Hi Wood workers.
I have an project that requires an 1/4" x 22" x 102" piece of G1S plywood
I have an small T.S. the top about
24" x 28" my problem is trying to cross cut the plywood as accurately as
possible . I'm almost tempted to use an
handsaw, but then it would probably not be cut square. I would appreciate
suggestions as to how I might do this job.

Sal

sal wrote:
Hi Wood workers.
I have an project that requires an 1/4" x 22" x 102" piece of G1S plywood
I have an small T.S. the top about
24" x 28" my problem is trying to cross cut the plywood as accurately as
possible . I'm almost tempted to use an
handsaw, but then it would probably not be cut square. I would appreciate
suggestions as to how I might do this job.

Sal

Sal,
My first suggestion is to try to get them to cut it for you when you
buy the plywood. They will probably have a panel saw that is made for
the task. If that's not an option, then buy a plywood blade for your
portable circular saw. Lay your plywood on a few 2 X 4s on the floor
and clamp a board to the plywood to guide your saw. I have a cabinet
saw, but I still cut plywood with a circular saw unless the pieces are
small enough to handle easily. I just don't like wrestling plywood on
the table saw, and I've got an extension table on the side and rear.

DonkeyHody
"You just don't know a man until you've divided an inheritance with
him." - Mark Twain

On 26 Nov 2006 13:00:26 -0800, "DonkeyHody"
wrote:


sal wrote:
Hi Wood workers.
I have an project that requires an 1/4" x 22" x 102" piece of G1S plywood
I have an small T.S. the top about
24" x 28" my problem is trying to cross cut the plywood as accurately as
possible . I'm almost tempted to use an
handsaw, but then it would probably not be cut square. I would appreciate
suggestions as to how I might do this job.

Sal

Sal,
My first suggestion is to try to get them to cut it for you when you
buy the plywood. They will probably have a panel saw that is made for
the task. If that's not an option, then buy a plywood blade for your
portable circular saw. Lay your plywood on a few 2 X 4s on the floor
and clamp a board to the plywood to guide your saw. I have a cabinet
saw, but I still cut plywood with a circular saw unless the pieces are
small enough to handle easily. I just don't like wrestling plywood on
the table saw, and I've got an extension table on the side and rear.

DonkeyHody
"You just don't know a man until you've divided an inheritance with
him." - Mark Twain

Donkey's advice is about the best you're going to do I think. Look for
a *Hollow Ground* blade. In the absense of a plywood blade, cutting
from the backside will help reduce chipping.

"sal" wrote in message ...
Hi Wood workers.
I have an project that requires an 1/4" x 22" x 102" piece of G1S plywood
I have an small T.S. the top about
24" x 28" my problem is trying to cross cut the plywood as accurately as
possible . I'm almost tempted to use an
handsaw, but then it would probably not be cut square. I would appreciate
suggestions as to how I might do this job.

Sal



What is G1S plywood and does it actually come in 102" lengths??

"sal" wrote in message ...
Hi Wood workers.

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use. Bye the way in
Can. G1S means good one side there being better grade wood with few if
any patches. Thanks for the advice.

Sal

"sal" wrote in message ...

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hi Wood workers.

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use. Bye the way in
Can. G1S means good one side there being better grade wood with few if
any patches. Thanks for the advice.


So can you get plywood that is 102" long in Canada or are you going to
splice?

On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:46:52 -0600, "sal" wrote:


"sal" wrote in message ...
Hi Wood workers.

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use. Bye the way in
Can. G1S means good one side there being better grade wood with few if
any patches. Thanks for the advice.

Sal




Around where I live in S.E. Wisconsin, plywood is available in 4 foot
x 8 foot sheets. That's 96" long, maximum. Trimming it to get a nice
edge will make it a little shorter.

Where are you getting plywood that you can get one continuous 102"
finished length?

AFAIK, plywood is relatively easily obtainable up to 10' lengths anyway.
See here (Windsor Plywood is one of our national "real lumber" stores;
http://www.windsorplywood.com/2007_c...df/Pg34-38.pdf


"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"sal" wrote in message
...

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hi Wood workers.

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use. Bye the way in
Can. G1S means good one side there being better grade wood with few if
any patches. Thanks for the advice.


So can you get plywood that is 102" long in Canada or are you going to
splice?

Also see here; http://www.windsorplywood.com/did_you_know_q.html
"Doug Brown" wrote in message
...
AFAIK, plywood is relatively easily obtainable up to 10' lengths anyway.
See here (Windsor Plywood is one of our national "real lumber" stores;
http://www.windsorplywood.com/2007_c...df/Pg34-38.pdf


"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"sal" wrote in message
...

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hi Wood workers.

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use. Bye the way
in Can. G1S means good one side there being better grade wood with
few if any patches. Thanks for the advice.


So can you get plywood that is 102" long in Canada or are you going to
splice?

"sal" wrote in message ...

All the replies were excellent , not sure which to use.

Or use a combination. Depending on the final size and how much waste, rough
cut the sheet down to manageable sizes then finish on the table saw. Most
lumber yards will have a fairly loose tolerance and a splintery cut if they
do it on the panel saw. If you have one with a good saw setup, that changes
things.

you could go to a place with a panel saw loke HD or something. If you
brought your own piece of wood in, find out when the manager is on shift,
arrange to run into him, which might take a while, and ask him to fill out a
cut service charge only, maybe buy a $1.01 piece of cull to put on the bill.
With that cut, which can be done geometrically and metrologically pretty
darn good, you're either finished, or you could put it back on the TS. You
could put an inch, or whatever against the fence and keep the outbound side
as your finished cut. Or you could clamp something, screw, glue, nail,
whatever to get a staright edge, or just wing it, and then cut the other
side to match if possible. You could even do the rough cut with a jig saw
if you have a good straight piece attached for a guide for your final finish
cut. For that matter, just as long as there is a succession of max
clearance points along the chalk line at a period (much) less than the
lenght of the fence, your ok theoretically.

It makes the cutting a little difficult, you don't want it to bind. The
important thing to remember is you have to make sure all of the forward
momentum you imopart into the cutting is pointing parallel to the
blade/fence, and when you get close to the cut-through area at the end of
cutting, you can't use the outbound side of the blade to push any longer,
because you'll be pushing sideways at the same time, and bind into the
blade. You need to keep your hand between the fence and the blade while
pushing forward, and make sure the outbound piece follows straight forward.
This applies to all cutting. I learned the hard way.

Having an adjustable height roller stand is a good thing to have, placed
somewhat centered to the cut, and rolling parallel to the cut. and also
additional support table that you can clamp to the sides of the saw any
time, extending support throughout the rear with a piece of plywood, or
whatever handy. you just need to test the setup each time you're on
different ground. And with the rollers always lower the blade under the
table, and roll the piece over the roller to the final cutted-through
position, and micro-adjust the angle of the roller so it rides without help,
parallel. I use a level, straightedge, and a fairly flat 5' chrome steel
pipe I garbage picked. You can clamp a wood rest to the side of the saw,
and screw into it for a temp extension table. Its all in appropriate stable
re-set-up capability.

http://canadiantire.ca/browse/produc...romSearch=true

Some stands are sold with a single row of balls rather than a single roller.
Roller stands like this can act as both a table and roller. Looking for one
to link. These are the balls.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,41060

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,41060



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