I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

"Iraxl Enb" wrote in message
...
I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...


Turn the board around so you are planing in the opposite direction where you
were getting tearout. Usually one direction on a given board works better
than the other because of the way the grain runs.

Frank

Try planing with the grain from the opposite end.

Iraxl Enb wrote:

I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

Ya know, I did the exact same thing, same plane, the whole nine yards. After
reading the wreck and getting REALLY GOOD ADVICE while lurking, I discovered
the plane base is not flat. There is a big bow just behind the front handle.
I can see 1/32" daylight when I put a straight edge across it!!!! From the
cutter mouth back it is flat. I don't know whether to throw it into the
"garage sale" pile or try to smooth it out. I know you get what ya pay for,
and I got crap!

There is a woodworking show this weekend in Tacoma. I'm going and on my
shopping list are 2 GOOD planes. Tonight I'll spend a little time on the
"scary-sharp" system and see what I can do with the POS I have.

Erik Ahrens
Apprentice Termite


"Iraxl Enb" wrote in message
...
I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

Before you invest any more money, it might help to review the various
plane links he

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...planeindex.htm

Tim

ELAhrens wrote:
Ya know, I did the exact same thing, same plane, the whole nine yards. After
reading the wreck and getting REALLY GOOD ADVICE while lurking, I discovered
the plane base is not flat. There is a big bow just behind the front handle.
I can see 1/32" daylight when I put a straight edge across it!!!! From the
cutter mouth back it is flat. I don't know whether to throw it into the
"garage sale" pile or try to smooth it out. I know you get what ya pay for,
and I got crap!

There is a woodworking show this weekend in Tacoma. I'm going and on my
shopping list are 2 GOOD planes. Tonight I'll spend a little time on the
"scary-sharp" system and see what I can do with the POS I have.

Erik Ahrens
Apprentice Termite


"Iraxl Enb" wrote in message
...

I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?


Could be any or all of the above. If you are going in the wrong direction
for the grain try, as suggested, turning and planing from the opposite end.
If it is some squirrelly grain hold the plane at an angle to the grain then
plane straight ahead. This results in a slicing action rather then a shaving
action and will, most likely, solve most of the problems.

Think of it as taking a sharp knife to cut a tomato. Try to push the knife
down and through the tomato will crush it. Use a slicing action and you can
peel off nice thin slices.

Meanwhile you need a close throat, sharp blade, and thin cuts.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Iraxl Enb" wrote in message
...
I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

I did the same thing (bought a POS plane from the Borg). It never
worked very well. I even tried tuning it up via the FWW article/video
on it. Still no good. I took it back and they refunded my money for
me (how nice).

Then I took better advice from the wreck and ordered a Steve Knight
wooden plane (coffin smoother). Oh my goodness!! I cannot even begin
to tell you the difference. If you've got the money, give him a
lookup
(http://www.knight-toolworks.com). Otherwise, maybe try a used
stanley/bailey from ebay.

Good luck,
Mike


Iraxl Enb wrote in message ...
I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.

Iraxl Enb wrote in message ...
I wanted to try my hand at hand planes (no pun intended), so went
to the borg and got a el-cheapo plane (6.5 inch buck bros, made
in USA, ~$12).

Got home and tried it on a scrap piece of 2x2, and after some
sharpening and adjusting could get very thin shavings off the wood.

Heres the problem - while most of the surface was satisfactorily
smooth, there were portions with tear-outs, that just got worse
on more planing. Is this related to the wood, sharpness of the
blade, depth of the blade, or technique?

As others have noted, you can get bad tearout when planing against the
grain. The problem you're experiencing could be due to changes in the
grain orientation in the 2X2 you're practicing on. I've tried planing
construction grade lumber and experienced the same difficulties. Just
keep practicing and learning.

Cheers,
Mike




DGS-ed, but couldnt find anything that might point to what I can
do to get better results...

Thanks,
Irax.