"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-26, B A R R Y wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

Who's going to be
building ramps to load a couple thousand pound object into the back of a
pickup?

I'd like to see the pickup with a couple thousand pounds in the back.

May the OP should just give up and hire a roll-back. G


I have a trailer that can carry a lot more than 2,000 lbs. I made it
myself, kind of.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Home...th-M105A2-Bed/

It can carry about 4k lbs.


Is that a real rating? Seems like that would be kinda high for a single
axle trailer like that.

--

-Mike-

On 2007-10-26, Mike Marlow wrote:

"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-26, B A R R Y wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

Who's going to be
building ramps to load a couple thousand pound object into the back of a
pickup?

I'd like to see the pickup with a couple thousand pounds in the back.

May the OP should just give up and hire a roll-back. G


I have a trailer that can carry a lot more than 2,000 lbs. I made it
myself, kind of.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Home...th-M105A2-Bed/

It can carry about 4k lbs.


Is that a real rating? Seems like that would be kinda high for a single
axle trailer like that.


The axle is 6,000 lbs rated. I bought it new. The entire trailer
weighs less than 2,000 lbs. My estimate is about 1,700 lbs.

i

Regarding use of 2x4s vs. 2x6s on sides, I decided to use 2x4s and
center support (support the ramp in the middle), which I can do with
cinderblocks or jackstands, etc. Makes ramps a lot easier to deal
with.

i

Ignoramus7291 wrote:


I have a trailer that can carry a lot more than 2,000 lbs. I made it
myself, kind of.

Nice!

On 2007-10-26, B A R R Y wrote:
Ignoramus7291 wrote:


I have a trailer that can carry a lot more than 2,000 lbs. I made it
myself, kind of.

Nice!

Barry, thank you!

Somewhat wood related (wood vs. metal), I really like the fact that
its bottom (deck) is made from steel, not wood. Makes a lot of things
a lot easier. (like dragging stuff)

i

"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
news
The axle is 6,000 lbs rated. I bought it new. The entire trailer
weighs less than 2,000 lbs. My estimate is about 1,700 lbs.

i

The axel rating is only part of the equation, you also can't exceed the tire
rating nor the rating of the vehicle pulling the trailer.

Any one of those specs exceeded and the Highway Patrol can side line the
trailer until the load can be made legal and weight tickets like this are
priced by the pound.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

wrote in message
ups.com...


I like this idea, though the earlier idea of bolting on angle is
probably easier.


As I sse the problem with the angle idea is that when the ramp is loaded,
the bolts you use to secure the angle to the wood will want to twist in the
wood, ant that would as I see it be the start of a failure.

By using the steel on the underside as I suggested the sag would be limited
to the ability of the steel to streach against the unwillingness of the wood
to compress against the end grain like a wall stud.

You could induce a little preload when welding the rods to the end caps if
you flipped the ramp upside down and between two fulcrum points. If you
welded one end, and then placed a weight on the center the wood would flex
down, (Actually "up" in its usual orientation.) and then you could weld the
other end. When the weight was released, the rods would already be in
tension.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


Alternatively, consider changing from box store softwood to a locally
milled rough hardwood like oak or ash. The wood itself is stiffer and
you'll gain a little more stiffness from it being thicker (close to a
full 2").

--Glenn Lyford

On 2007-10-27, Roger Shoaf wrote:

"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
news
The axle is 6,000 lbs rated. I bought it new. The entire trailer
weighs less than 2,000 lbs. My estimate is about 1,700 lbs.

i

The axel rating is only part of the equation, you also can't exceed the tire
rating nor the rating of the vehicle pulling the trailer.

Tires came with the axle. The truck is rated for something like 9k
lbs. The hitch, I think 10k lbs.

Any one of those specs exceeded and the Highway Patrol can side line the
trailer until the load can be made legal and weight tickets like this are
priced by the pound.


Agreed.

i

On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 09:45:11 -0500, Ignoramus7291
wrote:

On 2007-10-26, Ignoramus7291 wrote:
I love the camo job, yes, and here's my dilemma. I feel like I need to
sand and paint over some spots, but I do not know how to prevent the
pattern.

I mean, how to keep the pattern, I do not know what I was thinking.

Durrr! Take lots of pictures, so you can duplicate it! ;-P

Locate spray cans of the flat camo paint colors you need or have
them mixed if you want to use a touch-up spray gun. Some mixed paints
with flattening additives need to be shot 'fresh' (within a few months
of mixing) or they revert to semi-gloss.

Fix the rusty.dented spots. Prime and spray base coat.

If the spots have fuzzy edges, you can freehand the camo splotches.
Practice each color on a piece of cardboard to make sure the gun is
primed and shooting a solid pattern before you go for the trailer.

If you want defined edges, use plain old masking tape to outline the
paint areas and then mask off the surrounding area - depending on the
paint chemistry the 3M Blue (long mask) or Green (tough surface) tape.

They have tapes with specialized adhesives to work with lacquers and
certain other aggressive solvents. Read the label.

-- Bruce --

On Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:48:26 -0500, Ignoramus20839
wrote:

snip

Well, when you're dealing with that kind of loads, don't forget the
supporting ends, joint strength and fasteners, point loading of a caster

Well, absolutely. Plus the 2x8 may crack on the middle under such a
load.

i

Just as a reference, my father made some ramps of 3"x12"x~10' rough
sawn live oak he used for over 30 years to load levee rollers on the
bobtail IH. The levee rollers were concrete spools with heavy angle
frames that weighed about 4800 lbs. We'd put three on the truck and
deliver them around to implement dealers, which is why I had a
commercial license at 16. Dad had mounted a hydraulic winch in the
bed, and we'd tilt the dump bed about 5 deg. up to load and unload.
Those old loading ramps never broke, although they did develop a
raised ridge over time down the middle. I guess something to do with
the way they were sawn.

Every time I took a load through the old Baytown tunnel, I'd have to
stop for an inspection. The chain boom handles had to be safety
wired, 2"x4" cleats nailed behind the rollers, etc. I guess they
didn't want to see three rollers unload down the tunnel as I exited.

The ramps were also a bear to handle, being pretty damn heavy. The
attachment to the bobtail (single rear axle truck) was just a small
angle bolted to the ramp set in a groove formed by a piece of bar
welded to the back of the bed.

On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:04:00 -0700, "Roger Shoaf"
wrote:

Any one of those specs exceeded and the Highway Patrol can side line the
trailer until the load can be made legal and weight tickets like this are
priced by the pound.

In my state of CT, you register a trailer for a stated gross weight,
subject to inspection. All homebuilt trailers are required to be
inspected to get initial and transfer registrations. Are there
states that just hand a plate to a homebuilt trailer without
inspecting it? I would imagine Ig had to have his fine workmanship
inspected at registration.

If you're under the card GVW weights for the trailer and tow vehicle,
you're good to go, no negotiating required.

Many recent pickups are rated for at least a 6000 pound tow. Even my
"midsize" '05 Tacoma can legally tow 6500. Unless you're driving
like a bad episode of "CHIPS", I doubt most cops would bat an eyelash
at Ig's trailer behind a full-size pickup.



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** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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Ignoramus7291 wrote:
On 2007-10-26, Ignoramus7291 wrote:

I love the camo job, yes, and here's my dilemma. I feel like I need to
sand and paint over some spots, but I do not know how to prevent the
pattern.


I mean, how to keep the pattern, I do not know what I was thinking.

i

The paint scheme will be found in TM 43-0139.

http://www.dmkf.dk/Filer_manualer/Ca...%20generel.pdf


Kevin Gallimore

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On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 07:49:05 -0400, B A R R Y
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 21:04:00 -0700, "Roger Shoaf"
wrote:

Any one of those specs exceeded and the Highway Patrol can side line the
trailer until the load can be made legal and weight tickets like this are
priced by the pound.

In my state of CT, you register a trailer for a stated gross weight,
subject to inspection. All homebuilt trailers are required to be
inspected to get initial and transfer registrations. Are there
states that just hand a plate to a homebuilt trailer without
inspecting it?

Here in Maine all they want to know about small homebuilt trailers is
the color and what you paid for it g. But I assume you can be cited
for unsafe operation or some other catchall if you're doing something
stupid.

--
Ned Simmons

I registered it with a 5,000 lbs gross rating, and it did not require
an inspection in my state. I made sure that my trailer conformed to
regulations with respect to lights and braking.

i

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:34:28 -0500, Ignoramus2057
wrote:

I registered it with a 5,000 lbs gross rating, and it did not require
an inspection in my state.

Nice! IN CT, ANY homebuilt has to be inspected.

I'm sure your work would impress the inspectors. G

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** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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