I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square I had lost all
margin for machining and need to glue up another post. Is there a "trick" to
machining stock of this sort. I ususally have no trouble getting a flat face
and a square edge on planks but this nearly square piece of wood if giving
me fits.

On Jan 18, 4:40*pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square
edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square
to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the board on
the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a slight
concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened then run the
entire length over the knives. This keeps you from constantly taking wood
off one end and ending up with a severely tapered board. After the first
face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the same
technique over the length. I use this technique on both my DJ-20, which has
a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square
edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square
to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in the
middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the non-glued
face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the board
on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a slight
concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened then run the
entire length over the knives. This keeps you from constantly taking wood
off one end and ending up with a severely tapered board. After the first
face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the same
technique over the length. I use this technique on both my DJ-20, which
has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square
edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square
to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get
a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite side.
If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle of the
side rather than from the end.

Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally
starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a
trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You can
either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which can be
run up against the fence.


"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
John

In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in the
middle of the length of the board?

Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
non-glued face or the glued face?
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
m...
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the board
on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a slight
concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened then run
the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from constantly taking
wood off one end and ending up with a severely tapered board. After the
first face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the
same technique over the length. I use this technique on both my DJ-20,
which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John



"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square
edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is
square to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what
I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get
a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

On Jan 18, 6:34 pm, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the board on
the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a slight
concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened then run the
entire length over the knives. This keeps you from constantly taking wood
off one end and ending up with a severely tapered board. After the first
face is jointed full length then use it against the fence with the same
technique over the length. I use this technique on both my DJ-20, which has
a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.

Hopefully that description can be interpreted!

John

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message

...

I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a square
edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence is square
to the table and the tables are planar.
Russ
"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" wrote:
I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what I
thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up i.e
about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to get a
flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
tyring
to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...

The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
on the jointer complete the task.

I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.

Could be a good technique. Thanks, I'll give this a try. Tom