I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of
his woodworking show classes.

If you've spent hours cleaning up Glue Squeeze Out,

If you've dinged a piece scraping off Glue Squeeze Out,

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

charlie b

charlieb wrote:

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

Might be better, but I've been using Trewax for the same purpose for many
years. Since I don't use water based finish, any remaining wax is not a
problem, and the normal wipedown with mineral spirits to detect glue spots
will remove the wax anyway.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of his woodworking show classes.

Met him a few months back at a Lee Valley seminar he was holding on bending
wood. Very knowledgeable guy and a very accomplished teacher.

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of
his woodworking show classes.

If you've spent hours cleaning up Glue Squeeze Out,

If you've dinged a piece scraping off Glue Squeeze Out,

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

charlie b

I presume you have used the product. Does it dry and or is it easy to see
when dry?

Larry Blanchard writes:
Might be better, but I've been using Trewax for the same purpose for many
years.

What I do is put the first coat of finish on the pieces after they
visible surfaces have been cut but before the jointing surfaces
(mortices, tenons, etc) are cut. Of course, my "finish" is usually
plain poly, so I don't have to worry about stain.

Leon wrote:

I presume you have used the product. Does it dry and or is it easy to see
when dry?

Yes I have.

Yes it dries - starts out the consistency of vasoline - but white.

It's white when it dries - almost chalk white. Shows up on just
about any wood I can think of - including english walnut which
has to be one of the whitest, blandest woods around.

charlie b

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

I presume you have used the product. Does it dry and or is it easy to
see
when dry?

Yes I have.

Yes it dries - starts out the consistency of vasoline - but white.

It's white when it dries - almost chalk white. Shows up on just
about any wood I can think of - including english walnut which
has to be one of the whitest, blandest woods around.

charlie b

Great, I'll have to try some out. Lot's cheaper that the last thing you
bought that I also bought. ;~)

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of
his woodworking show classes.

If you've spent hours cleaning up Glue Squeeze Out,

If you've dinged a piece scraping off Glue Squeeze Out,

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

charlie b

I had looked at purchasing Waxilit from LV last year but they only sell it
during certain times of the year IIRC (something to do with temperatures).
I typically do all my finishing before assembly so it probably wouldn't buy
me much until now. I've pretty much put yellow glue at the back of the
shelf and am using plastic resin glue almost 100% now and although it does
come off of finish, it can still stick pretty good. So, thanks for the
affirmation Charlie. I'll order some!
Cheers,
cc

A good tip, save even more and use Johnson's or Minwax paste wax
@ $5-6 for a pound can.


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
A good tip, save even more and use Johnson's or Minwax paste wax
@ $5-6 for a pound can.


But those dry clear and are hard to see. I would prefer something that is
obvious if you have not removed all of it.

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of
his woodworking show classes.

If you've spent hours cleaning up Glue Squeeze Out,

If you've dinged a piece scraping off Glue Squeeze Out,

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

charlie b

Charlie, and any one else that may be interested in a larger quantity at a
considerable discount in price per ounce, take a look here.

http://www.asapwoodworking.com/index...nd%20cleansers

1.6 gallons for $38.00 or a whole lot more for triple the 7 oz. price.

I ordered the 7 oz can from LV for starters to see how good it is.
Apparently it is great for lubricating surfaces also.

##############
Here are some ideas on glue choices =

http://tinyurl.com/29gsxr

Smitty
####################################


On Jun 5, 10:55 am, "Leon" wrote:
"charlieb" wrote in message

...



I didn't discover this stuff - Michael Fortune did - and share this tip
in one of
his woodworking show classes.

If you've spent hours cleaning up Glue Squeeze Out,

If you've dinged a piece scraping off Glue Squeeze Out,

If you discovered that you hadn't gotten rid of ALL the
Gkue Squeeze Out - unitl you began applying your finish
-and then had it pop out like a sore thumb,

Here's a tip that will make all that GO AWAY - honest.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/E...l/Waxilit.html

Your very welcome.

charlie b

Charlie, and any one else that may be interested in a larger quantity at a
considerable discount in price per ounce, take a look here.

http://www.asapwoodworking.com/index...D=114&tnm=wein...

1.6 gallons for $38.00 or a whole lot more for triple the 7 oz. price.

I ordered the 7 oz can from LV for starters to see how good it is.
Apparently it is great for lubricating surfaces also.

On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:57:12 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

including english walnut which
has to be one of the whitest, blandest woods around.

Since when was walnut white?

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:57:12 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

including english walnut which
has to be one of the whitest, blandest woods around.

Since when was walnut white?

You're thinking "black" or Claro walnut. English walnut out here in
Nor Cal was grafted on black walnut mainly - the root system of
the latter apparently is much hardier than english but has smaller
nuts with thicker shells.

Have posted a pick of three cups I turned from what I know is
English Walnut - in a.b.p.w.
subject line: English Walnut Examples for Andy D

charlie b

Leon wrote:


Charlie, and any one else that may be interested in a larger quantity at a
considerable discount in price per ounce, take a look here.

http://www.asapwoodworking.com/index...nd%20cleansers

1.6 gallons for $38.00 or a whole lot more for triple the 7 oz. price.

I ordered the 7 oz can from LV for starters to see how good it is.
Apparently it is great for lubricating surfaces also.

If you're going to use it for making glue squeeze out clean up easier
a 7 0z can is going to last a LONG time. Michael Fortune had a
toothpaste
tube size of the stuff he'd been working on for years. Doesn't take
much to wok.

As I pointed out in my original post about Waxilit - it was developed
to lubricate - and project - cast iron tables for the wood processing
industry.

charlie b

in 1362260 20070606 064650 charlieb wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:57:12 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

including english walnut which
has to be one of the whitest, blandest woods around.

Since when was walnut white?

You're thinking "black" or Claro walnut. English walnut out here in
Nor Cal was grafted on black walnut mainly - the root system of
the latter apparently is much hardier than english but has smaller
nuts with thicker shells.

Have posted a pick of three cups I turned from what I know is
English Walnut - in a.b.p.w.
subject line: English Walnut Examples for Andy D

charlie b

So "English" in this context means anything but "from England" ?
Walnut in England is dark-brown or red.

On 6 Jun, 06:46, charlieb wrote:
Since when was walnut white?

You're thinking "black" or Claro walnut.

No, I'm thinking of English walnut, from England -- which is Juglans
regia not J. nigra, and a warm slightly-reddish brown rather than
white.

There's a lot of colour variation in the world's walnuts and I've
never personally been a fan of the "stripey" nature of much US walnut
(judging it from photos of finished items). I've never seen any though
that I'd even describe as "pale", let alone "white".


Have posted a pick of three cups I turned from what I know is
English Walnut - in a.b.p.w.
subject line: English Walnut Examples for Andy D

Thanks, when I get back to a computer that can access the binaries
groups, I'll take a look.

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:




As I pointed out in my original post about Waxilit - it was developed
to lubricate - and project - cast iron tables for the wood processing
industry.

charlie b

Yeah, I thought I'd try it out to see if it is better than TopCote as I am
almost out of TopCote. I recall you indicating that it was for machined
surfaces also. I found from visiting various sites and comments from
customers that the stuff is "great" for lubing surfaces. I got a lot more
positive feed back than the usual "works for me" answer concerning most
waxes that are used for that purpose.

I was also thinking that if the stuff is as good on machined surfaces as
indicated that 1.6 gallons would be a load to buy and maybe some one local
may want to share the purchase. Hint, Hint. ;~) Although the room that
1.6 gallons takes up is more of a deterrent than the actual price.

Thanks again for sharing this little jewel.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
As I pointed out in my original post about Waxilit - it was developed
to lubricate - and project - cast iron tables for the wood processing
industry.

I understand that Waxilit has no silicone in it which would affect wood
finishing. However, even a wax product can effect the finishing of wood if
it's not removed properly. What do you use to remove any of it that
manages
to find itself on an unfinished wood surface ~ some type of alcohol based
product?



Yes an alcohol based product is recommended. We'll see how that works out.
My main application would be in interior joints where removal of squeeze out
is difficult at best. For me, a wet rag has worked fine for many many
years with no ill effects but that method is still difficult on those
interior corners. I suspect that it may be a 50/50 proposition as to which
looks worse, glue squeeze out or an area not properly covered because of the
left over wax.

Either way, Charlie has indicated that the Waxilit dries to a chalky white
color so it should be relatively easy to insure it's removal visually. I
suspect that very small traces may not be a problem.

"Leon" wrote in message
As I pointed out in my original post about Waxilit - it was developed
to lubricate - and project - cast iron tables for the wood processing
industry.

I understand that Waxilit has no silicone in it which would affect wood
finishing. However, even a wax product can effect the finishing of wood if
it's not removed properly. What do you use to remove any of it that manages
to find itself on an unfinished wood surface ~ some type of alcohol based
product?

Andy Dingley wrote:

There's a lot of colour variation in the world's walnuts and I've
never personally been a fan of the "stripey" nature of much US walnut
(judging it from photos of finished items). I've never seen any though
that I'd even describe as "pale", let alone "white".

Butternut is often described as "white walnut" - maybe that's what the OP was
talking about.

--
It's turtles, all the way down