I've been reading about using buffing wheels as the final step in
honing/polishing a plane or chisel and there is always discussion
about "rounding off the bevel" and it's implied that this is bad.
What exactly does that mean, how does it happen, and what's bad about
it?

Thanks.

Charles

On Feb 25, 8:31 am, wrote:
I've been reading about using buffing wheels as the final step in
honing/polishing a plane or chisel and there is always discussion
about "rounding off the bevel" and it's implied that this is bad.
What exactly does that mean, how does it happen, and what's bad about
it?

It means that you 'round off the bevel', it happens when too much time/
pressure/agression is used on the wheel and because the wheel isn't a
flat plane, and it dulls the blade you worked so hard to get sharp.
The final steps in sharpening are tiny adjustments and power tools are
not needed.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Feb 25, 8:31 am, wrote:
I've been reading about using buffing wheels as the final step in
honing/polishing a plane or chisel and there is always discussion
about "rounding off the bevel" and it's implied that this is bad.
What exactly does that mean, how does it happen, and what's bad about
it?

It means that you 'round off the bevel', it happens when too much time/
pressure/agression is used on the wheel and because the wheel isn't a
flat plane, and it dulls the blade you worked so hard to get sharp.
The final steps in sharpening are tiny adjustments and power tools are
not needed.


Strops made of hard felt, or leather over disks charged with fine compound
do a great job on an edge. You strop with the wheel running away from the
edge and don't press the tool into the compound/surface, and you won't round
over.

Whether or not you need a stropped edge on a plane iron is up to you. On a
chisel, never. OTOH, carving tools designed for hand power benefit greatly.

wrote in message
...
I've been reading about using buffing wheels as the final step in
honing/polishing a plane or chisel and there is always discussion
about "rounding off the bevel" and it's implied that this is bad.
What exactly does that mean, how does it happen, and what's bad about
it?

Thanks.

Charles

Better to sharpen, buff to polish that surface and then return to the stone,
increase the grind angle 1 - 2 degrees and create a micro bevel by making
"1" or "2" passes, no more.
The polished edge decreases friction on the larger surfaces that come in
contact with the wood. The micro bevel is very small, typically 1/64" -
1/32" in width and does not create much drag.
Then a return trip to the buffing wheel for a "moment" to remove the wire
edge created when grinding the micro bevel.

Charles

The kind of buffing wheel you use for this is called a "hard felt
buff" and it is very dense almost as hard as a piece of wood.
When you round the edge over you increase the force needed to use the
tool, not good.
With a hard felt buff and compound you can deburr,hone and microbevel
in one pass.
A good hard felt buff is $40 us or more for 6"

It does not matter how sharp the tool is if the cutting edge itself is
not the first part of the tool to contact the work.

Daily Grind

Depends on what type of wheel and compound you use. Only black, brown
and white will take off metal. Red and blue will definately just
polish. There's a good guide to polishing metal at
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm. The pdf on that page
has some great info on wheel types, grits and materials. I've tried
buffing plane blades to slicken them up but didn't notice a difference
in use.

What exactly does that mean

Basically, it means you're changing the edge from a V shape to a U
shape. Ideally, a buffing wheel that's "charged" with honing compound
can put a very nice final polish on edge tools, and polish out the
tiny scratches left by your finest sharpening stone, leaving the edge
even sharper. However, it's relatively easy to actually make the edge
worse on a buffing wheel - rounding over occurs if you hold the blade
against the wheel for too long or if you hold it at the wrong angle.

You can achieve a similar effect by "stropping" on a piece of thick,
hard leather that's been charged with honing compound. Set the
leather on a flat surface, and hone the blade with a motions that lead
away from the cutting edge. In other words, you shouldn't be using a
shaving motion that would let the blade gouge the leather - push or
pull it the other direction. I prefer this as I feel like I have more
control, and it moves slower than a power wheel so you can't mess it
up as quickly.

Hope this helps,
Andy

On Feb 25, 8:31 am, wrote:
I've been reading about using buffing wheels as the final step in
honing/polishing a plane or chisel and there is always discussion
about "rounding off the bevel" and it's implied that this is bad.
What exactly does that mean, how does it happen, and what's bad about
it?

Thanks.

Charles

Try to *lightly* buff about 1/8" back from the edge. The
wheel will depress just enough to strop the actual edge
without taking it out of flat. If it does go out of flat, a
couple of strokes across your fine stone will fix it.

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:42:44 -0800 (PST), Andy
wrote:

You can achieve a similar effect by "stropping" on a piece of thick,
hard leather that's been charged with honing compound.

A Tormek does the same.

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:45:42 -0500, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:42:44 -0800 (PST), Andy
wrote:

You can achieve a similar effect by "stropping" on a piece of thick,
hard leather that's been charged with honing compound.

A Tormek does the same.


You can also use a scrap piece of MDF charged with honing compound to
strop the knife. Sounds funny but it works very well.

On Feb 28, 11:12 am, Modat22 wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:45:42 -0500, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"

wrote:
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:42:44 -0800 (PST), Andy
wrote:

You can achieve a similar effect by "stropping" on a piece of thick,
hard leather that's been charged with honing compound.

A Tormek does the same.

You can also use a scrap piece of MDF charged with honing compound to
strop the knife. Sounds funny but it works very well.

Chrome green watercolor on a strip of plywood.