On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 02:44:45 +0000, Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Jack Stein" wrote:

If they supplied just the bearings would you have any qualms making the
wheels out of plywood?

For me, NBD, but see below.

If you are going to use plywood as a core, then you want to totally
encapsulate it with epoxy and fiber glass.

The plywood is now totally sealed, and you are no longer dealing with
wood other than as a core material.


Snip complete howto

As I said, straight forward construction, just a PITA to do it.


Yes, but... given that this bandsaw will be sat in the same place where I
store my wood, and isn't subject to the raw heat of Arizona or the bitter
cold of Alaska, why *shouldn't* I just take the much simpler route of
just making it direct from plywood and varnishing it?

I can that your route makes it virtually indestructible and it will last
forever, but if it's 1/4 of the work to make it from raw ply then it can
wear out four times before I break even...

"PCPaul" wrote:

Yes, but... given that this bandsaw will be sat in the same place
where I
store my wood, and isn't subject to the raw heat of Arizona or the
bitter
cold of Alaska, why *shouldn't* I just take the much simpler route
of
just making it direct from plywood and varnishing it?

Knock yourself out.

Lew

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:35:51 GMT, PCPaul wrote:

I'm repairing a two wheel bandsaw and need a top wheel for it. OEM spares
are very expensive (£100+, ~$200) so I was wondering if a 12" bicycle
wheel could be used?

Yes, however a good quality bike wheel, well built on a decent hub, will
cost more than a bandsaw wheel. A junkyard bike wheel, with poor quality
spokes and no tension, won't do it.

If you really care, go over to rec.bikes.tech and ask Jobst Brandt, the
guy who wrote the book (literally) on bike wheel theory. If you just
want to tweak up a wheel to run true, go to the late, great Sheldon
Brown's website and read the step-by-step instructions.

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Andy Dingley wrote:

If you really care, go over to rec.bikes.tech and ask Jobst Brandt, the
guy who wrote the book (literally) on bike wheel theory.

Read and understand the book first, or risk humiliation. G

If you just
want to tweak up a wheel to run true, go to the late, great Sheldon
Brown's website and read the step-by-step instructions.


That was a shame... A loss far too early.

Why not look at Grainger or McMaster Carr?

They have a bunch of varied size rigid pulley type wheels for a fraction of
what you are looking at doing.

I don't think a bike wheel will hold the tension you need to run a bandsaw
blade true.





"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:35:51 GMT, PCPaul wrote:

I'm repairing a two wheel bandsaw and need a top wheel for it. OEM spares
are very expensive (£100+, ~$200) so I was wondering if a 12" bicycle
wheel could be used?

Yes, however a good quality bike wheel, well built on a decent hub, will
cost more than a bandsaw wheel. A junkyard bike wheel, with poor quality
spokes and no tension, won't do it.

If you really care, go over to rec.bikes.tech and ask Jobst Brandt, the
guy who wrote the book (literally) on bike wheel theory. If you just
want to tweak up a wheel to run true, go to the late, great Sheldon
Brown's website and read the step-by-step instructions.

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 22:57:07 +0000, Jay R wrote:

Why not look at Grainger or McMaster Carr?

They have a bunch of varied size rigid pulley type wheels for a fraction
of what you are looking at doing.


I would, but I'm in the UK. And we don't seem to have places that sell
general engineering stuff to the public (or for sane prices)..

Unless anybody knows different? (I'm near Gloucester if that helps)

I don't think a bike wheel will hold the tension you need to run a
bandsaw blade true.

Well I know a 12" kids bike wheel can hold my weight and I'm 200lbs, so
it's in the ballpark for 1/4" blades. As others have said though, the
bearings might not last too long...

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 20:51:01 GMT, PCPaul wrote:


I can that your route makes it virtually indestructible and it will last
forever, but if it's 1/4 of the work to make it from raw ply then it can
wear out four times before I break even...

Probably true, but being paranoid, I rather not be using the saw when one wore
out/broke up...

I guess finding a junked saw the same as yours with one good wheel isn't an
option?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 23:05:43 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:


"PCPaul" wrote:

Yes, but... given that this bandsaw will be sat in the same place
where I
store my wood, and isn't subject to the raw heat of Arizona or the
bitter
cold of Alaska, why *shouldn't* I just take the much simpler route
of
just making it direct from plywood and varnishing it?

Knock yourself out.

Lew

that's sort of what I'd be afraid of doing.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 11:27:37 GMT, PCPaul wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 22:57:07 +0000, Jay R wrote:

Why not look at Grainger or McMaster Carr?

They have a bunch of varied size rigid pulley type wheels for a fraction
of what you are looking at doing.


I would, but I'm in the UK. And we don't seem to have places that sell
general engineering stuff to the public (or for sane prices)..

Unless anybody knows different? (I'm near Gloucester if that helps)

I don't think a bike wheel will hold the tension you need to run a
bandsaw blade true.

Well I know a 12" kids bike wheel can hold my weight and I'm 200lbs, so
it's in the ballpark for 1/4" blades. As others have said though, the
bearings might not last too long...

No math to prove myself right or wrong, but it seems that putting weight on a
wheel and tire mounted on a bike is not the same force/pressure as putting a
steel band around 1/2 of it and tightening it until the blade "pings"?

Still sort of downward force, I guess, but different tension/angles?

Can you tell that I failed math?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:43:44 -0700, mac davis wrote:

On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 11:27:37 GMT, PCPaul wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 22:57:07 +0000, Jay R wrote:

Why not look at Grainger or McMaster Carr?

They have a bunch of varied size rigid pulley type wheels for a
fraction of what you are looking at doing.


I would, but I'm in the UK. And we don't seem to have places that sell
general engineering stuff to the public (or for sane prices)..

Unless anybody knows different? (I'm near Gloucester if that helps)

I don't think a bike wheel will hold the tension you need to run a
bandsaw blade true.

Well I know a 12" kids bike wheel can hold my weight and I'm 200lbs, so
it's in the ballpark for 1/4" blades. As others have said though, the
bearings might not last too long...

No math to prove myself right or wrong, but it seems that putting weight
on a wheel and tire mounted on a bike is not the same force/pressure as
putting a steel band around 1/2 of it and tightening it until the blade
"pings"?

Still sort of downward force, I guess, but different tension/angles?

Can you tell that I failed math?

Well as far as I can see, the force at any particular point should be
towards the centre - otherwise the blade wouldn't be tightly wrapped onto
the wheel...

....and bike wheels are designed to handle the full load (say 200lbs) on
*one* point in contact with the ground - so having the same load spread
over half the wheel ought to be better.

I think.

:-)

On Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:43:44 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

No math to prove myself right or wrong, but it seems that putting weight on a
wheel and tire mounted on a bike is not the same force/pressure as putting a
steel band around 1/2 of it and tightening it until the blade "pings"?

Yes, it's quite different. The axle (fixed) on a bandsaw wheel is
cantilevered and "overhung", that on a bike is supported from both sides
by the fork. This also means that a bike's load-bearing axle is
particularly short - the bearings are mounted at the outer ends of the
axle. Where they're mounted away from this, towards the middle of the
axles (old 7-speed screw-on rear blocks) the axles started to break.
Later designs (Shimano cassettes) moved the bearings back out again and
had reliable axles again.

A rare exception to this would be a Mike Burrows (e.g. Adam
Hart-Davies') or a Canondale "Lefty" with a single-sided fork and an
overhung front axle.

As far as the _wheel_ goes though, bandsaw tensions aren't a problem for
a decent bike wheel. The impact loading is also _much_ reduced.


A workshop I'm vaguely associated with has an old Victorian multi-tool
machine that I restored - planer (removed), horizontal borer and
bandsaw. The bandsaw wheels were rolled iron hoops (18" - 20" ish AFAIR)
on cast iron hubs. As the original spokes looked dubious, we replaced
these with bike-spoke tech, all according to Jobst's book. Works fine.


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replying to clare at snyder dot ontario do, Goo ger wrote:
https://youtu.be/zBn5uyRd95o band saw wheel building.

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