http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...c7ce84a15.aspx

On 4 Jul, 15:20, "Leon" wrote:
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...nk%2Cguid%2C05...

That is a nice looking joint! Thanks for sharing!

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:20:12 GMT, "Leon" wrote:

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...c7ce84a15.aspx

Interesting tool...

Looks like a biscuit jointer on steroids...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:20:12 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...c7ce84a15.aspx

Very little good glue surface between the sides and the tenons, and
that little bit of the sides left at the front edge is weak. The only
thing saving it is the curved ends, which is sort of giving you a
dovetail effect. I don't think it's any stronger than it would be
with 3 dowels.


-Leuf

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:20:12 GMT, "Leon" wrote:
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...nk%2Cguid%2C05...

Leon... that's something that looks pretty cool that probably didn't
take all that long to make. My kinda joint! Have you tried to tear
one apart yet? I wouldn't be able to resist. When I got my PC557 I
glued, waited and tore up all kinds of joints.

A question about the actual application you used, though. I have read
about some that have had problems when they put too much glue on the
tenon and they can't get them in. One guy went so far as to claim
when making pine rail and stile doors that he SPLIT the pine from the
pressure of an over glued tenon sealing up and when he tapped it in it
broke the wood open!

He put less glue on and hasn't had a problem since. I would think
those little *******s (tenons) would have to be the very picture of
uniformity to make a claim like that.

Do all the tenons fit that tight when you are using the machine with
the reference settings? Did you use the machine with the reference
settings on the joint in your picture?

They sure look tight...

Robert

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:20:12 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...nk%2Cguid%2C05...

Leon... that's something that looks pretty cool that probably didn't
take all that long to make. My kinda joint! Have you tried to tear
one apart yet? I wouldn't be able to resist. When I got my PC557 I
glued, waited and tore up all kinds of joints.

I have not yet made one like that yet but I commonly make rabbet joints for
utility drawers and thought this would be stronger.


A question about the actual application you used, though. I have read
about some that have had problems when they put too much glue on the
tenon and they can't get them in. One guy went so far as to claim
when making pine rail and stile doors that he SPLIT the pine from the
pressure of an over glued tenon sealing up and when he tapped it in it
broke the wood open!


:~) Some onelse make this joint.
But, I learned quite quickly that a little glue goes a long way. I actually
paint the glue on the tennon now rather than put it in the mortise. This
way the glue gets applied to exactly where it needs to be and any excess
gets scrapped off outside the hole rather than trapped at the bottom of a
hole. The Domino tennons have small indentations all around the outside and
glue is not entirely scraped off at that point when inserted.
I could possibly see a joint splitting but only if excess glue was used and
even then I think it would be an exception. Playing around I made an exact
fit and an oversized mortise for the smallest 5mm tennons in the edge of
3/4" MDF. I placed 2 tennons in the 2 holes and glued the edges of the MDF
together to form an "L" shapped union. This resulted in what appears to be
an extremely strong joint that I have not been able to pull a part by hand.



He put less glue on and hasn't had a problem since. I would think
those little *******s (tenons) would have to be the very picture of
uniformity to make a claim like that.

The small tennons fit very snug. Snug enough that I have not been able to
press them in completely by hand. A hammer or clamps have always assisted
in the insertion process. Often a dry fit is difficult to seperate, I think
mostly because the joint needs to be seperated by pulling perfectly
perpendicular to the joint line.
The larger tennons tend to be a bit easier to insert and pull apart.



Do all the tenons fit that tight when you are using the machine with
the reference settings? Did you use the machine with the reference
settings on the joint in your picture?

Again, that was a magazine article picture. But, I have cut through a
tennon joint and yes the fit is perfect so if you wanted the tennons to be
exposed like in the picture the fit will be nice and tight.

Leon wrote:

Again, that was a magazine article picture. But, I have cut through a
tennon joint and yes the fit is perfect so if you wanted the tennons to be
exposed like in the picture the fit will be nice and tight.


Hmm, if the fit is -consistently- that good, that might call for some
over-sized joints followed by some creative routing. Oh, say, a shallow
ogee across the face and edge of the tenon ... might color the outside
of the tenon before assembly for a very thin detail line around it.

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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On Jul 6, 7:53 am, "Leon" wrote:

Snip

I could possibly see a joint splitting but only if excess glue was used and even then I think it would be an exception.

He did say that he had put too much glue on. He was thinking of his
other joining methods using his beadlock and biscuit machines. The
piece I read was a little online blurb from one of the editors of WW
mag or something similar. Duly noted, when glue was reduced he didn't
have to bang the tenons is as hard and they worked fine.


The small tennons fit very snug. Snug enough that I have not been able to press them in completely by hand. A hammer or clamps have always assisted in the insertion process. Often a dry fit is difficult to seperate, I think mostly because the joint needs to be seperated by pulling perfectly perpendicular to the joint line.

He did mention something you just did, and that is the fact that he
had a lot of problems with dry fitting. He speculated even using the
reference/nonrerference style of mortising that you could have some
problems with putting together pieces that have multilple Dominoes in
them like cabinet face frames to carcasses, etc.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Although I kidded about it, I am always interested in a well made new
tool that actually has some utility value. I hope you and charlieb
keep us up with what you find out as you use them.

Robert

Leon wrote:


http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...2Cguid%2C05298
eac-153e-49b8-91b4-ad1c7ce84a15.aspx

This is a nice copy of the DomiDrawers that are on
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=800.0
and
http://woodnsoul.blogspot.com/ dated May 2nd

The Pics are a bit better too
--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml