I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.
So I marked pencil lines on both sides and opposite sides of the
panel.
I covered the lines with two layers of tape. The tape will act like a
hinge.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...wlinesTape.jpg

Then I took a 60-degree V-Bit and routed along the line, right down
to, but not through, the double layer of tape.
I took more than one pass. You can, of course, do this with 90-degree
bits as well.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...nt=VGroove.jpg

I then ran two small beads of adhesive along the length of the
grooves.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...lueandFold.jpg

I folded and held the fold in place with a few passes of hotmelt.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=ClampMelt.jpg

When the glue dries, I will paint. A quick scuff of a sanding block
will make the mitre seam smooth enough to paint without having to fill
any gaps.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...hibitPanel.jpg

"Robatoy" wrote

I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.

Did you trade your table saw for that big CNC?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.

When the glue dries, I will paint. A quick scuff of a sanding block
will make the mitre seam smooth enough to paint without having to fill
any gaps.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...hibitPanel.jpg

Impressive but that leaves is a very vulnerable to damage joint.

An old technique that cabinet builders use to use on job built cabinets was
to leave the plywood panels ends at 90 degrees and bring the inside edges
together so that the outer exposed corner revealed the entire edge of both
plywood panels. Then he would cut a right triangle from the plywood with
the 2 short sides being equal to the 3/4" thickness of the cabinet plywood
panels. The longer surface would have the outer veneer surface. He would
attach that triangular piece into he corner. This technique pulls the
corner in a bit so that it is less likely to get nicked by a simple bump.

For less than 90 degree applications a solid piece of wood can be used with
pocket hole screws and only angle the plywood side of the joint. Leave the
solid wood edge at a 90 degree angle and let it overlap the plywood surface.
Attach and then plane down the solid wood overhang, it literally moves the
joint away from the corner and the corner is solid wood.

On Mar 14, 8:43*am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.

Did you trade your table saw for that big CNC?

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

LOL.. noooo, what I paid for that CNC is such a huge gloat, I am
keeping this to myself.

My current table saw is not really set up for big 4x8 panels. In the
countertop biz, one tends to make the tools move, not the work.
I'm sortakinda tuned that way now.

It is the tape hinge that makes this process fast, simple, and full-
proof.
Strap on a fence, drop the bit down, have at it.
A table saw 45-degree cut x 4 is more work, IMHO.

On Mar 14, 10:57*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...

I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.
When the glue dries, I will paint. A quick scuff of a sanding block
will make the mitre seam smooth enough to paint without having to fill
any gaps.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=view&current=...

Impressive but that leaves is a very vulnerable to damage joint.

An old technique that cabinet builders use to use on job built cabinets was
to leave the plywood panels ends at 90 degrees and bring the inside edges
together so that the outer exposed corner revealed the entire edge of both
plywood panels. *Then he would cut a right triangle from the plywood with
the 2 short sides being equal to the 3/4" thickness of the cabinet plywood
panels. *The longer surface would have the outer veneer surface. *He would
attach that triangular piece into he corner. *This technique pulls the
corner in a bit so that it is less likely to get nicked by a simple bump.

I have seen solid wood used to make that 45-degree 'plug' as well.
Effective and nice looking.
Not fast, though.


For less than 90 degree applications a solid piece of wood can be used with
pocket hole screws and only angle the plywood side of the joint. *Leave the
solid wood edge at a 90 degree angle and let it overlap the plywood surface.
Attach and then plane down the solid wood overhang, it literally moves the
joint away from the corner and the corner is solid wood.

On Mar 14, 12:16*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
My current table saw is not really set up for big 4x8 panels. In the
countertop biz, one tends to make the tools move, not the work.
I'm sortakinda tuned that way now.

So, do you have a track saw then or perhaps considering one?

I do, of sorts. I have a 12-foot long 6" wide aluminum fence. That
handles most of my long straight cuts.
That track-saw business looks mighty tempting. I don't want to get
married to odd-ball Festool saw-blade bore diameters. So the 'others'
are worth looking into.

"Robatoy" wrote
On Mar 14, 8:43 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.

Did you trade your table saw for that big CNC?

LOL.. noooo, what I paid for that CNC is such a huge gloat, I am
keeping this to myself.

Sorry, Bubba ... the wind blowing in that direction already gave you away.

My current table saw is not really set up for big 4x8 panels. In the
countertop biz, one tends to make the tools move, not the work.
I'm sortakinda tuned that way now.

Understand perfectly ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Robatoy" wrote in message
My current table saw is not really set up for big 4x8 panels. In the
countertop biz, one tends to make the tools move, not the work.
I'm sortakinda tuned that way now.

So, do you have a track saw then or perhaps considering one?

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
That track-saw business looks mighty tempting. I don't want to get
married to odd-ball Festool saw-blade bore diameters. So the 'others'
are worth looking into.

Yeah, I'm seriously considering a purchase. Don't know if you saw my
comparison between DeWalt and Festool at the woodworking show, but they
both
cut well with what I'd consider a finished edge. The pricing of the DeWalt
tracksaw is higher considerably than I'd have expected, so I'm looking a
little more closely at the Festool considering that I'm reasonably sure a
Domino is somewhere in my future. Might was well go with stuff that plays
well together. Festool also has a fairly lightweight cutting table that
can
incorporate one of their track saws. The track flips up on a hinge for
quick
wood alignment. The table would suit me well from my sitting position.


I don't recall you saying, did the DeWalt saw have decent dust collection?

I have the Domino, Rotex Sander, their Finish sander and the CT22 Vac. The
work areas stay very clean and void of debris. The only problem with the
sanders is that it is difficult to judge progress, especially with the
finish sander. I used to watch for the pile of dust to gauge the progress
of where I have been and need to go. The pores of red oak stay cleaned out.
Also under normal flat surface sanding the sand paper lasts much longer but
you have to develop a knack in determining when to change out the paper as
it looks the same new or worn out. I find that rubbing a finger across the
paper's surface works for me.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
That track-saw business looks mighty tempting. I don't want to get
married to odd-ball Festool saw-blade bore diameters. So the 'others'
are worth looking into.

Yeah, I'm seriously considering a purchase. Don't know if you saw my
comparison between DeWalt and Festool at the woodworking show, but they both
cut well with what I'd consider a finished edge. The pricing of the DeWalt
tracksaw is higher considerably than I'd have expected, so I'm looking a
little more closely at the Festool considering that I'm reasonably sure a
Domino is somewhere in my future. Might was well go with stuff that plays
well together. Festool also has a fairly lightweight cutting table that can
incorporate one of their track saws. The track flips up on a hinge for quick
wood alignment. The table would suit me well from my sitting position.

"Leon" wrote in message
I don't recall you saying, did the DeWalt saw have decent dust collection?

Can't answer that. The DeWalt tracksaw did have a dust collection port, but
it was not connected to a vacuum during the demonstration. Considering how
closely the two saws matched each other in capability, I'd guess the dust
collection was comparable, since there wasn't much direction the dust could
travel to except for the dust port, but I can't say categorically.

Also, I can't rightly remember at this point, but I believe the salesman
made claims that the DeWalt saw would ride properly on the Festool track,
but the reverse was not true. The DeWalt tracksaw also apparently had
kickback protection. Don't know if the Festool has that capability or not.

On Mar 14, 1:30*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
I don't recall you saying, did the DeWalt saw have decent dust collection?

Can't answer that. The DeWalt tracksaw did have a dust collection port, but
it was not connected to a vacuum during the demonstration. Considering how
closely the two saws matched each other in capability, I'd guess the dust
collection was comparable, since there wasn't much direction the dust could
travel to except for the dust port, but I can't say categorically.

Also, I can't rightly remember at this point, but I believe the salesman
made claims that the DeWalt saw would ride properly on the Festool track,
but the reverse was not true. The DeWalt tracksaw also apparently had
kickback protection. Don't know if the Festool has that capability or not..

I just came back from the Buy Bee (our version of Grizly
sortakinda...) and they had a Makita plunging track saw on for $
425.00 including a 55" track and a bag. I didn't buy it. Not yet
anyway.

Picked up one of these though:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DK1069
That HAS to be handy for a countertop man, eh?

On Mar 14, 6:20*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

Picked up one of these though:http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet..cgi/DK1069
That HAS to be handy for a countertop man, eh?

What did it cost you. I was thinking of buying one of Lee Valley's versions.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,42958

67" long and it locks in place. Nice for scribing overhead trim too. $
37.00

The Lee Valley ones are more 'floppy' but okay for layout.

On Mar 14, 6:20*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

Picked up one of these though:http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet..cgi/DK1069
That HAS to be handy for a countertop man, eh?

What did it cost you. I was thinking of buying one of Lee Valley's versions.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,42958

I was going to call that flexible curve a 'SketchUp Straight Edge',
but decided against it. I was going to delete this post, but I had
already sent it.

"Robatoy" wrote

I was going to call that flexible curve a 'SketchUp Straight Edge',
but decided against it. I was going to delete this post, but I had
already sent it.

g ... That's OK, I was going to say that's just Rob being his usual ****
stirring self, but I decided not to.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Robatoy" wrote in message
Picked up one of these though:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DK1069
That HAS to be handy for a countertop man, eh?

What did it cost you. I was thinking of buying one of Lee Valley's versions.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,42958
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,42958

"Robatoy" wrote in message
I was going to call that flexible curve a 'SketchUp Straight Edge',
but decided against it. I was going to delete this post, but I had
already sent it.

And I decided not to read it but my eyes wouldn't obey. I have that problem
every spring when the short skirts come out for the first time after every
winter. It's an affliction that truly pains me, but unfortunately, it's a
chronic condition. I've tried to seek help for it, but the only workable
solution so far is to remove the offending skirts so I don't suffer anymore.