I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

That would be my choice. If the resulting moulding is small
cross-section, I would start with larger stock and make two (or four,
depending on the size of stock I had to start from and the moulding
size) first, then separate them and then do the decorative edge.

--

In article .com, Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade and
bring your fingers along with it.

I think I'd start with a board about 4" wide. (View the ASCII art in a
fixed-spacing font, e.g. Courier)

First cut the bullnose on the router table.
+-------------------------------+
( |
( |
( |
+-------------------------------+

Then cut a groove, either with a dado set on the table saw,
or a router bit.
+-------------------------------+
( +------+ |
( | | |
( | | |
+-+------+----------------------+

Finally, flip the board over
+------------------------+------+-+
| | | )
| | | )
| +------+ )
+------------------------|--------+
and rip the ell free here^ on the table saw.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade and
bring your fingers along with it.
....

Not a problem if make the first cut the vertical and the second on the
flat, there's adequate bearing surface for both cuts.

But, one piece per as you works as well...

--

"Kent" wrote in message

My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

Probably my first choice also. But, if I read your post correctly and
despite that it appears to be only 1/4" difference in dado width/depth
dimensions, safety may dictate the procedure/order of cuts, so that would be
nice to know information.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/08/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.


I'd cut the rabbet with a router or dado blade in wide stock, rip the
molding off the wider stock, and repeat.

In article , dpb wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, Kent
wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and
not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade and

bring your fingers along with it.
....

Not a problem if make the first cut the vertical and the second on the
flat, there's adequate bearing surface for both cuts.

Not if you're only making *two* cuts:

+-----------+
| |
| +-------+
| | |
| | |
| | |
+---+-------+

No matter how you turn it, one of those cuts *has* to be on a pretty narrow
edge.

Plus, the OP said he wants a bullnose on the face, too.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Here's a very rough drawing before the rabbet:

___________
| |
( |
( |
( |
|____________|

And here it is after the rabbet:
____________
| |
( ______|
( |
( |
|______|


I propose to first make the vertical cut shown above with the fence
positioned to the right. I would then rotate the stock 90 degrees
clockwise and make the second cut (the one that shows as the
horizintal cut above). The waste would then be to the left (non-fence)
side of the blade.

I would use both vertical and horizontal feather boards.

Does that sound like it would work and be safe?

Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper
kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need
to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table
with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

Think I would use a dado, a table saw, and a router for the bull nose.

Blank out stock to double width +1/4".

Cut bull nose on each side first.

Run double width piece thru dado, then end for end and run thru again.

Finally cut to size with table saw, end for end and clean up 2nd
piece.

If you only have single width stock, cut stock to size first.

There are as many ways as people doing the job.

The above is my way.

YMMV

Lew

In article . com, Kent wrote:
Here's a very rough drawing before the rabbet:

___________
| |
( |
( |
( |
|____________|

And here it is after the rabbet:
____________
| |
( ______|
( |
( |
|______|


I propose to first make the vertical cut shown above with the fence
positioned to the right. I would then rotate the stock 90 degrees
clockwise and make the second cut (the one that shows as the
horizintal cut above). The waste would then be to the left (non-fence)
side of the blade.

I would use both vertical and horizontal feather boards.

Does that sound like it would work and be safe?

Not to me, it doesn't. That's an awfully thin edge to be balancing the stock
on, for the last cut. It would take only a little bit of motion to tilt it
into the blade, when the best you can hope for is a ruined workpiece.

I wouldn't do it. IMO that's an accident waiting to happen. See my first post
in this thread for a description of how I'd go about it.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:

That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade and
bring your fingers along with it.

I like your method of starting out with a larger board...it's obviously
the safest way to go.

However, if the OP doesn't have a larger board, I suggest inserting a
shim the width of the saw blade into the first cut and taping it back
together with masking tape. Then do the second cut. The shim and tape
should keep it from tipping.

Essentially it would be similar to the method used for cabriolet legs on
a bandsaw.

Chris

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , dpb wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, Kent
wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.
That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and
not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade and
bring your fingers along with it.
....

Not a problem if make the first cut the vertical and the second on the
flat, there's adequate bearing surface for both cuts.

Not if you're only making *two* cuts:

+-----------+
| |
| +-------+
| | |
| | |
| | |
+---+-------+

No matter how you turn it, one of those cuts *has* to be on a pretty narrow
edge.

No, do those two cuts first, then the bullnose in my order on a larger
piece...then split the piece for two.

--

In article , dpb wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , dpb wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, Kent
wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.
That's a bit risky IMO -- you'll be making your second cut on a narrow and
not
especially stable workpiece. It could easily rock or twist into the blade
and
bring your fingers along with it.
....

Not a problem if make the first cut the vertical and the second on the
flat, there's adequate bearing surface for both cuts.

Not if you're only making *two* cuts:

+-----------+
| |
| +-------+
| | |
| | |
| | |
+---+-------+

No matter how you turn it, one of those cuts *has* to be on a pretty narrow
edge.

No, do those two cuts first, then the bullnose in my order on a larger
piece...then split the piece for two.

And where, exactly, do you put the bullnose? Illustration, please, even if
it's only ASCII Art.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Aug 22, 1:41 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper
kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need
to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table
with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

Think I would use a dado, a table saw, and a router for the bull nose.

Blank out stock to double width +1/4".

Cut bull nose on each side first.

Run double width piece thru dado, then end for end and run thru again.

Finally cut to size with table saw, end for end and clean up 2nd
piece.

If you only have single width stock, cut stock to size first.

There are as many ways as people doing the job.

The above is my way.

YMMV

Lew

I like the idea except that I will not have the left over 5/8" X 7/8"
white oak peices for possible future projects. Guess I should give
those up for the added safety of this method. I have a freud Dial-A-
Dado blade. Should I hog out the entire 3/4" X 1" dado in one pass?

"Kent" wrote in message

those up for the added safety of this method. I have a freud Dial-A-
Dado blade. Should I hog out the entire 3/4" X 1" dado in one pass?

Only at your own risk ... Sorry, I'm thinking that this is much ado about
very little, with a whole lot of over analyzing to boot?

That said, you still did not give the full dimensions of the final trim
piece, and without that ALL the advice you've gotten thus far is basically
incomplete conjecture.

Two cuts with a single blade is not really all that complicated and,
approached properly, should be safer than using large dado stack on a
relatively small workpiece.

There is no rule that states you have to complete a cut on the table saw. If
your stock is narrow enough that you're worried about it tipping as the
second cut is completed, then simply use a longer piece and stop the cut
with as much stock left in front of the blade that you feel comfortable
with.

It's really not all that difficult, or unsafe, if approached with some
common sense.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/08/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 18:52:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article . com, Kent wrote:
Here's a very rough drawing before the rabbet:

___________
| |
( |
( |
( |
|____________|

And here it is after the rabbet:
____________
| |
( ______|
( |
( |
|______|


I propose to first make the vertical cut shown above with the fence
positioned to the right. I would then rotate the stock 90 degrees
clockwise and make the second cut (the one that shows as the
horizintal cut above). The waste would then be to the left (non-fence)
side of the blade.

I would use both vertical and horizontal feather boards.

Does that sound like it would work and be safe?

Not to me, it doesn't. That's an awfully thin edge to be balancing the stock
on, for the last cut. It would take only a little bit of motion to tilt it
into the blade, when the best you can hope for is a ruined workpiece.

I wouldn't do it. IMO that's an accident waiting to happen. See my first post
in this thread for a description of how I'd go about it.

But it doesn't become a narrow edge until the cut is complete. Either
start with stock that's about 6" or so longer than you need and shut
off the saw (wait for the blade to stop completely before moving) or
use wider stock and do two together as others have suggested. It all
depends on what stock you have available.


-Leuf

In article , Leuf wrote:
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 18:52:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article . com, Kent
wrote:
Here's a very rough drawing before the rabbet:

___________
| |
( |
( |
( |
|____________|

And here it is after the rabbet:
____________
| |
( ______|
( |
( |
|______|


I propose to first make the vertical cut shown above with the fence
positioned to the right. I would then rotate the stock 90 degrees
clockwise and make the second cut (the one that shows as the
horizintal cut above). The waste would then be to the left (non-fence)
side of the blade.

I would use both vertical and horizontal feather boards.

Does that sound like it would work and be safe?

Not to me, it doesn't. That's an awfully thin edge to be balancing the stock
on, for the last cut. It would take only a little bit of motion to tilt it
into the blade, when the best you can hope for is a ruined workpiece.

I wouldn't do it. IMO that's an accident waiting to happen. See my first post
in this thread for a description of how I'd go about it.

But it doesn't become a narrow edge until the cut is complete.

You don't find that to be risky?

Either
start with stock that's about 6" or so longer than you need and shut
off the saw (wait for the blade to stop completely before moving) or
use wider stock and do two together as others have suggested. It all
depends on what stock you have available.

Well, I said in my original response that in my opinion this should be done by
starting with wider stock... and if you don't have that available, IMO you
should get some, rather than attempt this with stock that's only just wide
enough for one piece. The safety issues aren't limited to the table saw,
either: remember that the OP wants to put a bullnose on one face with the
router. One-inch-wide stock? Naaah. Not in my shop. I'll put that bullnose on
a wider piece first, and then mill what I want out of it.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper kitchen
cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face. I need to
cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will be 1" by
3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw with a good
blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a router table with
a large router. What is the best method to do this? My initial
thought is to make two cuts on the table saw suing a standard blade
and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the second cut.

Google search:
http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...rampant+Rabbit

On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 00:27:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

But it doesn't become a narrow edge until the cut is complete.

You don't find that to be risky?

I guess I didn't make it clear enough in the part quoted below.

Either
start with stock that's about 6" or so longer than you need

***Stop the cut before it completes***

and shut
off the saw (wait for the blade to stop completely before moving)

Though personally, yes I would probably complete the cut if I were
doing it myself. No I don't think it's risky at all with the right
push blocks. But if you don't feel comfortable with that then simply
don't complete the cut.

One-inch-wide stock? Naaah. Not in my shop.

You would have a heartattack inside 10 minutes in my shop then

Latest project in progress:

http://krtwood.com/photo/IMGP2064s.jpg

For size reference, bases are 1-1/2", 1-1/8" on the pawns.

I'll call 911 if we don't see any more posts from Doug


-Leuf

Kent wrote:
I am making molding that will wrap the bottom side of my upper
kitchen cabinets. It looks like an "L" with a bullnose on the face.
I need to cut a large rabbet to form the "L" shape. The rabbet will
be 1" by 3/4". I am doing this in white oak. I have a table saw
with a good blade,. I also have a dado blade. Finally, I have a
router table with a large router. What is the best method to do
this? My initial thought is to make two cuts on the table saw
suing a standard blade and rotating the stock 90 degrees for the
second cut.

Neither one IMO. I'd glue it up from two smaller pieces, hate
chopping up a large piece and trying to find a use for small offcuts.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

In article , Leuf wrote:
On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 00:27:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

But it doesn't become a narrow edge until the cut is complete.

You don't find that to be risky?

I guess I didn't make it clear enough in the part quoted below.

Either
start with stock that's about 6" or so longer than you need

***Stop the cut before it completes***

No, I understood that part.

and shut
off the saw (wait for the blade to stop completely before moving)

Though personally, yes I would probably complete the cut if I were
doing it myself. No I don't think it's risky at all with the right
push blocks. But if you don't feel comfortable with that then simply
don't complete the cut.

One-inch-wide stock? Naaah. Not in my shop.

You would have a heartattack inside 10 minutes in my shop then

I meant, making cuts such as we've been discussing on 1"-wide stock. I didn't
mean that using 1" wide stock is inherently dangerous -- just that cutting
large rabbets out of it *is*.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Leuf wrote:

Latest project in progress:

http://krtwood.com/photo/IMGP2064s.jpg

For size reference, bases are 1-1/2", 1-1/8" on the pawns.

I'll call 911 if we don't see any more posts from Doug


-Leuf


Nice looking chess set, Leuf! Post pics somewhere when it's done?

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:20:06 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:

Leuf wrote:

Latest project in progress:

http://krtwood.com/photo/IMGP2064s.jpg

For size reference, bases are 1-1/2", 1-1/8" on the pawns.

Nice looking chess set, Leuf! Post pics somewhere when it's done?

Will do. It's based on plans from a shopnotes article, easily found
with google, that I made a couple of times before. This time I
changed just about everything to make it different and easier. The
way they do it all from one piece it's really hard to get the cuts to
line up perfectly and requires a ton of hand work to get it looking
good. This way I can use the spindle sander for most of it, and it's
a chance to throw in those accents which will match the frame of the
board. It's going to be a pretty special board, once I work up the
nerve to cut the miters to final length. Already built a new larger
miter sled for the task, it should be pretty difficult to screw up.
But still it sits there while I do everything but that.


-Leuf