Been lurking here quite a while...

The situation is this, I have a south facing sunroom/extension on the back
of my house built by the previous owner, I've hired a contractor to replace
the windows, exterior door and exterior siding (going vinyl to match the
rest of the house.

I plan on doing the interior myself, new wood casing/ledges around the
windows, beadboard on interior walls/ceiling, probably in pine. It gets
*very* hot in there in the summer, even on sunny days in the winter. So I
was figuring on using an exterior grade finish on the pine, for the extra
UV protection. I have a Bostitich compressor 6 gallons, rated for
3.4 CFM @ 40 PSI and 2.1 CFM @ 90 PSI, do you think it should work with
this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...456,43390&ap=1

Maybe dialed down to 60 or 70 PSI?

Also was thinking of one of the Cabot Australian Oil finishes, I put it on
my deck, and wooden lawn furniture earlier this year with a brush and was
quite impressed. Or would you suggest something else to finish the wood
surfaces.

Any opinions? Toronto, Ontario if that may affect your opinions.

Thanks in advance

Mini gloat, Lee Valley is only ten minutes away. :-)
--

Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
Been lurking here quite a while...

The situation is this, I have a south facing sunroom/extension on the back
of my house built by the previous owner, I've hired a contractor to
replace
the windows, exterior door and exterior siding ...
I plan on doing the interior myself, new wood casing/ledges around the
windows, beadboard on interior walls/ceiling, probably in pine. It gets
*very* hot in there in the summer, even on sunny days in the winter. So I
was figuring on using an exterior grade finish on the pine, for the extra
UV protection. [...]

I have no opinion on the finishes problem but this is important:
Get the correct coatings on all the glass to filter out the UV rays.
Otherwise the sun will be very destructive to anything and everything which
is in there; fabrics, books, plastics wood, whatever. The filters will also
keep the temperature down considerably. Then you won't have to worry about
exterior grade finishes indoors.

Tim w

Tim W took a can of maroon spray paint on August 14, 2007 05:08 pm and wrote
the following:


"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
Been lurking here quite a while...

The situation is this, I have a south facing sunroom/extension on the
back of my house built by the previous owner, I've hired a contractor to
replace
the windows, exterior door and exterior siding ...
I plan on doing the interior myself, new wood casing/ledges around the
windows, beadboard on interior walls/ceiling, probably in pine. It gets
*very* hot in there in the summer, even on sunny days in the winter. So
I was figuring on using an exterior grade finish on the pine, for the
extra UV protection. [...]

I have no opinion on the finishes problem but this is important:
Get the correct coatings on all the glass to filter out the UV rays.
Otherwise the sun will be very destructive to anything and everything
which is in there; fabrics, books, plastics wood, whatever. The filters
will also keep the temperature down considerably. Then you won't have to
worry about exterior grade finishes indoors.

Double pane, argon filled, thermal-vinyl double hung, too late to change
that, they are supposed to start the install next week, windows had to be
custom made.

--

Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

On Aug 14, 3:45 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43456,43390...

You compressor should work with that. I remember when those were the
rage with woodworkers simply because they WOULD work with your air
compressor. Rember that it is a simple blaster type system that will
push material in front of a single nozzle of air. It is probably
similar to spraying from a can. I can't imagine it doing a great job
of atomizing the material, but that thing has sure been around a long
time for it not to work at least pretty well.

I do know you will need to thin your product pretty well. Note the
construction of that gun requires material to travel up the tube (not
a siphon tube) to get in front of the nozzle. This will take a little
pressure (5 lbs or so if it like a small pressure cup), and of course
a large nozzle on the pressure side to disperse/atomize the material
will take more pressure. So I wouldn't worry about turning downt the
compressor too much until you try it out.

Get a dryer for the air lines. Get a new 25' hose and fittings if you
can (cheap insurance for your new paint rig) and get a regulator you
can handle mount behind the gun rather than rely on the regulator on
the compressor.

I really like the idea from this thread of installing UV resistant
glass. But if it too late, you might consider coatings (like on a
car).

Since this will not be a surface exposed to footwear, hard use, or
anything much more than dusting, I would think any quality UV
resistant coating should work as long as it gave a cleanable surface.

Robert

wrote in message
ps.com...
On Aug 14, 3:45 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43456,43390...

You compressor should work with that. I remember when those were the
rage with woodworkers simply because they WOULD work with your air
compressor. Rember that it is a simple blaster type system that will
push material in front of a single nozzle of air. It is probably
similar to spraying from a can. I can't imagine it doing a great job
of atomizing the material, but that thing has sure been around a long
time for it not to work at least pretty well.

this works by forming a low pressure area over the tube, causing suction to
draw up the material. it doesn't inject air into the jar.

I do know you will need to thin your product pretty well. Note the
construction of that gun requires material to travel up the tube (not
a siphon tube) to get in front of the nozzle. This will take a little
pressure (5 lbs or so if it like a small pressure cup), and of course
a large nozzle on the pressure side to disperse/atomize the material
will take more pressure. So I wouldn't worry about turning downt the
compressor too much until you try it out.

Get a dryer for the air lines. Get a new 25' hose and fittings if you
can (cheap insurance for your new paint rig) and get a regulator you
can handle mount behind the gun rather than rely on the regulator on
the compressor.

I really like the idea from this thread of installing UV resistant
glass. But if it too late, you might consider coatings (like on a
car).

Since this will not be a surface exposed to footwear, hard use, or
anything much more than dusting, I would think any quality UV
resistant coating should work as long as it gave a cleanable surface.

Robert

took a can of maroon spray paint on August 14, 2007
05:22 pm and wrote the following:

On Aug 14, 3:45 pm, FrozenNorth wrote:


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43456,43390...

You compressor should work with that. I remember when those were the
rage with woodworkers simply because they WOULD work with your air
compressor. Rember that it is a simple blaster type system that will
push material in front of a single nozzle of air. It is probably
similar to spraying from a can. I can't imagine it doing a great job
of atomizing the material, but that thing has sure been around a long
time for it not to work at least pretty well.

I do know you will need to thin your product pretty well. Note the
construction of that gun requires material to travel up the tube (not
a siphon tube) to get in front of the nozzle. This will take a little
pressure (5 lbs or so if it like a small pressure cup), and of course
a large nozzle on the pressure side to disperse/atomize the material
will take more pressure. So I wouldn't worry about turning downt the
compressor too much until you try it out.

Get a dryer for the air lines. Get a new 25' hose and fittings if you
can (cheap insurance for your new paint rig) and get a regulator you
can handle mount behind the gun rather than rely on the regulator on
the compressor.

I really like the idea from this thread of installing UV resistant
glass. But if it too late, you might consider coatings (like on a
car).

Since this will not be a surface exposed to footwear, hard use, or
anything much more than dusting, I would think any quality UV
resistant coating should work as long as it gave a cleanable surface.

Thanks for your input, just thinking out loud right now, can't really start
until the windows are in, then I have to install all the wood, before any
finishing. Exploring options with the experts seemed like a good idea,
haven't bought the gun, and I could always brush it, but .... this seemed
like more fun. :-)

Any major issues using an exterior finish indoors? Other than ventilate
while it cures.

It isn't what I would describe as a living area, but when we open the back
door, anything could rush in.

--

Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:40:02 GMT, FrozenNorth
wrote:
-snip-

Thanks for your input, just thinking out loud right now, can't really start
until the windows are in, then I have to install all the wood, before any
finishing. Exploring options with the experts seemed like a good idea,
haven't bought the gun, and I could always brush it, but .... this seemed
like more fun. :-)

Any major issues using an exterior finish indoors? Other than ventilate
while it cures.

I would be wary of using an exterior finish indoors. My single
experience, which was enough to never do it again, was painting my
entry door with exterior paint (the outside side). It took forever to
fully cure. Good thing it was on the outside and I could close it
off.

Don't know if that's "normal" or applicable with today's products
(this was ~5 years ago). But, that's my 2 cents worth.

Renata


It isn't what I would describe as a living area, but when we open the back
door, anything could rush in.