I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...
My understanding of kickback is that it's caused when a piece of stock,
caught between the blade and fence, begins to rotate into the blade. Because
the fence won't move, the stock gets pinched and the blade hurls the piece
forward with great force. If the stock can't rotate into the blade, then the
kickback won't occur. In the case of the miter guage with stop, you are
holding the workpiece to the guage, so it can't rotate into the blade.
Personally, I would not be concerned about drawing the stock back.
Bruce
Nova wrote in message
...
EugeneC173 wrote:

I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......

Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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