Recently finished construction, painting my 20'x24' shop. Raftered
roof, 5/12 pitch, 8' walls. The roof has gable and soffit vents. It
also has it's own 100 amp service. T-111 siding with foamboard on the
center sections and OSB on the corners.

My question is regarding insulation and wall covering. I have not
insulated yet (1 bill at a time!) and was thinking about doing R19 in
between the joists and R11 in the walls. (I'm in the mid-south - think
Memphis). I feel like this would be adequate in the winter months,
but will it do anything for me in the hot, humid summers (I'll buy a
window A/C next year.) Should I have anything directly under the roof
decking & rafters?

Also, are the any options to drywall for a ceiling and walls? I loved
Matthew Teagues idea of using the T-111 on the _in_side for a wall
covering, namely it's strength, and I really hate sheetrock, but the
T-111 would be expensive. Ideas?

Finally, would it make much difference to just lay drywall on top of
the joists and then the insulation on top of that? (I'm thinking I'd
like to use the joists for hanging things, and gain that extra 5.5" of
space.

Thanks for any ideas!
Duke

Dukester asks:


Also, are the any options to drywall for a ceiling and walls? I loved
Matthew Teagues idea of using the T-111 on the _in_side for a wall
covering, namely it's strength, and I really hate sheetrock, but the
T-111 would be expensive. Ideas?

OSB...7/16" for ceiling; 5/8" for walls. Seems like right now, though, it's all
expensive, at a time when prices have usually dropped quite a bit. I'd sit on
it for 6-8 weeks and see if late January, early February bring their usual
reduction in prices.
Finally, would it make much difference to just lay drywall on top of
the joists and then the insulation on top of that? (I'm thinking I'd
like to use the joists for hanging things, and gain that extra 5.5" of
space.

Use OSB. I don't see that it would make any real difference, but I'd make sure
to at least lightly nail the covering to the topsides of the joists. It does
make it difficult, in attics, because you would be likely to step on the cover,
which, with light OSB or Sheetrock, is an invitation to a screwed up knee when
your foot goes through. If the place is accessible only by crawling, etc., it's
less of a problem.

Charlie Self

"In the final choice a soldier's pack is not so heavy as a prisoner's chains."
Dwight D. Eisenhower

Put in an attic fan with a thermostat. That way it will automatically kick
in at the temp you select. I have seen some which run off solar panels. No
cost to run and cost about $100. Having one of these is a must, cycles the
hot air out of the attic.

Here's an idea for wall covering: I put in slatwall and it's worked out
well for me. I bought all of it at an auction for a great price, but since
the stuff is used in many retail stores there must be a market for used
pieces. I suspect there is a dealer near you that sells used retail stuff.
It's surprisingly strong and provides the ultimate in adaptability for those
of us that haven't figured out yet the optimal location for everything. The
stuff is pricey new though; roughly $50 a 4x8 sheet and up depending on
type. The brackets are pricey too.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"Dukester" wrote in message
om...
Recently finished construction, painting my 20'x24' shop. Raftered
roof, 5/12 pitch, 8' walls. The roof has gable and soffit vents. It
also has it's own 100 amp service. T-111 siding with foamboard on the
center sections and OSB on the corners.

My question is regarding insulation and wall covering. I have not
insulated yet (1 bill at a time!) and was thinking about doing R19 in
between the joists and R11 in the walls. (I'm in the mid-south - think
Memphis). I feel like this would be adequate in the winter months,
but will it do anything for me in the hot, humid summers (I'll buy a
window A/C next year.) Should I have anything directly under the roof
decking & rafters?

Also, are the any options to drywall for a ceiling and walls? I loved
Matthew Teagues idea of using the T-111 on the _in_side for a wall
covering, namely it's strength, and I really hate sheetrock, but the
T-111 would be expensive. Ideas?

Finally, would it make much difference to just lay drywall on top of
the joists and then the insulation on top of that? (I'm thinking I'd
like to use the joists for hanging things, and gain that extra 5.5" of
space.

Thanks for any ideas!
Duke

I've got 1/4" plywood on all wall surfaces in a converted single car
garaged. There is an exposed three foot high concrete foundation, vapor
barrier, then foil covered foam board insulated walls. The joists on the
remaining vertical walls have been daughtered to meet the edge of the
insulation, thereby giving me flat plywood walls. I bought the one side
finished plywood, at the time it wasn't that expensive, and any defects
where fixed after it went up. If I need structural strength, I support
anything I do, (shelves, etc.) with underneath supports.
T-111 is okay but kinda rough for an interior wall.

Dave

"Dukester" wrote in message
om...
Recently finished construction, painting my 20'x24' shop. Raftered
roof, 5/12 pitch, 8' walls. The roof has gable and soffit vents. It
also has it's own 100 amp service. T-111 siding with foamboard on the
center sections and OSB on the corners.

My question is regarding insulation and wall covering. I have not
insulated yet (1 bill at a time!) and was thinking about doing R19 in
between the joists and R11 in the walls. (I'm in the mid-south - think
Memphis). I feel like this would be adequate in the winter months,
but will it do anything for me in the hot, humid summers (I'll buy a
window A/C next year.) Should I have anything directly under the roof
decking & rafters?

Also, are the any options to drywall for a ceiling and walls? I loved
Matthew Teagues idea of using the T-111 on the _in_side for a wall
covering, namely it's strength, and I really hate sheetrock, but the
T-111 would be expensive. Ideas?

Finally, would it make much difference to just lay drywall on top of
the joists and then the insulation on top of that? (I'm thinking I'd
like to use the joists for hanging things, and gain that extra 5.5" of
space.

Thanks for any ideas!
Duke

On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 02:21:23 GMT, "David Babcock"
wrote:

T-111 is okay but kinda rough for an interior wall.

Psst, Dave... you misspelled T1-11.

Michael
No, really. See gp.com.

Charlie Self wrote:

It does make it difficult, in attics, because you would be likely to step
on the cover, which, with light OSB or Sheetrock, is an invitation to a
screwed up knee when your foot goes through. If the place is accessible

*Ouch*! I just had a vision of a dislocated knee cap. That's a really good
thing to keep in mind in a situation like that, and something I'd have
probably never thought of until afterwards. shudder

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

I insulated then used good ol pegboard. I can hang anything anywhere! Here
at the local HD you can get unfinished for about $10 or white for $13. For
someone like me who hates to paint walls the finished was my choice!

Jim


"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com" mbaglioNOSPAM wrote in message
...
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 02:21:23 GMT, "David Babcock"
wrote:

T-111 is okay but kinda rough for an interior wall.

Psst, Dave... you misspelled T1-11.

Michael
No, really. See gp.com.