I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

Personally, I don't know why you would add all that stuff to your
poly. If you want something that will take heat, is abrasion
resistant, and will cure hard, simply put on the poly.

There is no reason to put that other business in your poly. Although
your BLO probably had nothing to do with linseed (flax) oil, and your
tung oil is almost certainly not related to the nut, the will most
like have organic resins that will cause them to cure to a soft
finish.

To illustrate this to your own satisfaction and to compare abrasion
resistance, coloration, etc., try this:

Take a piece of the same pine you have made your project from and
apply one part of each of your 3 ingredients. Let them dry/cure for a
week or so. Run a piece of sandpaper across them; which one scratches
the easiest? Set something wet on each test area and leave it for an
hour or two. Which one has the least discoloration or damage?

You will easily see that the addition of the softer resins does
nothing for the longevity and durability of your finish.

If you are doing this to make some kind of wipe on finish, buy a
quality wipe on finish and use that.

Most finishes made today are made specifically to be used as they are
formulated. OF COURSE you can do anything you want with them, but
backyard alchemy isn't always a good solution. In this day and age
there are plenty of over the counter solutions to good finishes.

Robert

On Aug 19, 12:57*am, "
wrote:
On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:

I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

Personally, I don't know why you would add all that stuff to your
poly. *If you want something that will take heat, is abrasion
resistant, and will cure hard, simply put on the poly.

There is no reason to put that other business in your poly. *Although
your BLO probably had nothing to do with linseed (flax) oil, and your
tung oil is almost certainly not related to the nut, the will most
like have organic resins that will cause them to cure to a soft
finish.

To illustrate this to your own satisfaction and to compare abrasion
resistance, coloration, etc., try this:

Take a piece of the same pine you have made your project from and
apply one part of each of your 3 ingredients. *Let them dry/cure for a
week or so. *Run a piece of sandpaper across them; which one scratches
the easiest? *Set something wet on each test area and leave it for an
hour or two. *Which one has the least discoloration or damage?

You will easily see that the addition of the softer resins does
nothing for the longevity and durability of your finish.

If you are doing this to make some kind of wipe on finish, buy a
quality wipe on finish and use that.

Most finishes made today are made specifically to be used as they are
formulated. *OF COURSE you can do anything you want with them, but
backyard alchemy isn't always a good solution. *In this day and age
there are plenty of over the counter solutions to good finishes.

Robert

I have used, with great success, Akzo's Sikkens Autocryl Clear. It's
an automotive clear coat and it is truly clear like water.
One can infinitely alter the sheen by adding Matting Clear.
It is a 3-part product that can also be made to flex a bit more with
an additive.
Coat one, add an extra dose of thinner. and soak the pine till you
almost get runs.

Quickly clean your equipment.

Then sand with 320
Then spray on full strength Autocryl and you will get a finish which
will last and last, won't yellow and is very abrasive resistant. Be
careful spraying 5 piece kitchen cabinet doors, as it will adhere the
panel to the rails and stiles and break stuff. DAMHIKT

Then quickly clean your equipment again. You can do most of the
cleaning with regular lacquer thinner, but the final rinse should be
Sikkens thinners.

I have used this process in commercial applications and it wears like
iron.

It is a bit of a pain to handle, and for SURE wear high organic
compound mask. Better yet, use a positive air mask. The hardener will
kill you.... and I mean KILL you.

Drawback? And ONLY drawback? The stuff is expensive. 330,000 colours.
But.. it is a very high solids product and if you want high gloss,
Steinway piano black, with a wet look, that's the stuff.

Here's a price list: http://www.licariautobodysupply.com/...st/sikkens.htm

It will cost you around $ 400.00 for 1.5 gallons, but remember, very
little flashes off.

I grew up down wind from the original Sikkens factory in The
Netherlands and smelled my fair share of BLO, they didn't play with
acrylics in that factory, just varnishes. I never minded that scent
too much.

In article bfab9bb5-1a0c-4dae-b473-
,
says...
On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

Personally, I don't know why you would add all that stuff to your
poly. If you want something that will take heat, is abrasion
resistant, and will cure hard, simply put on the poly.

There is no reason to put that other business in your poly. Although
your BLO probably had nothing to do with linseed (flax) oil, and your
tung oil is almost certainly not related to the nut, the will most
like have organic resins that will cause them to cure to a soft
finish.

To illustrate this to your own satisfaction and to compare abrasion
resistance, coloration, etc., try this:

Take a piece of the same pine you have made your project from and
apply one part of each of your 3 ingredients. Let them dry/cure for a
week or so. Run a piece of sandpaper across them; which one scratches
the easiest? Set something wet on each test area and leave it for an
hour or two. Which one has the least discoloration or damage?

You will easily see that the addition of the softer resins does
nothing for the longevity and durability of your finish.

If you are doing this to make some kind of wipe on finish, buy a
quality wipe on finish and use that.

Most finishes made today are made specifically to be used as they are
formulated. OF COURSE you can do anything you want with them, but
backyard alchemy isn't always a good solution. In this day and age
there are plenty of over the counter solutions to good finishes.

Robert

Hi Robert,

The finish is a common formula. I think the might even sell it under
the Maloof brand. I love the way it goes on easily and dries hard,
keeping the feel of wood without the plastic polyurethane look and
feel. My question is whether anyone has any experience with its
durability on a soft wood like pine over a period of time.

Thanks,

s.

samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Never heard of that formula...although I've heard of 1/3 varnish, 1/3
turpentine, and 1/3 oil (blo or tung) as a nice wiping finish that
builds easily without looking plasticy and is simple to renew.

No matter what you put on it (okay, maybe with the exception of bartop
epoxy) pine is going to get dented.

As far as water/heat resistance, I have an oak trivet on which I used
plain BLO and it's held up fine to hot pots and spills. I imagine your
concoction would work as well.

Chris

On Tue, 19 Aug 2008 10:40:32 -0500, samson wrote:

Most finishes made today are made specifically to be used as they are
formulated. OF COURSE you can do anything you want with them, but
backyard alchemy isn't always a good solution. In this day and age
there are plenty of over the counter solutions to good finishes.

Robert

Hi Robert,

The finish is a common formula. I think the might even sell it under
the Maloof brand. I love the way it goes on easily and dries hard,
keeping the feel of wood without the plastic polyurethane look and
feel. My question is whether anyone has any experience with its
durability on a soft wood like pine over a period of time.

Polyurethane is a varnish. In all the cases I know of it's a "short oil"
varnish. All you're doing with the mix is changing it into a "long oil"
varnish. You could do that a lot easier by just buying Watco.

samson wrote:

In article bfab9bb5-1a0c-4dae-b473-
,
says...
On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

The finish is a common formula. I think the might even sell it under
the Maloof brand. I love the way it goes on easily and dries hard,
keeping the feel of wood without the plastic polyurethane look and
feel. My question is whether anyone has any experience with its
durability on a soft wood like pine over a period of time.

This formula is a favorite of mine as well. It is attributed to Sam Maloof and
has the qualities you describe. It is also very easy to repair if there are
problems.

I haven't used it on pine, but I did use it on a maple kitchen table. It is
holding up very well.

-- Doug

" wrote:

On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

Personally, I don't know why you would add all that stuff to your
poly. If you want something that will take heat, is abrasion
resistant, and will cure hard, simply put on the poly.

Indeed, if that's all you want, put on poly. The way OP phrased the question,
poly is probably the best answer.

But the finish he is describing is a favorite of mine because it has much of the
wear resistance of poly, is closer to the wood (less "plasticky"), does an
excellent job of popping figure, and is very easy to repair.

There is no reason to put that other business in your poly.

See above.

Although
your BLO probably had nothing to do with linseed (flax) oil, and your
tung oil is almost certainly not related to the nut, the will most
like have organic resins that will cause them to cure to a soft
finish.

Why is BLO not linseed oil with metallic dryers? That's what the can says. Why
is pure tung oil something else? I know "Tung Oil Finish" can be anything, but
pure tung oil comes from a nut.


Most finishes made today are made specifically to be used as they are
formulated. OF COURSE you can do anything you want with them, but
backyard alchemy isn't always a good solution. In this day and age
there are plenty of over the counter solutions to good finishes.

There are a lot of good over the counter solutions to good finishes. There is a
lot of good over the counter furniture, too. But some of the nut jobs in this
group keep trying to build the stuff themselves.

-- Doug

On Aug 18, 11:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

Thanks,

S.

Base mix of 50/50 thinned varnish (any), with enough oil to
keep the rag from sticking. Behlen's Rockhard tabletop
varnish (phenolic resin) works great, won't yellow or feel like
cheap plastic. Urethane is best used for kid's furniture,
where looks are second to abuse resistance.

Orange / amber shellac is the prettiest finish for
pine. Unwaxed is reputed to stand up well to
spills. Soak a rag in straight 3 lb cut and buff
in until it starts to stick, very easy.

On Aug 19, 1:46 pm, Douglas Johnson wrote:


Why is BLO not linseed oil with metallic dryers? That's what the can says.

In rereading my assumption, my language was probably too strong. I
said "probably", I could see how the statement could confuse. Not too
long ago (10 years?), it was a common practice for other, cheaper oils
to be added to "BLO". It finally got to the point in the professional
finishing community (of which I belong from time to time) questioned
what was in the BLO we were buying.

A call to the tech support of CROWN by me, and a couple of other
manufacturers confirmed there were different blends of oils in the BLO
formula to "enhance performance" and to "extend shelf life" and to
"ease application". Depending on the manufacturer, other oils
included soya and other vegetable oils that were treated to polymerize
when applied. Add this to the fact that BLO already has different
solvents and driers in it, and you are using only the component of the
flax seed.

There is no law that says "BLO must be of XX% to be considered pure"
or any other such nonsense. In fact, there is no law that says that
BLO has to be boiled, of which it never has been. So they are already
selling a mislabeled product. This also gives them to the latitude to
call their own blend of oils, solvents and driers "Boiled Linseed Oil"
since it is understood that there isn't such an animal.

Why
is pure tung oil something else? I know "Tung Oil Finish" can be anything, but
pure tung oil comes from a nut.

See above. But you can rest easier knowing that tung oil
manufacturers are more careful than the BLO guys. Still, "pure tung
oil" doesn't mean that all that is in your bottle is pure tung. It
can have solvents, thinners, driers etc., to help the shelf life and
application process. Remember, this isn't food. Not all ingredients
will necessarily show up on the label.

Besides the fact that real 100% tung is really thick, takes a long
time to dry, and won't buff to a high shine, here's how to tell if you
have the real, unmodified recipe as mother nature made it.

If you are paying about $35 a quart, you probably have the real deal
with no additives or formula modification.

There are a lot of good over the counter solutions to good finishes. There is a
lot of good over the counter furniture, too. But some of the nut jobs in this
group keep trying to build the stuff themselves.

I am thinking that was some kind of sarcasm, but I may be wrong. In
any case, I would certainly encourage anyone that wanted to really
learn about finishing to take the time needed to set up controlled
experiments.

Folk lore, word of mouth, "I knew a guy", "this is the way the old
Dutchmen did it" (it's OK... I'm a squarehead myself), and on an on
don't cut it when the rubber meets the road. To me, what counts is a
good looking, durable, WARRANTABLE finish.

If I can buy something over the counter that is bullet proof, I don't
usually get the thrill out of channeling my heritage to the point of
making my own home brew finishes.

And whilst we are throwing around Sam Maloof's name, if you are a fan
or disciple, he has some great comments on this very subject of
becoming one with your projects.
Check his book out. One of the most no-nonsense tomes of woodworking
I can remember reading.

Robert

samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

My question would be: "Will it ever dry?"

On Aug 19, 12:26 am, Robatoy wrote:


It is a bit of a pain to handle, and for SURE wear high organic
compound mask. Better yet, use a positive air mask. The hardener will
kill you.... and I mean KILL you.

Drawback? And ONLY drawback? The stuff is expensive.

My kinda guy!! It's messy, hard to work with, needs specialized
equipment and safety procedures, requires proprietary cleaning
solvents, IT COULD KILL YOU, and the only fault you find is that -

it's expensive??!!

I laughed hard enough to fall out of my chair on that one. I have
this picture of you sitting there saying "whuut?... what's so funny?"

If someone asked me to finish a table with that stuff I would tell
them to go soak their head in it!

It will cost you around $ 400.00 for 1.5 gallons, but remember, very
little flashes off.

Well, OK. That helps. RIGHT!!

I grew up down wind from the original Sikkens factory in The
Netherlands and smelled my fair share of BLO, they didn't play with
acrylics in that factory, just varnishes. I never minded that scent
too much.

I have only used their sealants and adhesives, and they are all top
notch. I have never had any call to use their high end "coatings".

Robert

wrote:


In fact, there is no law that says that
BLO has to be boiled, of which it never has been.

Back in the day it actually was boiled, which caused it to polymerize.
I'm not aware of any sources for such a product today though.

So they are already
selling a mislabeled product. This also gives them to the latitude to
call their own blend of oils, solvents and driers "Boiled Linseed Oil"
since it is understood that there isn't such an animal.

According to the MSDS for my bottle of BLO, it contains flaxseed oil (at
least 98%), Cobalt naphthenate, and Zirconium naphthenate. So not all
manufacturers use a blend of oils.

Chris

" wrote:

On Aug 19, 1:46 pm, Douglas Johnson wrote:


Why is BLO not linseed oil with metallic dryers? That's what the can says.

In fact, there is no law that says that
BLO has to be boiled, of which it never has been. So they are already
selling a mislabeled product. This also gives them to the latitude to
call their own blend of oils, solvents and driers "Boiled Linseed Oil"
since it is understood that there isn't such an animal.

Good point.

Besides the fact that real 100% tung is really thick, takes a long
time to dry, and won't buff to a high shine, here's how to tell if you
have the real, unmodified recipe as mother nature made it.

If you are paying about $35 a quart, you probably have the real deal
with no additives or formula modification.

Yeah, that's the stuff. $23.50 a liter from Lee Valley.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42942
"This product contains no thinners or driers".

I'm using it straight on a cherry crib for my SECOND grandson, due in about 6
weeks. GRIN.

There are a lot of good over the counter solutions to good finishes. There is a
lot of good over the counter furniture, too. But some of the nut jobs in this
group keep trying to build the stuff themselves.

I am thinking that was some kind of sarcasm, but I may be wrong. In
any case, I would certainly encourage anyone that wanted to really
learn about finishing to take the time needed to set up controlled
experiments.

Yeah, that was some kind of sarcasm. I hope you could see the smile I had while
writing it. You did catch my point.

To me, what counts is a
good looking, durable, WARRANTABLE finish.

If I can buy something over the counter that is bullet proof, I don't
usually get the thrill out of channeling my heritage to the point of
making my own home brew finishes.

As a pro, your goals are different than mine. I certainly can see your point.
Me, I want to build nice things and learn new stuff. I can afford to spend the
time to experiment and I don't warrant anything.

And whilst we are throwing around Sam Maloof's name, if you are a fan
or disciple, he has some great comments on this very subject of
becoming one with your projects.
Check his book out. One of the most no-nonsense tomes of woodworking
I can remember reading.

I just added it to my Amazon wish list.

-- Doug

B A R R Y wrote:

samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

My question would be: "Will it ever dry?

Sure. It dries overnight.
-- Doug

In article ,
says...
samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

My question would be: "Will it ever dry?"


Yes, it dries great, but it takes a day and
a half.

S.

In article ,
says...
samson wrote:

In article bfab9bb5-1a0c-4dae-b473-
,
says...
On Aug 18, 10:19 pm, samson wrote:
I made a coffee table from butcherboard knotty pine. For a
finish, I like using the old forumla: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 polyurethane,
1/3 tung oil. My question: Will this mixture hold up on pine
with spills and hot cups?

The finish is a common formula. I think the might even sell it under
the Maloof brand. I love the way it goes on easily and dries hard,
keeping the feel of wood without the plastic polyurethane look and
feel. My question is whether anyone has any experience with its
durability on a soft wood like pine over a period of time.

This formula is a favorite of mine as well. It is attributed to Sam Maloof and
has the qualities you describe. It is also very easy to repair if there are
problems.

I haven't used it on pine, but I did use it on a maple kitchen table. It is
holding up very well.

-- Doug

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll use the 1/3rd
formula and see what happens. If it doesn't work out, I'll make
another table, minus the learning mistakes, e.g., sanding the
legs better when they are on the lathe!

S.

"Douglas Johnson" wrote

I'm using it straight on a cherry crib for my SECOND grandson, due in
about 6
weeks. GRIN.

Congratulations, my second grandson is due about the same time, in
September. I'm also a big fan of the Sam Maloof finish, it works
_beautifully_ on cherry, and walnut:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Hc30.jpg


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote:

Congratulations, my second grandson is due about the same time, in
September. I'm also a big fan of the Sam Maloof finish, it works
_beautifully_ on cherry, and walnut:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Hc30.jpg

Consider this an official, double, "you suck".
-- Doug

Douglas Johnson wrote:


Sure. It dries overnight.
-- Doug

Are you using 100% Tung Oil, or a Tung Oil finish?

B A R R Y wrote:

Douglas Johnson wrote:


Sure. It dries overnight.
-- Doug

Are you using 100% Tung Oil, or a Tung Oil finish?

For the 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 poly, you should use 100% tung oil. No
telling what is in tung oil finish. Woodcraft and Lee Valley both have the pure
stuff. -- Doug

Douglas Johnson wrote:
B A R R Y wrote:

Douglas Johnson wrote:

Sure. It dries overnight.
-- Doug
Are you using 100% Tung Oil, or a Tung Oil finish?

For the 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 poly, you should use 100% tung oil. No
telling what is in tung oil finish. Woodcraft and Lee Valley both have the pure
stuff. -- Doug


I'll have to play with it.

My favorite paint store sells Hope's 100% Tung.

Thanks!

B A R R Y wrote:

For the 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 poly, you should use 100% tung oil. No
telling what is in tung oil finish. Woodcraft and Lee Valley both have the pure
stuff. -- Doug


I'll have to play with it.

I usually use three or four coats. Then I wax it with 1/3 bee's wax, 1/3 tung
oil, and 1/3 BLO. You need to heat the mix to get the bee's wax to dissolve. Be
careful. Use a double boiler or crock pot.

-- Doug

In article ,
says...
B A R R Y wrote:

Douglas Johnson wrote:


Sure. It dries overnight.
-- Doug

Are you using 100% Tung Oil, or a Tung Oil finish?

For the 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 poly, you should use 100% tung oil. No
telling what is in tung oil finish. Woodcraft and Lee Valley both have the pure
stuff. -- Doug


Same here. I use pure Tung Oil from Rockler's. It's not cheap,
though.

S.

On Aug 19, 4:17 pm, Douglas Johnson wrote:

Yeah, that's the stuff. $23.50 a liter from Lee Valley.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42942
"This product contains no thinners or driers".

That's the juice. The real stuff. With no thinners or driers you
have the real deal.

I'm using it straight on a cherry crib for my SECOND grandson, due in about 6
weeks. GRIN.

First, congratulations on the upcoming family member! Tung should be
an excellent choice for the crib.

Not to sound confounding here, but tung oil is known for its lack of
penetration. (I know, I know, are you ever happy, Robert?)
However, most refinishers that use PURE tung as a base coat to other
finishes thin it by about 50% or so to increase penetration.

I don't agree with this Russ on a lot of things and we have
corresponded before. In this case though, you might find his articles
on BLO and tung interesting. His observations are pretty widely
accepted as are his application methods in these particular cases.

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish6.shtml


Me, I want to build nice things and learn new stuff. I can afford to spend the
time to experiment and I don't warrant anything.

Me, too. I just don't seem to do it anymore. I seem to learn out of
necessity these days, not for the enjoyment.

And whilst we are throwing around Sam Maloof's name, if you are a fan
or disciple, he has some great comments on this very subject of
becoming one with your projects.
Check his book out. One of the most no-nonsense tomes of woodworking
I can remember reading.

I just added it to my Amazon wish list.

You will love it. It is as much a commentary on things related to
woodworking as it is instructive. His candor in using wood as a
medium and his thoughts on that alone are worth the price of the
book. He does does not believe that wood speaks to him nor does he
channel any distant voices of ancient craftsmen.

He believes his time is precious, so as he says, when he communicates
with wood he uses shorthand. He uses power tools when possible. He
only came up with his own finish because he didn't like the ones that
are out there. And in fact, according to folklore, he came up with
his finish because some of his early work was rejected due to the use
of heavy varnishes and oils.

Be sure and check out his comments on pages 64 - 65 when you get the
book.

Robert

On Aug 19, 4:36 pm, "Swingman" wrote:

Congratulations, my second grandson is due about the same time, in
September. I'm also a big fan of the Sam Maloof finish, it works
_beautifully_ on cherry, and walnut:

Well, well. Congrats to you, good sir!

I hope for all the best - you know, 10 fingers, 10 toes and all that.

Got a new crib going yet?

Robert

"Douglas Johnson" wrote:

You need to heat the mix to get the bee's wax to dissolve. Be
careful. Use a double boiler or crock pot.


Great place for a 1lb coffee can with plastic cover.

Fill coffee can 2/3 max with wax and liquids (I include some turps in
mine).

Place can in a 2 qt sauce pot filled with water on low heat.

When wax has completely melted, stir completely, then lift can out
with pliers and allow to cool on counter.

When cold, cover with plastic cap and store.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message

Great place for a 1lb coffee can with plastic cover.

If you're a senior in High School in 2008, you've never seen a "1lb coffee
can".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

" wrote:


Not to sound confounding here, but tung oil is known for its lack of
penetration. (I know, I know, are you ever happy, Robert?)
However, most refinishers that use PURE tung as a base coat to other
finishes thin it by about 50% or so to increase penetration.

I thinned the first coat by 50% with mineral spirits. That worked well to pop
the curl in the cherry without it getting blotchy. I used straight tung oil
for the second and third coats. After I'm done here, I'll head into the shop
and either put a fourth coat on or declare victory and wax it.

I don't agree with this Russ on a lot of things and we have
corresponded before. In this case though, you might find his articles
on BLO and tung interesting. His observations are pretty widely
accepted as are his application methods in these particular cases.

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish6.shtml

I did enjoy this. Maybe on future tung oil projects, I'll thin early coats even
more.


Me, I want to build nice things and learn new stuff. I can afford to spend the
time to experiment and I don't warrant anything.

Me, too. I just don't seem to do it anymore. I seem to learn out of
necessity these days, not for the enjoyment.

One of the great joys of retirement is that I have the time and energy to learn
something just because I want to. In my working days, it was the same as you.
What I learned was being dictated by what I had to do. Now, I'm learning
Photoshop for photography, Spanish at the local community college, reading up on
Buddhism for an upcoming trip... Life is good.

-- Doug

when I wuz a lad, cribs, teething rings etc were durable 'cos they wasn't
finished in some namby pamby wood-look nonsense. They was all properly done
in high-gloss paint with lots and lots of lead in it, and we wuz tucked up to
sleep by unwashed chain smokers with swarf under their fingernails.
never did any of us any harm and some of us are running countries nowŠ



Question seems to be between finishes that dry hard and finishes that don't
really dry completely and will still react to their solvents. Oil-based stuff
can be either, depending on oil type and proportion of medium to solvent, and
some of you guys know a lot more than I do about aspects of that. I'm really
coming at it from the point of view of a fine-arts painting background, which
has slightly different considerations, but one thing I know for certain is
not to mix synthetic and natural resins without well-provenanced
technologists' recommendations,

Polyurethane is pretty durable, as varnishes go but it can look disgusting
and "plasticky." It is, however, extremely inert and child-friendly. Use it
straight from the can or with recommended solvent only and it will dry hard
and, er, _dry_. I wouldn't use it as the basis of any sort of finish
cocktail. Ever.

Acrylics are also inert, but, like all lacquers, need multiple coats and
rubbing out to look their best. I prefer the look of lacquer to varnish for
"proper" furniture but I wouldn't finish a saucepan rack in it.

Oils? Look gorgeous, don't they? They tend to allow the wood to "breathe"
and, to some extent, balance moisture content against environmental humidity.
They also need maintenance - a certain amount of regular topping up is
required by the end user, otherwise they will dry out and eventually fail
because they work by being "wet" - think of moisturizer on dry skin.

Two packs - more properly varnishes than lacquers. Give the most unbelievable
depth of gloss. A Grand Piano finish in one coat. BUT the slightest - and I
mean the _slightest_ bit of dust in the finishing room will mar the finish
and it's nigh on impossible to rub out, The finish is as hard as glass. I
once took over two hours to flat and polish a one-inch square on a piece that
has a dust speck in it. With a cellulose or acrylic lacquer, it would have
been minutes if not seconds. You know how when you use rubbing compound on a
flour-sanded area of lacquer, the rubbing feels stiff and "frictiony" and
then suddenly "gives" and feels a slippery as ice, so you know the polish has
cut? On 2packs the transition never happens. Well, it does, eventually, but 2
hours per square inch is TAI&P, _never_ YMMV, Hercules.

finally
I wouldn't use 2 pack, and I would be wary of poly, on pine because pine
sweats resin for years, and sealing over an unstable surface doesn't strike
me as ideal. I think wax finishes are the way to go with pine generally
(think of wax as a very thick oil that won't evaporate) and will need less
frequent maintenance than oil. I would however, question its use at all on a
crib, which really leads to the conclusion that pine is perhaps not the best
crib material either, unless you consider it to be an ephemeral project with
the possible lifespan of one babyhood (well, maybe more, but I wouldn't
consider it heirloom or archival) in which case I'd lacquer it and hand rub.

These are idle insomniac musings which may have no value in the cold light of
day, so if this is all gibberish, sorry and thanks for reading

8-)