I want to build a 12 x 20 freestanding deck. I noticed that some plans
double the 2x lumber on the outside ends attached to the posts that
hold the joists. Some plans do not. If I use one 2x10 lumber on the
ends to support the joists which will be 2x8 on a 16 in. center, will
it be stout enough? I plan on using 4x4 posts buried 2ft. in concrete.
What should that spacing be also if the single 2x10 is sufficient. I
really would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Depends on many factors mostly the span and spacing. Try out these
sites:

http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...eversecalc.asp
http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp

using 2x10s on the ends and running 2x8s perpindicular 16 OC sounds to
me like a good plan for a trampoline. For a sturdy freestanding deck
you need beams resting on posts (not 4x4s) or concrete. The joists
should then ideally be on top of the beams. My friend built a deck
using 2x8s 16 OC spanning 9' and he has a slight bounce.

2ft. also doesn't sound like its deep enough unless frost isn't a
worry. Normally the posts should be on top of a footer (12"x12"
concrete). Most towns in the northeast now want the posts attached to
the concrete with brackets and the lunber out of the concrete. Check
your local codes! The man can make you take it down.

The frost line where I live is only 12 inches. The code around here
says it is okay to bury posts 2 ft. deep with poured concrete. That I
do know. Maybe I'm not clear on the beams. I was planning to attach
them to the 4x4 posts with lag or carriage bolts. I also plan to let
the 4x4s run continuous 3 ft. above the beam to attach railings. the
joists will be attached to the 2x10 beam with metal joist hangers on 16
in. centers. Any experienced opinions on this would be appreciated.

"carpcotton" wrote in message
oups.com...
The frost line where I live is only 12 inches. The code around here
says it is okay to bury posts 2 ft. deep with poured concrete. That I
do know. Maybe I'm not clear on the beams. I was planning to attach
them to the 4x4 posts with lag or carriage bolts. I also plan to let
the 4x4s run continuous 3 ft. above the beam to attach railings. the
joists will be attached to the 2x10 beam with metal joist hangers on 16
in. centers. Any experienced opinions on this would be appreciated.

I don't think this is the right group for this thread, but you need to find
the table similar to the one on this page labeled 'beams' (about halfway
down page) for your town. They usually have them at the municipal bldg.
http://www.hopkinsmn.com/inspections/building/decks/
If you are going to span 12' (size of joist irrelevant) you need two 2x12s
at a minimum for beams. In addition if the beams are only two 2x12s the
posts need to be every 4 feet. So... to go 20' with your beam you would
need 6 posts for each beam or 12 posts. Its that whole pythagorean,
traingulation thing; the longer the span the more force on the beam.
If you lag the beam to your posts all that will be holding up the entire
deck and everything on it are 12 bolts (doesn't sound too safe). Much
better to notch a 6x6 so the beam is being supported by solid lumber. You
could still notch the 6x6 on either side and through bolt 4x4s between the
double beam to go up through the deck for a railing.
The table on this site for Joists states 2x8s can span 12' 10". If you span
12' with 2x8s it WILL bounce even with 5/4 PT deck boards.
If you are having a railing I'm assuming this deck will be up in the air.
If true then you get into a whole new triangulation plane with x bracing
required from the posts to beams. That aside, if you are up somewhat then
you could set the 2x8s on top of the two beams cantilevered 2' on each end.
That would cut your span down to 8' which MAY be acceptable for 2x8s.
One more thing, if your not used to swinging a hammer all day, rent a palm
nailer. There are a lot of spots to put nails in a joist hanger and you
need to fill every hole.

In article ,
"Ray" wrote:


need 6 posts for each beam or 12 posts. Its that whole pythagorean,
traingulation thing; the longer the span the more force on the beam.

Well, actually its more about how the deflection on a
beam supported at its endpoints goes up with the cube
of the span between support points.

John D'Errico

--
My e-mail address is composed of my name (derrico)
followed by an "at" symbol, then "flare", and finally,
a dot and the word 'net'.