I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference. When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

EugeneC173 wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference. When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Ditto Nova

Jim


"Nova" wrote in message
...
EugeneC173 wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...
My understanding of kickback is that it's caused when a piece of stock,
caught between the blade and fence, begins to rotate into the blade. Because
the fence won't move, the stock gets pinched and the blade hurls the piece
forward with great force. If the stock can't rotate into the blade, then the
kickback won't occur. In the case of the miter guage with stop, you are
holding the workpiece to the guage, so it can't rotate into the blade.
Personally, I would not be concerned about drawing the stock back.
Bruce
Nova wrote in message
...
EugeneC173 wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Good technique suggests not drawing the workpiece back along the spinning
blade, ever. You can get a kickback from cut-offs, too, even without the fence
there. DAMHIKT. Tom
Subject: Tablesaw Safety question!
From: "Bruce Adams"
Date: 11/11/2003 9:40 PM US Mountain Standard Time
Message-id:

I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...
My understanding of kickback is that it's caused when a piece of stock,
caught between the blade and fence, begins to rotate into the blade. Because
the fence won't move, the stock gets pinched and the blade hurls the piece
forward with great force. If the stock can't rotate into the blade, then the
kickback won't occur. In the case of the miter guage with stop, you are
holding the workpiece to the guage, so it can't rotate into the blade.
Personally, I would not be concerned about drawing the stock back.
Bruce
Nova wrote in message
...
EugeneC173 wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)



Someday, it'll all be over....

I take advantage of a bit of play in the slot, cutting with pressure right,
drawing back with pressure left. If I forget, no great sweat, as the edges
of the teeth are the only possible point of contact, and they are pushing
the piece into the table.

Greater danger lies in reaching to clear the cutoff.


"EugeneC173" wrote in message
...
I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge
with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until
it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do
it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently,
there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

On 12 Nov 2003 02:24:50 GMT, (EugeneC173) wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference. When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene


Not sure wha tyou are saying. "Trapped piece" is a clue that you are
sliding the piece with your miter gauge with the piece sliding against
the fence while passing it through the blade. That's situation should
be avoided by clamping an alignment board against the fence such that
the piece leaves that alignment board before the piece reaches the saw
blade. Small pieces can vibrate toward the back of the blade and fly
off in any sirection too. I read that a table saw blade runs at 100
MPH.

Phisherman wrote:
I read that a table saw blade runs at 100 MPH.

Yeah, that's about right. On a 10-inch blade running at 3000 RPM, the
tip speed works out to slightly over 89 MPH.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 07:31:53 -0500, "George"
wrote:

I take advantage of a bit of play in the slot, cutting with pressure right,
drawing back with pressure left. If I forget, no great sweat, as the edges
of the teeth are the only possible point of contact, and they are pushing
the piece into the table.

Greater danger lies in reaching to clear the cutoff.


Yeah. It is tempting to take away the cutoff piece. Norm gave me the
willies a couple times remove the cut-off piece with his fingers. I
either turn off the saw and "freeze" until the blade stops or slide
the cutoff away from the blade using one of my narrow pushsticks. I
keep 3 or 4 different pushsticks on my Beisemeyer fence, wher ethey
are easy to use and convenient. Safety has a lot to do with working
without being in a rush.

Phisherman wrote:

Yeah. It is tempting to take away the cutoff piece. Norm gave me the
willies a couple times remove the cut-off piece with his fingers. I
either turn off the saw and "freeze" until the blade stops or slide
the cutoff away from the blade using one of my narrow pushsticks. I
keep 3 or 4 different pushsticks on my Beisemeyer fence, wher ethey
are easy to use and convenient. Safety has a lot to do with working
without being in a rush.

The author of one of the table saw books I read uses blasts of compressed
air to clear cutoffs. It is especially handy when using a pattern jig that
covers the right side of the blade.

-- Mark

Not sure wha tyou are saying. "Trapped piece" is a clue that you are
sliding the piece with your miter gauge with the piece sliding against
the fence while passing it through the blade. That's situation should
be avoided by clamping an alignment board against the fence such that
the piece leaves that alignment board before the piece reaches the saw
blade. Small pieces can vibrate toward the back of the blade and fly
off in any sirection too. I read that a table saw blade runs at 100
MPH.





No, the piece is trapped between the stop on the fence and the blade. The fence
isn't in the picture.

Gene

I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...
My understanding of kickback is that it's caused when a piece of stock,
caught between the blade and fence, begins to rotate into the blade. Because
the fence won't move, the stock gets pinched and the blade hurls the piece
forward with great force. If the stock can't rotate into the blade, then the
kickback won't occur. In the case of the miter guage with stop, you are
holding the workpiece to the guage, so it can't rotate into the blade.
Personally, I would not be concerned about drawing the stock back.
Bruce

Bruce,

You make a very good point, the stock really can't rotate into the blade with
the miter gauge behind it. Any other opinions on this?

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed off
the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
miter gauge.

Jack,

Your method would be the absolute safest method. Thanks for your input.....

Gene

"EugeneC173" wrote in message
...
I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...

Bruce,

You make a very good point, the stock really can't rotate into the blade
with
the miter gauge behind it. Any other opinions on this?

Gene


True. One wrong move though and OUCH the nice clean cut edge could have a
big nick or so could your head.

Cutting a 1" wide piece, maybe I'll bring it back, cutting a 10" wide piece,
no, I'm not going to and in fact cannot because my pawls prevent it. I'd
still not do it anyway once past the blade that far.
Ed

EugeneC173 wrote:

You make a very good point, the stock really can't rotate into the blade with
the miter gauge behind it. Any other opinions on this?

Gene

The problem is, because you are retracting the miter gauge, it's in front of the
stock due to the direction of travel. The stock can easily rotate off the gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)