On Mar 14, 10:57*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...

I needed to make a couple of long mitre joints for a back-drop panel.
When the glue dries, I will paint. A quick scuff of a sanding block
will make the mitre seam smooth enough to paint without having to fill
any gaps.

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=view&current=...

Impressive but that leaves is a very vulnerable to damage joint.

An old technique that cabinet builders use to use on job built cabinets was
to leave the plywood panels ends at 90 degrees and bring the inside edges
together so that the outer exposed corner revealed the entire edge of both
plywood panels. *Then he would cut a right triangle from the plywood with
the 2 short sides being equal to the 3/4" thickness of the cabinet plywood
panels. *The longer surface would have the outer veneer surface. *He would
attach that triangular piece into he corner. *This technique pulls the
corner in a bit so that it is less likely to get nicked by a simple bump.

I have seen solid wood used to make that 45-degree 'plug' as well.
Effective and nice looking.
Not fast, though.


For less than 90 degree applications a solid piece of wood can be used with
pocket hole screws and only angle the plywood side of the joint. *Leave the
solid wood edge at a 90 degree angle and let it overlap the plywood surface.
Attach and then plane down the solid wood overhang, it literally moves the
joint away from the corner and the corner is solid wood.