I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough to
get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if you
start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave you'll do
even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes without
saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will make a very
nice taper!


"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:...
Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite side.
If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle of the
side rather than from the end.

Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally
starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a
trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You can
either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which can be
run up against the fence.


"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
the middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
non-glued face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message m...
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the
board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a
slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened
then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from
constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely tapered
board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it against
the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this technique
on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a
square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence
is square to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what
I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

Thanks so very much John. Your reply makes a lot of sense and I will try it
on the next post. I need to make another one since oneof my posts got so
badly tapered it is now too thin.

Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...
I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough to
get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if you
start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave you'll do
even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes without
saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will make a very
nice taper!


"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:...
Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite
side. If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle
of the side rather than from the end.

Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally
starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a
trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You
can either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which
can be run up against the fence.


"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
the middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
non-glued face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message m...
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the
board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a
slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened
then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from
constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely
tapered board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it
against the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this
technique on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand
plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first
face flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a
square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence
is square to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left
what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

Good luck Russ. With a bit of studied experience you'll be able to read the
material soon enough! John


"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
Thanks so very much John. Your reply makes a lot of sense and I will try
it on the next post. I need to make another one since oneof my posts got
so badly tapered it is now too thin.

Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...
I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough
to get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if
you start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave
you'll do even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes
without saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will
make a very nice taper!


"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message news:...
Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite
side. If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the
middle of the side rather than from the end.

Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I
generally starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are
very uneven a trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good
way to go. You can either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to
the blank which can be run up against the fence.


"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
the middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
non-glued face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message m...
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to
not start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of
the board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result
is a slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends
flattened then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you
from constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely
tapered board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it
against the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this
technique on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7
hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first
face flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get
a square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the
fence is square to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left
what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.