I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I really want to spray these pieces I have and the pine really soaks
up the paint.

The real problem though is the end grain which really shows through.

I don't want to spackle because I may have a large qty to do.

Any techniques for "production painting" yellow pine and getting a
nice HARD coat?

mkr5000 wrote:
I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I really want to spray these pieces I have and the pine really soaks
up the paint.

The real problem though is the end grain which really shows through.

I don't want to spackle because I may have a large qty to do.

Any techniques for "production painting" yellow pine and getting a
nice HARD coat?

What is the finish coat first???

But, in general, yes, a washcoat can/will help, but specifics can depend
on what you're applying.

--

Primer?

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I really want to spray these pieces I have and the pine really soaks
up the paint.

The real problem though is the end grain which really shows through.

I don't want to spackle because I may have a large qty to do.

Any techniques for "production painting" yellow pine and getting a
nice HARD coat?

On Aug 18, 11:59*am, mkr5000 wrote:
I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I really want to spray these pieces I have and the pine really soaks
up the paint.

The real problem though is the end grain which really shows through.

I don't want to spackle because I may have a large qty to do.

Any techniques for "production painting" yellow pine and getting a
nice HARD coat?

1 sand very well
2 sand some more
3 spray on primer
4 sand
5 spray on paint
6 sand
7 spray on finish coat

I've done this with water based products and the finish is great. I
used an automotive sprayer and the amount of overspray (read mess) is
incredible. But the finished product is amazingly smooth.

Muralo paint was recommended by a BM dealer and probably can't be
beat.
http://www.muralo.net/products/ultra.php

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I really want to spray these pieces I have and the pine really soaks
up the paint.

The real problem though is the end grain which really shows through.

I don't want to spackle because I may have a large qty to do.

Any techniques for "production painting" yellow pine and getting a
nice HARD coat?


Primer for the first coat and one that is suited for the paint. The
smoother the sanded surface including the ends, the less the wood will soak
up the primer or paint.

An Alkyd Oil based paint will give a much harder finish than a latex paint .

I'll see what happens....I need this to not be very labor intensive.

I just put a dab of fresh wood filler on the "ends" and did a brief
sanding with some 400 grit.

Then put on an oil based sanding sealer with a foam brush which soaks
up quick.

I'll see what happens tomorow morning with my spray -- either straight
from the can or
my hvlp if I have to.

mkr5000 wrote:
I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain
conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

BIN works great on raw pine.

It's shellac with a white pigment.

I wonder if using some sort of sealer, like those thin pre-stain conditioners would help in painting yellow pine.

I've sometimes had pine tar resin ooze through a finish on yellow
pine. Since then, I've used KILZ sealer on yellow pine and on knots of
other softwood species to keep the resin from seeping out.

Some old timers just used shellac to seal knots.

Would this be pressure treated SYP ???

mkr5000 wrote:
I'll see what happens....I need this to not be very labor intensive.

I just put a dab of fresh wood filler on the "ends" and did a brief
sanding with some 400 grit.

Then put on an oil based sanding sealer with a foam brush which soaks
up quick.

I'll see what happens tomorow morning with my spray -- either straight
from the can or
my hvlp if I have to.

wrote:


Some old timers just used shellac to seal knots.

That's why BIN rules!

It's shellac, with a white pigment. It dries fast, sprays GREAT, and
sands far better than Kilz.

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
I'll see what happens....I need this to not be very labor intensive.

I just put a dab of fresh wood filler on the "ends" and did a brief
sanding with some 400 grit.

Then put on an oil based sanding sealer with a foam brush which soaks
up quick.

I'll see what happens tomorow morning with my spray -- either straight
from the can or
my hvlp if I have to.

If your wood was cut with a proper saw blade and/or sanded properly there
should be no need nor any way you can use wood filler on end grain. The wood
itself should be smooth not some filler stuck to it. Do it right the first
time and it will work properly.

EXT wrote:

If your wood was cut with a proper saw blade and/or sanded properly
there should be no need nor any way you can use wood filler on end
grain. The wood itself should be smooth not some filler stuck to it. Do
it right the first time and it will work properly.


Without knowing what look the OP is after, he certainly may need a
sealer on end grain.

Even if I finish pine end grain with a sharp low angle block plane, raw,
unsealed end grain will definitely telegraph through paint.