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#1
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I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I
took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean the blade? |
#2
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There are several commercial products available, but I just use a brush
cleaner unless they are really gummed up with resin. Then I use an oven cleaner on them. Finally, I clean them with soap/water, spray them with WD-40, and hang them in the blade cabinet or back on the saw. harrym "Thomas Mitchell" wrote in message ... I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean the blade? |
#3
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The only problem with oven cleaner is that it will eat the blade if left
on too long. It can be used and it often recommended (and just as often discouraged). A much more conservative (safer) route is to use "Simple Green" that you can get just about anywhere. If you need a little more "tooth" in the cleaner you can also use a nylon bruch to clean the teeth. But if you use pretty warm water along with simple green you'll find that it's easy to clean blades and you won't harm the solder holding the teeth on. Simple green should be more than enough to clean your blades and router bits though. I use silicone protectant often too, but a better alternative (when I have it around) is to use Boeshield T-9. The problem with silicone is that while it's great a preventing rust, it can stain wood and it can interfere with a finish that you're going to put on the wood. (Kind of like how silcone screws with automotive paint it is on the vehicle when you paint it). Boeshield is more like a wax so it doesn't attract dust and is MUCH better for protecting against rust. I use it on everything but it's about $10 a can. Works great though in a dusty environment as it doesn't attract dust like wd-40 or any other silicone lubricant. alan HarryM wrote: There are several commercial products available, but I just use a brush cleaner unless they are really gummed up with resin. Then I use an oven cleaner on them. Finally, I clean them with soap/water, spray them with WD-40, and hang them in the blade cabinet or back on the saw. harrym "Thomas Mitchell" wrote in message ... I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean the blade? |
#4
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In article 1058206591.380632@sj-nntpcache-5,
Alan Kauth wrote: The only problem with oven cleaner is that it will eat the blade if left on too long. It can be used and it often recommended (and just as often discouraged). A much more conservative (safer) route is to use "Simple Green" that you can get just about anywhere. If you need a little more "tooth" in the cleaner you can also use a nylon bruch to clean the teeth. But if you use pretty warm water along with simple green you'll find that it's easy to clean blades and you won't harm the solder holding the teeth on. Simple green should be more than enough to clean your blades and router bits though. Simple Green is great for a lot of clean-up applications. Another wonderful product, *if* you can find it, is "Perfex". it's a powder you dissolve in water. Good for taking kids fingerprints off walls, 'de waxing' floors (before applying a new coat), and cleaning 'burner bibs' on electric stoves, among other things. |
#5
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In article ,
Thomas Mitchell wrote: clean the blade? 1 tablespoon of TSP in 'bout 2 cups of warm water - soak blade for 5-10 mins and hit the resin deposits with a vegatable or dish brush - rinse and dry. Did I say it was cheap? No? Well then, it's cheap - and effective. -- Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html |
#6
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Owen Lowe responds:
clean the blade? 1 tablespoon of TSP in 'bout 2 cups of warm water - soak blade for 5-10 mins and hit the resin deposits with a vegatable or dish brush - rinse and dry. Did I say it was cheap? No? Well then, it's cheap - and effective. I've not tried that one. One thing: all I can find in these green days is TSP substitute. TSP seems to be totally off the market. Any suggestions? Charlie Self Facts are stupid things. Ronald Reagan |
#7
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#8
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On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:36:47 -0400, "Joel Jacobson"
wrote: ..... What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean the blade? For blades 10" and smaller, I use the lids from 5 gallon buckets. I drill a hole in the center of the lid, push in a short 3/8" carraige bolt from the bottom, and holk the blade in with a washer and wing nut. I also use lids to hold the blades while cleaning. I spray them with Simple Green, brush them, if needed, and rinse them off and dry them. I use this: http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladebox.jpg http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladeboxdrwr.jpg It took about 2 hours to make, I found the idea in a book. The "drawers" come out and can sit on the saw during changes, protectid the blades. Barry |
#9
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![]() Looks like a good idea. Do you keep your dado blade in there as well? Is that what's in the larger drawer on the bottom? I use this: http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladebox.jpg http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladeboxdrwr.jpg |
#10
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Thomas Mitchell wrote in message ...
I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean the blade? Has anyone ever tried Castrol Super Clean (wear gloves)? |
#11
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On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:00:23 -0400, Thomas Mitchell
wrote: Nice pics. Looks like a nice storage system for blades. Now I wish I had that many blades. ![]() I don't! G I actually have only three, plus a dado set and a 10" sanding disc. One "main" combo blade, one "old" combo blade for MDF, and one dedicated rip blade. The dado set takes up two drawers. The rest of the drawers are for future growth. Barry |
#12
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#13
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George writes:
Dilute your "real" TSP heavily and throw it on the grass. It's not banned because it's toxic, just the reverse - it's fertilizer. As I recall, the problem came with sewage discharges into waterways, which then had so much algae bloom that the water no longer held oxygen for fish. Charlie Self "If our democracy is to flourish, it must have criticism; if our government is to function it must have dissent." Henry Commager |
#14
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Close, you neglected one stage. The algae has to die, then become a
consumer of oxygen. If we could have pumped the gray water from our washing machines to the lawn, as I am doing as I write this between loads of wash and sanding, we'd have conserved water and fertilizer, and made bright green lawns. Did'ja ever go write an obscenity in fertilizer on a lawn? Feeling old as I remember that. Also feeling old as I remember that I used to limit out on BIG tasty perch on Lake Erie in the days before algal blooms.... "Charlie Self" wrote in message ... George writes: Dilute your "real" TSP heavily and throw it on the grass. It's not banned because it's toxic, just the reverse - it's fertilizer. As I recall, the problem came with sewage discharges into waterways, which then had so much algae bloom that the water no longer held oxygen for fish. |
#15
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cutting lawns? I haven't mowed the back yard in 6 weeks. Doesn't get
enough light to grow that fast. Needs cut though, likely ticks off the neighbors, but alas so little time... Has anyone ever figured out the amount of time, money and energy wasted in producing, and cutting, lawns? It's a total wipe out, with no benefit other than appearance (and a place for dogs to dump), but it takes up much mental and physical (and fiscal) energy for hordes of people. Charlie Self "If our democracy is to flourish, it must have criticism; if our government is to function it must have dissent." Henry Commager |
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