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Henry E Schaffer
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Default What Freemasons would like us to believe........

In article ,
Oo :

"Jack Nairey" in message
. com...
David Simpson wrote in message

can you post links/evidence of this?

Plunge routers are nice. They have some advantages that can't be
duplicated in fixed base routers. But probably 95% of the routing that
you want to do now, and maybe 80% of the routing you will ever do can be
done without a plunger. Don't make it your first router. Keep in mind
that, by nature, plunge routers have a higher center of gravity. You may
be much more comfortable with a fixed base router for much of your
routing on that issue alone.

24 mm all threaded shank below the head.
5.9mm diameter, a 6mm nominal
1mm pitch as far as I can tell, counting the threads and comparing with
a RH
Slotted Head, Cylindrical 10mm dia 3.8mm thick

All the Secretary's desks I have seen fold back about 30 degrees past
vertical. Is that just tradition, or is there a compelling reason for
it? Obviously it will stay closed better that way than vertical, but a
simple catch should be adequate for that.

A couple of observations. The first rule of scraping is to tune your
scrapers. The second rule of scraping is TO TUNE YOUR SCRAPERS!! Once
you get them sharp, things go much easier. I started by looking for
areas of obvious tear out, and went at them with a fairly thin scraper
so I could really localize my efforts without killing myself keeping the
blade flexed. (Note: While the jointer/burnisher from Veritas worked
excellently, I abandoned their scraper holder for this task, as it
didn't allow me enough control for really localizing my work - which I
wanted to do to avoid too much flattening out of the wavy plane marks.)
Once the deeper divots were removed, I'd take a couple of longer, wider
passes to sort of even out the crater, so to speak. You've got to play
with the angle of attack as well as the direction of scraping to really
get a clean cut, and you can't be timid about it. I try to really get
the scraper moving and then ease it down into and then out of the

FWIW, the best sushi chefs are purists when it comes to sharpening
their knives and only use natural waterstones. Ever try slicing raw
fish with a dull knife? Can't be done! :-) You need a really really
sharp knife...a knife sharper than a scap

You won't get a mirror finish with natural stones. They leave a "mat"
finish. I usually go from my 5000 man made ceramic to the natural for
a final hone. If I'm reading this correctly, you feel that because of
the "finish" you're seeing, you think the natural stone is taking you
back a step. Sorta like the natural stone is around 2000 grit. I
usually grade my naturals on how fine an edge I get, through trying
them on several of my blades. It's all subjective, but I check the
sharpness coming off my 5000, then off the naturals by seeing how
easily I can take shave off my fingernail. The natural stone edge
takes the least effort. I can also tell while pulling the plane.
Waterstones are a different animal since there's no consistent rating
system. At least I've never seen consistency. That's why I prefer to
try natural stones before buying. I have a feeling that "try before
you buy" is the way it was traditionally done in Japan. The person I
used to buy my stones from would ask what type of stone I was looking
for, pull out a bunch of stones and a bucket of water. I'd hone my
blades til I found the stone(s) I wanted.

When filling the voids, the wood will want to drink up the epoxy over
time as it cures (this is GOOD it will add strength to the areas
weakened by the defects, and it's the main reason you want to use the
slow-cure stuff). You will probably need to babysit the filled areas and
periodically add epoxy as it disappears into the crevices. A way to
reduce this effort is to build "dams" around the affected areas with
regular white latex caulk so they can be filled up with a "lake" of
epoxy, which then drains into the crevices over time without requiring
your undivided attention. The caulk and surplus epoxy is easily removed
after it cures with a sharp low-angle block plane.

You may also want to inspect the end grain and the opposite side of your
boards before starting the job and "seal" any cracks or voids with
masking tape (the blue stuff works best). The epoxy will often seep its
way all the way through the board, and it will permanently bond your
precious Mesquite to the work surface if you're not careful to seal off
the cracks first.

Fabricate a pattern out of 1/4" material, for best results use Masonite
or similar material. Cut the pattern with 3" - 5" of material around the
perimeter of the pattern. This will provide a good base to support the
router as the cut is made. When designing the pattern, remember to make
the opening large enough to accommodate the 9/16" bushing.

For a standard female pattern, discard the piece you cut out of the
pattern material. If producing a male pattern, you would discard all but
the cut out, and reverse the following directions regarding the use of
the inlay bushing.

The tool is comprised of an aluminium cutter head that is 7" in diameter, 7/8" wide and is designed for a 5/8" saw arbor. The center of the block has recessed areas to enable the use of the tool on table saws with shorter arbors, and a large thick steel spacer washer is also provided to ensure the correct positioning of the head on your Table Saw or Radial Arm Saw. The head has recesses for two Cutter Blocks, called "Plugs", which fit into keyed slots. These are then locked down via hex bolts (more on this later) with a supplied Allen/Hex key to suit.

The Cutter Plugs are all comprised of a steel body with substantial Tungsten Carbide tips that measure an even 1" across and are about 3/32" (2.5mm) in thickness, providing a solid cutting surface and also allowing a large scope for re-sharpening. The standard kit comprises two different sets of cutters (see photos) with over 70 other "off the shelf" designs also available.

Before going to any machine, be sure to look the wood over for
staples and other metal bits. There is no surer way to ruin the knives
in your jointer or planer (not to mention the table saw blade) than
machining wood containing a piece of metal.

We can make these operations easier and faster by preparing the stock
before going to the jointer and planer. Preparation is especially
important when using the smaller jointers and planers often found in the
home workshop.

Cutting the pieces to rough length, within an inch or two of the
final length is important for two reasons. Machining two 4'-long pieces
is easier to process accurately on short bed jointers than one 8'-long
board. Also, until the sides of the wood are square and parallel, we
cannot trim the ends square accurately.

Boards with badly bowed edges should have the majority of that defect
removed using a jointing jig on the table saw. The jointer could
eventually remove a large bow but that would require a large number of
cuts and would probably waste more wood than using the table saw
jointing jig.

Historically, some species filled many purposes, while other less
available or less desirable species served only one or two needs. For
example, because white oak is tough, strong, and durable, it was highly
prized for shipbuilding, bridges, cooperage, barn timbers, farm
implements, railroad crossties, fence posts, and flooring. Woods such as
black walnut and cherry were used primarily for furniture and cabinets.
Hickory was manufactured into tough, hard, and resilient striking-tool
handles, and black locust was prized for barn timbers. What the early
builder or craftsman learned by trial and error became the basis for
deciding which species were appropriate for a given use in terms of
their characteristics. It was commonly accepted that wood from trees
grown in certain locations under certain conditions was stronger, more
durable, more easily worked with tools, or finer grained than wood from
trees in other locations. Modern research on wood has substantiated that
location and growth conditions do significantly affect wood properties.
The gradual reductions in use of old-growth forests in the United States
has reduced the supply of large clear logs for lumber and veneer.
However, the importance of high-quality logs has diminished as new
concepts of wood use have been introduced. Second-growth wood, the
remaining old-growth forests, and imports continue to fill the needs for
wood in the quality required. Wood is as valuable an engineering
material as ever, and in many cases, technological advances have made it
even more useful.

thousands of trees. Sapwood of elm is nearly white and heartwood light
brown, often tinged with red. Elm may be divided into two general
classes, soft and hard, based on the weight and strength of the wood.
Soft elm includes American and slippery elm. It is moderately heavy, has
high shock resistance, and is moderately hard and stiff. Hard elm
includes rock, winged, cedar, and September elm. These species are
somewhat heavier than soft elm. Elm has excellent bending qualities.
Historically, elm lumber was used for boxes, baskets, crates, and slack
cooperage; furniture; agricultural supplies and implements; caskets and
burial boxes; and wood components in vehicles. Today, elm lumber and
veneer are used mostly for furniture and decorative panels. Hard elm is
preferred for uses that require strength. Hackberry Hackberry (Celtis
occidentalis) and sugarberry (C. laevigata) supply the lumber known in
the trade as hackberry. Hackberry grows east of the Great Plains from
Alabama, Georgia, Arkansas, and Oklahoma northward, except along the
Canadian boundary. Sugarberry overlaps the southern part of the
hackberry range and grows throughout the Southern and South Atlantic
States. Sapwood of both species varies from pale yellow to greenish or
grayish yellow. The heartwood is commonly darker. The Hickory (True
Group) True hickories are found throughout the eastern half of the
United States. The species most important commercially are shagbark
(Carya ovata), pignut (C. glabra), shellbark (C. laciniosa), and
mockernut (C. tomentosa). The greatest commercial production of the true
hickories for all uses is in the Middle Atlantic and Central States,
with the Southern and South Atlantic States rapidly expanding to handle
nearly half of all hickory lumber. The sapwood of the true hickory group
is white and usually quite wide, except in old, slow-growing trees. The
heartwood is reddish. The wood is exceptionally tough, heavy, hard, and
strong, and shrinks considerably in drying. For some purposes, both
rings per centimeter (or inch) and weight are limiting factors where
strength is important. The major use for high quality hickory is for
tool handles, which require high shock resistance. It is also used for
ladder rungs, athletic goods, agricultural implements, dowels, gymnasium
apparatuses, poles, and furniture. Lower grade hickory is not suitable
for the special uses of high quality hickory because of knottiness or
other growth features and low density. However, the lower grade is
useful for pallets and similar items. Hickory sawdust, chips, and some
solid wood are used to flavor meat by smoking. Honeylocust The wood of
honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) has many desirable qualities, such
as attractive figure and color,
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
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Posts: n/a
Default What Freemasons would like us to believe........

"Jack Nairey" wrote in message
David Simpson wrote in message


The attempted murder of a man trying to expose a Masonic conspiracy by
running him over in a car and getting Masonic cops to refuse to
investigate the incident.

AND.... I'll bet you dollars to doughnuts that this is the _last_ time that
schmuck _ever_ brags about buying a new table saw from Harbor Freight!


Jack Nairey.

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