Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 230
Default RE; Glue Technique

Nailshooter41 said;
On another track, I am a big fan of the old school liquid nails, but
about 3 years ago tried the polyurethane tube glues. They seem to
hold like hell, fill in gaps well, and dry hard and completely water
resistant. The only downside is the tendency to creep and for the
glue to seep out of the joints.

Is the creep after the poly glue sets? Or before, as in sliding around.


  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,287
Default RE; Glue Technique

On Jan 14, 12:48*am, "Rick Samuel"
wrote:


*Is the creep after the poly glue sets? *Or before, as in sliding around.


Recall we are talking about poly in a tube.

It doesn't move anymore than regular Liquid Nails, PL400, and their
cousins while laying up a big project (glued sandwich beam, headers,
etc.).

No matter what I do though, it has this habit of ooze. I can clamp/
screw/nail a repair, and have little or no squeeze out. I come back
the next day, and the squeezed out doubles. Over large joints, it
might triple.

Example: Since it sticks to just about anything, I recently used it
to put a stiffener in a drawer bottom for a client. The bottom
material was too thin, and the large drawer was overloaded for years.

I cut a piece of 2X2 and sanded it smooth. I applied a long, thin
bead of glue across the width of the stiffener (the drawer was a 32"
wide model) and screwed through the sides, and then through the bottom
(tightly- screws every 4") into the stiffener so the screws wouldn't
be seen.

The next day, there was a small line of ooze that crept out
overnight. It wasn't that way when I left at the end of the day.

Because of it's toughness, I used the same glue to adhere stiffeners,
braces and repair pieces to the bases of some craft style furniture
that was in need of help. Due to the rough original fits of the
joints and their current poor condition, I chose the poly glue for its
ability to gap fill those irregular, dirty surfaces. Same results; no
squeeze out for a couple of hours. Many hours later... squeeze out.

Like I said, I really like the stuff and use it when needed. But you
have to remember what you are using it for and realize its
capabilities as well as its limitations.

The completely waterproof feature and the outright toughness of this
glue gives it a space in the truck box for me.

Robert
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,091
Default RE; Glue Technique

Poly glues expand as they absorb moisture so I suppose what you are
seeing is a slow absorbtion of moisture from the material and humidity
thus a slow expansion. I also suppose if you et the joint first the
expansion will happen right away and you can wipe or scrape away the
squeeze. Some polys require you to wet it first right?

On Jan 14, 8:24*am, "
wrote:
On Jan 14, 12:48*am, "Rick Samuel"
wrote:

*Is the creep after the poly glue sets? *Or before, as in sliding around.


Recall we are talking about poly in a tube.

It doesn't move anymore than regular Liquid Nails, PL400, and their
cousins while laying up a big project (glued sandwich beam, headers,
etc.).

No matter what I do though, it has this habit of ooze. *I can clamp/
screw/nail a repair, and have little or no squeeze out. *I come back
the next day, and the squeezed out doubles. *Over large joints, it
might triple.

Example: *Since it sticks to just about anything, I recently used it
to put a stiffener in a drawer bottom for a client. *The bottom
material was too thin, and the large drawer was overloaded for years.

I cut a piece of 2X2 and sanded it smooth. *I applied a long, thin
bead of glue across the width of the stiffener (the drawer was a 32"
wide model) and screwed through the sides, and then through the bottom
(tightly- screws every 4") into the stiffener so the screws wouldn't
be seen.

The next day, there was a small line of ooze that crept out
overnight. *It wasn't that way when I left at the end of the day.

Because of it's toughness, I used the same glue to adhere stiffeners,
braces *and repair pieces to the bases of some craft style furniture
that was in need of help. *Due to the rough original fits of the
joints and their current poor condition, I chose the poly glue for its
ability to gap fill those irregular, dirty surfaces. *Same results; no
squeeze out for a couple of hours. * Many hours later... squeeze out.

Like I said, I really like the stuff and use it when needed. *But you
have to remember what you are using it for and realize its
capabilities as well as its limitations.

The completely waterproof feature and the outright toughness of this
glue gives it a space in the truck box for me.

Robert


  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,287
Default RE; Glue Technique

On Jan 14, 11:08*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:


Poly glues expand as they absorb moisture so I suppose what you are
seeing is a slow absorbtion of moisture from the material and humidity
thus a slow expansion. I also suppose if you et the joint first the
expansion will happen right away and you can wipe or scrape away the
squeeze. Some polys require you to wet it first right?


Again, recall we are talking about poly in a tube, NOT Gorilla or
Elmer's in a bottle. I personally can't stand those glues, anyway. I
can never get them to behave really well.

This is what I am speaking of, and again, it is in a tube.

http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=54

or if munged:

http://tinyurl.com/9qqtlp

No wetting is necessary, and in fact moisture on the surfaces would
probably cause the initial adherence to fail.

Robert

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,091
Default RE; Glue Technique

Point taken and this was only speculation on my part. The technical
data sheet does indicate "moisture cure" and all the poly glues (that
require wetting) always expand as the mositure acting as a catalyst
(sp?) starts to cure the glue. The data sheet also indicates that
humidity is one of the factors in how long the glue takes to cure so
just speculating.

On Jan 14, 9:51*am, "
wrote:
On Jan 14, 11:08*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

Poly glues expand as they absorb moisture so I suppose what you are
seeing is a slow absorbtion of moisture from the material and humidity
thus a slow expansion. I also suppose if you et the joint first the
expansion will happen right away and you can wipe or scrape away the
squeeze. Some polys require you to wet it first right?


Again, recall we are talking about poly in a tube, NOT Gorilla or
Elmer's in a bottle. *I personally can't stand those glues, anyway. I
can never get them to behave really well.

This is what I am speaking of, and again, it is in a tube.

http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=54

or if munged:

http://tinyurl.com/9qqtlp

No wetting is necessary, and in fact moisture on the surfaces would
probably cause the initial adherence to fail.

Robert




  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,287
Default RE; Glue Technique

On Jan 14, 1:05*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

SNIP

The data sheet also indicates that
humidity is one of the factors in how long the glue takes to cure so
just speculating.


All of those things could be a consideration, and could actually make
some sense too, when observing the way the glue works.

Down here in sunny South Texas, it isn't unusual to have 80%+ (easily
more!) humidity for months in a row. I have a tendency to take that
for granted.

Robert
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 230
Default RE; Glue Technique

All of those things could be a consideration, and could actually make
some sense too, when observing the way the glue works.

Down here in sunny South Texas, it isn't unusual to have 80%+ (easily
more!) humidity for months in a row. I have a tendency to take that
for granted.

Robert

Thanks, S. TX. huh? Marble Falls here, (when I'm home)


  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,287
Default RE; Glue Technique

On Jan 15, 1:53*am, "Rick Samuel"
wrote:


*Thanks, S. TX. huh? Marble Falls here, (when I'm home)


Hey... practically neighbors!

(At least in Texas anyway!)

Robert

  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,852
Default RE; Glue Technique

Yep - you are between us.

Martin in Lufkin.
(once Round Rock, Arlington, El Paso....)

wrote:
On Jan 15, 1:53 am, "Rick Samuel"
wrote:


Thanks, S. TX. huh? Marble Falls here, (when I'm home)


Hey... practically neighbors!

(At least in Texas anyway!)

Robert

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gorilla Glue vs. Elmers Ultimate Glue Polyurethane? blueman Home Repair 7 January 23rd 20 02:44 PM
Glue Technique [email protected] Woodworking 36 January 8th 09 01:21 AM
Natural, water-resistant glue such as casein or hide glue? JakeD UK diy 22 December 11th 07 02:15 PM
Glue the coil to the inverter circuit board? Why?Need glue after the reapir??? [email protected] Electronics Repair 3 September 24th 06 03:26 PM
Flat-pack furniture. To glue or not to glue? Sim C. UK diy 11 September 6th 05 10:54 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:50 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"