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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He
tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
In article ,
"Toller" wrote: His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? nope -- "Keep your ass behind you." |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
"Toller" wrote in message ... I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? Of course not. Why do you ask? View the Rob Cosman tapes and you won't have to ask. :-) FWIW, I have a Leigh Jig and dovetail saws. I use them both, whatever is appropriate. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
Toller wrote:
I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? That sounds like my attempts at hand cut dovetails. That standard is OK for something I was practicing on that ends up part of the tool box in the corner of the shop but it's not anything that I would want to show anyone as an example of my workmanship. On the other hand if he's trying to exactly duplicate a piece and that's how it was on the original . . . -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
"Toller" wrote in message ... I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? Well ,on antiques the dovetails often are no longer tight and are broken from miss use. He may have done a better job than you think. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
On Mar 10, 10:57 pm, "Toller" wrote:
I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? Phil Lowe gave a presentation to my woodworking club recently. Part of his career has been to reproduce exactly an antique piece or make a new piece similar in style to old pieces. And to repair or make missing pieces on antiques. As research he frequently inspects, measures, etc. the genuine antique pieces. He commented that you will see a wide variety of craftsmanship levels on antiques. And it is not correlated with the niceness or reputation or cost of the original piece. He said you cannot generalize that inside pieces such as drawer boxes were made quick and rough while the attention was placed on the exterior that was on display. He mentioned famous pieces that were commissioned for high prices back in the day also had pretty rough pieces on them. On one piece he was fixing by some famous builder it had some writing on the bottom of one of the drawer panels. The owner of the antique thought it was signed by the builder. Something Butler I think and the writing started with "B". But it turned out the writing was just "Bottom" to indicate the bottom of the piece. I doubt today anyone would consider leaving "Bottom" written in white chalk on the non visible pieces of a piece of furniture they make. pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Could be the lowly paid first year apprentice was the Omnijig in the shop when he was not cutting wood for the stove. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
On 12 Mar 2007 09:55:54 -0700, "
wrote: panels. The owner of the antique thought it was signed by the builder. Something Butler I think and the writing started with "B". But it turned out the writing was just "Bottom" to indicate the bottom of the piece. I doubt today anyone would consider leaving "Bottom" written in white chalk on the non visible pieces of a piece of furniture they make. Err.. I would I don't mark the bottom because it's pretty easy to know where the plywood parts go. But on drawers I label the parts with the drawer number and F,B,R,L to keep everything straight. The F gets covered by the false front, I'll sand down the sides so the R and L go away. But take one of my drawers out and you'll see something like "3B" on the back of it. Who cares? And besides, if you take them all out you've got the numbers there to help you get them back in the right order. Hopefully you aren't seeing shoddy joinery. -Leuf |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
On Mar 13, 12:08 pm, Leuf wrote:
On 12 Mar 2007 09:55:54 -0700, " wrote: panels. The owner of the antique thought it was signed by the builder. Something Butler I think and the writing started with "B". But it turned out the writing was just "Bottom" to indicate the bottom of the piece. I doubt today anyone would consider leaving "Bottom" written in white chalk on the non visible pieces of a piece of furniture they make. Err.. I would I don't mark the bottom because it's pretty easy to know where the plywood parts go. But on drawers I label the parts with the drawer number and F,B,R,L to keep everything straight. The F gets covered by the false front, I'll sand down the sides so the R and L go away. But take one of my drawers out and you'll see something like "3B" on the back of it. Who cares? And besides, if you take them all out you've got the numbers there to help you get them back in the right order. Hopefully you aren't seeing shoddy joinery. -Leuf The "Bottom" was written in very large letters in white chalk. It covered about half the bottom of the drawer slip. It was very, very large. As in the drawer slip was about 18"x36". And the writing was about 8" high by about 16" long. Really big. And it was just left on the piece and I presume finish applied over it. I'm guessing your "3B" is less than an inch and in pencil and fairly subdued. |
#10
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
On Mar 11, 3:57 am, "Toller" wrote:
I saw some end tables made by someone I think is a competent woodworker. He tried to copy antiques, to the point of using draw bottom raised panels that slide in from the back. His half blind dovetails were not very good. There were gaps and one of the pins was partly broken. I don't know anything about hand work, but would consider them to be terrible if done on my omnijig. Is that considered acceptable on hand cut dovetails, or on replica antiques? I read about someone who had entered a reproduction of an historic piece (a chest) in a contest and was ****ed because he got low marks for workmanship. He had painstakingly duplicated the poor workmanship of the original, corners weren't square, joinery was inconsistent and so on. So the answer to your question would depend on what quality of antique the fellow was trying to copy. -- FF |
#11
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Quality of hand cut dovetails...
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