I've experimented before with 50/50 thinned Titebond II as a
finish. Dried pretty quickly, clear, and seemb to be holding up well on
the few pieces I've used it on.

I'd made a jig a week or so ago to cut octagons for chess piece
bases. I'd been carrying the trial piece around in my pocket to look at
occassionally. I'd used a piece of scrap OSB to make it, and one side
was pretty smooth, with the other side slightly less smooth. I'd got
some Elmers white glue awhile back to 'speerment with (hey, it was 20
cants a bottle at Wally-World), so had thinned some of it too. The
Elmers seems to work OK, but I still prefer Titebond II. Also found a
couple of bottles of some made in Mongolia, from dead yaks, or
somewhere, so figured I'd get some to compare.

The yak glue is a total write off. Multiple coats look good, but
they easily peel. Forget that. But the Elmers and the Titebond both
give a nice smooth finish. I put multiple coats on both sides of the
octagon, and the more coats, the deeper the finish looks. I didn't
bother using sandpaper or steel wool between coats, which I think wouold
improve the looks a lot, but even so I think it looks probably as good
as poly, and is a lot less expensive.

I know the Titebond is diluted 50/50. The Elmers I'm not so sure
about, it's definitely thinned, but seems to be thicker than the thinned
Titebond. All that means really is I'd need to use more coats of
Titebond to get an equal thickness. Could use unthined too, but that
usually takes longer to dry. I use thinned to glue paper labels down
anyway, find it works a lot btter than the unthinned, so use the thinned
version as a finish coat too.

I don't like the smell of the oil-based poly, and the water-based
seems to works as well anyway, with a lot easier cleanup. As far as I
can tell so far, the thinned Titebond gives as good a finish as the
water-base poly, costs less, and seems to be holding up well. I've only
been using two coats, but in the future I think I'll try thee or four
coats, to see if that's any better, or what.

Oh yeah, I've got a small chunk of the oak flooring my older son
gave me in the house, a piece about 3-4 inches long. I tried about 3
coats of the Elmers on the top, and it smoothed it up, and now looks
like it was varnished. Not bad. So, now I'm trying the Titebond on the
bottom, looks promosing so far. It's like Granny Weatherwas says.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax

J T wrote:

Oh yeah, I've got a small chunk of the oak flooring my older
son gave me in the house, a piece about 3-4 inches long. I tried
about 3 coats of the Elmers on the top, and it smoothed it up, and
now looks like it was varnished.

Just don't get it wet...

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Wed, Nov 28, 2007, 9:20pm (EST+5) (dadiOH) doth
sayeth:
Just don't get it wet...

Water-resistant.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax

On Nov 28, 8:28 am, (J T) wrote:
I've experimented before with 50/50 thinned Titebond II as a
finish. Dried pretty quickly, clear, and seemb to be holding up well on
the few pieces I've used it on.

That's a polyvinyl acetate glue (PVA), and PVA finishes are not
unknown.
The main use isn't a top coat, though, just a primer. After all,
it does ... stick... well.

I've used glue as a finish for wood pieces of jigs (and featherboards)
so they'd have good friction when clamped. I'm not sure about
other uses, though, it has water and heat sensitivity worse than
shellac (which is pretty easy and more convenient to apply).

On Nov 28, 11:28 am, (J T) wrote:
I've experimented before with 50/50 thinned Titebond II as a
finish. Dried pretty quickly, clear, and seemb to be holding up well on
the few pieces I've used it on.

JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax

JOAT,

I like ya because your a man who will try off the wall stuff.

But, why?

Roy

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 4:26pm (EST-3) (ROYNEU) doth query:
I like ya because your a man who will try off the wall stuff.
But, why?

It sometimes makes life more interesting to try new things. And
fun.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

On Nov 28, 7:33 pm, (J T) wrote:
Wed, Nov 28, 2007, 9:20pm (EST+5) (dadiOH) doth
sayeth:
Just don't get it wet...

Water-resistant.

Not water proof. And actually not all that water resistant
on the surface -- Hot water takes dried "water resistant"
yellow glue off of putty knives almost instantly.

*No* finish is as viable as any finish, so long as you
don't get the piece dirty. Works for the Japanese.

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd*Farkel)
doth sayeth:
snip *No* finish is as viable as any finish, so long as you don't get
the piece dirty. Works for the Japanese.

The same people that eat bait.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd*Farkel) doth
sayeth:
Not water proof. And actually not all that water resistant on the
surface -- Hot water takes dried "water resistant" yellow glue off of
putty knives almost instantly. snip

I didn't pay attention to what you said about that, at first. But
then realized, I can take dried "water resistant" yellow glue off of
putty knives with just a fingernail, no hot water required. Which
proves only that wood glue doesn't stick well to metal.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

J T wrote:
Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd Farkel)
doth
sayeth:
Not water proof. And actually not all that water resistant on the
surface -- Hot water takes dried "water resistant" yellow glue off
of
putty knives almost instantly. snip

I didn't pay attention to what you said about that, at first.
But then realized, I can take dried "water resistant" yellow glue
off
of putty knives with just a fingernail, no hot water required.
Which
proves only that wood glue doesn't stick well to metal.

Titebond II and III don't come off my Besseys worth a damn unless I
keep them waxed. I was kind of surprised, but that stuff sticks
remarkably well to metals. And after it does come off it leaves
discoloration.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Nov 30, 4:54 pm, (J T) wrote:
Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd Farkel) doth
sayeth:
Not water proof. And actually not all that water resistant on the
surface -- Hot water takes dried "water resistant" yellow glue off of
putty knives almost instantly. snip

I didn't pay attention to what you said about that, at first. But
then realized, I can take dried "water resistant" yellow glue off of
putty knives with just a fingernail, no hot water required. Which
proves only that wood glue doesn't stick well to metal.

Water melts it off like it was Elmer's School Glue.

On Nov 29, 11:43 pm, (J T) wrote:
Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd Farkel)
doth sayeth:
snip *No* finish is as viable as any finish, so long as you don't get
the piece dirty. Works for the Japanese.

The same people that eat bait.

Is Japanese food worse than Korean food? I've taken a
liking to good Korean kimchi.

On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 17:54:31 -0800 (PST), Ferd Farkel wrote:

On Nov 29, 11:43 pm, (J T) wrote:
Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd Farkel)
doth sayeth:
snip *No* finish is as viable as any finish, so long as you don't get
the piece dirty. Works for the Japanese.

The same people that eat bait.

Is Japanese food worse than Korean food? I've taken a
liking to good Korean kimchi.

Ewwwwwwwwww...

I step up from honey dippers..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Nov 30, 6:54 pm, Ferd Farkel wrote:
On Nov 29, 11:43 pm, (J T) wrote:

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 6:21pm (EST-3) (Ferd Farkel)
doth sayeth:
snip *No* finish is as viable as any finish, so long as you don't get
the piece dirty. Works for the Japanese.

The same people that eat bait.

Is Japanese food worse than Korean food? I've taken a
liking to good Korean kimchi.

No, it's not worse. We'll eat anything, given the circumstances.
However, circumstances can get worse... Tom

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 11:28:09 -0500, (J T)
wrote:


I'd made a jig a week or so ago to cut octagons for chess piece
bases. I'd been carrying the trial piece around in my pocket to look at
occassionally. I'd used a piece of scrap OSB to make it, and one side
was pretty smooth, with the other side slightly less smooth. I'd got
some Elmers white glue awhile back to 'speerment with (hey, it was 20
cants a bottle at Wally-World), so had thinned some of it too. The
Elmers seems to work OK, but I still prefer Titebond II. Also found a
couple of bottles of some made in Mongolia, from dead yaks, or
somewhere, so figured I'd get some to compare.

Ever try Cyanoacrylate Glue and Boiled Linseed Oil. I made replacement
handles for some inherited items whose handles were missing or damaged
and wanted a very durable high gloss finish. Probably easiest done on
small turned parts on a lathe, but with care can be done on other
small parts.



Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Tom Veatch wrote in :


Ever try Cyanoacrylate Glue and Boiled Linseed Oil. I made replacement
handles for some inherited items whose handles were missing or damaged
and wanted a very durable high gloss finish. Probably easiest done on
small turned parts on a lathe, but with care can be done on other
small parts.



Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

That would taste nasty!

I read this post after reading the tree starting with Ferd Farkel's post
about Japanese and Korean food...

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Sat, Dec 1, 2007, 2:43am (EST-1) From: Tom Veatch
Ever try Cyanoacrylate Glue and Boiled Linseed Oil. I made replacement
handles for some inherited items whose handles were missing or damaged
and wanted a very durable high gloss finish. snip

I'm still putting coats on my test pieces. The more coats, the
shinier they get. I'll probably stick with this - hard to glue your
fingers together with Titebond.



JOAT
Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.