view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 05:08:09 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

That's pretty cool!
I have a problem with my router table that could be helped a lot by this..

The only obvious change that I'd make, as I work a lot with rare earth magnets,
is to NOT epoxy the magnet to the foot..
For a couple of bucks, you can get matching cups for them.. easier to
mount/reuse and a stronger hold..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42363,42348


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/



Well it looks good on paper but how stable is it if you are pushing on it?
Don't you push it to get it back on it's wheels? There seems to be a lot of
stress on those piano hinges.

I am looking for a simple design for a bigger work bench and am looking more
towards lowering and raising the wheels. Something not totally unlike the
way the PM 2000 TS moves around.

"Leon" wrote:


I am looking for a simple design for a bigger work bench and am looking
more towards lowering and raising the wheels. Something not totally
unlike the way the PM 2000 TS moves around.

The solution used on the Delta Table Saw mobile base works well.

You won't go wrong patterning your solution after it.

Lew

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
I am looking for a simple design for a bigger work bench and am looking
more
towards lowering and raising the wheels. Something not totally unlike
the
way the PM 2000 TS moves around.

How about the rolling work bench plans video. See ABPW.



Yeah I remember that one. My concern is the work bench is probably going to
be a traditionally style, thick top, with a storage chest below. Weight is
probably going to be up there and I really don't want to do any lifting to
get it up on it's wheels or visa versa.
I would not mind inexpensive hydraulic bottle jacks to lower the wheels or
some type of screw jack.

Thanks for the reminder.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:F%Pdk.19$av4.15@trnddc04...

"Leon" wrote:


I am looking for a simple design for a bigger work bench and am looking
more towards lowering and raising the wheels. Something not totally
unlike the way the PM 2000 TS moves around.

The solution used on the Delta Table Saw mobile base works well.

A seperate mobile base?

I'll have to think about that, I curently have added 5 mobile bases to the
pieces of equipment that do not have built in mobility.
I'm actually hoping to go a bit more elegant but that would certainly would
be a way to go. Thanks for the reminder.

"Leon" wrote in message
I am looking for a simple design for a bigger work bench and am looking
more
towards lowering and raising the wheels. Something not totally unlike the
way the PM 2000 TS moves around.

How about the rolling work bench plans video. See ABPW.

"Leon" wrote:

A seperate mobile base?

Yep, a simple step-on over center crank to bring the wheel into play.

Simple, Safe, LowCost.

3 out of 3 ain't bad.

Lew

On Jul 11, 6:37*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Leon" wrote:
A seperate mobile base?

Yep, a simple step-on over center crank to bring the wheel into play.

Simple, Safe, LowCost.

3 out of 3 ain't bad.

Lew

can you explain more?

In article ,
says...

Well it looks good on paper but how stable is it if you are pushing on it?
Don't you push it to get it back on it's wheels? There seems to be a lot of
stress on those piano hinges.


I have totally worked around that problem by doing it the other
way round with my over-and-under planer/thicknesser: It's the
wheels that fold down, not the support. So when in use, it
stands on its own sturdy feet, and when I want to move it, I
fold down the wheels, lock the fold-down assembly with a small
pushbolt and away we go.
-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

I don't understand why you don't just start with locking wheels - two
non-swivel on one end and swivel on the other. They make swivel
wheels which can have both the wheel rotation AND swivel lock. No
lifting the cabinet that 1/4.

charlie b

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 05:08:09 -0700, Limp Arbor wrote:

view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

The easiest thing to use that I have found to keep any thing that rolls in
one place temporarily is a short length of chain that I whip around the
base of any caster wheel, from one on a cabinet to the caster on a utility
trailer. The chain can be sized from small ball type chain that is used as
a pull cord for a ceiling fan for small casters on cabinets to 5/16 link
chain for the utility trailer. Match the size chain to the size of the
caster.

"charlieb" wrote in message
I don't understand why you don't just start with locking wheels - two
non-swivel on one end and swivel on the other. They make swivel
wheels which can have both the wheel rotation AND swivel lock.

Good idea. I bought these ones from LV when I was moving my 600 lb
entertainment centre into my apartment over twelve years ago. I made myself
two sets of dollies using these casters and have been using these dollies
ever since for other stuff. They're an excellent set of locking wheels.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...0133&cat=1,240

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 08:58:15 -0400, RLM wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 05:08:09 -0700, Limp Arbor wrote:

view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

The easiest thing to use that I have found to keep any thing that rolls in
one place temporarily is a short length of chain that I whip around the
base of any caster wheel, from one on a cabinet to the caster on a utility
trailer. The chain can be sized from small ball type chain that is used as
a pull cord for a ceiling fan for small casters on cabinets to 5/16 link
chain for the utility trailer. Match the size chain to the size of the
caster.
Murphy's law would indicate that I should wrap castors with electrical cords..
Seems like every time I try to roll something, that's what stops it.. ;-[


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

When I put my bench on 6 3" castors, I was concerned about having to
chase it around the shop when I did planing, etc.

I planned to make 2-4 wedges that I could kick under the edge of the
bench, for stability. They'd were gonna have a handle or something on
them so I could jerk them out when I wanted to move the bench.

When I got done, the darn thing was so heavy that I have to heave with
all my weight just to budge it. Haven't needed the wedges.

I still think they were a good, simple idea, and will try them on the
next piece of rolling stock I make.

Old Guy

On Jul 13, 11:31*am, mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 08:58:15 -0400, RLM wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 05:08:09 -0700, Limp Arbor wrote:

view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

The easiest thing to use that I have found to keep any thing that rolls in
one place temporarily is a short length of chain that I whip around the
base of any caster wheel, from one on a cabinet to the caster on a utility
trailer. The chain can be sized from small ball type chain that is used as
a pull cord for a ceiling fan for small casters on cabinets to 5/16 link
chain for the utility trailer. Match the size chain to the size of the
caster.

Murphy's law would indicate that I should wrap castors with electrical cords..
Seems like every time I try to roll something, that's what stops it.. ;-[

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hello,

FWIW, I just happened to see the "Work Table and Clamp Cart" episode of The
New Yankee Workshop recently, where Norm built a rolling work table that
could be made stationary by pulling up on a cord that was attached to two
hinged wooden blocks that locked a board (one on each end of the table) with
two wheels attached to it in place.

As they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words. Hope this helps.

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207

Peter.

"Old Guy" wrote in message
...
When I put my bench on 6 3" castors, I was concerned about having to
chase it around the shop when I did planing, etc.

I planned to make 2-4 wedges that I could kick under the edge of the
bench, for stability. They'd were gonna have a handle or something on
them so I could jerk them out when I wanted to move the bench.

When I got done, the darn thing was so heavy that I have to heave with
all my weight just to budge it. Haven't needed the wedges.

I still think they were a good, simple idea, and will try them on the
next piece of rolling stock I make.

Old Guy

On Jul 13, 11:31 am, mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 08:58:15 -0400, RLM wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 05:08:09 -0700, Limp Arbor wrote:

view he

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2008/07/10/ws/

The easiest thing to use that I have found to keep any thing that rolls
in
one place temporarily is a short length of chain that I whip around the
base of any caster wheel, from one on a cabinet to the caster on a
utility
trailer. The chain can be sized from small ball type chain that is used
as
a pull cord for a ceiling fan for small casters on cabinets to 5/16 link
chain for the utility trailer. Match the size chain to the size of the
caster.

Murphy's law would indicate that I should wrap castors with electrical
cords..
Seems like every time I try to roll something, that's what stops it.. ;-[

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"cc" wrote:

can you explain more?

Make you a deal.

Go look at the actual Delta Mobile Base.

If you need more info after that, will try to help.


--
Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"cc" wrote:

can you explain more?

Make you a deal.

Go look at the actual Delta Mobile Base.

If you need more info after that, will try to help.

I used two heavy duty wheels and just the swivel lift mechanism from the
Delta Mobile Base for my table saw/Jointer cabinet. There is a LOT of
weight on the thing but is is not hard to lift one end while stepping on
the swivel to lift just one end. Works perfect and is super stable.

You can see some pictures of the cabinet he

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2391590...7603932038342/

Click on +all sizes to see the larger picture.

--
Jack
http://jbstein.com

These folks carry a LOT of industrial type products.

http://www.reidsupply.com/results.as...o=0&On=1005761

Leon wrote:


Yeah I remember that one. My concern is the work bench is probably going to
be a traditionally style, thick top, with a storage chest below. Weight is
probably going to be up there and I really don't want to do any lifting to
get it up on it's wheels or visa versa.

Here are some other ideas:

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...search=Leveler

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...search=Leveler


Leon wrote:


Yeah I remember that one. My concern is the work bench is probably going to
be a traditionally style, thick top, with a storage chest below.