hi all, not sure if this is the correct group, so I hope I don't upset
any one!

I want to build a copy of deck that I saw in a book. Here's a picture;

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/n...panesedeck.png

I've never tried something like this before, so I was hoping for a few
tips/answers.

So here goes;

1) each plank is higher than it is wide. This looks unstable. What's
the best way to attach it to the horizontal beams?

2) would it be a huge issue if my entire deck was closer to the
ground? In this pic it looks about 6 to 8 inches, but I want about 3
or 4 inches.

3) what kinds of wood should I use?

4) do the horizontal beams go through the vertical legs? or would 2
smaller ones just be attached to the leg?

thanks in advance

On Feb 4, 2:55*am, jzfredricks wrote:
hi all, not sure if this is the correct group, so I hope I don't upset
any one!

I want to build a copy of deck that I saw in a book. Here's a picture;

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ction=view&cur....

I've never tried something like this before, so I was hoping for a few
tips/answers.

So here goes;

1) each plank is higher than it is wide. This looks unstable. What's
the best way to attach it to the horizontal beams?

Lots of different ways from brackets that attach underneath:
http://www.grabberman.com/Deckmaster/HowToInstall.aspx

clips, you will need a special too to cut the deck boards:
http://www.ebty.com/installation_hid..._fasteners.php

screw down through the top of the deck boards
http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/sds/sds.htm

What you use will depend on the materials you select and how 'clean'
you want the job to look when done.



2) would it be a huge issue if my entire deck was closer to the
ground? In this pic it looks about 6 to 8 inches, but I want about 3
or 4 inches.

Not if you use these
http://www.deckplans.com/support/sizeshape.html

I've never tried them but they require the deck to be freestanding.



3) what kinds of wood should I use?

Pressure treated for all of the joists & beams
whatever you want on top including plastic wood like Trex


4) do the horizontal beams go through the vertical legs? or would 2
smaller ones just be attached to the leg?

At the height you are looking for you would probably need to use joist
hangers.
This site has a decent example similar to what you would need to do
minus the roof support posts
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/d...ing/joists.htm



thanks in advance

On Feb 4, 6:27*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

Well, to be plagued by a "limp arbor" (ahem...) you seem to have
covered the subject quite well.

The only thing I would add is that our local half priced book chain
always seems to have plenty of books, especially the Time Life series
of books on building decks.

They have some pretty good illustrated details on building in them.

Good post, LA.

Robert

"jzfredricks" wrote in message
...
hi all, not sure if this is the correct group, so I hope I don't upset
any one!

I want to build a copy of deck that I saw in a book. Here's a picture;

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/n...panesedeck.png

I've never tried something like this before, so I was hoping for a few
tips/answers.

So here goes;

1) each plank is higher than it is wide. This looks unstable. What's
the best way to attach it to the horizontal beams?

Not necessirily unstable unless the height far excedes the width. This
particular design however is wasteful of wood. Wide side down accomplishes
more in function than looks. Counter bore each deck board, scrw, and plug
the hole.


2) would it be a huge issue if my entire deck was closer to the
ground? In this pic it looks about 6 to 8 inches, but I want about 3
or 4 inches.

NO, other than having to bend over farther during construction.


3) what kinds of wood should I use?


Pressure treated, mahogany, Ipe. Do you want it to last? Ipe might out
last you.


4) do the horizontal beams go through the vertical legs? or would 2
smaller ones just be attached to the leg?

Either way however seldom do beams go through legs. they are usually
"let-in" on one side or simply nailed or bolted on to the side.

2) would it be a huge issue if my entire deck was closer to the
ground? In this pic it looks about 6 to 8 inches, but I want about 3
or 4 inches.

Not if you use these
http://www.deckplans.com/support/sizeshape.html
I've never tried them but they require the deck to be freestanding.


I have these on my side deck and they work great. The deck is small,
8ft by 4ft with stairs taking up about 1/3 of one end on a long side.

We didn't want it permanent and these blocks were the solution. Now,
every 2-3 years we can lift the deck up out of the blocks and move it
to the driveway (about 6-8ft away) to power wash, repair and re-seal.
Once done, just move it back and no hassles trying to work around the
house, windows, siding, plants, etc.

The only thing is these might not be available in the size you want,
but I bet you could make your own form and pour your own.

`Casper

thanks all for your helpful posts. I'll go and try to digest it all,
and I'm sure I'll have some more silly questions soon

On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:05:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"jzfredricks" wrote in message
...
hi all, not sure if this is the correct group, so I hope I don't upset
any one!

I want to build a copy of deck that I saw in a book. Here's a picture;

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/n...panesedeck.png

I've never tried something like this before, so I was hoping for a few
tips/answers.

So here goes;

1) each plank is higher than it is wide. This looks unstable. What's
the best way to attach it to the horizontal beams?

Not necessirily unstable unless the height far excedes the width. This
particular design however is wasteful of wood. Wide side down accomplishes
more in function than looks. Counter bore each deck board, scrw, and plug
the hole.

It's Japanese!...in this case I think the builder had in mind
deflection *and* aesthetics. What really has me concerned, and would
doubly if I was charged to build such design, is twist issues. Boring
and countersinking and screwing would be *some* stopgap, but I'm
still not sold...like joisting, if there were blocks involved twist
becomes irrelavent. Fasteners attached in a down direction are
easier, but involve plugs and those don't weather well...attaching in
an up direction hides the fastener; design comes in here, but
remember that whatever is *under* is not visible. I like the idea of
having the deck removable...build and flip!

cg


2) would it be a huge issue if my entire deck was closer to the
ground? In this pic it looks about 6 to 8 inches, but I want about 3
or 4 inches.

NO, other than having to bend over farther during construction.


3) what kinds of wood should I use?


Pressure treated, mahogany, Ipe. Do you want it to last? Ipe might out
last you.


4) do the horizontal beams go through the vertical legs? or would 2
smaller ones just be attached to the leg?

Either way however seldom do beams go through legs. they are usually
"let-in" on one side or simply nailed or bolted on to the side.