I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".


We recently had storm bring down some trees and I will be cleaning
them up soon. I am looking for a good crosscut saw to use for the
task. Biggest diameter log is about 10". I see that Garrett Wade has a
28" saw that looke pretty good, but doesn't have a normal logging
tooth (IE tuttle):

http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/...oductID=107133

The Crosscut Saw Company has several to choose from but I don't know anything
about their quality - do they sell good stuff?

However, they mostly seem too large - I'm not felling, just cutting up to stove
length:

http://www.crosscutsaw.com/1.html

And finally, Lehmans has a few, can't tell anything about their quality:

http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...ProductID=1151
http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...?iProductID=26

Are there any sources I'm overlooking?

I'm leaning toward the one from Garrett Wade, but the tooth style
worries me.

Or maybe the German made saw from Lehmans.

Thoughts?

Matt

A chainsaw would be my 1st choice for that job.
However, if you're a glutton for punishment and want to do
it manually a bowsaw will do fine.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...earchre sults

No need to spend $$$ on a saw for cutting up firewood.

Now you're trying to justify with SWMBO the purchase of one
of the saws you identified .... that's a different story.

Art

"Matt Parker" wrote in message
...

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".


We recently had storm bring down some trees and I will be cleaning
them up soon. I am looking for a good crosscut saw to use for the
task. Biggest diameter log is about 10". I see that Garrett Wade has a
28" saw that looke pretty good, but doesn't have a normal logging
tooth (IE tuttle):

http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/...oductID=107133

The Crosscut Saw Company has several to choose from but I don't know anything
about their quality - do they sell good stuff?

However, they mostly seem too large - I'm not felling, just cutting up to stove
length:

http://www.crosscutsaw.com/1.html

And finally, Lehmans has a few, can't tell anything about their quality:

http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...ProductID=1151
http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...?iProductID=26

Are there any sources I'm overlooking?

I'm leaning toward the one from Garrett Wade, but the tooth style
worries me.

Or maybe the German made saw from Lehmans.

Thoughts?

Matt

"Wood Butcher" writes:

A chainsaw would be my 1st choice for that job.
However, if you're a glutton for punishment

After some of the chainsaws I have used over the years, a good handsaw
isn't what I would call punishment.

a bowsaw will do fine.

If I wanted a bowsaw, I would make one. I am looking for a high
quality hand saw that can be resharpened.

Now you're trying to justify with SWMBO the purchase of one
of the saws you identified .... that's a different story.

Was is with guys nowadays that have to run every purchase over $100
past their wives? I can understand talking it over before buying a car
or something of that nature, but somehow I think we have raised a
generation of men that don't know how to be leaders of their
households.

Matt

Matt Parker wrote:
Was is with guys nowadays that have to run every purchase over $100
past their wives? I can understand talking it over before buying a car
or something of that nature, but somehow I think we have raised a
generation of men that don't know how to be leaders of their
households.

Matt

I agree wholeheartedly. Somehow a lot of guys got convinced that they
are children and need to ask their wife permission for everything or
they will "get in trouble".

I don't do that, and I don't expect my wife to ask me permission for
everything either. But we are both mature adults and spend
responsiblily.
It's pretty sad if a man is so irresponsible, that a wife needs to
"police" his spending habits.

"Wood Butcher" wrote in message
...
A chainsaw would be my 1st choice for that job.
However, if you're a glutton for punishment and want to do
it manually a bowsaw will do fine.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...earchre sults

Over the past 35 years or so I've cut down and up many a tree with a similar
bow saw. I bought it at a the Boy Scout shop for about $4 and still use
it... It's probably had a half dozen replacement blades on it over the
years. The last major job was cutting up a sizeable multi trunk locust tree
that the remains of a hurricane took down. Needless to saw, the blade needed
replacing after that... ;-)

John

If you must use a handsaw, go to a hardware store, Sears or Walmart and buy
a bow saw for about $10. For your purpose, it's far superior to the saws
you are considering; disposable blade (no sharpening); much less sweat
equity invested in cutting up the tree because of thin kerf blades used on
bow saws.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-bow-sa...4.1255108.html
Get the rectangular rather than the triangular frame type. Enjoy the
exercise :-)

That said: "buy a chainsaw" if you have more than one tree to cut up. If
your trees are within, say, 100 feet of an electric outlet, an electric
chainsaw should suffice and is much less hassle for a novice user than a gas
saw (but still needs periodic sharpening
http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm#sharpening; buy a sharpening file; don't
let the blade touch rocks or the ground). Obviously you would also need a
100 ft power cord of adequate wire gage. HF has cheap electric chain saws as
does Walmart, Sears, etc.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2956

Arguably safer than even an electric chain saw in the hands of the
inexperienced is a reciprocating saw. HF has a really cheap one that might
last for a few trees. Then buy from Lowes or Home Depot (for almost what
you paid for the saw) the longest brand name pruning blade they stock for
reciprocating saws. (HF Chinese blades REALLY suck in my experience.)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=04095

David Merrill

"Matt Parker" wrote in message
...

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".

"David Merrill" writes:

If you must use a handsaw, go to a hardware store, Sears or Walmart and buy
a bow saw for about $10. For your purpose, it's far superior to the saws
you are considering;

For pete's sake, I'm not looking for a piece of Chinese made
disposable crap.


disposable blade (no sharpening);

How is that superior?


much less sweat equity invested in cutting up the tree because of
thin kerf blades used on bow saws.

Have you used a good quality, sharp, Tuttle tooth saw?


That said: "buy a chainsaw" if you have more than one tree to cut up. If
your trees are within, say, 100 feet of an electric outlet, an electric
chainsaw should suffice

Electric chainsaws are generally crap.

and is much less hassle for a novice user than a gas saw

And, I was using gas chainsaws a quarter century ago.


Arguably safer than even an electric chain saw in the hands of the
inexperienced is a reciprocating saw.

I have a Milwaukee sawz-all for rough carpentry, but it would be a
sorry choice for cutting up logs. The vibration alone would make your
hands miserable before you cut through one log.


HF has a really cheap

Very true. Cheap - not economical.


Matt

Matt, take a look at this sellers listings on eBay. I think he has good prices
considering the used prices at "The Crosscut Saw Co."

http://search.ebay.com/_Tools-Hardwa... QsassZkiri500

You seem to be experienced, I am not. But, he is always re-listing his saws.
You would want to email him and ask further details, he doesn't say much
but I think those prices are worth serious consideration.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"Matt Parker" wrote in message
...

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".

Because it is a good idea for your use. An electric one will probably do.


The Crosscut Saw Company has several to choose from but I don't know
anything
about their quality - do they sell good stuff?

However, they mostly seem too large - I'm not felling, just cutting up to
stove
length:

http://www.crosscutsaw.com/1.html

IMO, a 3' saw is not too large for 10" dia cuts. A 20 to 24" stroke, pule
the 10" of the wood, and it is about right.


And finally, Lehmans has a few, can't tell anything about their quality:

http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...ProductID=1151
http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...?iProductID=26


Lehmans has a good reputation for quality.

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".

Because it is a good idea for your use. An electric one will probably do.

What is it that causes the average usenet poster to assume that they
know more about your situation than you do?

It is akin to asking for pointers on where to find a good Italian
resturant and being told that what you really want is a McDonalds.

I like a good chainsaw when I need one. However, in all three posts I
have made, I have never asked "should I get a chainsaw or a handsaw" -
I have only asked where to find a good handsaw.

I don't mean to sound overly critical - it is just that this world is
full of people that love to tell you what you should do rather than
just answer a simple question.

I must be getting old.

Matt

"Matt Parker" wrote in message

What is it that causes the average usenet poster to assume that they
know more about your situation than you do?

I find it interesing that you decided to take me to task on this comment,
but ignored my other comments about saw size the the quality of Lehman's
products. Only thing to say at this point is "go **** yourself".



I must be getting old.

Yea, just an old prick

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:

"Matt Parker" wrote in message
I find it interesing that you decided to take me to task on this comment,
but ignored my other comments about saw size the the quality of Lehman's
products.

No offense intended. I simply took you to task for this statement:

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".

Because it is a good idea for your use. An electric one will probably do.


I find it frustrating that someone would start giving me advice on what I need
without knowing the situation.


Only thing to say at this point is "go **** yourself".

I'm sorry you feel that way, mister. I believe I have presented
a valid point and that kind of reply won't cut it in a debate.


Matt

Matt, just ignore replies you consider to be rediculous.
Never "let them have it" and argue back. Otherwise, you
burn your bridges, as I have learned by my own social
mistakes in this NG. You don't have to kiss ass either.
And I know I wasn't asked, you were told anyway.


--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I don't mean to sound overly critical - it is just that this world is
full of people that love to tell you what you should do rather than
just answer a simple question.

Oh, you mean people like the guy (you) who earlier in this thread told
everyone how to be a leader in their household? Or is unsolicited
advice acceptable when you are delivering it?

I must be getting old.

That may be true, but I doubt it's an explanation for your reactions
and behavior. I suspect you were confrontational and obnoxious even
when you were young.

writes:

Oh, you mean people like the guy (you) who earlier in this thread told
everyone how to be a leader in their household? Or is unsolicited
advice acceptable when you are delivering it?

Show me where I offered advice on it. I made the observation that the nation
is full of such but at no time did I accuse him of suffering from it.

BTW, my wife cringes at the term SWMBO. To her, it describes an
over-bearing and shrewish woman. I love and honor my wife, thus I
don't call her that.


I must be getting old.

That may be true, but I doubt it's an explanation for your reactions
and behavior. I suspect you were confrontational and obnoxious even
when you were young.

No, but whenever I have asked a question, I have usually wanted that
question answered and not have to spend 15 minutes explaining why I
want to know.

It seems like it was easier to get a straight answer 20 years ago.

Matt

"Matt Parker" wrote in message

No, but whenever I have asked a question, I have usually wanted that
question answered and not have to spend 15 minutes explaining why I
want to know.

There's a half million questions that if not answered correctly will kill
you or maim you for life, especially with woodworking. That means that it's
*imperative* that someone knows the origin and details surrounding your
question before answering it for you.

Anything less would be irresponsible of the person giving you advice. If you
don't understand that, then you shouldn't bother with this newsgroup and you
shouldn't be doing any woodworking.

Matt Parker wrote:
writes:

Oh, you mean people like the guy (you) who earlier in this thread told
everyone how to be a leader in their household? Or is unsolicited
advice acceptable when you are delivering it?

Show me where I offered advice on it. I made the observation that the nation
is full of such but at no time did I accuse him of suffering from it.

Okay, maybe the word "advice" was a bit of a stretch, but your comment
was pretty convicting and appeared to be directed toward him.

BTW, my wife cringes at the term SWMBO. To her, it describes an
over-bearing and shrewish woman. I love and honor my wife, thus I
don't call her that.


I must be getting old.

That may be true, but I doubt it's an explanation for your reactions
and behavior. I suspect you were confrontational and obnoxious even
when you were young.

No, but whenever I have asked a question, I have usually wanted that
question answered and not have to spend 15 minutes explaining why I
want to know.

May I suggest that it might have been more productive if you had simply
restated and clarifed your question and left out the complaints about
the responses that obviously frustrated you?

'Nuff said. I'll get off my soapbox. I sincerely hope that you found
some helpful information.

Tom

Matt Parker wrote:

BTW, my wife cringes at the term SWMBO. To her, it describes an
over-bearing and shrewish woman. I love and honor my wife, thus I
don't call her that.

FWIW, the usage of SWMBO on this newsgroup does not pertain to an
overbearing and shrewish woman. See the following message for more
info:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...0c0d448?hl=en&


I refer to my wife as SWMBO, and she knows about it and gets a laugh
out of it. You see, we are comfortable enough in our relationship that
she doesn't take offense at an obviously ironic/humorous term.

As to your original question -- I've not tried the saws in question,
but do have some experience cutting mesquite from the log. I've used
both a homemade bowsaw and a cheapo Stanley "sharksaw", and the best
advice I can give you is whatever you choose, you want the saw to be as
long as possible (within reason). You want to be able to establish a
rhythm of *long* strokes where you are using your whole body behind the
stroke.

As for the saw binding near the end of the cut -- I just roll the
log over and finish the cut from the opposite side once I get close.


Chuck Vance

On 27 Jul 2005 15:13:20 -0500, Matt Parker wrote:

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".

Because it is a good idea for your use. An electric one will probably do.

What is it that causes the average usenet poster to assume that they
know more about your situation than you do?

Probably a poorly-worded question. If your question indicates zero
knowledge or research present, then that will be assumed.

I don't mean to sound overly critical - it is just that this world is
full of people that love to tell you what you should do rather than
just answer a simple question.

There are technical groups, though, full of people asking 'How do I do
(really stupid thing that nobody in their right mind would do)'.
Finding out what the question behind the question is, so the _real_
answer can be given, is valuable.

"I think I see what you're getting at, but the way you're trying to do
it is the hard way to do it" is a valid response, in some situations.

"Matt Parker" wrote in message
...


What is it that causes the average usenet poster to assume that they
know more about your situation than you do?

All the responses I've read so far have been right on target with
your stated situation: "just cutting up to stove length".



I don't mean to sound overly critical - it is just that this world is
full of people that love to tell you what you should do rather than
just answer a simple question.

NONE of the responses told you what you should do. I told you
what I'd do and what would also work, as did others. To this you
took offense. The one poster who did tell you "what you don't want"
got a "first well-reasoned response" comment from you.


I must be getting old.

Maybe. And maybe you're just cranky. Either way you are certainly
unreasonable and have earned the flak you are getting.

Art

In article , no-one@mostly-no-
where.com says...
I like a good chainsaw when I need one. However, in all three posts I
have made, I have never asked "should I get a chainsaw or a handsaw" -
I have only asked where to find a good handsaw.

OK, my response is to find an old Disston or Atkins at a used tool
dealer, on Ebay, or if you're lucky, at an estate sale. Therir quality
is, IMNSHO, better than most any handsaw you can buy today. Are you
anywhere near Spokane WA? I've got a few from around 1900 that need
setting and sharpening, but the steel is good.

--
BNSF = Build Now, Seep Forever

It's been a few decades since I used one of those things, but I can
remember enough to say this:
You want one that'll let you do the longest stroke your arms can
handle. Three feet probably isn't too long. If you've got long arms,
3.5 shouldn't be too bad. Long slower strokes are better than fast
short ones. You get a better rhythm. Doesn't matter how thick the log
is, longer strokes work better.

You don't want the garrettwade. It's a combination tooth, and they
admit that they sacrificed some performance to make it a dry/green
cutter. Probably not much, but after a few cuts you'll notice. I'd go
with either the crosscut or Lehmans.

One of your posts makes me think you can sharpen a saw or you know
someone who can. Lehmans says right up front the saw needs to be
sharpened when you get it and I'd bet the crosscut saw would too. Oh,
and when I used one of those it was the one with the extra handle like
the crosscut, and I used it. It helped. It still dang near killed me,
though. Of course, unlike me, you'll be able to stop anytime you want
and take a break. :-)

Have fun! After a few weeks with those things, I can look at 'em with
nostalgia but I'm never gonna pick one up to cut wood with it again.

" writes:
snip
You don't want the garrettwade. It's a combination tooth, and they
admit that they sacrificed some performance to make it a dry/green
cutter. Probably not much, but after a few cuts you'll notice.

That was what worried me.

Thank you, yours is the first well-reasoned response I have received.

Matt

"Matt Parker" wrote in message

Thank you, yours is the first well-reasoned response I have received.

Matt

I mentioned the saw length also but you chose to ignore that and pick on
what you didn't want to see. I made an observation to your reference but you
chose not to see it that way.

Yes, you are an old prick.

"Edwin Pawlowski" writes:

I mentioned the saw length also but you chose to ignore that and pick on
what you didn't want to see. I made an observation to your reference but you
chose not to see it that way.

Ok, I appreciate your input on the length and on the quality of
Lehmans. I still stand by my view of your suggestion of a
chainsaw. Don't take it too personally - one of the big problems with
communications on usenet is that you can't see people's faces and
eyes. As for myself, I have never felt compelled to liberly sprinkle
"smilies" throughout a text.


Yes, you are an old prick.

Nah, you just don't know me well enough. Some people just think
I'm eccentric.

Matt

Matt Parker wrote:
I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".


We recently had storm bring down some trees and I will be cleaning
them up soon. I am looking for a good crosscut saw to use for the
task. Biggest diameter log is about 10". I see that Garrett Wade has a
28" saw that looke pretty good, but doesn't have a normal logging
tooth (IE tuttle):

http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/...oductID=107133

The Crosscut Saw Company has several to choose from but I don't know anything
about their quality - do they sell good stuff?

However, they mostly seem too large - I'm not felling, just cutting up to stove
length:

http://www.crosscutsaw.com/1.html

And finally, Lehmans has a few, can't tell anything about their quality:


http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...?iProductID=26

Are there any sources I'm overlooking?

I'm leaning toward the one from Garrett Wade, but the tooth style
worries me.

Or maybe the German made saw from Lehmans.

Thoughts?


What you have in mind is called bucking. THe Garret Wade saw looks
more like it is for crosscutting dimensional lumber, not thick logs
regardless of what th etext says.

I bought a 4' replacement bow saw blade from a home center and
made my own bucking (bow) saw out of wood. THe problem I have
always had with the steel bow saws is that the frame isn't
springy enough to keep the blade taught.

I'd suggest the crossctu saw from the crosscut saw company. I
have had no experience iwth them, but they at least LOOk like
the right kind of saw. I know a few people who hav ebought
Garret Wade saws and they were not favorably impressed.

Best bet would be to buy an antique and tune it up.

Let us know what you choose and how it works.

--

FF

wrote:

Matt Parker wrote:

I have asked this question in a couple of other newsgroups,
but instead of getting an useful answer, I have mostly got
"buy a chainsaw".


We recently had storm bring down some trees and I will be cleaning
them up soon. I am looking for a good crosscut saw to use for the
task. Biggest diameter log is about 10". I see that Garrett Wade has a
28" saw that looke pretty good, but doesn't have a normal logging
tooth (IE tuttle):

http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/...oductID=107133

The Crosscut Saw Company has several to choose from but I don't know anything
about their quality - do they sell good stuff?

However, they mostly seem too large - I'm not felling, just cutting up to stove
length:

http://www.crosscutsaw.com/1.html

And finally, Lehmans has a few, can't tell anything about their quality:


http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/prod...?iProductID=26

Are there any sources I'm overlooking?

I'm leaning toward the one from Garrett Wade, but the tooth style
worries me.

Or maybe the German made saw from Lehmans.

Thoughts?



What you have in mind is called bucking. THe Garret Wade saw looks
more like it is for crosscutting dimensional lumber, not thick logs
regardless of what th etext says.

I bought a 4' replacement bow saw blade from a home center and
made my own bucking (bow) saw out of wood. THe problem I have
always had with the steel bow saws is that the frame isn't
springy enough to keep the blade taught.

I'd suggest the crossctu saw from the crosscut saw company. I
have had no experience iwth them, but they at least LOOk like
the right kind of saw. I know a few people who hav ebought
Garret Wade saws and they were not favorably impressed.

Best bet would be to buy an antique and tune it up.

Let us know what you choose and how it works.

And if you feel the urge to turn any of this into lumber the old
fashioned way they may still have a few of their pitsaw blades, no
handles. They must be prepaid mail order. item description: 'PIT SAW
BLADE, UNSHARPENED BLADE ONLY'
They had at least one 0n 7 March of this year.
Joe
PS be careful if you decide to make the nitroglycerin;-)

Joe Gorman writes:

And if you feel the urge to turn any of this into lumber the old
fashioned way they may still have a few of their pitsaw blades, no
handles. They must be prepaid mail order. item description: 'PIT SAW
BLADE, UNSHARPENED BLADE ONLY'

Nah, I'm not sure I can convince my BIL to stand in the pit.

Most of these blowdowns are elm. Not just any elm, but really nasty,
trashy elm. I probably won't even try to burn them for heat.


PS be careful if you decide to make the nitroglycerin;-)

Actually, I already knew how to make nitroglcerin but have
never felt the need. ANFO is better for tree stumps, or was
before the OKC mess.

Matt

Matt Parker wrote:
Joe Gorman writes:


And if you feel the urge to turn any of this into lumber the old
fashioned way they may still have a few of their pitsaw blades, no
handles. They must be prepaid mail order. item description: 'PIT SAW
BLADE, UNSHARPENED BLADE ONLY'


Nah, I'm not sure I can convince my BIL to stand in the pit.

Most of these blowdowns are elm. Not just any elm, but really nasty,
trashy elm. I probably won't even try to burn them for heat.



PS be careful if you decide to make the nitroglycerin;-)


Actually, I already knew how to make nitroglcerin but have
never felt the need. ANFO is better for tree stumps, or was
before the OKC mess.

Matt

I used the teenagers who were out of school but doing nothing else
useful. Might have even been quieter.
Joe