I'm to make a simple coat rack using 5 hooks mounted on a pine board.
I may be able to come across an old, wide plank to use, but I'd also
like to know of any techniques for making a new pine board look old.
I'm ok with distressing it - what I'm looking for is a finish to give
it that deep gold look, with a little black in the dents and scratches.

Thanks.

JP

I just finished some knotty pine planking for an entertainment center
where I had to
match the existing finish. I don't know what products are available
where you are,
but I started out by sanding with 100 grit, NOT using an orbital
sander. You don't have
to sand much, just to rough up the surface a little. Then apply some
Minwax sealer
and surface conditioner. Follow the instructions and then put on a
coat of Minwax
Puritan Pine woodstain. This approximates the patina that would exist
on a piece of
old wood. Wait 12 hours and apply an orangey, yellow varnish stain
like Benjamin Moore Early American. This is a very good varnish stain
that will dry enough for sanding under normal conditions in 6 hours.
The more coats of varnish stain you apply, the darker the
wood will get. I found that 2 coats did it. The sealer is very
important if you want an even finish. You can't tell the new wood from
the old. If you'd like to see what happens
if you forget to apply the sealer first, go to
www.edswoods.com/appendix. The board
on the left has no sealer and look at how splotchy it is. The picture
was taken after
the coat of Puritan Pine, before the Early American.

wrote:

if you forget to apply the sealer first, go to
www.edswoods.com/appendix. The board
on the left has no sealer and look at how splotchy it is. The picture
was taken after
the coat of Puritan Pine, before the Early American.

Thanks for the technique. I tried your link, but it didn't work.

JP

Hey Jay add the html www.edswoods.com/appendix.html thats what I did and it
worked fine.


Al

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...

wrote:

if you forget to apply the sealer first, go to
www.edswoods.com/appendix. The board
on the left has no sealer and look at how splotchy it is. The picture
was taken after
the coat of Puritan Pine, before the Early American.

Thanks for the technique. I tried your link, but it didn't work.

JP

Al wrote:
Hey Jay add the html www.edswoods.com/appendix.html thats what I did and it
worked fine.

Thanks - that worked.

The difference between those boards with and without the sealer is very
noticeable. I'll be sure to remember to do that prior to staining.

JP




"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...

wrote:

if you forget to apply the sealer first, go to
www.edswoods.com/appendix. The board
on the left has no sealer and look at how splotchy it is. The picture
was taken after
the coat of Puritan Pine, before the Early American.

Thanks for the technique. I tried your link, but it didn't work.

JP

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm to make a simple coat rack using 5 hooks mounted on a pine board.
I may be able to come across an old, wide plank to use, but I'd also
like to know of any techniques for making a new pine board look old.
I'm ok with distressing it - what I'm looking for is a finish to give
it that deep gold look, with a little black in the dents and scratches.

Boiled linseed oil, thinned 1 part to 2 thinner. Followed by 1 to 1. The
BLO was a traditional finish, and it ambers the wood nicely. Thinner helps
it dilute resin for even coverage.

Follow with distressing, if desired, and use artist oil colors as a glaze to
darken the places you want dark. Varnish of your flavor. Linseed-based
continues what you started. Brush lightly over glazed areas.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm to make a simple coat rack using 5 hooks mounted on a pine board.
I may be able to come across an old, wide plank to use, but I'd also
like to know of any techniques for making a new pine board look old.
I'm ok with distressing it - what I'm looking for is a finish to give
it that deep gold look, with a little black in the dents and scratches.

Thanks.

JP

Here's what I read somewhere and did:
Get a gallon of vinegar. Stuff pieces of fine steel wool inside. Let it sit
until the steel wool dissolves. Then pour this stuff into a spray bottle.
Spray it on the board and let it sit for a couple of days.

I'm a bit sketchy on the details... was about 3 years ago that I did this.
Not sure how long to leave the steel wool sit in the vinegar or how long to
leave the solution on the board before wiping it off and letting the board
dry.

Used this with some new pine boards to match some old ones I salvaged. Gives
them a nice weathered gray color.

"Keith Carlson" wrote in message
news:KPz1g.691696$084.163418@attbi_s22...
Here's what I read somewhere and did:
Get a gallon of vinegar. Stuff pieces of fine steel wool inside. Let it
sit until the steel wool dissolves. Then pour this stuff into a spray
bottle. Spray it on the board and let it sit for a couple of days.

I'm a bit sketchy on the details... was about 3 years ago that I did this.
Not sure how long to leave the steel wool sit in the vinegar or how long
to leave the solution on the board before wiping it off and letting the
board dry.

Used this with some new pine boards to match some old ones I salvaged.
Gives them a nice weathered gray color.


This is known to produce very dark wood in those species loaded with
tannins. Pine is not in this category.

Gray, you say? You used the proper word - weathered. He's looking for
something else. Now if you knock the soft stuff out with a wire brush prior
to adding the solution, I imagine you can get neat weathered looks.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm to make a simple coat rack using 5 hooks mounted on a pine
board.
I may be able to come across an old, wide plank to use, but I'd
also
like to know of any techniques for making a new pine board look
old.
I'm ok with distressing it - what I'm looking for is a finish to
give
it that deep gold look, with a little black in the dents and
scratches.

Thanks.

JP


The "black" can also be accomplished by burning the area with a
propane torch, just enough to lightly scorch the softer areas, then
wire brush to remove the burnt wood, leaving a blackened depression
in the softer part of the pine. Practice to determine how much heat,
wire brush and sanding to use.