After I got this small box I'm making as a gift glued up and proudly
brought it up to show my wife, she said "Uh-oh, did you see this?" On
one side is a gouge left from the planner. The material is bird's eye
maple. I don't know how I didn't see this, but it isn't THAT
noticible, except in certain light, then it jumps right out.

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim

On May 7, 6:03 am, jtpr wrote:
After I got this small box I'm making as a gift glued up and proudly
brought it up to show my wife, she said "Uh-oh, did you see this?" On
one side is a gouge left from the planner. The material is bird's eye
maple. I don't know how I didn't see this, but it isn't THAT
noticible, except in certain light, then it jumps right out.

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim

How wide/deep is the gouge? If it isn't too deep I'd just sand the
surface flat. I've never tried it but I think you might have a hard
time finishing it if you try and fill it (and I'm not sure how good
filling it would look either).

"jtpr" wrote in message
ups.com...

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

I think you would end up with something that looked worse than what you've
got. I'd think about a variety of ways to flatten out the surface to the
depth of the snipe. I did this on a small jewelry box using a very sharp
Stanley no. 8 jointer plane. Depending on the size of the box, you could
probably achieve the same result with a belt sander (careful!).

Bob

"jtpr" wrote in message
ups.com...

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

I think you might end up with something worse than you've got. I'd consider
some way to flatten the surface down to the depth of the snipe. I had to
flatten the side of a small jewelry box and had good results using a sharp
Stanley no. 8 jointer plane. You could probably achieve the same results
with a belt sander (careful!).

Bob

On 7 May 2007 06:03:13 -0700, jtpr wrote:

After I got this small box I'm making as a gift glued up and proudly
brought it up to show my wife, she said "Uh-oh, did you see this?" On
one side is a gouge left from the planner. The material is bird's eye
maple. I don't know how I didn't see this, but it isn't THAT
noticible, except in certain light, then it jumps right out.

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim

No - glue and sawdust are always a poor match esp on light wood ligh
maple.

Is this really snipe or just a small torn out eye? I have repaired
torn eyes by completely finishing the item then filling the eye with
CA glue. When glue hardens(do not use accelerator) very carefully
level it with card scraper.

In article . com,
jtpr wrote:
...snipped...
Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim


Personally I have never had much success with the glue & dust mix for
repairs or filling. It never seems to take stain or finish the same
as the surrounding wood, and any glue that gets on bare wood will
adversely affect the finish there, as well. For the finish you
are trying it may work OK but definitely test it on some scrap first. If
the gouge is not too deep, could you just plane or sand it out? That would
be my choice on a small project.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

Snipe is a deeper cut all across the width of the planer blade usually
at the tail end of a board. This sounds like a chip out. Very common
on figured wood and especially birdseye.

I would repair it after you are far along in the finish process and
near the end. Once you have the color established and a first coat of
film finish, or oil (not so effective with poly finishes). Now that
you have the color established, you can match the finish better with
standard filler putty. If this is really birds eye you can just fill
the chips as faux eyes. Just use a darker color like the eyes. I've
used an ink pen pen to add grain lines or a knife or chisel to reshape
the chipouts to better match other surrounding grain before filling to
make the chip look like a little knot. This can actually be a very
artistic and pleasing process..


On May 7, 6:03 am, jtpr wrote:
After I got this small box I'm making as a gift glued up and proudly
brought it up to show my wife, she said "Uh-oh, did you see this?" On
one side is a gouge left from the planner. The material is bird's eye
maple. I don't know how I didn't see this, but it isn't THAT
noticible, except in certain light, then it jumps right out.

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim

On May 7, 2:48 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Snipe is a deeper cut all across the width of the planer blade usually
at the tail end of a board. This sounds like a chip out. Very common
on figured wood and especially birdseye.

I would repair it after you are far along in the finish process and
near the end. Once you have the color established and a first coat of
film finish, or oil (not so effective with poly finishes). Now that
you have the color established, you can match the finish better with
standard filler putty. If this is really birds eye you can just fill
the chips as faux eyes. Just use a darker color like the eyes. I've
used an ink pen pen to add grain lines or a knife or chisel to reshape
the chipouts to better match other surrounding grain before filling to
make the chip look like a little knot. This can actually be a very
artistic and pleasing process..

On May 7, 6:03 am, jtpr wrote:



After I got this small box I'm making as a gift glued up and proudly
brought it up to show my wife, she said "Uh-oh, did you see this?" On
one side is a gouge left from the planner. The material is bird's eye
maple. I don't know how I didn't see this, but it isn't THAT
noticible, except in certain light, then it jumps right out.

Anyway, I was thinking of taking some sanding dust out of my RO sander
and mixing it with some glut and patching it, then sanding again. The
finish on this will be a mixture of tung and linseed oil with a bit of
wipe on poly. Do ya'll think this will work?

-Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Right. I think it is probably a lost eye. So I'll try sanding as
much as I feel comfortable with, then evaluate it from there. I agree
I have never really had much luck with fillers and finish, so I'll
avoid that route if possible.

-Jim

Right. I think it is probably a lost eye. So I'll try sanding as
much as I feel comfortable with, then evaluate it from there. I agree
I have never really had much luck with fillers and finish, so I'll
avoid that route if possible.

Fill with epoxy (clear) and level it with a scraper before it cures
completely.

-steve



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