in a pursuit of some vibration, I am attempting to remove the cast
pulley on the arbor shaft of my jet contractors saw. Last night I
loosened the set screw and was unable to remove the pulley with a pry
bar even.

Today I called Jet and talked with a tech who said once that set screw
is loose the pulley will slide right off the keyway.

I came home, _removed_ the set screw, squirted WD-40 in there. Let it
sit for a little while, then took the pry bar back in there. SNAP
goes the inside edge of the pulley. Therefore it HAS to come off now.

I see some threads on the arbor shaft, do you suppose that pulley is
threaded on there? So far I've not been able to lock the blade enough
to twist the pulley, but it still does have the keyway. I will try to
knock that out in a few minutes and see what happens from there.

Alan

Dear Alan,

Go buy/rent/borrow a gear puller.

I remove stubborn pulleys from machinery all the time at work with a gear
puller.

Thanks,

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.

Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.

rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar

Not threaded... Try steady pressure on the pulley and at the same time with
a drift or punch tap the motor shaft.


"Alan W" wrote in message
om...
in a pursuit of some vibration, I am attempting to remove the cast
pulley on the arbor shaft of my jet contractors saw. Last night I
loosened the set screw and was unable to remove the pulley with a pry
bar even.

Today I called Jet and talked with a tech who said once that set screw
is loose the pulley will slide right off the keyway.

I came home, _removed_ the set screw, squirted WD-40 in there. Let it
sit for a little while, then took the pry bar back in there. SNAP
goes the inside edge of the pulley. Therefore it HAS to come off now.

I see some threads on the arbor shaft, do you suppose that pulley is
threaded on there? So far I've not been able to lock the blade enough
to twist the pulley, but it still does have the keyway. I will try to
knock that out in a few minutes and see what happens from there.

Alan

Buy or rent something like this from Harbor Freight, Auto Zone, Pep Boys,
Sears, Menards, etc.:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32184

It removes the pulley by applying pressure EVENLY around the pulley, instead
of just on one side like a prybar would.

"Alan W" wrote in message
om...
in a pursuit of some vibration, I am attempting to remove the cast
pulley on the arbor shaft of my jet contractors saw. Last night I
loosened the set screw and was unable to remove the pulley with a pry
bar even.

Today I called Jet and talked with a tech who said once that set screw
is loose the pulley will slide right off the keyway.

I came home, _removed_ the set screw, squirted WD-40 in there. Let it
sit for a little while, then took the pry bar back in there. SNAP
goes the inside edge of the pulley. Therefore it HAS to come off now.

I see some threads on the arbor shaft, do you suppose that pulley is
threaded on there? So far I've not been able to lock the blade enough
to twist the pulley, but it still does have the keyway. I will try to
knock that out in a few minutes and see what happens from there.

Alan

Disregard, some EXTREME persusian with a 3' pry bar, a shattered
pulley wall and some innovative ways to use wrenches slide the pulley
off. The pulley was aluminum and it had rotated to partially absorb
the keyway.

Tomorrow I go buy a machined pulley for the arbor and slide it on, at
least I hope it will slide on. The WWII arrives tommorrow as well.

Alan

"Alan W" wrote in message
om...
Disregard, some EXTREME persusian with a 3' pry bar, a shattered
pulley wall and some innovative ways to use wrenches slide the pulley
off. The pulley was aluminum and it had rotated to partially absorb
the keyway.

Tomorrow I go buy a machined pulley for the arbor and slide it on, at
least I hope it will slide on. The WWII arrives tommorrow as well.

Alan

I would consider a new key as well.

John

I would consider a new key as well.

John
======================
Yep the keys are cheap... lol

BUT since I also "play" with cars (another hobby) not having "pullers"
around the shop is kind of strange....

Just wondering just how many woodworkers do not have at least one in
their wood shops... ? Personally I use then quite a lot in the
woodshop...but maybe its because I love tinkering with machines...

Bob Griffiths

A new key will be under a $1. Well under.

Using a gear puller on that pulley might be problematic without
removing the arbor from the saw. On my saw, the sheet metal of the
saw base would prevent me from using one. There's simply not enough
room to put it on and then turn the screw.

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 11:42:28 GMT, Bob G
wrote:



I would consider a new key as well.

John
======================
Yep the keys are cheap... lol

BUT since I also "play" with cars (another hobby) not having "pullers"
around the shop is kind of strange....

Just wondering just how many woodworkers do not have at least one in
their wood shops... ? Personally I use then quite a lot in the
woodshop...but maybe its because I love tinkering with machines...

Bob Griffiths

Go buy/rent/borrow a gear puller.

I remove stubborn pulleys from machinery all the time at work with a gear
puller.


I have a couple gear pullers for such occassions, but the clearances
into the saw preclude all but the very shortest of shaft varietes.
Will have to go to a tool house and buy one for future uses.

The second problem was keeping the shaft from turning. When I got
enough torque on the pulley with a pair of vise grips, it loosed the
blade nut instead! The gear puller would have exerted at least as
much rotational force as my pliers did.

Alan

Sometimes there is a SECOND set screw under the first one.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Greetings and Salutations....

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:35:37 -0500, Lazarus Long
wrote:

A new key will be under a $1. Well under.

Using a gear puller on that pulley might be problematic without
removing the arbor from the saw. On my saw, the sheet metal of the
saw base would prevent me from using one. There's simply not enough
room to put it on and then turn the screw.


What about cranking the arbor over to 45
degrees? Would that not rotate the pully down
so it would be possible to get enough clearance to
use the puller?
Also, FWIW, there is a tool used to separate
ball joints from the support arm in auto suspensions
that would likely work. It is a wedge, with a slot
cut out of the center, so it will fit around the
shaft. One simply puts it in place and pounds.
The ball joint pops right out.
Now, because the saw is a bit different,
I would likely cut a hardwood wedge to match,
and slide it on so that I had a flat surface
bearing against the pully. I also suspect I would
try a heavy "C" clamp to push the two wedges together
instead of pounding. I would, though, likely tap
firmly on the wedge, if necessary. One does
not want to use a 10 lb sledge here, as one does not
want to bend the shaft, or, knacker up the bearings,
but, a certain amount of delicate hammering would
not be out of line.
Of course, if you don't know what "a certain
amount" would be...perhaps you should not do it.
Glad tos see, though, from another post, that
the pully did finally come off. That sort of thing
can be a real frustration when trying to rebuild
equipment. I expect the machined steel pully,
along with a link-belt drive, will be a big improvement
for the saw.
Regards
Dave Mundt

Have you tried heating it?

"Alan W" wrote in message
om...
in a pursuit of some vibration, I am attempting to remove the cast
pulley on the arbor shaft of my jet contractors saw. Last night I
loosened the set screw and was unable to remove the pulley with a pry
bar even.

Today I called Jet and talked with a tech who said once that set screw
is loose the pulley will slide right off the keyway.

I came home, _removed_ the set screw, squirted WD-40 in there. Let it
sit for a little while, then took the pry bar back in there. SNAP
goes the inside edge of the pulley. Therefore it HAS to come off now.

I see some threads on the arbor shaft, do you suppose that pulley is
threaded on there? So far I've not been able to lock the blade enough
to twist the pulley, but it still does have the keyway. I will try to
knock that out in a few minutes and see what happens from there.

Alan

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 17:50:26 GMT, (Dave Mundt) wrote:

What about cranking the arbor over to 45
degrees? Would that not rotate the pully down
so it would be possible to get enough clearance to
use the puller?

I always forget about this. This might be possible.

Also, FWIW, there is a tool used to separate
ball joints from the support arm in auto suspensions
that would likely work. It is a wedge, with a slot
cut out of the center, so it will fit around the
shaft. One simply puts it in place and pounds.
The ball joint pops right out.

I used one of those many years ago for exactly that task. It's called
a pickle fork, or was at the place I rented it from.

the slotted wooden wedges you mention as functioning like about sounds
interesting too.

If worst comes to worst, these factory pulleys are only die cast
aluminum or zinc, cutting them off (avoid cutting into the arbor)
wouldn't be out of the question if need be.

Glad tos see, though, from another post, that
the pully did finally come off. That sort of thing
can be a real frustration when trying to rebuild
equipment. I expect the machined steel pully,
along with a link-belt drive, will be a big improvement
for the saw.
Regards
Dave Mundt

Back when I did my saw the pulley came straight off without much extra
persuasion. The steel pulleys and link belt ARE an improvement.

In article , Lazarus Long wrote:
Also, FWIW, there is a tool used to separate
ball joints from the support arm in auto suspensions
that would likely work. It is a wedge, with a slot
cut out of the center, so it will fit around the
shaft. One simply puts it in place and pounds.
The ball joint pops right out.

I used one of those many years ago for exactly that task. It's called
a pickle fork, or was at the place I rented it from.

If you're trying to buy one, and the clerk doesn't know what a pickle fork is,
the correct name for the tool is, unsurprisingly, ball joint separator.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

(Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in message ...
Sometimes there is a SECOND set screw under the first one.

I thought there HAD to be two because it was so tough, but the pulley
had torqued into the keyway and was therefore quite difficult to
remove.

Alan

I took the pulley to the bearing shop today. Find out it is an
oddball metric size not quite 15mm and too small for 14mm. It appears
to be about 14.75mm but with a dial indicator .582 was measured in 3
locations. .0581 is pretty close to 14.75 in conversion, so will try
locking the dial caliper there and slipping it over the shaft.

Called Jet while at the bearing place, they confirmed it was metric
but would not disclose the size of the shaft as they still sell the
pulley as a replacement part.

I've asked the bearing guys to see about opening a 1/2" machined
pulley and cutting in the 5mm keyway. Won't hear on that until at
least Monday. It appears no one sells a machined pulley for the jet
contractor saws.

Alan

keywords for search: jet table saw TS pulley arbor metric cast
machined

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 21:13:55 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

I used one of those many years ago for exactly that task. It's called
a pickle fork, or was at the place I rented it from.

If you're trying to buy one, and the clerk doesn't know what a pickle fork is,
the correct name for the tool is, unsurprisingly, ball joint separator.

I used one about 20 years ago. At this point, it's doubtful I'll ever
use one again. I seem to remember that the car dealer wasn't keen on
selling a ball joint, they seemed to think I'd buy a whole control
arm.

update:

I removed the arbor from the saw on Friday night. Upon examination of
the bearings, they were both worn out. Both had some "tick" to them,
one was without lube, the other quite gritty in feel. They have both
been replaced with new NSK for about $12.00 from the local bearing
supply house.

Today I had a friend pick up a new arbor pulley from WMH warehouse in
Auburn WA. The Jet tech said it was machined, but I have my doubts.
Approx $18.00 for the pulley. Hopefully will have it tomorrow.

I reinstalled the arbor with the two bearings. I was unable to locate a
wrench that would allow me to tighten the "special" nut as a means of
drawing the arbor into the second bearing. Instead I had to use a hard
plastic hammer to drive the arbor most of the way. Then a steel hammer
to tap it the last couple of tenths.

The WWII is mounted to the arbor and I see a variation of approx 8
thousands measuring on the sides of the teeth. -5/+3 I will try to
measure the runout on the blade flange tomorrow again. I believe the
motor weight also makes a slight adjustment to the arbor as having the
weight on the pulley through the belt likely causes some deflection.

The WWII is a most impressive feeling blade, very stout, sharper than
any cutting tool I've drug a fingerprint across. Perhaps in a few days
I will be able to use it.

Alan

(Alan W) wrote in message . com...
in a pursuit of some vibration, I am attempting to remove the cast
pulley on the arbor shaft of my jet contractors saw. Last night I
loosened the set screw and was unable to remove the pulley with a pry
bar even.


I received my replacement pulley from Jet today (subject of another
post and a letter I will be sending them) and managed to _beat_ it
onto the shaft. Vibration in the saw is gone. Startup and running
leaves the nickle standing tall. Boxes on my table no longer shake
like a washing machine.

A satisfying result, but dealing with Jet and their ineptitude left a
bad experience.

Alan