It seems that most major marketers of wood glues are now selling
their own brand of urethane glue. I've used Gorilla Glue for a
number of small repairs and have generally been pleased with the
results, although it takes a week to get it off my fingers. It
appears to be particularly good as a wood glue. I'm reluctant to use
it in place of the old standbys on an important project, though,
because it's new to me. Does anybody have any long-term experience
with this? I'm assuming that it needs a different technique than
traditional wood glues (Elmer's, Titebond, etc). Can someone fill me
in on the idiosyncrasies of this stuff? How sandable is it? Does it
stain well? Is it critical to remove the excess before it dries?
How do you get it off your hands?

Mike Hartigan wrote:
| It seems that most major marketers of wood glues are now selling
| their own brand of urethane glue. I've used Gorilla Glue for a
| number of small repairs and have generally been pleased with the
| results, although it takes a week to get it off my fingers. It
| appears to be particularly good as a wood glue. I'm reluctant to
| use it in place of the old standbys on an important project, though,
| because it's new to me. Does anybody have any long-term experience
| with this? I'm assuming that it needs a different technique than
| traditional wood glues (Elmer's, Titebond, etc). Can someone fill
| me in on the idiosyncrasies of this stuff? How sandable is it?
| Does it stain well? Is it critical to remove the excess before it
| dries? How do you get it off your hands?

I've used it for a number of different applications and it seems to
work well for most. It didn't work well for installing T-tracks
subject to significant shear forces (along the length of the
glued-down track).

It'll clean up really quickly with acetone and a paper towel.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Mike Hartigan wrote:
It seems that most major marketers of wood glues are now selling
their own brand of urethane glue.
snip

IMHO, strictly over priced and under peckered.

If Titebond isn't good enough, use epoxy.

It simply works.

Wear disposable gloves.

Lew

Mike Hartigan wrote in
.net:

It seems that most major marketers of wood glues are now selling
their own brand of urethane glue. I've used Gorilla Glue for a
number of small repairs and have generally been pleased with the
results, although it takes a week to get it off my fingers. It
appears to be particularly good as a wood glue. I'm reluctant to use
it in place of the old standbys on an important project, though,
because it's new to me. Does anybody have any long-term experience
with this? I'm assuming that it needs a different technique than
traditional wood glues (Elmer's, Titebond, etc). Can someone fill me
in on the idiosyncrasies of this stuff? How sandable is it? Does it
stain well? Is it critical to remove the excess before it dries?
How do you get it off your hands?

I never sanded or stained it. The stuff foamed out and got scraped when it
got solid, and most of it went away.

My experience was that it seemed to not hold up to shock. In other words,
a sharp blow on the corner of something could break the bond. That may
just have been me, and/or I read it somewhere, but there are a number of
joints I glued with that stuff that have needed rebonding. I don't recall
ever doing that with a Titebond product.

And the stuff went 'off' in the bottle on me, too. Even with a small
bottle, I only got 1/3 used before it was past it's prime.

Too much downside for me. Not enough upside. YMMV.

Patriarch

On Sat, 3 Mar 2007 18:35:48 -0600, Mike Hartigan
wrote:

Can someone fill me in on the idiosyncrasies of this stuff?

I've never once used it and not regretted it afterwards.

Expensive, poor storage, high risk of buying old stock from a shop
that's already half-expired.

In service it's weak unless in an absolutely perfect joint. It's
particularly weak if there's any chance of the joint moving at all. It
has _no_ elasticity, which I think is the main failure mechanism.

How sandable is it?

Easy. Bit unstable really. If you have excressences, a knife blade
usually shifts them more quickly.

Does it stain well?

Colour is totally unstable to sunlight. If it's visible, then it's also
sun exposed. This also makes it likely to fail in the future.

Is it critical to remove the excess before it dries?

No, it's important to leave it until it dries, when it's manageable.

How do you get it off your hands?

Acetone.


Just avoid the stuff. Use Titebond or cheap PVA.

Just avoid the stuff. Use Titebond or cheap PVA.

Just to throw out an alternate opinion, I've used it on parts of a
variety of projects, and don't have any complaints. I haven't had a
PU-glued joint fail yet. I like it primarily for its long open time -
the bottle advertises 30 minutes, and I've had joints glued and open
for at least 15 min with no problems. I've also found the foaming
squeeze-out to be very easy to remove by scraping (after it's cured).
Keep in mind that even though it foams, any "gap-filling" properties
are very weak and should not be structural.

One thing to remember is that it cures with water - which means it may
help to moisten one or both surfaces prior to gluing, especially if
it's not very humid. That also means it won't last very long in the
bottle if it's stored in humid conditions - you might even keep it in
a ziplock with some desiccant if you want it to last longer.

I haven't had a big problem with price - LOML often gets coupons for
at least 40% off from a local craft/fabric store, so I use those and
get the gorilla glue there.

Just my thoughts,
Andy

Andy wrote:
Just avoid the stuff. Use Titebond or cheap PVA.

Just to throw out an alternate opinion, I've used it on parts of a
variety of projects, and don't have any complaints. I haven't had a
PU-glued joint fail yet. I like it primarily for its long open time -
the bottle advertises 30 minutes, and I've had joints glued and open
for at least 15 min with no problems. I've also found the foaming
squeeze-out to be very easy to remove by scraping (after it's cured).
Keep in mind that even though it foams, any "gap-filling" properties
are very weak and should not be structural.

One thing to remember is that it cures with water - which means it may
help to moisten one or both surfaces prior to gluing, especially if
it's not very humid. That also means it won't last very long in the
bottle if it's stored in humid conditions - you might even keep it in
a ziplock with some desiccant if you want it to last longer.

I haven't had a big problem with price - LOML often gets coupons for
at least 40% off from a local craft/fabric store, so I use those and
get the gorilla glue there.

Just my thoughts,
Andy

I have used it for gluing up pen blanks to take up the slop in a hole
that drilled oversize. Not in love with it, but it does have limited uses.

Bill

--
I am disillusioned enough to know that no man's opinion on any subject
is worth a **** unless backed up with enough genuine information to make
him really know what he's talking about.

H. P. Lovecraft


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"Mike Hartigan" wrote in message
.net...
It seems that most major marketers of wood glues are now
selling
their own brand of urethane glue. I've used Gorilla Glue for a
number of small repairs and have generally been pleased with
the
results, although it takes a week to get it off my fingers. It
appears to be particularly good as a wood glue. I'm reluctant
to use
it in place of the old standbys on an important project,
though,
because it's new to me. Does anybody have any long-term
experience
with this? I'm assuming that it needs a different technique
than
traditional wood glues (Elmer's, Titebond, etc). Can someone
fill me
in on the idiosyncrasies of this stuff? How sandable is it?
Does it
stain well? Is it critical to remove the excess before it
dries?
How do you get it off your hands?

Used it once, never again! As others have mentioned, little to no
shear strength and short shelf life.

What really irks me is the local hardware stores pulled
"Weldbond", a really good white glue that actually works with
dissimilar materials, completely off the shelf to make room for
this crap. Such is life I guess.

Len