Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/

Try this online dovetail template generator

http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailEng.aspx

You can print the template, fold over end of wood and cut through it to
form the tails.

On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 18:11:38 -0800, Tanus opined:

I found the saddles that lee valley sold were invaluable to me when I
first tried dovetails by hand.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,50298


In a similar thread several months ago, someone mentioned making one's
own DT saddle. It's really pretty easy, and the practice one gets in
making the angle cuts is useful when the time comes to cut the DTs. Sorry,
can't find the link right now, but dags...

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
wreck20051219 at spambob.net

Steven G. Kargl wrote:
Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

Charlie b's got a goodun, in which he restates what he saw watching a
Frank Klausz video on dovetails:

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ilDrawer0.html

er
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(Steven G. Kargl) wrote in news:dud87f
:

Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?


Greetings....

I think this page is a good place to start...

http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html

It's a collection of dovetail links....hope this helps..

DCH

Steven G. Kargl wrote:

Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/


Alan Foust's Compendium of Dovetail Links

http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html

If a link to it isn't on his site I'm betting you'll
never find it either - even with Google, Alltheweb,
dogpile and the rest.

charlie b
the guy who put together the stuff at
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ilDrawer0.html

"Steven G. Kargl" wrote

Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

Try my web site - Dovetailing Detailed.

Best of luck!

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

Nnnnnaaaaaaawwww come on. That is soft extruded aluminum, only good for
use with a pencil. Check out the Woodjoy markers, hardened steel which is good
with marking a knife that has bevel(s) on one side. It's what I'll get when I start.

http://www.woodjoytools.com/

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Here's a little calculator to size and space them. Found it in the
archives. http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailEng.aspx Tom

Try this site: http://www2.gol.com/users/nhavens/htmlfile/dt1-e.html
It is about hand cutting dovetails

"Steven G. Kargl" wrote in message
...
Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/

In article ,
(Steven G. Kargl) writes:
Anyone have a pointer to descriptions for laying out
and cutting dovetails by hand?

Thanks for the links. Now, it's time to read and
make some sawdust.

Drive-by-gloat: $44.95 of my hard earned salary went towards
a LN Independence Dovetail saw and an Independence Carcass saw.

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/

AAvK wrote:

Nnnnnaaaaaaawwww come on. That is soft extruded aluminum, only good for
use with a pencil. Check out the Woodjoy markers, hardened steel which is good
with marking a knife that has bevel(s) on one side. It's what I'll get when I start.

http://www.woodjoytools.com/


The problem with most of the dovetail marking gauges is that they're
opaque.

Why is that a problem?

Well, for dovetails to look really nice, there has to be almost perfect
symetry
or they don't look right. The fit may be perfect - but if their spacing
is off,
and they don't have to be off by much - your eye will catch it and your
brain
will register that something's not right.

+-+----+----+-+ Case 1 - Symetric

+--+--+-----+-+ Case 2 - Asymetric (not symetric at all)

The easiest way to get symetry is to start out marking the Centers of
the
PINS or TAILS (depending on if your a PINS First or TAILS First person).
It's much easier to work out spacing between centerlines of PINS or
TAILS
than it is between left side of one/right side of another PIN or TAIL.

Find the center of the board and mark the end you'll be cutting. Do some
light pencil lines for ABOUT where you want the centers of the remaining
PINS or TAILS. Rember - you're going to start and end with a Half PIN.

When things look about right, use a combi-square, double end square
or marking gauge to get the same distance in from the sides of the board
to your centerline for each pair of PINS or TAILS.

Now we come to the shortcoming of opaque dovetail marking gauges -
THEY'RE OPAQUE. That means that you CAN"T SEE your centerline
OR any line behind it that you've already marked.

Ideally, a dovetail marking gauge should
1. be transparent so you can see what's behind/under it
2. let you mark the end grain and one side grain face at
each set up location (ie - like a saddle square)
3. have an alignment line or lines, a specific distance
from the edge to be marked/scribed, which can be
aligned to your centerline layout line (reread that
and if it isn't clear yet it should be after you look at
the dovetail marking gauge here

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...Drawer17A.html

This polycarb marking gauge gives you EIGHT, count 'em
eight, PIN or TAIL width options. The lines scribed into
the polycarb are on both the sides of the polycarb to minimize
parallax. Set a scribe line over your centerline and mark
your stock at the outer edge of the gauge. Mark BOTH the
top and one face - at the same time.

Have a look.

charlie b

Thanks for the links. Now, it's time to read and
make some sawdust.

Drive-by-gloat: $44.95 of my hard earned salary went towards
a LN Independence Dovetail saw and an Independence Carcass saw.

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/


Well good grief... WHERE-oh-WHERE did you get THAT awesome price???

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Here's a little calculator to size and space them. Found it in the
archives. http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailEng.aspx Tom


Seems the owner of the site already gave that link, Blocklayer.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?

Barry


We always gotta spend money somehow, ay? I have a sliding T bevel, an old 6" Stanley
#18, I can set it on my steel protractor. Problem is the bevel's blade is really thin. The
thicker bladed DT square from Woodjoy will help to keep it accurate, and already be set
at the perfect angles. I think T bevels are mostly for copying miter angles, though one
could be accurately set with that veritas bevel setter. The "why not" thing is, I myself
still have to even begin learning all these skills 'after' my bench is built. I am here
attempting to learn, getting it all into my head.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Parents and in-laws have no idea what to get for X-mas
presents. Wife suggested gift certificates. Note, I
said only $45 on *my* hard earned money. :-)

--
Steve
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/


Awesome! Congrats!

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I wrote: Here's a little calculator to size and space them. Found it
in the
archives. http://www.blocklayer.com/Woodjoints/DovetailEng.aspx Tom

Then AAvK wrote:
Seems the owner of the site already gave that link, Blocklayer.
Yep, my bad. But do you see what the archives
can do (if you're not paying attention)? Tom

Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?

Barry


Actually now I have been sawing and chopping the slanted dog holes in the
apron for my work bench, setting the bevel with the protractor to 88º and it
has been working great! I make the cut mark with it and when done with the
whole slot, I check the side walls with it, it's doing great!

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
Why not simply use a good bevel gauge, and either eyeball the angle or
make a cardboard or scrap wood setting template?

Actually now I have been sawing and chopping the slanted dog holes in the
apron for my work bench, setting the bevel with the protractor to 88º and it
has been working great! I make the cut mark with it and when done with the
whole slot, I check the side walls with it, it's doing great!

I do hope you're taking pics along the way...

er
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