Assuming the fence has a t-slot, I'd use a t-bolt of the proper length.
FYI that for the "nut" you can countersink a 1 inch hole 1/8 inch
and use one of those special screws (nut actually) that they often use
to hold particle board furniture together. It's an allen screw design
where one shaft fits within the other and the head is about 1 inch in
diameter vs a normal sized allen screw.

You could actually use a t-nut in the fence and the screw side of the
particle board fastener (you can get these parts at home depot or any
hardware store).


You might find that your slot is actually too narrow for a t-nut unless
it's just a threaded plate that has a 1/4-20 hole through it and it's
not really a t-nut.

If that's the case you can use a t-bolt as I mentioned (it's thinner on
the shaft assuming we're talking a 1/4-20 t-bolt.

You might find that you can only fit a 1/4-20 bolt head in the slot
though. You can still fit a t-bolt but you'd have to grind the sides of
the head or use a screw (head) instead.

If your slot is actually a 3/8ths inch slot great - you have a lot more
options.

Alan


(PS. I'm also assuming that you're talking about a 6/4 (or better
thickness fence). I've made it out of 3/4 material too, but if I do I
put a create a 3 sided box that covers the fence on both faces and the
top. Using a decent thickness piece of wood is much better. Too, it
warps over time you can just run it through a jointer and plane it again.


Christian Lair wrote:

I've drilled holes on a sacrifical piece of wood for my POS Craftsman TS.
Just like Norm!! (The wood, not the POS TS) I'm wondering how I should
attach this to the existing fence? I'm wondering if I should go with a T-
Nut or sink some bolts into the wood? Anyone have any ideas about this?

No T slot. Its an el cheapo craftsman. Its got 3 3/16 holes in the fence.
My intention isn't to leave the wood there all the time, just when I need
to run the blade very close to the fence. I might just sink a bolt into the
wood so that it doesn't stick out and use a wing nut on the backside to
make removal easy.

Christian Lair wrote:

No T slot. Its an el cheapo craftsman. Its got 3 3/16 holes in the fence.
My intention isn't to leave the wood there all the time, just when I need
to run the blade very close to the fence. I might just sink a bolt into the
wood so that it doesn't stick out and use a wing nut on the backside to
make removal easy.

Place the sacrificial fence against the fence and run wood screws through the
fence into the back side of the sacrificial fence. If the fence is like the
one I had on my old Craftsman saw the holes are "keyholes" for easy removal.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

I have used 3M industrial double sided tape, not double sided foam tape,
without any problems. I always use MDF as the sacrificial piece as it is
generally flat and even thickness so the accuracy isn't affected.

Grant.

"Christian Lair" wrote in message
...
I've drilled holes on a sacrifical piece of wood for my POS Craftsman TS.
Just like Norm!! (The wood, not the POS TS) I'm wondering how I should
attach this to the existing fence? I'm wondering if I should go with a T-
Nut or sink some bolts into the wood? Anyone have any ideas about this?

On 14 Jul 2003 16:20:49 GMT, Christian Lair
wrote:

I've drilled holes on a sacrifical piece of wood for my POS Craftsman TS.
Just like Norm!! (The wood, not the POS TS) I'm wondering how I should
attach this to the existing fence? I'm wondering if I should go with a T-
Nut or sink some bolts into the wood? Anyone have any ideas about this?

I just use two quick clamps to attach whatever piece of scrap is
nearby. Yesterday, I used a piece of MDF over my dado blade to cut a
3/8" x 3/8" rabbet.

Barry