Scott Lurndal wrote:
HerHusband writes:
Ken,

I would still recommend horizontal installation
Unless your drywall sheets are long enough to span from one side of the
room to the other, you'll end up with non-tapered butt joints somewhere
along the wall. These are MUCH harder to tape and hide without a visible
bulge. By hanging the sheet vertically, you always have tapered edges where
sheets meet up, making the taping job a lot easier.

Anthony

A sureform tool makes a quick taper on the butt-ends before you hang
the sheets if needed. Score the paper and a few quick swipes of the tool. Useful
also when patching.

The other "trick" many pro's use (more on ceilings than walls, but it's
also possible) is to make the joint in between the main joists and
fasten to a ledger that is 1/8" or so shy of the field. Then have a
nice area in which to make the joint and fill to make the final surface
flat.

--

In article ,
"Lee Michaels" wrote:

"Scott Zrubek" wrote

I found a reasonable source for slatwall on craigslist and will be using
that to surface my shop when it gets finished in a couple of months.
It's normally exorbitant when compared to drywall. With the craigslist
deal it was merely expensive.

Slatwall??

Isn't that stuff the ultimate dustcatcher?

Probably. It may prove to be a very bad idea, but at least I'll be able
to move any mounted tools about at will.

Updates in 12 months.

On Jun 25, 7:34 pm, Lew Hodgett wrote:

And if you think I believe that, we should get together and talk about
some swampland over in Arizona.

Nah, what they try to sell you here in AZ is the opposite of a swamp -
a lot where there is no local water utility, you have to truck in your
water, no sewers, and the soil doesn't perc, so you have use an
"alternative septic" system. If you're lucky, you get electric and
phone to the lot line.

Don't laugh, developers in NW Arizona are filing plans for
developments close to where the new Hoover Dam bypass is going to be,
where the water supply will be "truck in your own". They expect to
sell a lot of less expensive houses to people who are tired of Las
Vegas real estate prices and don't mind trading the commute for a
cheaper house.

Jerry

HerHusband wrote:
Ken,

I would still recommend horizontal installation

Unless your drywall sheets are long enough to span from one side of the
room to the other, you'll end up with non-tapered butt joints somewhere
along the wall. These are MUCH harder to tape and hide without a visible
bulge. By hanging the sheet vertically, you always have tapered edges where
sheets meet up, making the taping job a lot easier.

Using 8' or 12' sheets, an average wall will result in what? One butt
joint on an average wall vs. one EVERY four feet if laid on vertically?

The reason, I was told, that the drywall is laid horizontally is that
the joints at 4' high, etc. will not show up to the eye when you scan
the room. Sort of like the reason to cut your half tiles (or less)
towards the back corners of the tile field rather than front and/or center.

Maybe I missed it but another good reason to DO THE CEILING now is
simply this: What are you going to do once you hang cabinets, racks,
pegboard, etc. on the walls and THEN decide to go ahead and put in the
ceiling. Do it now! You really don't want to have to vacate that shop
for the job, do you?

Hell, my wife and I have decided to make our last stand here at the home
we build 30+ years ago rather than pack and move all our "stuff." Let
the kids worry about it after we're gone. That'll teach em!g

Using 8' or 12' sheets, an average wall will result in what? One butt
joint on an average wall vs. one EVERY four feet if laid on
vertically?

The walls of most rooms are between 12 and 16 feet, which only translates
to two or three joints when the sheets are hung vertically.

In any case, we hung sheets vertically on the 28' wall of our garage, and I
can't see any waviness anywhere. That's the advantage of having the tapered
seams where the sheets meet. You can get a perfectly flat joint if you take
your time when taping.

put in the ceiling. Do it now!

I agree, I'd do the ceiling first, even if that's all you can afford to do
right now. It's much easier to move junk off to the side to do a wall than
it would be to move everything around to get to the ceiling.

Anthony

Ken,

I would still recommend horizontal installation

Unless your drywall sheets are long enough to span from one side of the
room to the other, you'll end up with non-tapered butt joints somewhere
along the wall. These are MUCH harder to tape and hide without a visible
bulge. By hanging the sheet vertically, you always have tapered edges
where
sheets meet up, making the taping job a lot easier.

Anthony

true, it IS harder to get a smooth joint on a butt joint, however, this is
offset with three things:

1) The long running joints are basically at waist height...easy to get at
without stretching and stooping. Bad enough that you need to do that in the
corners, no sense doing it every 4' down the length of the wall, too.

2) Along the same lines, the 4' vertical joints can be done by stooping
just once and getting on the drywallers bench just once. Most people have
enough of a wingspan to handle reaching 4' without a lot of twisting.

3) The vertical joints are not as noticeable, in general, as horizontal
joints, all other things being equal...that is that you make good joints.

Final tip for a mudded wall...use a skim coat after you think you're
done...just think the crap out of the mud...think thick paint...and slap it
on, followed by a WIDE trowel. When I've done this, don't try to work ONto a
wet skim coat. Start in a corner and work as far down the wall as possible.
Then go to the next corner and do the same thing, going the same
direction...and so on around the room. Next day, go the other way around.
Prime and paint.

Luck

Mike

"The Davenport's" wrote in message
...


true, it IS harder to get a smooth joint on a butt joint, however, this is
offset with three things:

1) The long running joints are basically at waist height...easy to get at
without stretching and stooping. Bad enough that you need to do that in
the corners, no sense doing it every 4' down the length of the wall, too.

Standard ceiling heights aren't such a bad reach for the average height
person. It's less work as well, to reach and stoop to do factory joints
than it is to do butt joints. In the end you'll be doing more stooping and
reaching with butt joints than with factory joints.


2) Along the same lines, the 4' vertical joints can be done by stooping
just once and getting on the drywallers bench just once. Most people have
enough of a wingspan to handle reaching 4' without a lot of twisting.


You have to stoop for every joint - and you have to do all of the extra work
of feathering out every one of those butt joints. I've seen a lot of
sheetrock hung horizontally, and most times the butt joints show. It's not
worth taking the extra time and effort required to work those butt joints
when you can simply hang it vertically and deal with (almost) all factory
joints.

3) The vertical joints are not as noticeable, in general, as horizontal
joints, all other things being equal...that is that you make good joints.

Which would be an arugment in favor or hanging it vertically and having all
vertical joints without horizontal joints.


Final tip for a mudded wall...use a skim coat after you think you're
done...just think the crap out of the mud...think thick paint...and slap
it on, followed by a WIDE trowel. When I've done this, don't try to work
ONto a wet skim coat. Start in a corner and work as far down the wall as
possible. Then go to the next corner and do the same thing, going the same
direction...and so on around the room. Next day, go the other way around.
Prime and paint.


I've never tried this and it sounds like more work than just applying a good
primer coat before painting, but I'll bet it does a nice job of creating a
consistent finish on the rock so that paint does not telegraph where the
spackle is.

--

-Mike-

My uncle taught me how to drywall and tape the joints over 40 years ago. He
always preferred to hang the sheets vertically with as many factory joints
as could be made, then tape and mud the joints with increasing width layers,
feathering the edges wider with each layer. The non-factory edges had to be
feathered wider during the taping process to make them look right, so he
tried to minimize the number of them because they took a bit longer to do.
After each layer of mud dried he would use a taping knife to scrape off any
high spots or bumps before applying another layer of mud. Two or sometimes
three layers was all that was usually necessary for good results. His final
"sanding" wasn't sanding at all. He never used sandpaper. He used a large
damp sponge to wipe off and smooth any remaining bumps and surface
imperfections. While doing this on the seams he also wiped across the whole
surface of the drywall and not just the joint areas. By doing this, the
whole wall surface became coated with a thin smooth layer of drywall mud,
which reduced the differences in texture between the paper sheetrock surface
and the seams, making them even less visible after the walls were painted.
He never used sandpaper, his finished walls always looked great, and he
never had any plaster dust to clean up.

Charley


"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"The Davenport's" wrote in message
...


true, it IS harder to get a smooth joint on a butt joint, however, this
is
offset with three things:

1) The long running joints are basically at waist height...easy to get
at
without stretching and stooping. Bad enough that you need to do that in
the corners, no sense doing it every 4' down the length of the wall,
too.

Standard ceiling heights aren't such a bad reach for the average height
person. It's less work as well, to reach and stoop to do factory joints
than it is to do butt joints. In the end you'll be doing more stooping
and
reaching with butt joints than with factory joints.


2) Along the same lines, the 4' vertical joints can be done by stooping
just once and getting on the drywallers bench just once. Most people
have
enough of a wingspan to handle reaching 4' without a lot of twisting.


You have to stoop for every joint - and you have to do all of the extra
work
of feathering out every one of those butt joints. I've seen a lot of
sheetrock hung horizontally, and most times the butt joints show. It's
not
worth taking the extra time and effort required to work those butt joints
when you can simply hang it vertically and deal with (almost) all factory
joints.

3) The vertical joints are not as noticeable, in general, as horizontal
joints, all other things being equal...that is that you make good
joints.

Which would be an arugment in favor or hanging it vertically and having
all
vertical joints without horizontal joints.


Final tip for a mudded wall...use a skim coat after you think you're
done...just think the crap out of the mud...think thick paint...and slap
it on, followed by a WIDE trowel. When I've done this, don't try to work
ONto a wet skim coat. Start in a corner and work as far down the wall as
possible. Then go to the next corner and do the same thing, going the
same
direction...and so on around the room. Next day, go the other way
around.
Prime and paint.


I've never tried this and it sounds like more work than just applying a
good
primer coat before painting, but I'll bet it does a nice job of creating a
consistent finish on the rock so that paint does not telegraph where the
spackle is.

--

-Mike-