up about
once a day (usually at 2:00am in the morning), particularly if a hose is
connected. Those quick-release fittings are not the most air-tight
contraptions on the planet...


Good connectors are much - much better than the cheap stuff you find at Home
Depot (CH), or Harbor Freight. Don't scrimp on connectors, and expect to
have to replace even the good ones every couple/few years, depending on the
amount of use.

I'm sure, but since I'm not constantly relying on my compressor all day
every day I just throw the cutoff valve and don't much worry about it.

--
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sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
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"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...

The first thing coming out of my compressor is a ball and socket cutoff
valve, with the oil/water extractor hanging off of that, followed by the
quick release hose fitting. If I throw the cutoff value to the "off"
position (which I always do when I'm not using it) my compressor will
hold that tank of air until hell freezes over. If not, it will fire up
about once a day (usually at 2:00am in the morning), particularly if a
hose is connected. Those quick-release fittings are not the most
air-tight contraptions on the planet...


Good connectors are much - much better than the cheap stuff you find at
Home Depot (CH), or Harbor Freight. Don't scrimp on connectors, and
expect to have to replace even the good ones every couple/few years,
depending on the amount of use.

I'm sure, but since I'm not constantly relying on my compressor all day
every day I just throw the cutoff valve and don't much worry about it.


Sorry - I was trying to add to your comment and not point out a deficiency.

--

-Mike-

"Mike" wrote in message ..
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

Can't comment on your compressor setup, but I do know that rubber tires leak
air over a period of time. For a start, you might want to disconnect all
hoses and fittings to see if there's still leakage. If there isn't, then
you'll have a specific area to examine.

Because it is so new, have you checked the drain on the bottom?
Typically these not closed tight on new tanks. Being located on the bottom,
you may have not noticed it or forgotten to tighten it down.



"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Mike" wrote in message ..
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

Can't comment on your compressor setup, but I do know that rubber tires
leak
air over a period of time. For a start, you might want to disconnect all
hoses and fittings to see if there's still leakage. If there isn't, then
you'll have a specific area to examine.

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Mike Marlow wrote:
Good connectors are much - much better than the cheap stuff you find at
Home Depot (CH), or Harbor Freight. Don't scrimp on connectors, and
expect to have to replace even the good ones every couple/few years,
depending on the amount of use.
I'm sure, but since I'm not constantly relying on my compressor all day
every day I just throw the cutoff valve and don't much worry about it.


Sorry - I was trying to add to your comment and not point out a deficiency.

No worries. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
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I guess I should have given more information about my setup... Like a
previous poster, I have a ball valve shutoff coming straight out of
the outlet from the tank. I keep that closed unless I'm using the air.
I have a bunch of commercial leak detect stuff at work, think it's
called 'snoop' - I'll bring a bottle home and give it a try.

With the ball valve coming straight off of the tank, I think I've
pretty much ruled out any of my connections, except of course the one
from the tank into the valve. I've used teflon pipe dope on the
connections and cranked them down really tight, so they should be
solid.

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I guess I should have given more information about my setup... Like a
previous poster, I have a ball valve shutoff coming straight out of
the outlet from the tank. I keep that closed unless I'm using the air.
I have a bunch of commercial leak detect stuff at work, think it's
called 'snoop' - I'll bring a bottle home and give it a try.

With the ball valve coming straight off of the tank, I think I've
pretty much ruled out any of my connections, except of course the one
from the tank into the valve. I've used teflon pipe dope on the
connections and cranked them down really tight, so they should be
solid.

If you can shut down the ball valve, and you are certain that your joint to
the valve is proper, and you are equally certain that the valve itself is
not leaking, then call in a warranty claim. Use a little soap and water to
double check the valve and its connection to the tank first.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Mike" wrote in message
...
I guess I should have given more information about my setup... Like a
previous poster, I have a ball valve shutoff coming straight out of
the outlet from the tank. I keep that closed unless I'm using the air.
I have a bunch of commercial leak detect stuff at work, think it's
called 'snoop' - I'll bring a bottle home and give it a try.

With the ball valve coming straight off of the tank, I think I've
pretty much ruled out any of my connections, except of course the one
from the tank into the valve. I've used teflon pipe dope on the
connections and cranked them down really tight, so they should be
solid.

If you can shut down the ball valve, and you are certain that your joint to
the valve is proper, and you are equally certain that the valve itself is
not leaking, then call in a warranty claim. Use a little soap and water to
double check the valve and its connection to the tank first.

If this is the case, you probably have a leak in or around the pressure
regulator and/or gauge, and this would certainly be warranty territory.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
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"Mike" wrote in message
...
I have a new Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal. compressor that doesn't want to
maintain any pressure over a period of time. If I run the compressor
and bring it up to pressure, then turn off the motor, within 48 hours
the pressure is down below 20 psi. Obviously, there is a leak
somewhere in one of the connections, or in the tank itself.

I've talked to a contractor buddy that uses several small portable
compressors often, and he tells me that this is normal - not to worry
about it. To me, it seems wrong. I can see if the pressure dropped
down a bit over time, but to completely empty in 2 days?

So, what is a reasonable expectation for a 60 gal compressor holding
pressure?

The tank has a big sticker claiming that it includes on site warranty
service from the manufacturer, should I try to take them up on their
offer?

Can you not hear the leak????? I have a 20 gallon compressor that I
purposely leave the drain valve open far enough that it will bleed down to
nothing in 2 days, like yours is doing. I have no problem hearing the leak.

Being new I would recommend turning the hose pressure down to "zero" and
disconnecting the hose to begin eliminating possibilities.
Spray a soapy water mix on all connections and look for bubbles.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...


The first thing coming out of my compressor is a ball and socket cutoff
valve, with the oil/water extractor hanging off of that, followed by the
quick release hose fitting. If I throw the cutoff value to the "off"
position (which I always do when I'm not using it) my compressor will
hold that tank of air until hell freezes over. If not, it will fire up
about once a day (usually at 2:00am in the morning), particularly if a
hose is connected. Those quick-release fittings are not the most
air-tight contraptions on the planet...


Good connectors are much - much better than the cheap stuff you find at
Home Depot (CH), or Harbor Freight. Don't scrimp on connectors, and
expect to have to replace even the good ones every couple/few years,
depending on the amount of use.


Yes! Try to find Milton fittings, I prefer the brass.

On 10 June, 01:34, Mike wrote:

With the ball valve coming straight off of the tank, I think I've
pretty much ruled out any of my connections,

There's a non-return from the compressor to the tank. If that leaks,
you can empty backwards through the compressor. Hard to spot, as
bubble fluid on the connector threads just isn't going to find it. I
once spotted this because the compressor oil sump was pressurising and
oil was weeping out of the filler hole!

If that's the remaining choice, try sticking a temporary ball valve in
there, then shutting it off and leaving it overnight (powered off).